[C320-list] Comments on older C320 "floors"

[amshd2 at aol.com]

Jon
 
I have hull#30.  I refinished the sole last winter.  My table base came off with out any effort.
 
I took the whole sole home and first stripped it using Dads stripper and a plastic scraper Dads is the best chemical stripper I have ever used stuff worked great.  This really helped to make the job go much faster and left a great surface to work with.  I used the cleaner that comes from Ultimate Sole to clean the sole before and after sanding.  I also used wood bleach to get out most of the black stain around the screw holes.  And yes be careful not to send to hard.
 
I used the Ultimate Sole product.  It came out great easy to put on with little to no sanding between coats. The stuff also dry's fast.  I could not believe how great it came out.  The stuff has a anti slip agent in it and it does work.   The guys at Ultimate Sole were great to work with I called them a couple of times and got some great pointers.   
 
Now 2-3 people in my marina are going to use the stuff. 
 
I highly  recommend the stuff. 
 
 
Tony 
   
 
 
-----Original Message-----
From: jonvez at comcast.net
To: c320-list at catalina320.com
Sent: Sat, 30 Dec 2006 7:35 PM
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Comments on older C320 "floors"


Thanks Bill...greatly appreciate it! Didn't know what was on the other side of 
those bolts....

Regards,

Jon

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Bill Culbertson <billculb_a2 at yahoo.com> 

> Jon, 
> 
> Just remove the six largeish screws encircling the conical base of the table 
and 
> lift the whole thing out. I sent you 3 photos offline from when did this two 
> years ago. I took all the floor pieces home so that Kathy could refinish them. 

> 
> -bill 
> 
> 
> ----- Original Message ---- 
> From: "jonvez at comcast.net" 
> To: C320-List 
> Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 7:48:27 AM 
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Comments on older C320 "floors" 
> 
> 
> For those who have removed the base of the table, are there any tips or 
tricks? 
> I want to pull of my floor boards but have avoided this area as I haven't been 

> able to determine the best way to get the base off...Thanks in advance... 
> 
> Regards, 
> 
> Jon Vez 
> 
> -------------- Original message -------------- 
> From: "Warren Updike" 
> 
> > In this context, I use the word "floor" to mean that area under the sole 
while 
> > the wood surface that is walked on is, well, the cabin sole. I learned this 
> > somewhre, I forget where. Anyway, last winter I removed the entire sole to 
> > refinish it at home. This gave an excellent opportunity to check all the 
bilge 
> > spaces in the "floor." 
> > 
> > As our #62 is among the oldest C320s, I can't say when the floor/sole design 

> > changed; but, change it did. I used the diagram obtained from the document 
on 
> > our website, and marked all the places where there is a drain from one space 

> to 
> > another, and each of the rubber plugs in the stringers. 
> > 
> > For those who have the new floor/sole, On "Warr De Mar," after removing the 
> > wood sole, there are a number of bilge spaces created by the stringers that 
> run 
> > athwart-ship. Some are enclosed by fore-aft plates epoxied between the 
> > stringers. Some of these "bilges" or chambers have a tube or limber hole to 
> > drain into the next bilge space. Some do not. The plugs in the stringers are 

> > after-market mods to allow any water to be drained from within the 
stringers. 
> > 
> > The speedo on these olders hulls is directly under the 2-drawer cabinet in 
the 
> > V-berth. To remove it, I pull the cabinet to get close to reasonable access 
to 
> > the speedo. Even so, it is so unwieldy working in this space that fully one 
or 
> > two cups of water invariably enter the boat. So, before I undertake to 
remove 
> > the speedo, I first plug and tape the drain tube to the next bilge space 
then 
> > remove the accumulated water when I'm done. If any moves past the taped 
plug, 
> > it goes into the space under the sole in the V-berth and then into the space 

> > immediately aft of the bulkhead. That space has no drain pipe. I find it 
> > necessary to pull that part of the sole to check. 
> > 
> > Under the table in the salon, behind the mast, there are two bilge spaces 
that 
> > have no drain and no plug in the stringer. Before I refinished the sole, 
there 
> > was water in there forever that contributed to the buildup of mildew under 
the 
> > sole. The mildew had migrated into the wood of the sole and runined the 
finish 
> > hence the refinishing of the sole. But, that's anothe story. Now, we check 
> > this space twice a year by pulling the table out with the base on and 
viewing 
> in 
> > the bilge space. This fall, we found about a cup of water between the two 
> space 
> > with no clue to it's source. 
> > 
> > Between the bilge space with the pump immediately fwd of the galley deck on 
> > centerline, there is a plug in the fwd-aft place separating this space and 
the 
> > one to port that is between the galley space and the pump space. The way 
this 
> > hole was drilled through the fillets, it opened access to the space between 
> the 
> > stringers. No matter how I try, I don't seem to be able to make this 
> > water-tight with the rubber plug. Next spring I plan to tape it with outdoor 

> > duct tape. I intend to keep bilge water in the bilge. If anyone has a 
similar 
> > experience and can offer a better solution, I surely would appreciate 
hearing 
> > it. 
> > 
> > Now, if I can get a few consecutive days of stay-at-home weather, I'll post 
my 
> > sole refinish story on the 320 website along with the Hurth Shop Manual that 

> > covers all of the Hurth gears. 
> > 
> > Warren & Pattie Updike 
> > C320, #62, 1994, "Warr De Mar" 
> > Frog Mortar Creek, Middle River 
> > Chesapeake Bay 
> 
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