[C320-list] C320-list Digest, Vol 3551, Issue 2
Bob Hoyt
rehoyt at gmail.com
Tue Sep 3 13:51:50 PDT 2019
Thanks for the suggestions. Fortunately, I won't need the antifreeze, just
the freshwater flush
Bob
On Tue, Sep 3, 2019 at 3:08 PM <c320-list-request at lists.catalina320.com>
wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
>
> 1. Re: Fresh Water Engine Flush (Gus Macdonald)
> 2. Re: Fresh Water Engine Flush (Christian)
> 3. Re: Fresh Water Engine Flush (Ted Harrison)
> 4. Re: Leak appearing under holding tank (chuters1 at gmail.com)
> 5. Re: Fresh Water Engine Flush (John Meyers)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 14:20:13 -0400
> From: Gus Macdonald <rathlyn1 at gmail.com>
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fresh Water Engine Flush
> Message-ID: <E327F09F-8313-4AE4-9F33-9AA55A34EDEB at gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> Good discussion on this subject. As an aside and a question for John?when
> winterizing, do you use an automotive type ethylene glycol anti-freeze in
> the ?fresh water? cooling circuit or a non-toxic type anti-freeze (usually
> pink)? I have asked many people this in the Great Lakes area and the
> responses are about 50/50. Naturally if the ethylene glycol type is used
> it must be removed before the boat goes back in the water in the spring to
> avoid pollution.
>
> Gus
> Hull #999
> Georgian Bay
>
>
>
>
>
> > On Sep 3, 2019, at 12:23 PM, John Meyers <jcmeyers7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Like Christian, I also have a Tee for antifreeze here on the (Unsalted
> and
> > Shark Free) Great Lakes. I put my Tee just after the thru hull and before
> > the strainer so that the antifreeze is also in the strainer. Not that it
> > makes much of a difference but my thru hull outputs forward which makes
> it
> > slightly easier to attach the short hose to the bucket of antifreeze in
> the
> > cockpit.
> >
> > John Meyers
> > Wind Chime #406
> > Muskegon, MI
> >
> > On Tue, Sep 3, 2019 at 11:25 AM Christian <ccaper at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> >> Bob,
> >> I have done this for winterizing my boat to flush out water and get
> >> anti-freeze in the system. I installed the t-fitting last fall.
> >>
> >> Here is the t-fitting I ordered, available at Walmart for $1.67.
> >>
> >>
> https://www.walmart.com/ip/LASCO-Fem-Tee-Insert-x-FNPT-3-4-In-PVC-1402007/406982633
> >>
> >> Take this t-fitting to Home Depot, and in the pvc section get the male
> end
> >> cap, matched to the threads in t-fitting. You will want this end cap in
> >> the t-fitting during normal boat use, and use some teflon tape on this
> >> threads as well. Then, go to the plumbing section and get a male PVC to
> >> male garden hose adapter that will convert the threads to a garden hose
> >> thread. This allows you to connect a garden hose to your raw water
> line.
> >> Mine was a metal adapter. Also get hose clamps for 3/4" hose, you'll
> need
> >> at least 2. I recommend 4, 2 on each side of the t-fitting, each one
> >> flipped 180 for redundancy.
> >>
> >> All parts will be less than $15 total. You'll also need auto hose
> cutters,
> >> and a likely a wire cutter at that hose has re-enforced wire you'll
> need to
> >> cut where hose cutter couldn't cut through.
> >>
> >> When you want to use the t-fitting, connect the garden hose to the
> >> t-fitting, pass the hose through a port light opening, have a bucket in
> the
> >> cockpit, put other end of hose in bucket, and CLOSE through hull for raw
> >> water intake. Start engine, and just mind you don't run out of water in
> >> the bucket and that hose is at bottom of bucket and hasn't floated to
> the
> >> top, only sucking in air. Nice thing about this is you can also easily
> >> start engine on land when needed.
> >>
> >> I've included a link to two pictures I took when I did this. Don't make
> >> the same location mistake I made, and put the t-fitting right under the
> >> Racor filter, as now I have a difficult time draining my racor (I plan
> to
> >> adjust that this fall during haul out).
> >>
> >> https://www.instagram.com/p/BorFrCCDV3B/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
> >>
> >> Hope this helps.
> >>
> >> Christian Caperton
> >> 1994 C320 "Canuck" #138
> >> Monroe Harbor, Chicago, IL
> >>
> >> On Tue, Sep 3, 2019 at 10:00 AM Bob Hoyt <rehoyt at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >>> A diesel mechanic recommended that I flush the raw water side of the
> >> engine
> >>> with fresh water when not using the boat for more than 2 weeks. This
> >> would
> >>> require installing a barbed tee piece between the strainer and the
> water
> >>> pump. Has anyone done this as I didn't find it in the forum archives?
> >> Also,
> >>> I live in Florida so I don't need to do this as part of winterizing.
> >> Thanks
> >>>
> >>> Bob Hoyt
> >>> "Ikigai"
> >>> !994 Hull #58
> >>> Pensacola, FL
> >>>
> >>> --
> >>>
> >>> *Robert (Bob) Hoyt MD, FACP, ABPM-CI*
> >>>
> >>> *Associate Clinical Professor, Department of Internal Medicine*
> >>>
> >>> *Virginia Commonwealth University*
> >>>
> >>> *Richmond, VA*
> >>>
> >>>
> >>> *CAPT (Ret) USN*
> >>>
> >>>
> >>>
> >>
> *---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
> >>>
> >>> *Adjunct Associate Professor, College of Allied Health Professions*
> >>>
> >>> *University of Nebraska Medical Center*
> >>>
> >>> *Omaha, NE*
> >>>
> >>> *Diplomate, Clinical Informatics*
> >>>
> >>> InformaticsEducation.org <http://InformaticsEducation.org>
> >>> rehoyt at gmail.com
> >>>
> >>> robert.hoyt at unmc.edu <robert.hoyt at unmd.edu>
> >>>
> >>> robert.hoyt at vcuhealth.org
> >>>
> >>> Cell: 850-384-5235
> >>>
> >>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 13:25:35 -0500
> From: Christian <ccaper at gmail.com>
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fresh Water Engine Flush
> Message-ID:
> <
> CALPivwKEPWV4nH5juXhVSOTvqG-QYNd4rDcfkXtDROSu+P1qaA at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> "when winterizing, do you use an automotive type ethylene glycol
> anti-freeze in the ?fresh water? cooling circuit or a non-toxic type
> anti-freeze (usually pink)?"
>
> I don't know anyone in the area that uses eth gly type for winterizing.
> Not only do you need to get it into your engine, you need to get it into
> the aqua muffler too, and the eth gly type isn't even good to be pumped out
> onto the ground. I use a non toxic type, good for down to -100F, that is
> green.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 14:34:16 -0400
> From: Ted Harrison <tharrison at innovations-plus.com>
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fresh Water Engine Flush
> Message-ID:
> <BD486D96-6681-434D-9D7A-C6D45F15DE73 at innovations-plus.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
>
> I use the green non-toxic. It has a higher ratting that the pink.
>
> I also vacuum out the water lines and the heater.
>
> I collect the green in a bucket in spring and dispose of accordingly.
>
> Been doing this for 6 years now with no problems
>
> Ted Harrison
> Hull 424 1997
> Lake Ontario - Whitby Yacht Club
>
> > On Sep 3, 2019, at 2:20 PM, Gus Macdonald <rathlyn1 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >
> > Good discussion on this subject. As an aside and a question for
> John?when winterizing, do you use an automotive type ethylene glycol
> anti-freeze in the ?fresh water? cooling circuit or a non-toxic type
> anti-freeze (usually pink)? I have asked many people this in the Great
> Lakes area and the responses are about 50/50. Naturally if the ethylene
> glycol type is used it must be removed before the boat goes back in the
> water in the spring to avoid pollution.
> >
> > Gus
> > Hull #999
> > Georgian Bay
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >> On Sep 3, 2019, at 12:23 PM, John Meyers <jcmeyers7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> Like Christian, I also have a Tee for antifreeze here on the (Unsalted
> and
> >> Shark Free) Great Lakes. I put my Tee just after the thru hull and
> before
> >> the strainer so that the antifreeze is also in the strainer. Not that it
> >> makes much of a difference but my thru hull outputs forward which makes
> it
> >> slightly easier to attach the short hose to the bucket of antifreeze in
> the
> >> cockpit.
> >>
> >> John Meyers
> >> Wind Chime #406
> >> Muskegon, MI
> >>
> >>> On Tue, Sep 3, 2019 at 11:25 AM Christian <ccaper at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Bob,
> >>> I have done this for winterizing my boat to flush out water and get
> >>> anti-freeze in the system. I installed the t-fitting last fall.
> >>>
> >>> Here is the t-fitting I ordered, available at Walmart for $1.67.
> >>>
> >>>
> https://www.walmart.com/ip/LASCO-Fem-Tee-Insert-x-FNPT-3-4-In-PVC-1402007/406982633
> >>>
> >>> Take this t-fitting to Home Depot, and in the pvc section get the male
> end
> >>> cap, matched to the threads in t-fitting. You will want this end cap
> in
> >>> the t-fitting during normal boat use, and use some teflon tape on this
> >>> threads as well. Then, go to the plumbing section and get a male PVC
> to
> >>> male garden hose adapter that will convert the threads to a garden hose
> >>> thread. This allows you to connect a garden hose to your raw water
> line.
> >>> Mine was a metal adapter. Also get hose clamps for 3/4" hose, you'll
> need
> >>> at least 2. I recommend 4, 2 on each side of the t-fitting, each one
> >>> flipped 180 for redundancy.
> >>>
> >>> All parts will be less than $15 total. You'll also need auto hose
> cutters,
> >>> and a likely a wire cutter at that hose has re-enforced wire you'll
> need to
> >>> cut where hose cutter couldn't cut through.
> >>>
> >>> When you want to use the t-fitting, connect the garden hose to the
> >>> t-fitting, pass the hose through a port light opening, have a bucket
> in the
> >>> cockpit, put other end of hose in bucket, and CLOSE through hull for
> raw
> >>> water intake. Start engine, and just mind you don't run out of water
> in
> >>> the bucket and that hose is at bottom of bucket and hasn't floated to
> the
> >>> top, only sucking in air. Nice thing about this is you can also easily
> >>> start engine on land when needed.
> >>>
> >>> I've included a link to two pictures I took when I did this. Don't
> make
> >>> the same location mistake I made, and put the t-fitting right under the
> >>> Racor filter, as now I have a difficult time draining my racor (I plan
> to
> >>> adjust that this fall during haul out).
> >>>
> >>> https://www.instagram.com/p/BorFrCCDV3B/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
> >>>
> >>> Hope this helps.
> >>>
> >>> Christian Caperton
> >>> 1994 C320 "Canuck" #138
> >>> Monroe Harbor, Chicago, IL
> >>>
> >>>> On Tue, Sep 3, 2019 at 10:00 AM Bob Hoyt <rehoyt at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> A diesel mechanic recommended that I flush the raw water side of the
> >>> engine
> >>>> with fresh water when not using the boat for more than 2 weeks. This
> >>> would
> >>>> require installing a barbed tee piece between the strainer and the
> water
> >>>> pump. Has anyone done this as I didn't find it in the forum archives?
> >>> Also,
> >>>> I live in Florida so I don't need to do this as part of winterizing.
> >>> Thanks
> >>>>
> >>>> Bob Hoyt
> >>>> "Ikigai"
> >>>> !994 Hull #58
> >>>> Pensacola, FL
> >>>>
> >>>> --
> >>>>
> >>>> *Robert (Bob) Hoyt MD, FACP, ABPM-CI*
> >>>>
> >>>> *Associate Clinical Professor, Department of Internal Medicine*
> >>>>
> >>>> *Virginia Commonwealth University*
> >>>>
> >>>> *Richmond, VA*
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> *CAPT (Ret) USN*
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> *---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
> >>>>
> >>>> *Adjunct Associate Professor, College of Allied Health Professions*
> >>>>
> >>>> *University of Nebraska Medical Center*
> >>>>
> >>>> *Omaha, NE*
> >>>>
> >>>> *Diplomate, Clinical Informatics*
> >>>>
> >>>> InformaticsEducation.org <http://InformaticsEducation.org>
> >>>> rehoyt at gmail.com
> >>>>
> >>>> robert.hoyt at unmc.edu <robert.hoyt at unmd.edu>
> >>>>
> >>>> robert.hoyt at vcuhealth.org
> >>>>
> >>>> Cell: 850-384-5235
> >>>>
> >>>
> >
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 4
> Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 19:21:53 +0000 (UTC)
> From: chuters1 at gmail.com
> To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Leak appearing under holding tank
> Message-ID: <996380569.1201156.1567538513852 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
>
> Check the connections on the hot water heater.
> Jack#441
>
>
> Sent from Yahoo Mail for iPhone
>
>
> On Tuesday, September 3, 2019, 12:14 PM, Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk>
> wrote:
>
> A good tip is to use colured food dye where you think the leak might be
> originating and see if it migrates as you expect. A few years ago we had
> pink dye in the aftvwater tank, blue dye in the holding tank and green dye
> where the stern gland drips in ordet to find a leak!
>
> Graeme
> #366 1996
>
> > On 3 Sep 2019, at 17:11, Ted Harrison <tharrison at innovations-plus.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > If it was the holding tank you would have a very distinct odour.
> >
> > My guess the head facet or one of the facet lines. Or perhaps the
> connection at the aft tank.?
> >
> > Ted Harrison
> >
> >> On Sep 3, 2019, at 11:46 AM, Joe Luciano <jnluciano at comcast.net> wrote:
> >>
> >> So can leaks from under the galley sink area.? The path a leak will
> take often times is indirect and can be a head scratcher.
> >>
> >> Joe Luciano
> >> Second Wind
> >> 2005 C-320
> >>
> >> Sent from my iPhone
> >>
> >>> On Sep 2, 2019, at 6:36 PM, Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com>
> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> Before taking out the holding tank I?d check the aft water tank and
> all thruhulls in the head compartment. Leaks from those areas can show up
> under the holding tank.
> >>>
> >>>> On Sep 2, 2019, at 9:25 PM, kskis at aol.com wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Hello.? This morning after a 3:00AM trip to the head I began to hear
> the bilge pump turn on for 5 seconds every 15 minutes. Although I know the
> holding tank was not full I pumped out at 10:00AM.? The bilge pump
> continued its serenade every 15-25 minutes until I left the boat at 2:00PM
> today.? Fresh water pump never went on.? All areas leading to the bilge are
> dry except the area coming from directly under the holding tank.? There is
> a small puddle under the port/bow corner of the tank, just below the lower
> hose connection.? I can't reach my hand in to feel where the wet is coming
> from but I see a few very small drops of moisture on the plastic hose
> connection of that lower holding tank hose.? Most obvious is to check that
> hose connection which I can't reach to try to tighten.? All other areas are
> dry-macerator, hoses, etc.? Any other thoughts?? Does anyone know how that
> hose connection works?? Catalina Direct lists it as a "female" connection
> but not sure which direction to try
> to tighten it.? I ordered long-handled pump pliers but not even sure that
> will reach it.? Thinking I might have to start removing hoses and loosen
> the tank itself to even reach down there.? Any advice would be much
> appreciated.? Neil Kornblatt, #973 Harmony, East Hampton, NY
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>
> >>
>
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 5
> Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 15:30:52 -0400
> From: John Meyers <jcmeyers7 at gmail.com>
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fresh Water Engine Flush
> Message-ID:
> <CANEXtrLHVbkTBw9d5aquD3XnN6Ga3wYTD1waPaF5kgU07T18=
> A at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
>
> Gus,
>
> I go to West Marine when they have the best/coldest MARINE antifreeze on
> sale. This might be the -60, or even the -100 which may be overkill here
> less than 5 miles east of the Lake Michigan "warm" water furnace a.k.a.
> lake effect we experience as the temps on land never get below minus 20 F
> and rarely get below zero further inland . This is the non-toxic stuff that
> can be flushed back into the lake as soon as we start the engine after
> splash. You might have the same lake affect on Georgian Bay. Never a
> problem.
>
> I use the Yanmar coolant for the engine and that gets disposed of properly
> at the marina. I use the -50 grade for water systems minus the hot water
> heater that I suck dry every fall.
>
> John
>
> On Tue, Sep 3, 2019 at 2:20 PM Gus Macdonald <rathlyn1 at gmail.com> wrote:
>
> > Good discussion on this subject. As an aside and a question for
> John?when
> > winterizing, do you use an automotive type ethylene glycol anti-freeze in
> > the ?fresh water? cooling circuit or a non-toxic type anti-freeze
> (usually
> > pink)? I have asked many people this in the Great Lakes area and the
> > responses are about 50/50. Naturally if the ethylene glycol type is used
> > it must be removed before the boat goes back in the water in the spring
> to
> > avoid pollution.
> >
> > Gus
> > Hull #999
> > Georgian Bay
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > > On Sep 3, 2019, at 12:23 PM, John Meyers <jcmeyers7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > > Like Christian, I also have a Tee for antifreeze here on the (Unsalted
> > and
> > > Shark Free) Great Lakes. I put my Tee just after the thru hull and
> before
> > > the strainer so that the antifreeze is also in the strainer. Not that
> it
> > > makes much of a difference but my thru hull outputs forward which makes
> > it
> > > slightly easier to attach the short hose to the bucket of antifreeze in
> > the
> > > cockpit.
> > >
> > > John Meyers
> > > Wind Chime #406
> > > Muskegon, MI
> > >
> > > On Tue, Sep 3, 2019 at 11:25 AM Christian <ccaper at gmail.com> wrote:
> > >
> > >> Bob,
> > >> I have done this for winterizing my boat to flush out water and get
> > >> anti-freeze in the system. I installed the t-fitting last fall.
> > >>
> > >> Here is the t-fitting I ordered, available at Walmart for $1.67.
> > >>
> > >>
> >
> https://www.walmart.com/ip/LASCO-Fem-Tee-Insert-x-FNPT-3-4-In-PVC-1402007/406982633
> > >>
> > >> Take this t-fitting to Home Depot, and in the pvc section get the male
> > end
> > >> cap, matched to the threads in t-fitting. You will want this end cap
> in
> > >> the t-fitting during normal boat use, and use some teflon tape on this
> > >> threads as well. Then, go to the plumbing section and get a male PVC
> to
> > >> male garden hose adapter that will convert the threads to a garden
> hose
> > >> thread. This allows you to connect a garden hose to your raw water
> > line.
> > >> Mine was a metal adapter. Also get hose clamps for 3/4" hose, you'll
> > need
> > >> at least 2. I recommend 4, 2 on each side of the t-fitting, each one
> > >> flipped 180 for redundancy.
> > >>
> > >> All parts will be less than $15 total. You'll also need auto hose
> > cutters,
> > >> and a likely a wire cutter at that hose has re-enforced wire you'll
> > need to
> > >> cut where hose cutter couldn't cut through.
> > >>
> > >> When you want to use the t-fitting, connect the garden hose to the
> > >> t-fitting, pass the hose through a port light opening, have a bucket
> in
> > the
> > >> cockpit, put other end of hose in bucket, and CLOSE through hull for
> raw
> > >> water intake. Start engine, and just mind you don't run out of water
> in
> > >> the bucket and that hose is at bottom of bucket and hasn't floated to
> > the
> > >> top, only sucking in air. Nice thing about this is you can also
> easily
> > >> start engine on land when needed.
> > >>
> > >> I've included a link to two pictures I took when I did this. Don't
> make
> > >> the same location mistake I made, and put the t-fitting right under
> the
> > >> Racor filter, as now I have a difficult time draining my racor (I plan
> > to
> > >> adjust that this fall during haul out).
> > >>
> > >> https://www.instagram.com/p/BorFrCCDV3B/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link
> > >>
> > >> Hope this helps.
> > >>
> > >> Christian Caperton
> > >> 1994 C320 "Canuck" #138
> > >> Monroe Harbor, Chicago, IL
> > >>
> > >> On Tue, Sep 3, 2019 at 10:00 AM Bob Hoyt <rehoyt at gmail.com> wrote:
> > >>
> > >>> A diesel mechanic recommended that I flush the raw water side of the
> > >> engine
> > >>> with fresh water when not using the boat for more than 2 weeks. This
> > >> would
> > >>> require installing a barbed tee piece between the strainer and the
> > water
> > >>> pump. Has anyone done this as I didn't find it in the forum archives?
> > >> Also,
> > >>> I live in Florida so I don't need to do this as part of winterizing.
> > >> Thanks
> > >>>
> > >>> Bob Hoyt
> > >>> "Ikigai"
> > >>> !994 Hull #58
> > >>> Pensacola, FL
> > >>>
> > >>> --
> > >>>
> > >>> *Robert (Bob) Hoyt MD, FACP, ABPM-CI*
> > >>>
> > >>> *Associate Clinical Professor, Department of Internal Medicine*
> > >>>
> > >>> *Virginia Commonwealth University*
> > >>>
> > >>> *Richmond, VA*
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> *CAPT (Ret) USN*
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>
> >
> *---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
> > >>>
> > >>> *Adjunct Associate Professor, College of Allied Health Professions*
> > >>>
> > >>> *University of Nebraska Medical Center*
> > >>>
> > >>> *Omaha, NE*
> > >>>
> > >>> *Diplomate, Clinical Informatics*
> > >>>
> > >>> InformaticsEducation.org <http://InformaticsEducation.org>
> > >>> rehoyt at gmail.com
> > >>>
> > >>> robert.hoyt at unmc.edu <robert.hoyt at unmd.edu>
> > >>>
> > >>> robert.hoyt at vcuhealth.org
> > >>>
> > >>> Cell: 850-384-5235
> > >>>
> > >>
> >
> >
>
>
> End of C320-list Digest, Vol 3551, Issue 2
> ******************************************
>
--
*Robert (Bob) Hoyt MD, FACP, ABPM-CI*
*Associate Clinical Professor, Department of Internal Medicine*
*Virginia Commonwealth University*
*Richmond, VA*
*CAPT (Ret) USN*
*---------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------*
*Adjunct Associate Professor, College of Allied Health Professions*
*University of Nebraska Medical Center*
*Omaha, NE*
*Diplomate, Clinical Informatics*
InformaticsEducation.org <http://InformaticsEducation.org>
rehoyt at gmail.com
robert.hoyt at unmc.edu <robert.hoyt at unmd.edu>
robert.hoyt at vcuhealth.org
Cell: 850-384-5235
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