[C320-list] Rigging steps and Loos Gauge settings

[tharrison at innovations-plus.com]

First I want to begin with the caveat that I am not a professional rigger
and if you are not confident you should take the appropriate steps to hire a
professional rigger. 

 

At the yacht club I belong we take the mast off in late fall and put the
mast back on in early spring. I think I have put on over 50 masts from keel
stepped to deck stepped. We do this in a team environment but once the mast
is secured each owner will tune the rig themselves. We help each other and
are willing to lend another sailor a hand. 

 

This is my 7th season with my Catalina 320; that means I have put my mast on
6 times and in year one I hired a professional rigger. I have purchase Loos
PT-1 and PT-2 tension gauges. So in my mind I am still a newbie.

 

Here are a few steps I take, the gauge settings and just some of my personal
thoughts for what they are worth.

 

Before you even begin to raise the stick you should check the T-Bolts,
turnbuckle and the shrouds and make sure they are clean and the shrouds are
seated properly on the mast. When the mast is in the air, I give the shrouds
a little up down pull to ensure they are seated properly.  

 

Setting the mast on the deck step is important. There is what I would call
wiggle room when the mast is set in position. So take your time when you are
placing the mast down. 

 

Take your time when you are connecting the shrouds to the turnbuckles.  If
you tighten one side or one shroud more than the other you could end up with
a mast with an S-shape.  I have had this experience, looking at the mast
wondering now how did I managed to achieve that!! Also, you might find that
you cannot pin the shroud. (Putting as Stainless Steel cotter pin through
the hole on the T-bolt and Shroud)

 

So I start the turnbuckle on the T-Bolt first with only a half turn or one
turn at the most. I start with the small grove of the turnbuckle facing out.
Then attach the shroud to the turnbuckle. I count the number of turns. You
most likely will find you can do 15 to 18 turns by hand with a wrench
holding the shroud in place so you are not creating a twist in the standing
rigging. Take your time; you do not want to cross thread the turnbuckle. The
stainless steel cover can be held up out of the way with a clothespin or an
extra set of hands works just as well. 

 

I start with the backstays first and measure both the port and starboard
side. I usually get a reading of about 30 on the gauge on each side. I think
the recommend setting is about 800 lbs.  I come back and tighten the
backstays a little more once I have all the others in place and have
completed a test sail. This tightens up the forestay.  If you are having a
hard time getting the backstays on there is a turnbuckle under the Furler
drum that can be loosened. Just one or one and a half turns will make
getting the backstays on easier.  In my first year getting the backstays on
was stressful.  We used a halyard attached to the deck cleat and cranked the
halyard and two guys pulling down on the backstays. It is best to do the
forestay adjustment when the mast is on land so you do not lose any parts. 

 

I next tighten the caps and usually end around 20 on the gauge. This is the
large gauge.

 

Intermediate shroud is next and I get a reading of 32 on the gauge. 

 

Now the fun begins.  The D1 fwd and D1 aft work together and across from
each other. On Magic Moment I start with the D1 fwd starboard side and
tighten this one until I can just get the cotter pin in place.  Then I move
to the D1 aft on the port side and tighten this one just a little more than
hand tight. Then I move to the D1 aft starboard side and tighten until I
match the reading on the port side. Then I move to the D1 fwd port and tight
this one.  Three out of the four and just a little more than hand tight at
this point.  I usually end up with the D1 aft at 30 and the D1 fwd at 35.
This can be a little bit of a challenge. You tight the D1 Aft starboard and
then you have to loosen the D1 fwd Port.  This keeps the D1 forward at the
same gauge reading while increasing the tension on the D1 aft to get them to
match. It is sometimes a circle game going back and forth and side to side,
doing a half turn up or down at a time.

 

Are you're wonder why I started with the D1 fwd starboard?  I have always
had a hard time with this shroud and at times not been able to pin the
shroud. So I start with this one. This goes back to step one, getting the
mast set in the mast step.    

 

I record the number of turns on each turnbuckle on paper and the gauge
reading.  As an example, do 15 turns on the intermediates. Then do one turn
at a time and then half turn until I am at the desired gauge setting.  In my
case I can quickly forget if that was 15 turns or 20 turns, and ask myself
why I answered the phone in the first place. 

 

The number of turns on a turnbuckle is important. Do them up until they are
hand tight and then do one turn at a time.  

 

One extremely important point.  On the cap and intermediate shrouds do one
shroud at the time and do not loosen all the shrouds on one side. 

 

This is my approach.  Find what works best for you. When you go sailing in
10 knots of wind check the shrouds are they tight or loose and adjust
equally.  

 

Just finished turning my rig this week-end and thought I would share my
experienced.  

 

 

Ted Harrison

Hull 424, 1997

Magic Moment

Whitby Yacht Club