[C320-list] Inadequate Dedicated Starting Battery

[Jack Brennan]

I have one, and I’ve carried it onboard during longer trips as well as in my car. Still, they are lithium batteries, and I have some concern about their propensity to cause fires. My concern may be unwarranted. Anyone have any better information than me?

Jack Brennan
Sonas, 1998 Catlina 320
Tierra Verde, Fl.


Sent from Mail for Windows

From: Joe Geiger
Sent: Wednesday, December 8, 2021 10:27 PM
To: C320-List at catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Inadequate Dedicated Starting Battery

Some others on this list have mentioned the portable jump starters that are available for under $100 as a back-up with or without a starting battery. 

When at anchor we put a 15lb block of ice in the fridge and use the system during the day when It’s hottest. I typically turn the it off at night because we sleep in the aft cabin and it keeps the admiral up.  I monitor the batteries and run the motor to recharge once they drop just below 12v, but this only happens for extended stays. 

Installing a dedicated starting battery is a major project I decided against based on my usage patterns and relying on my jumpstarter pack if my house batteries do drain low enough to be a starting issue. 

I’ve never had to use it. 

Joe
--
Joe Geiger
Vega #722 
Greenwich Cove, RI

> On Dec 7, 2021, at 10:30 PM, Jack Brennan <jackbrennan at bellsouth.net> wrote:
> Hi Troy:
> 
> I’m not an engineer, so I have to qo with what has worked for me. It may be that I have been blessed with two great Yanmars that start in a split second, no cranking, and run all day. The starting load on my batteries is as minimal as can be.
> 
> My system is that I have three group 24s as house on No. 2 and one group 24 on No. 1 as reserve. I have 300 watts of solar and a Xantrex solar controller that charges each bank independently. I use No. 2 almost exclusively, so No. 1 just sits there completely charged and happy.
> 
> In sunny Florida, solar usually tops off the batteries by early afternoon. In a recent anchor out, my wife draped so many Christmas lights on the boat that we were at 11.7 volts when we went to sleep. We were at 12.2 by 10 a.m. 
> 
> I could be wrong because I’m not at the boat, but I’m pretty sure the cable to the starter (and between the charger/controller and the batteries) are all 0. I want to say the two cables between the batteries and the switch are maybe 2. And yes, the windlass is 4.
> 
> Yeah, my windlass cables are connected to No. 1, but I almost never use the windlass because it is the original model with no chain gypsy. Even though I’m pushing 69, I can still do a good job as a human windlass with a 35-pound Delta and 40 feet of chain, especially because most of my anchoring is in 8-10 feet of water.
> 
> I still wish I could get Trojans into that starboard settee locker, but I can’t see any way to do it without jury-rigging the setup. Inches count. I bought some Korean golf cart batteries that fit, but they died after two years. One was so hot I was lucky it didn’t explode. That cured me of Rocket batteries.
> 
> Jack Brennan
> Sonas, 1998 Catalia 320
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
> Dolphin Cruising Club of Tampa Bay
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows
> 
> From: Troy Dunn
> Sent: Tuesday, December 7, 2021 8:35 PM
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Inadequate Dedicated Starting Battery
> 
> Couple of nagging issues here.    The original 4AWG cables were for the
> charger and windlass.   You can look in my gallery for the original DC
> wiring diagram as well as a decent idea of a good way to set up for your
> current configuration.   Trying to start your Yanmar engine with a 4AWG
> cable and by who knows what path is robbing your starter of power due to
> voltage drop/sag.    Even when you are successfully cranking you aren’t
> doing it well and that will lead to premature starter failure as well as
> battery issues.   Upgrade to 1/0 cable which is really required for the
> amps your starter is drawing.
> 
> Also if you are using this battery as a dedicated start battery then most
> CCAs is the best way to go for deciding which battery to get.
> Unfortunately it sounds like maybe your battery is wired through the
> combine switch as a reserve battery not a start battery.   Sounds like
> semantics but it isn’t.   If you have the normal 1/2/BOTH/OFF switch then
> you are most likely just having your G27 battery hanging out in what you
> think is full reserve use for your starter…but….your windless might (I say
> might because you really need to understand why there are 4AWG cables on
> the battery) still be wired to the G27.   That would mean that your G27 is
> getting used every time you use that current sucking device at the bow of
> your boat.   Now…if for instance you anchor all week, you think the battery
> is hanging out…all the while you are actually hitting hard for juice coming
> off anchor…then…you have a big problem if you aren’t a)switching to BOTH
> while using your alternator or b) have an ACR.
> 
> Number 1 is a no brainer your starter can draw huge currents…especially
> when it’s hard starting (the current goes up actually)   Your wire needs to
> be sized to that current draw and 4AWG isn’t correct.
> 
> Number 2 is way more complicated with so many variables…you need more info,
> maybe you are fine or could be fine with simple “operational work arounds”
> (this is engineer lingo for we messed up the design because we didn’t
> understand the requirements so…don’t do that…LOL)
> 
> FWIW
> 
> Troy Dunn
> Hull #514 (Wonky Dog)