[C320-list] Tools to Rebed Stanchions

[Dave Hupe]

 Thanks very much Frank ....... all makes sense!  
I am more and more inclined to approach this by cutting rectangular openings where needed in the fiberglass wiring channel, but not cut completely out from the bottom as you describe you did.  A bigger opening like yours to reach in would be better, but I don't want to impact anything structurally. 
With neck/back issues, I just can't imagine trying to accomplish getting to the bigger support nut by coming up below/behind the wiring channel.  
Dave Hupe
1994 C320 (#32)
Holland, MI____________________________________________________________________________________________________
    On Tuesday, May 12, 2020, 02:51:20 PM EDT, P.F. Ross <pfrstl at gmail.com> wrote:  
 
 Dave,

I have done this using the flange "cut through" method and cannot imagine
trying to do it otherwise.  I will outline what I did, although this is all
from memory as I am far from my boat right now.  I think this may have also
been covered (probably more thoroughly) by others before.

Remove the teak covers and feel up behind the fiberglass flange for the
main stanchion nut (IIRC it is 7/8"), the secondary support nut and the and
the couple of smaller nuts holding down the screws from the stanchion
plate.  This will give you an idea of how wide to make the cut for access.
I then used a marker to lay out where the vertical cuts would be.  The
horizontal cut would just be at the top of the flange.  Seems like the
openings were about 4 to 5 inches wide.

I used a Dremel "multi-tool" with the semi-circular saw blade which can be
plunged into the FRP flange for the cuts.  First, however, I used a 1" hole
saw in a drill motor to cut holes at the fore and aft edges of where I
would be cutting with the multi tool.  These holes thus provided radii
between where I would make the vertical and horizontal cuts.  Hope this
makes sense.

You do need to be aware of wiring that runs behind the flange, especially
on the port side since that is where the AC (and much other) wiring runs.
I used a piece of thin wood pushed up between the flange and the wires to
act as a shield.  Also, the multi tool semi-circular blade is pretty easy
to control the depth of cut if you take your time.

After the flange is cut, you can use normal tools (sockets, open end
wrenches, etc) to access the nuts.  I found in more than one case (so far I
have rebedded 5 stanchions) that the 5200 (I assume) adhesive sealant used
between the hull and deck had oozed onto the large nuts.  With access from
the opening, I was able to chip and/or grind away 5200 to allow the nut to
turn.  I'm not sure how you would do this if you were trying to reach up in
there with a crows foot, although it sounds like other have done this.

I used metric stainless fender washers I found at my local Ace Hardware to
replace the original washers.  For some reason, the metric style fender
washers were about four times as thick as the original fender washers and
were close enough size-wise to work.

I rebedded all hardware using butyl sealant after chamfering holes on the
deck side per Rod Collins advice on marinehowto.  I also recommend his
butyl tape.

This work has completely solved my leaking stanchions.  I realize I now
have a number of openings in flanges that may have some structural
importance so please proceed at your own discretion.  However, some of
these openings on my boat have been in place for more than three years and
I have not seen any issues.  If you really wanted to be safe perhaps you
could just cut a rectangular "window" in the flange instead of cutting a
complete chunk out like I did.

Good luck,

Frank Ross
Beta Wave #206
Naples, FL

On Sun, May 10, 2020 at 7:56 AM Dave Hupe <hoopdtwo at yahoo.com> wrote:

> There have been several very good guides I've read from other owners
> (particularly Warren Updike and Herb Creech) about how to go about
> rebedding stanchions. Due to looseness and leaks, I'm faced with probably
> rebedding both of my gate stanchions (the ones on the port and starboard
> sides of the cockpit with double legs) .
> In order to be able to reach up from underneath and turn the large nuts
> under the stanchions, "crow foot"  wrenches have been recommended that can
> be used at 90 degree angles off of ratchet extensions from down in the
> cabin along the outer wall sides.  Warren recommended these inexpensive
> crow foot wrenches from Harbor Freight for the job
> https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=crow%20foot%20wrench%20set
> Alternatively, other owners have removed the top teak covers at the cabin
> sides and then cut openings through the fiberglass wiring channels beneath
> .  This allowed them to reach with open box wrenches from the sides through
> these openings directly at the nuts.  Reportedly cutting into the wiring
> channels does not compromise the structural integrity.  You only need to be
> careful about wiring running along the channels.  The teak will cover these
> holes (if not made too large) after completing the rebedding.
> My question ...... in order to buy the correct set of tools, can anyone
> tell me the size of the nuts (particularly the largest on the main
> support)?  Are they SAE or metric?
> Any and all other suggestions would be appreciated. Thanks !
> Dave Hupe
> 1994 C320 (#32) "Mayan Sun"
> Holland, MI
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