[C320-list] C320-list Digest, Vol 3474, Issue 1
Jim Graham
jameswgraham at gmail.com
Wed Jun 12 10:48:35 PDT 2019
I purchased a 100 watt panel and controller, but I'm perplexed about how to
properly connect it to my two batteries (starter and house). I want to add
fuses but not sure where best to connect those and also the positive and
negative to the batteries themselves. From my questions you might
correctly guess I don't know much about electronics.
On Wed, Jun 12, 2019 at 9:44 AM <c320-list-request at lists.catalina320.com>
wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Re Solar Panels (Scott Thompson)
> 2. Re: Re Solar Panels (Scott Thompson)
> 3. Re: Re Solar Panels (sail-ability at sympatico.ca)
> 4. Re: Re Solar Panels (Dave Chase)
> 5. Re: Re Solar Panels (Graeme Clark)
> 6. Re: Re Solar Panels (Ted Harrison)
> 7. Re: Re Solar Panels (Utility Email)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2019 16:15:02 -0400
> From: Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com>
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Re Solar Panels
> Message-ID: <7a418862-17a8-95a1-3994-c773eedd48ba at thompson87.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> I went through this earlier this year as part of a canvas replacement
> project where we purchased a new bimini, dodger, etc. I purchased three
> Solbian SP52Q panels (see
> https://www.solbian.eu/en/sp-series/24-sp-52-q.html). These were
> installed on the aft part of the bimini, with one panel on each of the
> three sections divided by two zippered cut-out slots for the backstays.
> The bimini was built by Yacht Canvas (formerly Christopher Ford Yacht
> Canvas) of Annapolis, and they added zipper attachments for the panels
> as well as adding various openings and channels to hide the wiring. They
> also attached the panels to some kind of air-core board that allows
> limited air flow below the panel to help keep them cool. Two relatively
> heavy-duty weather and UV protected cables spiral down the starboard
> backstay and then go into the clamshell vent on the transom before
> joining internal wiring below the starboard helm seat. Wiring from their
> forward to the battery compartment is via standard duplex boat DC wiring
> cable. All connections used MC4 connectors that came with the panels. I
> had to purchase a special crimping tool to install these, but they
> produce weather tight connections.
>
> After some research I decided to wire the three panels in series. This
> combines them into a single 28 volt array adding up to 156 watts peak
> power. I wired them to a Victron MPPT 75/15 solar controller that I had
> installed earlier anticipating this upgrade. I also installed a Victron
> solar controller monitor so that I can see what the MPPT is doing. (The
> newer controllers have bluetooth built in so that you can use your phone
> to monitor, but that wasn't available when I bought mine.) I already had
> a Victron battery monitor and the two monitors were installed next to
> the starboard-side battery switch.
>
> Note that the SP52Q panels have an output voltage of 9.1 volts so I'm
> not sure they would be appropriate for use in parallel with a 12 volt
> system -- the controller would need to step up the voltage rather than
> step it down in that scenario.
>
> I was very pleased to see during our first cruise with the new setup
> that we often were getting 120 watts out of the array. This was more
> than enough to keep the batteries charged while sailing on a sunny day,
> even using the autopilot for steering, running the fridge, and using
> instruments including a chartplotter. We also spent three nights at
> anchor in one location and the system was able to restore the batteries
> to full charge each day. We are pretty conservative about power use at
> anchor. The biggest draws are the fridge and the stereo. LED lights draw
> next to nothing. We do not have an inverter, and actually got rid of our
> microwave.
>
> Wiring in series means you have a higher voltage but lower current in
> the wiring back to the controller. This means that the MPPT controller
> can more efficiently use the power when the panel output is below
> optimum, and it also means you can get away with somewhat lesser wiring
> sizes and still avoid significant voltage drop on the relatively long
> wiring run back to the batteries. With series wiring the current back to
> the MPPT controller is limited to the 6 amp output of any one panel.
> However the MPPT controller steps down the voltage so that many more
> amps are available to the batteries when the sun is shining well. The
> drawback of series wiring is that if one of the panels is shaded all the
> way across then the entire array shuts down. But since Surprise lives on
> a mooring, and since we usually anchor out while cruising, the only time
> that's going to be a problem is if the mast casts a shadow across the
> back of the boat. Mostly it's not a problem for us. Some websites
> recommend parallel wiring and a separate controller for each panel. That
> would mean three times the wiring.
>
> Scott Thompson
>
> Surprise (#653, 1999)
>
>
>
> On 6/11/2019 12:11 PM, Jeff Hare wrote:
> > I'll, of course, defer to others who have already installed panels.
> >
> > But something quite important to consider and maybe not at all obvious,
> is how the actual panel itself was designed to be used. Specifically, you
> could take 4 differently designed 100w panels and see vastly different
> outputs from them depending on how the cells are wired and whether there
> are electronics built in to handle the effect of partial shading.
> >
> > For purposes of illustration: you might have a panel that is designed
> for use in full sun. It'll put out rated watts with optimal sun but shade
> 1/4 of the panel, or even a couple of cells and you might find that panel
> produces almost nothing. Shade a different 1/4 of the panel and you might
> get half power out. It's like having a bunch of battery cells wired in
> series or series/parallel. If you have a dead cell (shaded), it affect the
> rest of the cells in that string. So, really good solar panels can do
> things to mitigate any cells that get shaded and still use the others,
> while less sophisticated panels might not be able to do that at all or are
> better for applications where it is never partially shaded.
> >
> > So, consider the design of the panel and how it deals with patches of
> shadow before you buy the panel.
> https://www.wholesalesolar.com/blog/effect-shade-solar-panels/
> >
> > I'm not an expert but did quite a bit of research at one point on solar.
> >
> > Cheers!
> > -Jeff Hare
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: C320-list <c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com> On Behalf Of
> Tom Grass
> > Sent: Monday, June 10, 2019 9:24 PM
> > To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> > Subject: [C320-list] Re Solar Panels
> >
> > Need advice on solar panels and regulators. We are thinking of
> installing some panels on Bucket List. How many watts did you install?
> Did the install integrate well with your inverter? Where did you mount the
> > panels? Was the wiring a problem? Any advise is appreciated. Tom
> Grass
> > SV Bucket List. 2008 Catalina 320 MK II. #1135.
> >
> > On Sun, Jun 9, 2019, 11:51 AM Jack Brennan <jackbrennan at bellsouth.net>
> > wrote:
> >
> >> Well, I?m finally done with replacing the cabin sole with Lonseal teak
> >> and holly laminate. It was a success, but I have to say it was the
> >> most meticulous, unforgiving project I?ve taken on in three major
> >> refits of sailboats.
> >>
> >> Some notes for anyone contemplating this project:
> >>
> >> ? If I had to do it over again, I would choose the solid teak pattern.
> >> Lining up the holly stripes is extremely difficult and time consuming.
> >> Remember, there are five hatch covers for the bilge and six separate
> >> floor sections in the cabin ? ? Thickened West System epoxy worked
> >> great. I mixed four separate batches to keep it from hardening. First
> >> the V berth floor, then the forward cabin area, followed by the large
> >> port and starboard sections in the rest of the cabin.
> >> ? An expensive, really sharp utility knife is your friend. With a
> >> little practice, you can cut extremely accurate lines in the laminate
> >> if you take your time.
> >> ? Even if you plan on cutting a new underlayment for the laminate, be
> >> careful to protect the old stuff when you remove it. Making your own
> >> pattern without them would be very time consuming.
> >> ? On my 320, small screws through the laminate hold the floor
> >> underlayment to the subfloor. I chose to continue doing this, and it
> >> made it much easier to cut and glue down the laminate. I would take up
> >> a couple of screws, lay down the glue and rescrew the laminate down to
> the subfloor.
> >> ? Lonseal comes in six-foot-wide sections. Ten feet, costing about
> >> $400, is plenty.
> >> ? Lastly, if you have a fat bank account, this really is a project
> >> left to a floor professional. I did it myself to stretch my boat
> >> budget and because I?m retired with plenty of time. My guess is that
> >> it would cost 3K or so, based on $800 in material and $2,200 in labor.
> >>
> >> Jack Brennan
> >> Sonas, 1998 Catalina 320, no. 528
> >> Tierra Verde, Fl. Dolphin Cruising Club of Tampa Bay.
> >>
> >>
> >> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> >>
> >>
> --
> Scott Thompson
> Surprise, #653
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 11 Jun 2019 18:25:00 -0400
> From: Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com>
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Re Solar Panels
> Message-ID: <30847ba9-1f3b-aaa2-7a7a-1114cfecc6a8 at thompson87.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> The problem with that location is that it is under the boom, so it
> likely is shaded when the sun is most directly overhead. Even a small
> amount of shadowing can reduce output significantly, depending on the
> shape and position of the shadow and how the individual cells are wired.
> For example, I've noticed that the shadow of a nearby mast can cut
> output to zero even though it covers only a small amount of my solar
> array. This is why I went with a location on the bimini aft of the boom,
> and am seeing significantly better performance than you report.
>
> BTW, I most appreciate our bimini when it is raining! It might be just
> the thing for Britain.
>
> Scott
>
>
> On 6/11/2019 6:55 AM, Graeme Clark wrote:
> > Tom
> >
> > Obviously the performance of a solar panel will depend upon how much
> light falls on it! That in turn will depend on where you site it (in other
> words whether it gets shaded and if it is square-on to the sun) and the
> weather conditions where you keep the boat!
> >
> > However it might be helpful for you to know that having sited a 100w
> panel on the sliding hatch cover forward of the mainsheet traveller (which
> was a perfect fit) and using an MPPT controller, the very best we get from
> the panel when it is in full sun and unshaded is about 4amps at about 13v
> (in other words 52W or 52% of the ?rated? output). I think you would need
> very bright light that was absolutely square-on to the panel to better that.
> >
> > Our refrigerator takes about 6 amps when it is running but of course it
> cycles on and off so I think probably only averages 3 or 4 amps depending
> how hot the climate and how often you open the door!
> >
> > The weather here in Britain is such that we don't really need a bimini,
> so my choice of siting was based around the options available without the
> cost of building a stainless steel support over the cockpit just for the
> panel(s)
> >
> > The real benefit - in my view - is that it?s ?always working?, even when
> the light is poor. I know that if we have stayed aboard overnight and had
> the lights on and other electrical loads, by the time we are up and moving
> about the next morning (we aren't early risers generally) the panel has
> already put a whole lot of power back into the battery.
> >
> > Although the 100w panel isn't enough for the boat to be entirely self
> sustaining it really takes the edge off worrying about power consumption.
> Yes, you can still flatten your batteries if you don't think about what
> you're doing but you can go much much longer between needing to motor or
> hook up
> >
> > Hope that helps
> >
> > Graeme
> > ?Jaskar?, 366, 1996. UK
> >
> >
> >
> >> On 11 Jun 2019, at 07:09, Utility Email <kswanson123 at comcast.net>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> Tom,
> >>
> >> Last summer I installed a 125W Solbian Solar panel on the Bimini of our
> Mark II with Fastex fasteners so it can be easily mounted and removed when
> the Bimini is deployed. The stainless steel Fastex fasteners are very
> durable as they are typically used with convertible tops. We don?t have or
> use an inverter aside from a small 12 automotive plug type of one from time
> to time.
> >>
> >> We have a loaded 2007 C320 MK II model (similar to yours) with
> refrigeration in the ice box as well as the front loading WAECO
> refrigerator. I installed a Genesun MPPT solar controller directly wired
> to the battery (fused of course) through our Xantrex Link Pro battery
> monitor so we can see the amps generated. It works great. I also
> installed the solar wiring with a Hella 12 volt plug in the stern near the
> shore power inlet so the panel can be removed and stowed easily under the
> after berth. We connected everything with loomed wiring and A4
> connectors. When deployed or stowed, you don?t even know the 125 W panel
> is there.
> >>
> >> The best part is that now instead of having to charge the batteries
> with shore power or morning every three days, we can go for a week without
> needing to charge if we are judicious about the refrigeration that we use.
> I also upgraded all of our lighting, and we won?t use the icebox
> refrigerator (but still use the front opening refrigerator) while at anchor
> to reduce electrical demands. We love the solar panel and the electrical
> independence and freedom it provides.
> >>
> >> Check out our install photos on our C320IA website.
> >>
> >> https://c320.org/mediagallery/album.php?page=1&aid=293
> >>
> >> Have fun with your install. I used a lot of advice from the Compass
> Marine website.
> >>
> >> Dave Swanson
> >> S/V Emily Ann
> >> 2007 C320 MK II, No. 1107
> >> Mukilteo, WA
> >>
> >> Dave
> >>
> >>
> >> David B. Swanson, P.E., S.E.
> >> Principal, LEED AP, F. SEI
> >> Executive Vice President
> >>
> >> Reid Middleton, Inc.
> >> Engineers | Planners | Surveyors
> >>
> >> Mobile: (425) 508-7971
> >>
> >> California Office
> >> 13220 Evening Creek Drive, Suite 115
> >> San Diego, CA 92128-4103
> >> Office: (858) 668-0707 | Fax: (858) 513-2296
> >>
> >> Washington Office
> >> 728-134th Street SW, Suite 200
> >> Everett, WA 98204
> >> Office: (425) 741-3800 | Fax: (425) 741-3900
> >>
> >> www.reidmiddleton.com
> >>
> >> Alaska | California | Hawaii | Washington
> >>
> >>
> >>> On Jun 10, 2019, at 6:24 PM, Tom Grass <tgrass462 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Need advice on solar panels and regulators. We are thinking of
> installing
> >>> some panels on Bucket List. How many watts did you install? Did the
> >>> install integrate well with your inverter? Where did you mount the
> >>> panels? Was the wiring a problem? Any advise is appreciated. Tom
> Grass
> >>> SV Bucket List. 2008 Catalina 320 MK II. #1135.
> >>>
> >>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2019, 11:51 AM Jack Brennan <jackbrennan at bellsouth.net>
> >>> wrote:
> >>>
> >>>> Well, I?m finally done with replacing the cabin sole with Lonseal
> teak and
> >>>> holly laminate. It was a success, but I have to say it was the most
> >>>> meticulous, unforgiving project I?ve taken on in three major refits of
> >>>> sailboats.
> >>>>
> >>>> Some notes for anyone contemplating this project:
> >>>>
> >>>> ? If I had to do it over again, I would choose the solid teak pattern.
> >>>> Lining up the holly stripes is extremely difficult and time consuming.
> >>>> Remember, there are five hatch covers for the bilge and six separate
> floor
> >>>> sections in the cabin ?
> >>>> ? Thickened West System epoxy worked great. I mixed four separate
> batches
> >>>> to keep it from hardening. First the V berth floor, then the forward
> cabin
> >>>> area, followed by the large port and starboard sections in the rest
> of the
> >>>> cabin.
> >>>> ? An expensive, really sharp utility knife is your friend. With a
> little
> >>>> practice, you can cut extremely accurate lines in the laminate if you
> take
> >>>> your time.
> >>>> ? Even if you plan on cutting a new underlayment for the laminate, be
> >>>> careful to protect the old stuff when you remove it. Making your own
> >>>> pattern without them would be very time consuming.
> >>>> ? On my 320, small screws through the laminate hold the floor
> underlayment
> >>>> to the subfloor. I chose to continue doing this, and it made it much
> easier
> >>>> to cut and glue down the laminate. I would take up a couple of
> screws, lay
> >>>> down the glue and rescrew the laminate down to the subfloor.
> >>>> ? Lonseal comes in six-foot-wide sections. Ten feet, costing about
> $400,
> >>>> is plenty.
> >>>> ? Lastly, if you have a fat bank account, this really is a project
> left to
> >>>> a floor professional. I did it myself to stretch my boat budget and
> because
> >>>> I?m retired with plenty of time. My guess is that it would cost 3K or
> so,
> >>>> based on $800 in material and $2,200 in labor.
> >>>>
> >>>> Jack Brennan
> >>>> Sonas, 1998 Catalina 320, no. 528
> >>>> Tierra Verde, Fl. Dolphin Cruising Club of Tampa Bay.
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> >>>>
> >>>>
> --
> Scott Thompson
> Surprise, #653
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2019 07:06:49 -0400
> From: sail-ability at sympatico.ca
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Re Solar Panels
> Message-ID: <5A5F6836-8BED-44E6-8CA1-FD0608192B23 at sympatico.ca>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> I have a 180 watt Shuco panel installed on the dinghy davits. Hooked up to
> a Blue Sky controller. Largest consumer on our boat is the fridge. System
> keeps the batteries hard up on sunny days. I think a 250 watt panel wud
> work well even on cloudy days.
> JohnM
> 1999#574
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> > On Jun 11, 2019, at 6:25 PM, Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > The problem with that location is that it is under the boom, so it
> likely is shaded when the sun is most directly overhead. Even a small
> amount of shadowing can reduce output significantly, depending on the shape
> and position of the shadow and how the individual cells are wired. For
> example, I've noticed that the shadow of a nearby mast can cut output to
> zero even though it covers only a small amount of my solar array. This is
> why I went with a location on the bimini aft of the boom, and am seeing
> significantly better performance than you report.
> >
> > BTW, I most appreciate our bimini when it is raining! It might be just
> the thing for Britain.
> >
> > Scott
> >
> >
> >> On 6/11/2019 6:55 AM, Graeme Clark wrote:
> >> Tom
> >>
> >> Obviously the performance of a solar panel will depend upon how much
> light falls on it! That in turn will depend on where you site it (in other
> words whether it gets shaded and if it is square-on to the sun) and the
> weather conditions where you keep the boat!
> >>
> >> However it might be helpful for you to know that having sited a 100w
> panel on the sliding hatch cover forward of the mainsheet traveller (which
> was a perfect fit) and using an MPPT controller, the very best we get from
> the panel when it is in full sun and unshaded is about 4amps at about 13v
> (in other words 52W or 52% of the ?rated? output). I think you would need
> very bright light that was absolutely square-on to the panel to better that.
> >>
> >> Our refrigerator takes about 6 amps when it is running but of course it
> cycles on and off so I think probably only averages 3 or 4 amps depending
> how hot the climate and how often you open the door!
> >>
> >> The weather here in Britain is such that we don't really need a bimini,
> so my choice of siting was based around the options available without the
> cost of building a stainless steel support over the cockpit just for the
> panel(s)
> >>
> >> The real benefit - in my view - is that it?s ?always working?, even
> when the light is poor. I know that if we have stayed aboard overnight and
> had the lights on and other electrical loads, by the time we are up and
> moving about the next morning (we aren't early risers generally) the panel
> has already put a whole lot of power back into the battery.
> >>
> >> Although the 100w panel isn't enough for the boat to be entirely self
> sustaining it really takes the edge off worrying about power consumption.
> Yes, you can still flatten your batteries if you don't think about what
> you're doing but you can go much much longer between needing to motor or
> hook up
> >>
> >> Hope that helps
> >>
> >> Graeme
> >> ?Jaskar?, 366, 1996. UK
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> On 11 Jun 2019, at 07:09, Utility Email <kswanson123 at comcast.net>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Tom,
> >>>
> >>> Last summer I installed a 125W Solbian Solar panel on the Bimini of
> our Mark II with Fastex fasteners so it can be easily mounted and removed
> when the Bimini is deployed. The stainless steel Fastex fasteners are very
> durable as they are typically used with convertible tops. We don?t have or
> use an inverter aside from a small 12 automotive plug type of one from time
> to time.
> >>>
> >>> We have a loaded 2007 C320 MK II model (similar to yours) with
> refrigeration in the ice box as well as the front loading WAECO
> refrigerator. I installed a Genesun MPPT solar controller directly wired
> to the battery (fused of course) through our Xantrex Link Pro battery
> monitor so we can see the amps generated. It works great. I also
> installed the solar wiring with a Hella 12 volt plug in the stern near the
> shore power inlet so the panel can be removed and stowed easily under the
> after berth. We connected everything with loomed wiring and A4
> connectors. When deployed or stowed, you don?t even know the 125 W panel
> is there.
> >>>
> >>> The best part is that now instead of having to charge the batteries
> with shore power or morning every three days, we can go for a week without
> needing to charge if we are judicious about the refrigeration that we use.
> I also upgraded all of our lighting, and we won?t use the icebox
> refrigerator (but still use the front opening refrigerator) while at anchor
> to reduce electrical demands. We love the solar panel and the electrical
> independence and freedom it provides.
> >>>
> >>> Check out our install photos on our C320IA website.
> >>>
> >>> https://c320.org/mediagallery/album.php?page=1&aid=293
> >>>
> >>> Have fun with your install. I used a lot of advice from the Compass
> Marine website.
> >>>
> >>> Dave Swanson
> >>> S/V Emily Ann
> >>> 2007 C320 MK II, No. 1107
> >>> Mukilteo, WA
> >>>
> >>> Dave
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> David B. Swanson, P.E., S.E.
> >>> Principal, LEED AP, F. SEI
> >>> Executive Vice President
> >>>
> >>> Reid Middleton, Inc.
> >>> Engineers | Planners | Surveyors
> >>>
> >>> Mobile: (425) 508-7971
> >>>
> >>> California Office
> >>> 13220 Evening Creek Drive, Suite 115
> >>> San Diego, CA 92128-4103
> >>> Office: (858) 668-0707 | Fax: (858) 513-2296
> >>>
> >>> Washington Office
> >>> 728-134th Street SW, Suite 200
> >>> Everett, WA 98204
> >>> Office: (425) 741-3800 | Fax: (425) 741-3900
> >>>
> >>> www.reidmiddleton.com
> >>>
> >>> Alaska | California | Hawaii | Washington
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> On Jun 10, 2019, at 6:24 PM, Tom Grass <tgrass462 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Need advice on solar panels and regulators. We are thinking of
> installing
> >>>> some panels on Bucket List. How many watts did you install? Did the
> >>>> install integrate well with your inverter? Where did you mount the
> >>>> panels? Was the wiring a problem? Any advise is appreciated. Tom
> Grass
> >>>> SV Bucket List. 2008 Catalina 320 MK II. #1135.
> >>>>
> >>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2019, 11:51 AM Jack Brennan <jackbrennan at bellsouth.net
> >
> >>>> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Well, I?m finally done with replacing the cabin sole with Lonseal
> teak and
> >>>>> holly laminate. It was a success, but I have to say it was the most
> >>>>> meticulous, unforgiving project I?ve taken on in three major refits
> of
> >>>>> sailboats.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Some notes for anyone contemplating this project:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> ? If I had to do it over again, I would choose the solid teak
> pattern.
> >>>>> Lining up the holly stripes is extremely difficult and time
> consuming.
> >>>>> Remember, there are five hatch covers for the bilge and six separate
> floor
> >>>>> sections in the cabin ?
> >>>>> ? Thickened West System epoxy worked great. I mixed four separate
> batches
> >>>>> to keep it from hardening. First the V berth floor, then the forward
> cabin
> >>>>> area, followed by the large port and starboard sections in the rest
> of the
> >>>>> cabin.
> >>>>> ? An expensive, really sharp utility knife is your friend. With a
> little
> >>>>> practice, you can cut extremely accurate lines in the laminate if
> you take
> >>>>> your time.
> >>>>> ? Even if you plan on cutting a new underlayment for the laminate, be
> >>>>> careful to protect the old stuff when you remove it. Making your own
> >>>>> pattern without them would be very time consuming.
> >>>>> ? On my 320, small screws through the laminate hold the floor
> underlayment
> >>>>> to the subfloor. I chose to continue doing this, and it made it much
> easier
> >>>>> to cut and glue down the laminate. I would take up a couple of
> screws, lay
> >>>>> down the glue and rescrew the laminate down to the subfloor.
> >>>>> ? Lonseal comes in six-foot-wide sections. Ten feet, costing about
> $400,
> >>>>> is plenty.
> >>>>> ? Lastly, if you have a fat bank account, this really is a project
> left to
> >>>>> a floor professional. I did it myself to stretch my boat budget and
> because
> >>>>> I?m retired with plenty of time. My guess is that it would cost 3K
> or so,
> >>>>> based on $800 in material and $2,200 in labor.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Jack Brennan
> >>>>> Sonas, 1998 Catalina 320, no. 528
> >>>>> Tierra Verde, Fl. Dolphin Cruising Club of Tampa Bay.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> > --
> > Scott Thompson
> > Surprise, #653
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2019 07:55:51 -0400
> From: Dave Chase <londoc at blackbury.com>
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Re Solar Panels
> Message-ID: <2e6868b2-1615-c815-a130-93616315a168 at blackbury.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8; format=flowed
>
> Wasn't able to permanent mount solar panels just yet, but FWIW I got one
> of these units to lash to the deck/bimini out of the way and in the best
> sun. It folds up into a stowable unit. It uses higher efficiency cells
> and I replaced the PWM controller with a Victron Blue Solar MPPT
> controller. Have gotten 97W from it just sitting on the deck. I can't
> attest to durability just yet though.
>
>
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074ZR3RNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
>
> Dave
> Indigo
> 1994 C320? #97
>
>
> On 6/12/19 7:06 AM, sail-ability at sympatico.ca wrote:
> > I have a 180 watt Shuco panel installed on the dinghy davits. Hooked up
> to a Blue Sky controller. Largest consumer on our boat is the fridge.
> System keeps the batteries hard up on sunny days. I think a 250 watt panel
> wud work well even on cloudy days.
> > JohnM
> > 1999#574
> >
> > Sent from my iPhone
> >
> >> On Jun 11, 2019, at 6:25 PM, Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com>
> wrote:
> >>
> >> The problem with that location is that it is under the boom, so it
> likely is shaded when the sun is most directly overhead. Even a small
> amount of shadowing can reduce output significantly, depending on the shape
> and position of the shadow and how the individual cells are wired. For
> example, I've noticed that the shadow of a nearby mast can cut output to
> zero even though it covers only a small amount of my solar array. This is
> why I went with a location on the bimini aft of the boom, and am seeing
> significantly better performance than you report.
> >>
> >> BTW, I most appreciate our bimini when it is raining! It might be just
> the thing for Britain.
> >>
> >> Scott
> >>
> >>
> >>> On 6/11/2019 6:55 AM, Graeme Clark wrote:
> >>> Tom
> >>>
> >>> Obviously the performance of a solar panel will depend upon how much
> light falls on it! That in turn will depend on where you site it (in other
> words whether it gets shaded and if it is square-on to the sun) and the
> weather conditions where you keep the boat!
> >>>
> >>> However it might be helpful for you to know that having sited a 100w
> panel on the sliding hatch cover forward of the mainsheet traveller (which
> was a perfect fit) and using an MPPT controller, the very best we get from
> the panel when it is in full sun and unshaded is about 4amps at about 13v
> (in other words 52W or 52% of the ?rated? output). I think you would need
> very bright light that was absolutely square-on to the panel to better that.
> >>>
> >>> Our refrigerator takes about 6 amps when it is running but of course
> it cycles on and off so I think probably only averages 3 or 4 amps
> depending how hot the climate and how often you open the door!
> >>>
> >>> The weather here in Britain is such that we don't really need a
> bimini, so my choice of siting was based around the options available
> without the cost of building a stainless steel support over the cockpit
> just for the panel(s)
> >>>
> >>> The real benefit - in my view - is that it?s ?always working?, even
> when the light is poor. I know that if we have stayed aboard overnight and
> had the lights on and other electrical loads, by the time we are up and
> moving about the next morning (we aren't early risers generally) the panel
> has already put a whole lot of power back into the battery.
> >>>
> >>> Although the 100w panel isn't enough for the boat to be entirely self
> sustaining it really takes the edge off worrying about power consumption.
> Yes, you can still flatten your batteries if you don't think about what
> you're doing but you can go much much longer between needing to motor or
> hook up
> >>>
> >>> Hope that helps
> >>>
> >>> Graeme
> >>> ?Jaskar?, 366, 1996. UK
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> On 11 Jun 2019, at 07:09, Utility Email <kswanson123 at comcast.net>
> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Tom,
> >>>>
> >>>> Last summer I installed a 125W Solbian Solar panel on the Bimini of
> our Mark II with Fastex fasteners so it can be easily mounted and removed
> when the Bimini is deployed. The stainless steel Fastex fasteners are very
> durable as they are typically used with convertible tops. We don?t have or
> use an inverter aside from a small 12 automotive plug type of one from time
> to time.
> >>>>
> >>>> We have a loaded 2007 C320 MK II model (similar to yours) with
> refrigeration in the ice box as well as the front loading WAECO
> refrigerator. I installed a Genesun MPPT solar controller directly wired
> to the battery (fused of course) through our Xantrex Link Pro battery
> monitor so we can see the amps generated. It works great. I also
> installed the solar wiring with a Hella 12 volt plug in the stern near the
> shore power inlet so the panel can be removed and stowed easily under the
> after berth. We connected everything with loomed wiring and A4
> connectors. When deployed or stowed, you don?t even know the 125 W panel
> is there.
> >>>>
> >>>> The best part is that now instead of having to charge the batteries
> with shore power or morning every three days, we can go for a week without
> needing to charge if we are judicious about the refrigeration that we use.
> I also upgraded all of our lighting, and we won?t use the icebox
> refrigerator (but still use the front opening refrigerator) while at anchor
> to reduce electrical demands. We love the solar panel and the electrical
> independence and freedom it provides.
> >>>>
> >>>> Check out our install photos on our C320IA website.
> >>>>
> >>>> https://c320.org/mediagallery/album.php?page=1&aid=293
> >>>>
> >>>> Have fun with your install. I used a lot of advice from the Compass
> Marine website.
> >>>>
> >>>> Dave Swanson
> >>>> S/V Emily Ann
> >>>> 2007 C320 MK II, No. 1107
> >>>> Mukilteo, WA
> >>>>
> >>>> Dave
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> David B. Swanson, P.E., S.E.
> >>>> Principal, LEED AP, F. SEI
> >>>> Executive Vice President
> >>>>
> >>>> Reid Middleton, Inc.
> >>>> Engineers | Planners | Surveyors
> >>>>
> >>>> Mobile: (425) 508-7971
> >>>>
> >>>> California Office
> >>>> 13220 Evening Creek Drive, Suite 115
> >>>> San Diego, CA 92128-4103
> >>>> Office: (858) 668-0707 | Fax: (858) 513-2296
> >>>>
> >>>> Washington Office
> >>>> 728-134th Street SW, Suite 200
> >>>> Everett, WA 98204
> >>>> Office: (425) 741-3800 | Fax: (425) 741-3900
> >>>>
> >>>> www.reidmiddleton.com
> >>>>
> >>>> Alaska | California | Hawaii | Washington
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> On Jun 10, 2019, at 6:24 PM, Tom Grass <tgrass462 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Need advice on solar panels and regulators. We are thinking of
> installing
> >>>>> some panels on Bucket List. How many watts did you install? Did the
> >>>>> install integrate well with your inverter? Where did you mount the
> >>>>> panels? Was the wiring a problem? Any advise is appreciated. Tom
> Grass
> >>>>> SV Bucket List. 2008 Catalina 320 MK II. #1135.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2019, 11:51 AM Jack Brennan <
> jackbrennan at bellsouth.net>
> >>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> Well, I?m finally done with replacing the cabin sole with Lonseal
> teak and
> >>>>>> holly laminate. It was a success, but I have to say it was the most
> >>>>>> meticulous, unforgiving project I?ve taken on in three major refits
> of
> >>>>>> sailboats.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Some notes for anyone contemplating this project:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> ? If I had to do it over again, I would choose the solid teak
> pattern.
> >>>>>> Lining up the holly stripes is extremely difficult and time
> consuming.
> >>>>>> Remember, there are five hatch covers for the bilge and six
> separate floor
> >>>>>> sections in the cabin ?
> >>>>>> ? Thickened West System epoxy worked great. I mixed four separate
> batches
> >>>>>> to keep it from hardening. First the V berth floor, then the
> forward cabin
> >>>>>> area, followed by the large port and starboard sections in the rest
> of the
> >>>>>> cabin.
> >>>>>> ? An expensive, really sharp utility knife is your friend. With a
> little
> >>>>>> practice, you can cut extremely accurate lines in the laminate if
> you take
> >>>>>> your time.
> >>>>>> ? Even if you plan on cutting a new underlayment for the laminate,
> be
> >>>>>> careful to protect the old stuff when you remove it. Making your own
> >>>>>> pattern without them would be very time consuming.
> >>>>>> ? On my 320, small screws through the laminate hold the floor
> underlayment
> >>>>>> to the subfloor. I chose to continue doing this, and it made it
> much easier
> >>>>>> to cut and glue down the laminate. I would take up a couple of
> screws, lay
> >>>>>> down the glue and rescrew the laminate down to the subfloor.
> >>>>>> ? Lonseal comes in six-foot-wide sections. Ten feet, costing about
> $400,
> >>>>>> is plenty.
> >>>>>> ? Lastly, if you have a fat bank account, this really is a project
> left to
> >>>>>> a floor professional. I did it myself to stretch my boat budget and
> because
> >>>>>> I?m retired with plenty of time. My guess is that it would cost 3K
> or so,
> >>>>>> based on $800 in material and $2,200 in labor.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Jack Brennan
> >>>>>> Sonas, 1998 Catalina 320, no. 528
> >>>>>> Tierra Verde, Fl. Dolphin Cruising Club of Tampa Bay.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>
> >> --
> >> Scott Thompson
> >> Surprise, #653
> >>
> >
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2019 14:26:52 +0100
> From: Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk>
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Re Solar Panels
> Message-ID: <5B16F929-C439-4963-B9C1-D1F1A9EBD65B at skyflyer.co.uk>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Scott
>
> Your last comment made me laugh!
>
> Yes you?re right about the potential degradation of boom shading and as
> you say the type of panel has a bearing on this.
>
> I chose a backwired flexible panel so we can safely walk on it (although
> try not to!) and after it arrived I jury rigged it at home to see the
> effects of shading.
>
> I think the biggest issue is whether the individual cells are wired in
> series or parallel. I think mine is wired in ?banks? of several cells in
> series paralleled to the next bank
>
> The outcome was surprisingly little degradation of output. I find that the
> boom is far enough away that it isn?t really deeply shading the panel. A
> cell can still ?see? lots of bright sky even when shaded from the sun
> itself. Maybe not enough to generate much power but enough to stop the cell
> becoming a resistor!
>
> But yes obviously it is better to have an unshaded location. I wasn?t
> ?pushing? the underboom location so much as pointing out what performance
> you could expect if you choose to use it!
>
> Graeme
>
> Sent from mobile: please excuse typos etc.!
>
>
> > On 11 Jun 2019, at 23:25, Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > The problem with that location is that it is under the boom, so it
> likely is shaded when the sun is most directly overhead. Even a small
> amount of shadowing can reduce output significantly, depending on the shape
> and position of the shadow and how the individual cells are wired. For
> example, I've noticed that the shadow of a nearby mast can cut output to
> zero even though it covers only a small amount of my solar array. This is
> why I went with a location on the bimini aft of the boom, and am seeing
> significantly better performance than you report.
> >
> > BTW, I most appreciate our bimini when it is raining! It might be just
> the thing for Britain.
> >
> > Scott
> >
> >
> >> On 6/11/2019 6:55 AM, Graeme Clark wrote:
> >> Tom
> >>
> >> Obviously the performance of a solar panel will depend upon how much
> light falls on it! That in turn will depend on where you site it (in other
> words whether it gets shaded and if it is square-on to the sun) and the
> weather conditions where you keep the boat!
> >>
> >> However it might be helpful for you to know that having sited a 100w
> panel on the sliding hatch cover forward of the mainsheet traveller (which
> was a perfect fit) and using an MPPT controller, the very best we get from
> the panel when it is in full sun and unshaded is about 4amps at about 13v
> (in other words 52W or 52% of the ?rated? output). I think you would need
> very bright light that was absolutely square-on to the panel to better that.
> >>
> >> Our refrigerator takes about 6 amps when it is running but of course it
> cycles on and off so I think probably only averages 3 or 4 amps depending
> how hot the climate and how often you open the door!
> >>
> >> The weather here in Britain is such that we don't really need a bimini,
> so my choice of siting was based around the options available without the
> cost of building a stainless steel support over the cockpit just for the
> panel(s)
> >>
> >> The real benefit - in my view - is that it?s ?always working?, even
> when the light is poor. I know that if we have stayed aboard overnight and
> had the lights on and other electrical loads, by the time we are up and
> moving about the next morning (we aren't early risers generally) the panel
> has already put a whole lot of power back into the battery.
> >>
> >> Although the 100w panel isn't enough for the boat to be entirely self
> sustaining it really takes the edge off worrying about power consumption.
> Yes, you can still flatten your batteries if you don't think about what
> you're doing but you can go much much longer between needing to motor or
> hook up
> >>
> >> Hope that helps
> >>
> >> Graeme
> >> ?Jaskar?, 366, 1996. UK
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >>> On 11 Jun 2019, at 07:09, Utility Email <kswanson123 at comcast.net>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Tom,
> >>>
> >>> Last summer I installed a 125W Solbian Solar panel on the Bimini of
> our Mark II with Fastex fasteners so it can be easily mounted and removed
> when the Bimini is deployed. The stainless steel Fastex fasteners are very
> durable as they are typically used with convertible tops. We don?t have or
> use an inverter aside from a small 12 automotive plug type of one from time
> to time.
> >>>
> >>> We have a loaded 2007 C320 MK II model (similar to yours) with
> refrigeration in the ice box as well as the front loading WAECO
> refrigerator. I installed a Genesun MPPT solar controller directly wired
> to the battery (fused of course) through our Xantrex Link Pro battery
> monitor so we can see the amps generated. It works great. I also
> installed the solar wiring with a Hella 12 volt plug in the stern near the
> shore power inlet so the panel can be removed and stowed easily under the
> after berth. We connected everything with loomed wiring and A4
> connectors. When deployed or stowed, you don?t even know the 125 W panel
> is there.
> >>>
> >>> The best part is that now instead of having to charge the batteries
> with shore power or morning every three days, we can go for a week without
> needing to charge if we are judicious about the refrigeration that we use.
> I also upgraded all of our lighting, and we won?t use the icebox
> refrigerator (but still use the front opening refrigerator) while at anchor
> to reduce electrical demands. We love the solar panel and the electrical
> independence and freedom it provides.
> >>>
> >>> Check out our install photos on our C320IA website.
> >>>
> >>> https://c320.org/mediagallery/album.php?page=1&aid=293
> >>>
> >>> Have fun with your install. I used a lot of advice from the Compass
> Marine website.
> >>>
> >>> Dave Swanson
> >>> S/V Emily Ann
> >>> 2007 C320 MK II, No. 1107
> >>> Mukilteo, WA
> >>>
> >>> Dave
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> David B. Swanson, P.E., S.E.
> >>> Principal, LEED AP, F. SEI
> >>> Executive Vice President
> >>>
> >>> Reid Middleton, Inc.
> >>> Engineers | Planners | Surveyors
> >>>
> >>> Mobile: (425) 508-7971
> >>>
> >>> California Office
> >>> 13220 Evening Creek Drive, Suite 115
> >>> San Diego, CA 92128-4103
> >>> Office: (858) 668-0707 | Fax: (858) 513-2296
> >>>
> >>> Washington Office
> >>> 728-134th Street SW, Suite 200
> >>> Everett, WA 98204
> >>> Office: (425) 741-3800 | Fax: (425) 741-3900
> >>>
> >>> www.reidmiddleton.com
> >>>
> >>> Alaska | California | Hawaii | Washington
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> On Jun 10, 2019, at 6:24 PM, Tom Grass <tgrass462 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Need advice on solar panels and regulators. We are thinking of
> installing
> >>>> some panels on Bucket List. How many watts did you install? Did the
> >>>> install integrate well with your inverter? Where did you mount the
> >>>> panels? Was the wiring a problem? Any advise is appreciated. Tom
> Grass
> >>>> SV Bucket List. 2008 Catalina 320 MK II. #1135.
> >>>>
> >>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2019, 11:51 AM Jack Brennan <jackbrennan at bellsouth.net
> >
> >>>> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>>> Well, I?m finally done with replacing the cabin sole with Lonseal
> teak and
> >>>>> holly laminate. It was a success, but I have to say it was the most
> >>>>> meticulous, unforgiving project I?ve taken on in three major refits
> of
> >>>>> sailboats.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Some notes for anyone contemplating this project:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> ? If I had to do it over again, I would choose the solid teak
> pattern.
> >>>>> Lining up the holly stripes is extremely difficult and time
> consuming.
> >>>>> Remember, there are five hatch covers for the bilge and six separate
> floor
> >>>>> sections in the cabin ?
> >>>>> ? Thickened West System epoxy worked great. I mixed four separate
> batches
> >>>>> to keep it from hardening. First the V berth floor, then the forward
> cabin
> >>>>> area, followed by the large port and starboard sections in the rest
> of the
> >>>>> cabin.
> >>>>> ? An expensive, really sharp utility knife is your friend. With a
> little
> >>>>> practice, you can cut extremely accurate lines in the laminate if
> you take
> >>>>> your time.
> >>>>> ? Even if you plan on cutting a new underlayment for the laminate, be
> >>>>> careful to protect the old stuff when you remove it. Making your own
> >>>>> pattern without them would be very time consuming.
> >>>>> ? On my 320, small screws through the laminate hold the floor
> underlayment
> >>>>> to the subfloor. I chose to continue doing this, and it made it much
> easier
> >>>>> to cut and glue down the laminate. I would take up a couple of
> screws, lay
> >>>>> down the glue and rescrew the laminate down to the subfloor.
> >>>>> ? Lonseal comes in six-foot-wide sections. Ten feet, costing about
> $400,
> >>>>> is plenty.
> >>>>> ? Lastly, if you have a fat bank account, this really is a project
> left to
> >>>>> a floor professional. I did it myself to stretch my boat budget and
> because
> >>>>> I?m retired with plenty of time. My guess is that it would cost 3K
> or so,
> >>>>> based on $800 in material and $2,200 in labor.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Jack Brennan
> >>>>> Sonas, 1998 Catalina 320, no. 528
> >>>>> Tierra Verde, Fl. Dolphin Cruising Club of Tampa Bay.
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> > --
> > Scott Thompson
> > Surprise, #653
> >
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 6
> Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2019 10:00:48 -0400
> From: Ted Harrison <tharrison at innovations-plus.com>
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Re Solar Panels
> Message-ID:
> <60D8E644-8F85-471F-9FBD-CA8085F168F8 at innovations-plus.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Dave, do you know if the unit recognizes 24 v system. I have my two 12v
> batteries in parallel.
>
> Ted Harrison
> Hull 424 1997
>
> > On Jun 12, 2019, at 7:55 AM, Dave Chase <londoc at blackbury.com> wrote:
> >
> > Wasn't able to permanent mount solar panels just yet, but FWIW I got one
> of these units to lash to the deck/bimini out of the way and in the best
> sun. It folds up into a stowable unit. It uses higher efficiency cells and
> I replaced the PWM controller with a Victron Blue Solar MPPT controller.
> Have gotten 97W from it just sitting on the deck. I can't attest to
> durability just yet though.
> >
> >
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074ZR3RNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
> >
> > Dave
> > Indigo
> > 1994 C320 #97
> >
> >
> >> On 6/12/19 7:06 AM, sail-ability at sympatico.ca wrote:
> >> I have a 180 watt Shuco panel installed on the dinghy davits. Hooked up
> to a Blue Sky controller. Largest consumer on our boat is the fridge.
> System keeps the batteries hard up on sunny days. I think a 250 watt panel
> wud work well even on cloudy days.
> >> JohnM
> >> 1999#574
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>> On Jun 11, 2019, at 6:25 PM, Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> The problem with that location is that it is under the boom, so it
> likely is shaded when the sun is most directly overhead. Even a small
> amount of shadowing can reduce output significantly, depending on the shape
> and position of the shadow and how the individual cells are wired. For
> example, I've noticed that the shadow of a nearby mast can cut output to
> zero even though it covers only a small amount of my solar array. This is
> why I went with a location on the bimini aft of the boom, and am seeing
> significantly better performance than you report.
> >>>
> >>> BTW, I most appreciate our bimini when it is raining! It might be just
> the thing for Britain.
> >>>
> >>> Scott
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>> On 6/11/2019 6:55 AM, Graeme Clark wrote:
> >>>> Tom
> >>>>
> >>>> Obviously the performance of a solar panel will depend upon how much
> light falls on it! That in turn will depend on where you site it (in other
> words whether it gets shaded and if it is square-on to the sun) and the
> weather conditions where you keep the boat!
> >>>>
> >>>> However it might be helpful for you to know that having sited a 100w
> panel on the sliding hatch cover forward of the mainsheet traveller (which
> was a perfect fit) and using an MPPT controller, the very best we get from
> the panel when it is in full sun and unshaded is about 4amps at about 13v
> (in other words 52W or 52% of the ?rated? output). I think you would need
> very bright light that was absolutely square-on to the panel to better that.
> >>>>
> >>>> Our refrigerator takes about 6 amps when it is running but of course
> it cycles on and off so I think probably only averages 3 or 4 amps
> depending how hot the climate and how often you open the door!
> >>>>
> >>>> The weather here in Britain is such that we don't really need a
> bimini, so my choice of siting was based around the options available
> without the cost of building a stainless steel support over the cockpit
> just for the panel(s)
> >>>>
> >>>> The real benefit - in my view - is that it?s ?always working?, even
> when the light is poor. I know that if we have stayed aboard overnight and
> had the lights on and other electrical loads, by the time we are up and
> moving about the next morning (we aren't early risers generally) the panel
> has already put a whole lot of power back into the battery.
> >>>>
> >>>> Although the 100w panel isn't enough for the boat to be entirely
> self sustaining it really takes the edge off worrying about power
> consumption. Yes, you can still flatten your batteries if you don't think
> about what you're doing but you can go much much longer between needing to
> motor or hook up
> >>>>
> >>>> Hope that helps
> >>>>
> >>>> Graeme
> >>>> ?Jaskar?, 366, 1996. UK
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>> On 11 Jun 2019, at 07:09, Utility Email <kswanson123 at comcast.net>
> wrote:
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Tom,
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Last summer I installed a 125W Solbian Solar panel on the Bimini of
> our Mark II with Fastex fasteners so it can be easily mounted and removed
> when the Bimini is deployed. The stainless steel Fastex fasteners are very
> durable as they are typically used with convertible tops. We don?t have or
> use an inverter aside from a small 12 automotive plug type of one from time
> to time.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> We have a loaded 2007 C320 MK II model (similar to yours) with
> refrigeration in the ice box as well as the front loading WAECO
> refrigerator. I installed a Genesun MPPT solar controller directly wired
> to the battery (fused of course) through our Xantrex Link Pro battery
> monitor so we can see the amps generated. It works great. I also
> installed the solar wiring with a Hella 12 volt plug in the stern near the
> shore power inlet so the panel can be removed and stowed easily under the
> after berth. We connected everything with loomed wiring and A4
> connectors. When deployed or stowed, you don?t even know the 125 W panel
> is there.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> The best part is that now instead of having to charge the batteries
> with shore power or morning every three days, we can go for a week without
> needing to charge if we are judicious about the refrigeration that we use.
> I also upgraded all of our lighting, and we won?t use the icebox
> refrigerator (but still use the front opening refrigerator) while at anchor
> to reduce electrical demands. We love the solar panel and the electrical
> independence and freedom it provides.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Check out our install photos on our C320IA website.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> https://c320.org/mediagallery/album.php?page=1&aid=293
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Have fun with your install. I used a lot of advice from the Compass
> Marine website.
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Dave Swanson
> >>>>> S/V Emily Ann
> >>>>> 2007 C320 MK II, No. 1107
> >>>>> Mukilteo, WA
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Dave
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>> David B. Swanson, P.E., S.E.
> >>>>> Principal, LEED AP, F. SEI
> >>>>> Executive Vice President
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Reid Middleton, Inc.
> >>>>> Engineers | Planners | Surveyors
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Mobile: (425) 508-7971
> >>>>>
> >>>>> California Office
> >>>>> 13220 Evening Creek Drive, Suite 115
> >>>>> San Diego, CA 92128-4103
> >>>>> Office: (858) 668-0707 | Fax: (858) 513-2296
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Washington Office
> >>>>> 728-134th Street SW, Suite 200
> >>>>> Everett, WA 98204
> >>>>> Office: (425) 741-3800 | Fax: (425) 741-3900
> >>>>>
> >>>>> www.reidmiddleton.com
> >>>>>
> >>>>> Alaska | California | Hawaii | Washington
> >>>>>
> >>>>>
> >>>>>> On Jun 10, 2019, at 6:24 PM, Tom Grass <tgrass462 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> Need advice on solar panels and regulators. We are thinking of
> installing
> >>>>>> some panels on Bucket List. How many watts did you install? Did
> the
> >>>>>> install integrate well with your inverter? Where did you mount the
> >>>>>> panels? Was the wiring a problem? Any advise is appreciated.
> Tom Grass
> >>>>>> SV Bucket List. 2008 Catalina 320 MK II. #1135.
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>> On Sun, Jun 9, 2019, 11:51 AM Jack Brennan <
> jackbrennan at bellsouth.net>
> >>>>>> wrote:
> >>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Well, I?m finally done with replacing the cabin sole with Lonseal
> teak and
> >>>>>>> holly laminate. It was a success, but I have to say it was the most
> >>>>>>> meticulous, unforgiving project I?ve taken on in three major
> refits of
> >>>>>>> sailboats.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Some notes for anyone contemplating this project:
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> ? If I had to do it over again, I would choose the solid teak
> pattern.
> >>>>>>> Lining up the holly stripes is extremely difficult and time
> consuming.
> >>>>>>> Remember, there are five hatch covers for the bilge and six
> separate floor
> >>>>>>> sections in the cabin ?
> >>>>>>> ? Thickened West System epoxy worked great. I mixed four separate
> batches
> >>>>>>> to keep it from hardening. First the V berth floor, then the
> forward cabin
> >>>>>>> area, followed by the large port and starboard sections in the
> rest of the
> >>>>>>> cabin.
> >>>>>>> ? An expensive, really sharp utility knife is your friend. With a
> little
> >>>>>>> practice, you can cut extremely accurate lines in the laminate if
> you take
> >>>>>>> your time.
> >>>>>>> ? Even if you plan on cutting a new underlayment for the laminate,
> be
> >>>>>>> careful to protect the old stuff when you remove it. Making your
> own
> >>>>>>> pattern without them would be very time consuming.
> >>>>>>> ? On my 320, small screws through the laminate hold the floor
> underlayment
> >>>>>>> to the subfloor. I chose to continue doing this, and it made it
> much easier
> >>>>>>> to cut and glue down the laminate. I would take up a couple of
> screws, lay
> >>>>>>> down the glue and rescrew the laminate down to the subfloor.
> >>>>>>> ? Lonseal comes in six-foot-wide sections. Ten feet, costing about
> $400,
> >>>>>>> is plenty.
> >>>>>>> ? Lastly, if you have a fat bank account, this really is a project
> left to
> >>>>>>> a floor professional. I did it myself to stretch my boat budget
> and because
> >>>>>>> I?m retired with plenty of time. My guess is that it would cost 3K
> or so,
> >>>>>>> based on $800 in material and $2,200 in labor.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Jack Brennan
> >>>>>>> Sonas, 1998 Catalina 320, no. 528
> >>>>>>> Tierra Verde, Fl. Dolphin Cruising Club of Tampa Bay.
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
> >>>>>>>
> >>>>>>>
> >>> --
> >>> Scott Thompson
> >>> Surprise, #653
> >>>
> >>
> >>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 7
> Date: Wed, 12 Jun 2019 07:43:47 -0700
> From: Utility Email <kswanson123 at comcast.net>
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Re Solar Panels
> Message-ID: <F675164D-4500-4A37-9A11-FC1933EB2925 at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
>
> Yes. In my case, the Genesun MPPT Solar controllers can be purchased in
> 24V models. My Solbian 125W panel puts out 36V I believe.
>
> Dave
>
> David B. Swanson, P.E., S.E.
> Principal, LEED AP, F. SEI
> Executive Vice President
>
> Reid Middleton, Inc.
> Engineers | Planners | Surveyors
>
> Mobile: (425) 508-7971
>
> California Office
> 13220 Evening Creek Drive, Suite 115
> San Diego, CA 92128-4103
> Office: (858) 668-0707 | Fax: (858) 513-2296
>
> Washington Office
> 728-134th Street SW, Suite 200
> Everett, WA 98204
> Office: (425) 741-3800 | Fax: (425) 741-3900
>
> www.reidmiddleton.com
>
> Alaska | California | Hawaii | Washington
>
>
> > On Jun 12, 2019, at 7:00 AM, Ted Harrison <
> tharrison at innovations-plus.com> wrote:
> >
> > Dave, do you know if the unit recognizes 24 v system. I have my two 12v
> batteries in parallel.
> >
> > Ted Harrison
> > Hull 424 1997
> >
> >> On Jun 12, 2019, at 7:55 AM, Dave Chase <londoc at blackbury.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Wasn't able to permanent mount solar panels just yet, but FWIW I got
> one of these units to lash to the deck/bimini out of the way and in the
> best sun. It folds up into a stowable unit. It uses higher efficiency cells
> and I replaced the PWM controller with a Victron Blue Solar MPPT
> controller. Have gotten 97W from it just sitting on the deck. I can't
> attest to durability just yet though.
> >>
> >>
> https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B074ZR3RNP/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1
> >>
> >> Dave
> >> Indigo
> >> 1994 C320 #97
> >>
> >>
> >>> On 6/12/19 7:06 AM, sail-ability at sympatico.ca wrote:
> >>> I have a 180 watt Shuco panel installed on the dinghy davits. Hooked
> up to a Blue Sky controller. Largest consumer on our boat is the fridge.
> System keeps the batteries hard up on sunny days. I think a 250 watt panel
> wud work well even on cloudy days.
> >>> JohnM
> >>> 1999#574
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPhone
> >>>
> >>>> On Jun 11, 2019, at 6:25 PM, Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com>
> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> The problem with that location is that it is under the boom, so it
> likely is shaded when the sun is most directly overhead. Even a small
> amount of shadowing can reduce output significantly, depending on the shape
> and position of the shadow and how the individual cells are wired. For
> example, I've no
>
>
> End of C320-list Digest, Vol 3474, Issue 1
> ******************************************
>
--
James W. Graham
233 Lawndale Street
Wilmette, Illinois 60091
jameswgraham at gmail.com
Phone *847-477-1491*
Fax 206-350-4226
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