[C320-list] Rig Tension?

wdoc1 at aol.com wdoc1 at aol.com
Sat May 21 03:44:20 PDT 2022


Trying to optimize my boat's set-up for some club racing, and have noticed different upwind pointing ability/boat speed on port vs starboard tack. Using the association's loaner Loos P2 and P3 gauges, I have confirmed that the rig tension is off, with each stay's tension differing side-to-side and also differing from those listed in the 2004 C320 association article below by Mark Yeager. 

Questions:1.  There is already a "toggle" under the roller furling drum on the forestay, but I do not have an adjustable backstay...not sure I'm ready to take this on or how I would use it...thoughts?2.  Anyone got contact info for Mark Yeager?3.  In the 18 years since this article was written has anyone come up with different settings? Are these settings applicable if there's not an adjustable backstay?
              Cap stays-PT-3 gauge18    
              D1 forward stays-PT-2 gauge 31
              D1 aft stays-PT-2 gauge 16
              D2 stays-PT-2 gauge 18.5

Thanks in advance!
Bill McConnellDIVERSION, #714Middle River, MD

>From the C320 Association website:

Rig Tune and Sail Selection
   
   - by Anonymous 
   - Saturday, August 28 2004 @ 08:34 PM EDT
  Views: 15,677   Posted in Technical Articles   
   - 
   RIG TUNE AND SAIL SELECTION FOR CATALINA 320

Mark Yeager
Quantum Sails-Dallas .....
Now that we've got that little disclaimer out of the way, let's get down to it. The 320 has the
ability to go upwind well, but not out of the box. It needs a little bit of help from its friends. First
the forestay needs to be a little longer than it is. The addition of a toggle under the roller furling
unit will provide you with the needed extra distance. What this does is rake the mast slightly aft,
moving the center of effort with it. When finished, the backstay turnbuckles should be all the way
down and you should be able to swing the forestay in about a one-foot diameter circle at chest
height standing on foredeck with a moderate amount of effort. (This is done with the backstay
adjuster eased all the way.) I know it would be better if I could give you a pin-to-pin dimension
for the forestay, but I don't have one. Most 320's come delivered and commissioned from the
dealers with a "rock-hard" forestay and backstay. I've never run across one that was any different.
While the hard forestay is ok for heavy air sailing, it won't cut it for light air. I think most of you
already know that. So what the toggle installation accomplishes is two-fold. It rakes the mast
slightly and at the same time, softens the forestay.

Now for the sidestay tensions. These I can give you hard numbers for, but you're going to have to
buy two tuning gauges to do it yourself. One will not do it because of your wire sizes. For the cap
stays (the ones running from the deck to the top of the mast) you will need a Loos PT-3 gauge.
For all the other stays you will need a Loos PT-2. Do NOT attempt to use the same gauge on all
of them. You'll get it wrong. (Update of 8/28/04) The PT-3 is built to measure all three sizes of
shrouds found on the 320, but the tension readings for the D2's and D1 laftstays are off the
bottom end of the scale and cannot be used. Several of you have asked about this.)


Cap stays-PT-3 gauge18
D1 forward stays-PT-2 gauge 31
D1 aft stays-PT-2 gauge 16
D2 stays-PT-2 gauge 18.5

In order of tightness, the cap stays are always the tightest, the D1 forwards are next, and the D1
aft and D2's are the loosest. What we've done here is put a little bit of pre-bend in the mast by
tightening the forward D1's more than the aft ones. 

Now that we've got the front end and the sides done, it's time to install a backstay adjuster,
which is mandatory after loosening up the forestay as much as we have. This can be done very
inexpensively and without ever drilling a hole anywhere in the deck. What you do is replace one
of the lower clevis pins on the backstay turnbuckles with a 3/8" shackle about an inch to an inch
and a half long. The shackle needs to be an inch or so long, not the pin. The jaws of the shackle
only need to be wide enough to fit around the toggle of the turnbuckle.


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