[C320-list] Yanmar 3GM issues

[Louis Friedman]

will take all advice into account, thanks all!  update - went back to take
a look at the fitting to fuel filter and found it's still got a slow leak -
I suppose the reason I need to pump the lift pump to start the engine. see
nut in picture.  previous posts mentioned the crush washer underneath the
nut needs replacing?  If so, where do I get these? then to replace would
need to shut off fuel upstream ?

Lou
#623

On Tue, Jul 30, 2024 at 2:49 PM KEN GEIGER <kendgb at aol.com> wrote:

> I don't know what is inside the mechanical fuel lift pump, but it looks
> like a diaphragm pump and the diaphragms do harden and fail.  Check it out,
> rebuild with new diaphragm or replace then rebuild and you have a spare.
>
> Ken Geiger
> #765
>
> Sent from AOL on Android
> <https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=com.aol.mobile.aolapp>
>
> On Tue, Jul 30, 2024 at 2:11 p.m., Doug Treff via C320-list
> <c320-list at lists.catalina320.com> wrote:
> These are great boats. Once you get through these maintenance issues,
> you'll love it. Mine is a 1996 and I have very few problems.
>
> I suspect there may be a leak somewhere (maybe the bleed screw) that
> allows air in the lines. My engine starts very fast. Your symptom
> definitely points to a fuel delivery issue of some kind.
>
> --
> Doug Treff
> doug at treff.us
>
>
> On Tue, Jul 30, 2024, at 11:25 AM, Louis Friedman wrote:
> > Thanks for the tip Doug. I did use those oil sorb pads, worked quite
> well. The engine stars better now but I find I still need to pump the
> butterfly pump about 40 times to get it going. there must be another leak
> of some kind somewhere. At this point I'm dealing with a steering issue
> though so I'll get back to the engine later.  thinking now I should have
> bought a newer boat!
> >
> > On Tue, Jul 30, 2024 at 10:52 AM Doug Treff <doug at treff.us> wrote:
> >> Lou,
> >>
> >> I had a similar problem when I bought my boat. Turns out the filter
> housing is aluminum and the bleed bolt is SS. At some point, a previous
> owner or mechanic overtightened the bolt and damaged the threads in the
> filter housing. Ultimately, I had to replace the housing. Was not the
> cheapest repair, but it did the trick.
> >>
> >> And as others have mentioned, the copper crush washers do occasionally
> need to be replaced after several bleeding procedures. I keep a supply of
> them on board and every couple of years when I change filters and bleed the
> system, I'll replace the ones I disturb with fresh ones. They don't
> randomly start leaking - it's usually when they are loosened and tightened
> again (disturbed) that they start to leak.
> >>
> >> As for cleanup, get some of the oil-zorb pads and put them in your
> bilge to soak up the diesel. I have found that simple green is a great
> cleanup solution for oil and diesel after you've discarded the soaked
> oil-zorb pads.
> >>
> >> --
> >> Doug Treff
> >> doug at treff.us
> >>
> >> On Tue, Jul 16, 2024, at 8:42 AM, Louis Friedman via C320-list wrote:
> >> > thanks all.  I recruited someone more experienced than me at out
> club(not
> >> > hard to do!) and it turned out to be a loose nut at the point the
> fuel hose
> >> > enters the secondary fuel filter.  Seems to be running good now but I
> need
> >> > to clean up a pile of diesel fuel today!
> >> >
> >> > Lou
> >
> >
>
> >
> >
> >
>
>

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