[C320-list] Weaver davits for inflatables

[Jack Brennan]

Hi Dave:

Thanks. I used your article as a guide, although I was able to go a simpler route without the custom fabrication because of my smaller dinghy. 

I’m doing my first small trip with it on the 4th of July. (Summer is not the big sailing season here in Florida; Too hot!) We’ll see how they work out, but all indications are that it will be much more convenient than carrying it on the foredeck.

Jack Brennan
Sonas, 1998 Catalina 320, no. 528
Tierra Verde, Fl.
Dolphin Cruising Club of Tampa Bay



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From: Utility Email
Sent: Wednesday, June 26, 2019 12:20 AM
To: C320-List at catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Weaver davits for inflatables

Jack,

Great how to write up.

I also wrote an article in the Catalina Mainsheet Magazine on my particular Weaver Davit installation on my 2007 C320 MK II.  It is a great system, especially with their removable Snap Up Davits.  

A couple of dozen photos of my installation are on our C320IA website at:

https://c320.org/mediagallery/album.php?aid=261&page=1

Nice write up!

Dave

S/V Emily Ann
2007 C320 MK II, No. 1107
Mukilteo, WA




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> On Jun 25, 2019, at 9:59 AM, Jack Brennan <jackbrennan at bellsouth.net> wrote:
> 
> Well, I’m finished installing my Weaver davits for inflatables. A success. Here are some notes for anyone considering this:
> 
> • I have an Achilles LEX-88 inflatable. At 8 feet, 8 inches in length with a 4-foot- 9-inch beam,  this is an ideal size for the 320 in my configuration, which has the davits on the lower step about 14 inches above the waterline. Any larger and the ends of the inflatable will be outside the beam of the boat.
> • Flipped up against the stern, the inflatable is about even with the stern rail. This will create almost no windage. The top of the inflatable is easily tied to the stern rail. My only concern is visibility with the stern light. I may have to raise it up a foot.
> • On the lower step, you can install the steel Weaver brackets about 38 inches apart and still have a flat base. This gives you about 33 inches of inflatable on the outside of each bracket. This is enough to prevent any sagging.
> • With the Achilles, you wouldn’t want to go any wider with the brackets because the bow is shaped in a V about 33-35 inches from the end of the boat. If you install the pad on the V, it won’t reach the bracket.
> • Providing you can fit in the stern lockers, this is an easy install. I positioned the brackets, drilled the holes, then overdrilled them and filled them with epoxy to protect the balsa core. Then I redrilled the holes and installed the brackets with the bolts and 4200 as a sealant. The next day, I installed the nuts with large washers.
> • On the starboard side, the Weaver bolts are too long due to a wooden support for the floor over the fuel tank. Save yourself a lot of work by buying four shorter ones.
> • I originally wanted to hire an inflatable guy to install the pads on the inflatable. I reconsidered after getting two estimates for two hours of work at $150 per hour. I did it properly myself in 45 minutes by following the instructions.
> • Bring the inflatable out on the water and mark where you want the pads with washable Magic Marker. Then bring the boat back on land, inflated, to install the pads. Do this indoors, away from sun and humidity. I did it in my garage with AC running.
> • Tape off the area around where the pads will go. If you have Hypalon, wash it several times with acetone. Then give it a decent sanding with 60-grit sandpaper. Also wash the pads with acetone.
> • Follow the gluing directions. Be warned that the pads stick IMMEDWell, I’m finished installing my Weaver davits for inflatables. A success. Here are some notes for anyone considering this:
> 
> • I have an Achilles LEX-88 inflatable. At 8 feet, 8 inches in length with a 4-foot- 9-inch beam,  this is an ideal size for the 320 in my configuration, which has the davits on the lower step about 14 inches above the waterline. Any larger and the ends of the inflatable will be outside the beam of the boat.
> • Flipped up against the stern, the inflatable is about even with the stern rail. This will create almost no windage. The top of the inflatable is easily tied to the stern rail. My only concern is visibility with the stern light. I may have to raise it up a foot.
> • On the lower step, you can install the steel Weaver brackets about 38 inches apart and still have a flat base. This gives you about 33 inches of inflatable on the outside of each bracket. This is enough to prevent any sagging.
> • With the Achilles, you wouldn’t want to go any wider with the brackets because the bow is shaped in a V about 33-35 inches from the end of the boat. If you install the pad on the V, it won’t reach the bracket.
> • Providing you can fit in the stern lockers, this is an easy install. I positioned the brackets, drilled the holes, then overdrilled them and filled them with epoxy to protect the balsa core. Then I redrilled the holes and installed the brackets with the bolts and 4200 as a sealant. The next day, I installed the nuts with large washers.
> • On the starboard side, the Weaver bolts are too long due to a wooden support for the floor over the fuel tank. Save yourself a lot of work by buying four shorter ones.
> • I originally wanted to hire an inflatable guy to install the pads on the inflatable. I reconsidered after getting two estimates for two hours of work at $150 per hour. I did it properly myself in 45 minutes by following the instructions.
> • Bring the inflatable out on the water and mark where you want the pads with washable Magic Marker. Then bring the boat back on land, inflated, to install the pads. Do this indoors, away from sun and humidity. I did it in my garage with AC running.
> • Tape off the area around where the pads will go. If you have Hypalon, wash it several times with acetone. Then give it a decent sanding with 60-grit sandpaper. Also wash the pads with acetone.
> • Follow the gluing directions. Be warned that the pads stick IMMEDIATELY when you lay them down, so pick your spot before doing so. You can’t shift them. Then let everything cure for a week.
> • I had to remove an Achilles logo and shift a pad that holds an oar to  install the Weaver pads. You can do this with a hair dryer turned to LOW. Heat the pad for a couple of minutes, then use a spoon to work an edge open. Continue heating along the edge as you pry the pad off.
> • In this configuration, you must have the swim ladder up  to clip the inflatable to the brackets. So you have to tie off the dinghy in the usual way instead of leaving it slipped to the stern.
> 
>     That’s about it. If anyone has any questions, I would be glad to answer them.
> 
> Jack Brennan
> Sonas, 1998 Catalina 320, no. 528
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
> Dolphin Cruising Club of Tampa Bay
> 
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows 10
>