[C320-list] ENGINE FUEL PRIME
Stephen Cox
scox at timmin.com
Sat May 14 09:38:55 PDT 2022
The Racor gauge is a standard vacuum gauge with some fancy markings but all the action takes place in a very restricted area of the dial. If you are going to install such a gauge you might like to think about using the one from Dent Marine. It is a 0-15in Hg gauge compared to the Racor 0-30 in Hg. Much easier to read and generally see what is going on. See https://dentmarine.com/products/0-to-15-in-hg-vacuum-gauge-model-dm-15v
Stephen Cox
Tegwen #1141
> -----Original Message-----
> From: C320-list
> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of
> Graeme Clark
> Sent: Saturday, 14 May 2022 19:15
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] ENGINE FUEL PRIME
>
> That’s great thanks. I have just found a photo of the racor
> gauge and can see the markings as well thanks. Useful to see
> that you can get a panel mounted gauge too so a t piece
> between the filter and engine would enable a remote gauge
> which could be mounted somewhere visible when bunk mattresses
> still in place.
> Graeme
>
> Sent from my phone. Excuse typos!
>
> > On 14 May 2022, at 02:05, Jack Brennan
> <jackbrennan at bellsouth.net> wrote:
> >
> > Hi Graeme:
> >
> > I should have mentioned this earlier. I didn’t like the
> stock Racor and replaced it with a 500 model, mounted on the
> bulkhead in the port stern locker. I thought the original was
> a pain where it was mounted under the aft bunk. This gives me
> easy access and viewing.
> >
> > The gauge replaces the handle on the top of the 500. It has
> a white all-clear section, a yellow warning zone and a red
> watch-out section. I’m not at the boat, but my memory is that
> the red zone is about 10 psi and yellow is more than 5.
> >
> > I’m not sure whether you can mount this gauge on the stock
> filter. You can also mount a pressure gauge in the fuel line
> between the filter and the fuel pump, if you choose to keep
> the original Racor.
> >
> > Jack Brennan
> > Sonas, 1998 Catalina 320
> > Tierra Verde, Fl.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Sent from Mail for Windows
> >
> > From: Graeme Clark
> > Sent: Friday, May 13, 2022 7:53 PM
> > To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] ENGINE FUEL PRIME
> >
> > Can anyone who installed a vacuum gauge expand on that.
> Which gauge, what sort of range should it display and at what
> reading does it indicate blockage?
> > Thanks
> > Graeme
> >
> > Sent from my iPad
> >
> >> On 13 May 2022, at 16:35, Jeff Smith
> <svsailmates512 at gmail.com> wrote:
> >>
> >> I can confirm the vacuum gauge is nice. My boat has a
> dual Racer system. If I notice my vacuum getting into the
> red, I immediately switch to the secondary Racor. My boat
> also has the shut-off prior to the Racor. One thing I added
> was an electric fuel pump between the fuel tank and the
> Razor. I did this to assist with bleeding the fuel system
> after filter changes. It is better than using either the
> Razor plunger or the lift pump to bleed the system.
> >>
> >> Jeff Smith
> >>
> >>
> >>>> On May 13, 2022, at 11:21 AM, RONALD HODEL
> <ronandgail2 at me.com> wrote:
> >>>
> >>> I love all the advice and ideas. One thing I did was put
> a fuel shut off valve right before the racor filter. That way
> I don’t have to dive down to the fuel tank to turn off the
> fuel before changing the racor filter. (It just may be that I
> learned that the hard way).
> >>>
> >>> Ron Hodel
> >>> 1070 Lokomaikai
> >>>
> >>> Sent from my iPad
> >>>
> >>>>> On May 13, 2022, at 7:14 AM, Jeff Hare
> <Catalina at thehares.com> wrote:
> >>>>
> >>>> Troy,
> >>>>
> >>>> That's a really good list. There's an alternative to #2
> which we did for 20 years in Woodbine.
> >>>>
> >>>> We always ran an R15S filter in the primary Racor and
> the Yanmar recommended 10u(?) engine mounted filter and
> changed the Racor every year.
> >>>>
> >>>> The R15S is a 2u filter. If you end up with a clogged
> filter, you can be fairly certain that you only need to
> change the Racor to get running again. The engine mounted
> filter is intended to be a safety for anything that slips by
> the primary Racor during fuel line servicing or primary
> filter change that would be damaging to the injectors. The
> tech from Mac Boring and our local Yanmar
> dealer/installer/mechanic at Merri-Mar both explained the
> same thing to me independently back when we bought our boat.
> >>>>
> >>>> Instead, if you follow the old-timer's advice of going
> with 15u or 30u filters in the Racor, followed by the stock
> Yanmar engine filter, you can be fairly certain that if you
> ever get a clogged filter, you'll have to change both the
> engine and the Racor filters. Filters don't tend to clog at
> the dock, so that's a lot more work underway and probably in
> unkind conditions. You could also find that the engine filter
> (having so much less surface area) will get fully clogged
> well before the Racor and you still wouldn't know for sure
> whether you needed to change the Racor as well or not.
> >>>>
> >>>> The R15S filter allows a much higher fuel flow rate than
> the fuel pump can move anyway, so there's little concern of
> starving the system. Using this approach, we changed the
> Racor every season and only changed the engine mounted filter
> every 3 or 4 years and the one we removed appeared just as
> clean as the one we removed. The Racor was always discolored
> when changed. In a large Diesel that moves a ton of fuel,
> this could be more of an issue.
> >>>>
> >>>> We also installed a shutoff valve at the outflow side of
> the Racor so that we could isolate the Racor when changing it
> and minimize the chance of getting debris in the line during
> the change and make it far easier to bleed. Anything that did
> get in the line during that would either be stopped by the
> engine filter or is small enough to safely pass.
> >>>>
> >>>> That's worked flawlessly for us for 20 years owning Woodbine.
> >>>>
> >>>> One thing we had considered was putting an inline vacuum
> gauge between the Racor and the fuel pump to get a better
> sense of when the filter needed to be changed, but a bright
> flashlight through the clear bowl has worked well enough (but
> decidedly unscientific). Just something I never got around to
> and never actually needed.
> >>>>
> >>>> -Jeff Hare
> >>>>
> >>>>
> >>>> -----Original Message-----
> >>>> From: C320-list
> <c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com> On Behalf
> >>>> Of Troy Dunn
> >>>> Sent: Monday, May 9, 2022 7:45 PM
> >>>> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> >>>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] ENGINE FUEL PRIME
> >>>>
> >>>> John-
> >>>>
> >>>> Free advice in no particular order.
> >>>>
> >>>> 1) There are copper crush washers between all the banjo
> fittings. These
> >>>> are super cheap and throw away. Attempting to reuse
> and/or tighten them
> >>>> down rarely works out, or if it does only for a little while.
> >>>>
> >>>> 2) Change the smaller filter on the engine once a year.
> Is it 100%
> >>>> necessary, no but it's super cheap and super easy. Do
> not attempt to reuse
> >>>> the oring. Seat the filter by hand then just gently
> put the oring and
> >>>> filter housing in place, tighten that little band by
> hand and then gently (very gently) tap the band home with a
> flathead acrewdriver. You just need to snug it up, do not
> over tighten.
> >>>>
> >>>> 3) bleed seal is a nylon like material. It is reusable
> so long as you
> >>>> simply get it snug and then gently 'nip' it a fraction
> of a turn like maybe a tenth of a turn. Overtightening will
> turn that seal into a once and done
> >>>> as well. Definitely replace it this time since you
> probably don’t know
> >>>> how it was abused in the past.
> >>>>
> >>>> 4)I’m a tad concerned that you are losing as much prime
> as you are and that you aren’t finding diesel somewhere on
> your engine or in your engines
> >>>> special little self contained bilge area. The fact
> that you hear air
> >>>> escaping is not a good sign. Are you sure it isn’t the
> diesel return line
> >>>> you hear? Probably not since you are saying the noise
> is on the starboard
> >>>> side. The fuel filter is a good candidate for leaks
> but generally it
> >>>> will be very ‘oily’ with diesel and should drip
> noticeable. Another item
> >>>> that can leak is the fuel lift pump. There are two
> possible mechanisms at
> >>>> play. There is a diaphragm that can leak at the seal.
> Check that for
> >>>> sure. It’s easy to simply replace the lift pump. The
> lift pump diaphragm can also fail and that can be bad news
> because it could potentially be
> >>>> leaking fuel into your engine. I think you can check
> the oil to see if it
> >>>> looks funny. If it does look funny, I’d get a real diesel
> >>>> mechanic involved. You can easily replace the lift pump and
> >>>> contaminated oil but I have no idea how one 'rinses' out
> the engine
> >>>> of fuel contaminated dirty oil…
> >>>>
> >>>> Good Luck
> >>>>
> >>>> Troy Dunn
> >>>> Hull #514
> >>>>
> >>
> >
> >
>
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