[C320-list] Replacement Windlass Breaker

[Troy Dunn]

David-

The answer to your question depends on what your existing wiring looks like
and how many amps your windlass pulls when fully loaded.  The breaker
protects your wiring not your windlass.  Typically the wiring will be sized
to handle more amps than the (windlass) load can produce under normal
operating range.  On Wonky Dog (Hull #514) the Windlass was wired directly
to the forward battery with a breaker under the settee.  The windlass
wiring in Hull#514 is 105C #4AWG with a 90A breaker.  Based on the ampacity
chart [ http://assets.bluesea.com/files/resources/reference/21731.pdf ]  A
90Amp breaker is fine on Hull#514 because the wiring to the windlass is all
105C rated and it is not bundled in a conduit and the round trip run to the
windlass and back to the battery is short.  Sizing up the breaker is
desirable because without understanding the windlass operating range and
how it is normally used sizing up avoids "nuisance trips" of the breaker.
("improper" use of the windless to "free" a stuck anchor puts a very high
current demand on the circuit, and many folks do that, and it could trip
the breaker if the footswitch is held when the anchor is stuck )

There is a basic diagram of the original wiring on Wonky Dog in my Album
located here:
https://c320.org/mediagallery/download.php?mid=20190427094035341   Note: I
believe this is how Catalina wired all early models of the C320.  What is
interesting is that the original drawing 320-72003-6 dated 3-26-93 [Rev
4_16_94] depicts the positive wire from the breaker going to the Guest
1/2/BOTH/OFF switch and tying to the forward battery ("2") contact there at
the panel, when in reality that wire goes *directly* to the battery post
from the breaker on the settee, a run of about 2 feet tops.   In my boat
there is no wire from the windlass over to the DC Panel near the radio/etc.

As with any 20+ year old boat...lots could have changed since your boat
left the factory.  If your windlass wiring looks like mine and you can
confirm the size and rating of the wire then 90A breaker located in the
same position would be fine...but... since you have an 80A breaker and
maybe your breaker is already over by the DC panel then maybe none of this
is very helpful.  IF your breaker IS about shin high near the forward part
of the starboard settee, you have a few other considerations.   Running #4
wire over to the port side and up to the panel area would be a lot of work
and potentially expense if you don't already have proper crimp tools etc.
Figure at least $200 in wire, *tools,* connectors, heat shrink if you DIY.
  Figure minimum 4 hours labor if you "pay the guy".

Good luck-

Troy Dunn
Hull #514
Wonky Dog



On Sun, Nov 24, 2019 at 1:26 AM David Veeneman <davidv at veeneman.com> wrote:

> I need to replace my windlass breaker, an 80 amp unit. I like the Lexmark
> breaker, because it has a mounting plate, so I cam mount it by the radio—it
> won’t fit my main panel without cutting.
>
> Here’s my problem: Lexmark makes the breaker in 70 and 90 amp models, but
> not 80. Would either of these units be a suitable replacement? If so, which
> one? Thanks for your help.
>
> —
> David Veeneman
> SV Adelante, 1994 C320 #131
> Dane Point, CA
>