[C320-list] Re Solar Panels

[Scott Westwood]

I agree with Dave.  Like most things, it depends.  
FWIW.  C320 '98  (517).   We just have installed (about 2-3 months ago): (2) 100w Regony Mono rigid solar panels.  Each with its own Blue Sky controller.  Installed the Shunt type Blue Sky Pro -Remote controller (to monitor usage).  Ours are mounted on our dinghy davits just over the Bimini height. Ran wires in the cowl vent next to power plug. We don't have a built in inverter so no help there.  We use small cigarette lighter version if ever need A/C.  

Link to pics of ours if interested: https://c320.org/mediagallery/album.php?aid=358&page=1

I can't/won't try to compare one brand of controller/panels/install/etc... with another.  Like most things they probably both do the same thing only differently.  The depends factor.

Only comments I would add to Dave's is to install every sensor you can.  Especially temperature and voltage sensors.  The more information these smart devices have the better they "can" function. And.... From what I was told???... the Shunt version of monitor (regardless of maker) provides more accurate power usage data.  Not required but I wanted to be able to turn on the fridge, or whatever, and "see" the true power drain.  Personal preference.

We only have the original fridge on board and we just anchored for 4 days (at the Ocracoke music festival) and the panels worked very well. (First time on the hook with new panels.) While the sun was out there was more than enough power to run the fridge constantly and bring batteries up to full before mid day.  It was overcast for 2 of the days and it still managed to put some back in but we shut down the fridge just to see/assess impact.  The next sunny day it was back full by lunch so probably will not do that again unless forecast is bad for many days??.  I was not on board in the middle of the sunny days but, when I  looked, I was getting over 7+ amps about 9am  but sun was not high yet.

We are planning a 2 week trip with several of those days at anchor and I will be monitoring (pun intended) my power closely.

Enjoy the upcoming and agonizing (to me)  decision making process.  Let us all know how it turns out.

Thanks,




Scott Westwood scottwestwood at bellsouth.net H (919)-362-8538    C (919)-618-7185
 

    On Tuesday, June 11, 2019, 02:09:50 AM EDT, Utility Email <kswanson123 at comcast.net> wrote:  
 
 Tom,

Last summer I installed a 125W Solbian Solar panel on the Bimini of our Mark II with Fastex fasteners so it can be easily mounted and removed when the Bimini is deployed.  The stainless steel Fastex fasteners are very durable as they are typically used with convertible tops.  We don’t have or use an inverter aside from a small 12 automotive plug type of one from time to time. 

We have a loaded 2007 C320 MK II model (similar to yours) with refrigeration in the ice box as well as the front loading WAECO refrigerator.  I installed a Genesun MPPT solar controller directly wired to the battery (fused of course) through our Xantrex Link Pro battery monitor so we can see the amps generated.  It works great.  I also installed the solar wiring with a Hella 12 volt plug in the stern near the shore power inlet so the panel can be removed and stowed easily under the after berth.  We connected everything with loomed wiring and A4 connectors.  When deployed or stowed, you don’t even know the 125 W panel is there.  

The best part is that now instead of having to charge the batteries with shore power or morning every three days, we can go for a week without needing to charge if we are judicious about the refrigeration that we use.  I also upgraded all of our lighting, and we won’t use the icebox refrigerator (but still use the front opening refrigerator) while at anchor to reduce electrical demands.  We love the solar panel and the electrical independence and freedom it provides.  

Check out our install photos on our C320IA website.  

https://c320.org/mediagallery/album.php?page=1&aid=293

Have fun with your install.  I used a lot of advice from the Compass Marine website.  

Dave Swanson
S/V Emily Ann
2007 C320 MK II, No. 1107
Mukilteo, WA

Dave


David B. Swanson, P.E., S.E.
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> On Jun 10, 2019, at 6:24 PM, Tom Grass <tgrass462 at gmail.com> wrote:
> 
> Need advice on solar panels and regulators.  We are thinking of installing
> some panels on Bucket List.  How many watts did you install?  Did the
> install integrate well with your inverter?  Where did you mount the
> panels?  Was the wiring a problem?  Any advise is appreciated.  Tom Grass
> SV Bucket List. 2008 Catalina 320 MK II. #1135.
> 
> On Sun, Jun 9, 2019, 11:51 AM Jack Brennan <jackbrennan at bellsouth.net>
> wrote:
> 
>> Well, I’m finally done with replacing the cabin sole with Lonseal teak and
>> holly laminate. It was a success, but I have to say it was the most
>> meticulous, unforgiving project I’ve taken on in three major refits of
>> sailboats.
>> 
>> Some notes for anyone contemplating this project:
>> 
>> • If I had to do it over again, I would choose the solid teak pattern.
>> Lining up the holly stripes is extremely difficult and time consuming.
>> Remember, there are five hatch covers for the bilge and six separate floor
>> sections in the cabin …
>> • Thickened West System epoxy worked great. I mixed four separate batches
>> to keep it from hardening. First the V berth floor, then the forward cabin
>> area, followed by the large port and starboard sections in the rest of the
>> cabin.
>> • An expensive, really sharp utility knife is your friend. With a little
>> practice, you can cut extremely accurate lines in the laminate if you take
>> your time.
>> • Even if you plan on cutting a new underlayment for the laminate, be
>> careful to protect the old stuff when you remove it. Making your own
>> pattern without them would be very time consuming.
>> • On my 320, small screws through the laminate hold the floor underlayment
>> to the subfloor. I chose to continue doing this, and it made it much easier
>> to cut and glue down the laminate. I would take up a couple of screws, lay
>> down the glue and rescrew the laminate down to the subfloor.
>> • Lonseal comes in six-foot-wide sections. Ten feet, costing about $400,
>> is plenty.
>> • Lastly, if you have a fat bank account, this really is a project left to
>> a floor professional. I did it myself to stretch my boat budget and because
>> I’m retired with plenty of time. My guess is that it would cost 3K or so,
>> based on $800 in material and $2,200 in labor.
>> 
>> Jack Brennan
>> Sonas, 1998 Catalina 320, no. 528
>> Tierra Verde, Fl. Dolphin Cruising Club of Tampa Bay.
>> 
>> 
>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>> 
>>