[C320-list] Boom Repairs for C320

[John morrison]

On my boat ,a 1999 the outhaul end of the boom just rests on an axle in a slot. Releasing the pressure on the lines coming out allow you to pull out the sleeve assembly to be removed. Everything else can then be pulled through. Might be different on a 1996?
Cheers
JohnM
1999#574
> On May 4, 2020, at 3:43 AM, Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk> wrote:
> 
> Assuming it’s the same as my 1996, you’ll have to drill out the rivets and remove the casting at the end of the boom because the eye at either end of the wire is too big to pass through it.
> 
> Drilling out rivets can be “fun” if they start to spin in their holes. If so I take a small center punch and just ping the edge of the rivet flange which normally holds it.
> 
> Use Monel rivets to replace, to avoid corrosion issues with dissimilar metals.
> 
> If you don’t have or can’t borrow a rivet gun, it’s a job you may prefer to leave to your local rigger though
> 
> Graeme
> 1996, #366
> 
> Sent from my iPad
> 
>> On 4 May 2020, at 01:39, HOLLY DAVIS <hdavis787 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> I need to replace the out haul on my 1995 320.  I am looking for any tips. My adjustment line is shot. Inside the boom, this line attaches to a wire, which exits the boom and is attached to the clew. 
>> thank you for any suggestions.
>> 
>> Holly Davis
>> 
>> Honu 1995
>>> On Apr 27, 2018, at 8:56 AM, Scott Thompson <surprise at thompson87.com> wrote:
>>> 
>>> You have gotten a few responses about the reef line but none about the outhaul. Replacing the outhaul line is on my "to do" list for this Spring. The standard outhaul is a 3 to one purchase. The "adjustment line" (the one you pull) enters at the gooseneck, runs to a floating block inside the boom, then forward to a fixed block inside the boom at the gooseneck end, then back to the floating block, where it is tied off on a becket. This gives a 3 to one purchase on the floating block. There is a second line tied to the shackle of the floating block that exits the aft end of the boom for tying off at the clew of the mainsail. The best way to replace the adjustment line is to use the second line (the one that attaches to the sail) to pull the floating block close to the aft end of the boom, where you can grab and extract it through the end. You then have access to both ends of the adjustment line, and can use the old line to pull a new one through. For this to work, the adjustment line needs to be at least 3 times the length of the boom. If it has been shortened you may need to attach a messenger line to the end that goes into the forward end of the boom in order to lengthen it enough so that you can extract the floating block from the aft end of the boom.
>>> 
>>> It may help you to take a look at page 13 of the "Mast & Boom Handbook" at https://c320.org/filemgmt/visit.php?lid=49 which shows the basic hardware. As pictured, the left side of the photo would be the aft end of the boom and the right side would be the mast end. Block 1 in that picture is the floating block and block 2 is the fixed block. The line pictured is what I've called the "adjustment line." The line that connects the floating block to the sail is not pictured, but would attach to the shackle of block 1. The only way to access block 2 is to take apart the boom, which is a big deal.
>>> 
>>> Scott Thompson
>>> 
>>> Surprise, #653 (1999)
>>> 
>>> 
>>> 
>>>> On 4/26/2018 4:58 PM, millers1 at aol.com wrote:
>>>> I have a 2000, #680, non-furling Main Boom.
>>>> Looked on the discussion site, not much on the boom  and  the sketch supplied by Catalina
>>>> is marginal....
>>>> Has anyone re-run the reef lines and out haul line in the boom???.... any sketches ??
>>>> Thanks
>>>> Art
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> 
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: John Morrison <sail-ability at sympatico.ca>
>>>> To: C320-List <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
>>>> Sent: Mon, Apr 23, 2018 7:21 am
>>>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Dinghy Hard bottom Aluminum vs. Fiberglass open ended question
>>>> 
>>>> AL clearly the way to go. I have a Walker Bay rib which has the ABS Hull very rugged but for a similar sized AL rib it’s about 30lb heavier. Also I went with the hypalon tubes instead of the PVC. Unless the dinghy is continually in the Sun PVC is just fine. I’ve been looking at the Highfield products and wud buy one of them.
>>>> 
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> 
>>>>> On Apr 23, 2018, at 5:03 AM, Scott Westwood <scottwestwood at bellsouth.net> wrote:
>>>>> 
>>>>> We are starting to do homework on replacing our dinghy once/if  we get davits.
>>>>> We are leaning towards hard bottom dinghy and hearing pros and cons of Aluminum vs fiberglass.
>>>>> Any thoughts out there?
>>>>> So far, we are hearing that Aluminum is lighter.  Not much else yet.
>>>>> Thanks,
>>>>> Scott Westwood scottwestwood at bellsouth.net H (919)-362-8538    C (919)-618-7185
>>> 
>> 
>