[C320-list] C320-list Digest, Vol 4243, Issue 1

Sat May 21 15:06:12 PDT 2022

Jeff:  The link to the image you sent did not work. They look like this.  

https://www.garhauermarine.com/shop/track-blocks-accessories-mast-boom-blocks-hardware/track-car-rope-clutches/track-car-rope-clutch-11-11-oc/

Sara
Wandering Star

Sent from my iPhone

> On May 21, 2022, at 1:01 PM, c320-list-request at lists.catalina320.com wrote:
> 
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> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Wiring question (Jack Brennan)
>   2. Good stuffing box trick (Jack Brennan)
>   3. Re: Rope Clutch (Jeff Hare)
>   4. Rig Tension? (wdoc1 at aol.com)
>   5. Re: Wiring question (kskis at aol.com)
>   6. Pedestal guard replacement (Cheryl Dahl)
>   7. Re: Pedestal guard replacement (Graeme Clark)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Fri, 20 May 2022 20:33:05 -0400
> From: Jack Brennan <jackbrennan at bellsouth.net>
> To: "C320-List at Catalina320.com" <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> Subject: [C320-list] Wiring question
> Message-ID: <785950839.894057.1653093188994 at bellsouth.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> So I?ve developed a short in my running lights wiring. Even with the lights themselves disconnected, turning on the breaker drains the battery bank until the breaker button pops. The other instruments on the breaker work fine.
> 
> The wires for the running lights are old, crappy and untinned, so they need to be replaced. I?m not looking forward to running the new wires through the pulpits, but I have a good idea of how to do it.
> 
> My question is this:
> 
> The wires from the breaker and the negative buss are tinned and disappear into the holes behind the breaker panel, down behind the chart table. I?m assuming there?s a wiring harness down there that connects the crappy old wires to the tinned ones.
> 
> But, but  . . .  how do I get to the harness? 
> 
> My plan B is to run the new wires to buss bars somewhere accessible, but it seems like there should be a way to do it proper and  use the original connection point.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Jack Brennan
> Sonas, 1998 Catalina 320
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 2
> Date: Fri, 20 May 2022 20:55:05 -0400
> From: Jack Brennan <jackbrennan at bellsouth.net>
> To: "C320-List at Catalina320.com" <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> Subject: [C320-list] Good stuffing box trick
> Message-ID: <1541397929.898406.1653094512185 at bellsouth.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Here?s a good stuffing box trick I learned recently from the diesel guru at Boot Key Harbor in Marathon, Fl..
> 
> I hired him to help me change the packing, seeing as the 320 is the first sailboat I?ve owned in which I could actually access the stuffing box with my 215-pound body. 
> 
> We used the Goretex packing. What he did was dip the packing liberally into a jar of waterproof axle grease before inserting it into the nut. What a difference. The shaft turned more easily and, just as important, six weeks and many hours later, I get a drip or two a minute. The stuffing box is cool to the touch after a good motoring. 
> 
> It?s very possible that the boat yard just did a lousy job when it replaced the packing a couple of years ago. I always had too many drips, and re-adjustments would last only a short time before I had to tinker with it again.  But still ?
> 
> Also, for the record, my stuffing box took 3/16, not quarter-inch, packing. The water leak was easily handled by my 800-gph bilge pump. If you?re worried about it, an old bicycle tube can be wrapped around the shaft to slow the leak to a dribble. 
> 
> Hopefully, I won?t have to do it again for several years, but it is now a DIY project.
> 
> Jack Brennan
> Sonas, 1998 Catalina 320
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Fri, 20 May 2022 18:00:35 -0700
> From: Jeff Hare <Catalina at thehares.com>
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Rope Clutch
> Message-ID: <1653094848393.515dc4f85b595936 at thehares.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
> 
> Did you connect Garhauer?? I think you can repair these pretty easily.??So yours look like these?https://www.garhauermarine.com/product-category/deck-blocks-hardware-mast-boom-blocks-hardware/rope-clutches/Jeff Hare
> -------- Original message --------From: SARA SCHROEDER <saras951 at comcast.net> Date: 5/20/22  10:37 AM  (GMT-08:00) To: C320-list at catalina320.com Subject: [C320-list] Rope Clutch After installing a new mail halyard, I have determined that the reason my main "slips" after being raised is that the rope clutch is failing.? I called the manufacturer and they do not make internal rebuild kits so I am looking at a new one. Since the three on starboard get the most use (main/reef/vang) I think I will just replace all three.? Port side seems fine for now. The question is this: Is there a backing plate that is tapped for screws on the cabin house?? If not, how do you replace them?Thanks!SaraWandering Star2000/#707Seattle 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 4
> Date: Sat, 21 May 2022 10:44:20 +0000 (UTC)
> From: wdoc1 at aol.com
> To: "C320-List at Catalina320.com" <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> Subject: [C320-list] Rig Tension?
> Message-ID: <1283479763.848566.1653129860173 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> 
> Trying to optimize my boat's set-up for some club racing, and have noticed different upwind pointing ability/boat speed on port vs starboard tack. Using the association's loaner Loos P2 and P3 gauges, I have confirmed that the rig tension is off, with each stay's tension differing side-to-side and also differing from those listed in the?2004 C320 association article below by Mark Yeager.?
> 
> Questions:1. ?There is already a "toggle" under the roller furling?drum on the forestay, but I do not have an adjustable backstay...not sure I'm ready to take this on or how I would use it...thoughts?2. ?Anyone got contact info for Mark Yeager?3. ?In the 18 years since this article was written has anyone come up with different settings? Are these settings applicable if there's not an adjustable backstay?
> ? ? ? ? ? ? ? Cap stays-PT-3 gauge18 ? ?
> ? ? ? ? ? ? ? D1 forward stays-PT-2 gauge 31
> ? ? ? ? ? ? ? D1 aft stays-PT-2 gauge 16
> ? ? ? ? ? ? ? D2 stays-PT-2 gauge 18.5
> 
> Thanks in advance!
> Bill McConnellDIVERSION, #714Middle River, MD
> 
>> From the C320 Association website:
> 
> Rig Tune and Sail Selection
> 
>   - by?Anonymous?
>   - Saturday, August 28 2004 @ 08:34 PM EDT
> ? Views: 15,677 ? Posted in?Technical Articles   
>   - 
> ?  RIG TUNE AND SAIL SELECTION FOR CATALINA 320
> 
> Mark Yeager
> Quantum Sails-Dallas?.....
> Now that we've got that little disclaimer out of the way, let's get down to it. The 320 has the
> ability to go upwind well, but not out of the box. It needs a little bit of help from its friends. First
> the forestay needs to be a little longer than it is. The addition of a toggle under the roller furling
> unit will provide you with the needed extra distance. What this does is rake the mast slightly aft,
> moving the center of effort with it. When finished, the backstay turnbuckles should be all the way
> down and you should be able to swing the forestay in about a one-foot diameter circle at chest
> height standing on foredeck with a moderate amount of effort. (This is done with the backstay
> adjuster eased all the way.) I know it would be better if I could give you a pin-to-pin dimension
> for the forestay, but I don't have one. Most 320's come delivered and commissioned from the
> dealers with a "rock-hard" forestay and backstay. I've never run across one that was any different.
> While the hard forestay is ok for heavy air sailing, it won't cut it for light air. I think most of you
> already know that. So what the toggle installation accomplishes is two-fold. It rakes the mast
> slightly and at the same time, softens the forestay.
> 
> Now for the sidestay tensions. These I can give you hard numbers for, but you're going to have to
> buy two tuning gauges to do it yourself. One will not do it because of your wire sizes. For the cap
> stays (the ones running from the deck to the top of the mast) you will need a Loos PT-3 gauge.
> For all the other stays you will need a Loos PT-2. Do NOT attempt to use the same gauge on all
> of them. You'll get it wrong. (Update of 8/28/04) The PT-3 is built to measure all three sizes of
> shrouds found on the 320, but the tension readings for the D2's and D1 laftstays are off the
> bottom end of the scale and cannot be used. Several of you have asked about this.)
> 
> 
> Cap stays-PT-3 gauge18
> D1 forward stays-PT-2 gauge 31
> D1 aft stays-PT-2 gauge 16
> D2 stays-PT-2 gauge 18.5
> 
> In order of tightness, the cap stays are always the tightest, the D1 forwards are next, and the D1
> aft and D2's are the loosest. What we've done here is put a little bit of pre-bend in the mast by
> tightening the forward D1's more than the aft ones.?
> 
> Now that we've got the front end and the sides done, it's time to install a backstay adjuster,
> which is mandatory after loosening up the forestay as much as we have. This can be done very
> inexpensively and without ever drilling a hole anywhere in the deck. What you do is replace one
> of the lower clevis pins on the backstay turnbuckles with a 3/8" shackle about an inch to an inch
> and a half long. The shackle needs to be an inch or so long, not the pin. The jaws of the shackle
> only need to be wide enough to fit around the toggle of the turnbuckle.
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 5
> Date: Sat, 21 May 2022 13:33:20 +0000 (UTC)
> From: kskis at aol.com
> To: "C320-List at Catalina320.com" <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Wiring question
> Message-ID: <847037437.859690.1653140000266 at mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8
> 
> Jack:? You are obviously more knowledgeable than me on this electrical stuff.? If you haven't already checked for the "easy" (and probably obvious to many others but me) possible fixes.? I once lost power to some of my instruments and was able to trace it to a number of loose negative screws in the electrical panel.? Tightened up and everything now works great.? Since yours drains the battery might not be the same thing.? Neil Kornblatt, Harmony #963
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Jack Brennan <jackbrennan at bellsouth.net>
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> Sent: Fri, May 20, 2022 8:33 pm
> Subject: [C320-list] Wiring question
> 
> So I?ve developed a short in my running lights wiring. Even with the lights themselves disconnected, turning on the breaker drains the battery bank until the breaker button pops. The other instruments on the breaker work fine.
> 
> The wires for the running lights are old, crappy and untinned, so they need to be replaced. I?m not looking forward to running the new wires through the pulpits, but I have a good idea of how to do it.
> 
> My question is this:
> 
> The wires from the breaker and the negative buss are tinned and disappear into the holes behind the breaker panel, down behind the chart table. I?m assuming there?s a wiring harness down there that connects the crappy old wires to the tinned ones.
> 
> But, but? . . .? how do I get to the harness? 
> 
> My plan B is to run the new wires to buss bars somewhere accessible, but it seems like there should be a way to do it proper and? use the original connection point.
> 
> Any ideas?
> 
> Jack Brennan
> Sonas, 1998 Catalina 320
> Tierra Verde, Fl.
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Sent from Mail for Windows
> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 6
> Date: Sat, 21 May 2022 11:17:00 -0700
> From: Cheryl Dahl <dahls2017 at gmail.com>
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: [C320-list] Pedestal guard replacement
> Message-ID:
>    <CANYZm4hzmC2qDB0X_Efg1yGt9+fagXNSD31HiCg90CLCG4kFGw at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8"
> 
> Hello everyone,
> I am replacing all my original electronics and navpod on my boat .
> I purchased a new angled pedestal guard and larger navpod from defender and
> have mounted the new instruments and chart plotter. I also purchased the
> new mounting feet for the pedestal guard from CD .
> I haven?t yet attempted to remove the old guard yet. It looks like it will
> come out by removing the two set screws and sliding it up . Does anyone in
> the group have experience with this ? I am a newer 320 owner and group
> member.
> I enjoy reading all the discussions and advice.
> Thanks
> Steve Dahl
> #412
> Sans Souci
> 
>> On Wed, May 11, 2022 at 9:22 AM Mark Cole <boatnboot at me.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Dave;
>> 
>> Two different gauges are ok. The light gauge is just the switch leg. The
>> heavy gauge is the power leg. There is much less current running through
>> the switch leg.
>> 
>> Mark
>> Fiddler?s Green #8
>> Sent from my iPad
>> 
>>>> On May 11, 2022, at 9:10 AM, David Prudden <dprudden at comcast.net> wrote:
>>> 
>>> ?I?m in the process of replacing the float switch in the bilge. The wire
>> that comes with the new switch (and the wire in the dead switch) are 14
>> gauge wire but the pump wiring I think is 8 gauge. Is this ok to have 2
>> different sizes?? I always thought they had to be the same size.
>>> 
>>> Thanks,
>>> David Prudden
>>> #787, Teachers Pet II
>>> 
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>> 
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 7
> Date: Sat, 21 May 2022 20:30:42 +0100
> From: Graeme Clark <cg at skyflyer.co.uk>
> To: Catalina list <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Pedestal guard replacement
> Message-ID: <C0526241-39AE-427C-B311-4AD44F928291 at skyflyer.co.uk>
> Content-Type: text/plain;    charset=utf-8
> 
> Steve
> 
> Correct -  the screws fit into holes in the bottom of the guard. Once fully removed it will slide up. Possibly any excess sealant etc will make it hard to get started of course. Obviously your old instrumentation and power wires will be running down through the guard.  The mounting feet can then be removed and are secured with screws into the deck
> 
> Graeme Clark
> 
> 
>> On 21 May 2022, at 19:17, Cheryl Dahl <dahls2017 at gmail.com> wrote:
>> 
>> Hello everyone,
>> I am replacing all my original electronics and navpod on my boat .
>> I purchased a new angled pedestal guard and larger navpod from defender and
>> have mounted the new instruments and chart plotter. I also purchased the
>> new mounting feet for the pedestal guard from CD .
>> I haven?t yet attempted to remove the old guard yet. It looks like it will
>> come out by removing the two set screws and sliding it up . Does anyone in
>> the group have experience with this ? I am a newer 320 owner and group
>> member.
>> I enjoy reading all the discussions and advice.
>> Thanks
>> Steve Dahl
>> #412
>> Sans Souci
> 
> 
> End of C320-list Digest, Vol 4243, Issue 1
> ******************************************