[C320-list] Water heater replacement now coolant.....

[John Beck]

What color was it? Coolant isn’t rocket science. If it had green put green
back in. If it had orange put orange, even though I wouldn’t put it in
anything, You have cast iron head and cast iron block very little aluminum.
Go to advance or auto zone don’t pay “ marine” prices.

On Mon, May 24, 2021 at 9:48 AM Doug Treff <doug at treff.us> wrote:

> Jamie,
>
> I can't help with sources, other than Amazon, (I assume you've tried
> BayShore, Fawcetts, West Marine).
>
> What I do know is that Yanmar has published a list of satisfactory
> alternatives, linked below from the C320 site. However, If you switch
> brands, you will need to do a super flush (many flushes with fresh water to
> get the remnants of the old stuff out).
>
> The Service Bulletins - Scroll down to page 4 for the coolant info
> https://www.c320.org/filemgmt_data/files/yanmar_bulletins.pdf
>
> Also available on the C320 site is a procedure for properly flushing the
> engine:
> https://c320.org/article.php/20060212151611361
>
> --
> Doug Treff
> doug at treff.us
>
> On Sun, May 23, 2021, at 6:20 PM, Jamie Pett wrote:
> > Thanks for the assistance. I am struggling mightily. Got the old heater
> > out but decided it would be the moment to drain and replace the motor
> > coolant. Got it drained but cannot find replacement Yanmar coolant -
> > anyone know where that can be found in the Annapolis area ?
> >
> >
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> >
> > Be well. Be safe. Be kind.
> >
> > R. JAMES  PETT  \ AIA
> > Principal
> >
> >  D. 410.646.8301
> > C. 410.446.8515
> > www.JP2architects.com
> > > On May 21, 2021, at 9:26 AM, Jamie Pett <JPett at jp2architects.com>
> wrote:
> > >
> > > John - Thanks for the help. Replacing the hoses sounds like a good
> idea - do you recall what length you needed ?
> > >
> > > So the heater hoses are the closed engine loop, correct ? After the
> replacement I assume you just top off the coolant ?
> > >
> > > Jamie Pett
> > > JP2 Architects
> > >
> > >> On May 12, 2021, at 9:07 AM, John Meyers <jcmeyers7 at gmail.com> wrote:
> > >>
> > >> Jame,
> > >>
> > >> One more thing.....  Keep the coolant from the hose, if you want to
> anyway,
> > >> to be replaced after the new heater is connected. There might be a
> quart or
> > >> two. Run the engine for a couple minutes and the engine coolant level
> > >> should go down so you can add the old or new coolant. This may take a
> > >> couple cycles to get all the air out of the new lines etc and to get
> the
> > >> coolant all back in.
> > >>
> > >> As far as the reattaching the rear bracket - I don't remember that
> being a
> > >> problem. As a disclaimer - "Your experience may be different."
> > >>
> > >> If I think of anything else I'll let you know.
> > >>
> > >> John Meyers
> > >>
> > >>>> On Wed, May 12, 2021 at 8:40 AM John Meyers <jcmeyers7 at gmail.com>
> wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> Jamie,
> > >>>
> > >>> I did this a couple years ago.
> > >>>
> > >>> Good on the bypass. But I disconnected the end of one hose from the
> engine
> > >>> and allowed fluid to drain into a pan. Then I took off the other
> hose from
> > >>> the engine. Putting a plastic bag over one end and punching a hole
> in the
> > >>> bag I blew out any fluid remaining.
> > >>>
> > >>> Obviously , there are some plumbing and other stuff that needs to be
> > >>> removed such as electrical.
> > >>>
> > >>> There should be enough hose between the engine and heater that when
> you
> > >>> start to pull it out and you can disconnect hoses from heater.
> > >>>
> > >>> Getting the old heater out is somewhat cumbersome with lifting and
> > >>> twisting but not a huge deal. Same for putting the new one in.
> > >>>
> > >>> While the heater was out I replaced the hoses from the engine to
> heater as
> > >>> they were over 21 years old. This was not a big problem as the cubby
> below
> > >>> the oven can be removed to give hand access to the hoses to direct
> them
> > >>> from A to B.
> > >>>
> > >>> Hope this helps.
> > >>>
> > >>> John Meyers
> > >>> Wind Chime #406
> > >>> Muskegon, MI
> > >>>
> > >>> On Tue, May 11, 2021 at 7:09 PM Jamie Pett <JPett at jp2architects.com>
> > >>> wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>>> Hi list - hope everyone is well.  So I am tackling a replacement of
> my
> > >>>> hot water heater on Bella Luna and wonder if anyone can provide a
> bit of
> > >>>> guidance. Ordered a replacement unit -same Seaward 6 ga.  that is
> currently
> > >>>> in the boat.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Pulled galley cabinet unit, tied hot and cold water lines together
> as a
> > >>>> temp.bypass, and disconnected power.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> So original Seaward 6 ga.unit largely disconnected but did not yet
> pull
> > >>>> the heat exchanger lines off.  Current question - anticipating when
> I pull
> > >>>> those the coolant from the engine will drain out ? Bigger question
> is after
> > >>>> getting the new unit connected, how do I purge the air out of the
> coolant
> > >>>> loop ?
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Oh, and any suggestions on how to get the rear mounting bracket
> > >>>> re-fastened?
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Any advice appreciated. Thanks.
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Jamie Pett
> > >>>> Bella Luna
> > >>>> C-320 # 614
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Sent from my iPad
> > >>>> R. JAMES  PETT\AIA
> > >>>> Principal
> > >>>>
> > >>>> D. 410.646.8301 C.410.446.8515
> > >>>> 2811 Dillon Street, Baltimore, MD 21224
> > >>>> E.JPett at jp2architects.com
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>> JP2 A R C H I T E C T S
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>> Be well. Be safe. Be Kind.
> > >>>>
> > >>>
> >
>
-- 
Jb