[C320-list] (no subject)

hcreech at comcast.net hcreech at comcast.net
Mon Mar 13 10:19:56 PST 2006


Scott,
Wow, Thanks!

Herb Creech



 -------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Scott Thompson <sthompson at toad.net>
> Herb:  Are you saying that the line piled up at the top even when you 
> were leading it in from below a line perpendicular to the center of the 
> drum?  I don't see how that could happen unless the line is badly 
> twisted somehow.  If it's piling up only at the top then you almost 
> certainly still have a lead angle problem, and I encourage you to check 
> the lead angle directly.  Some boats have the last lead mounted on the 
> forward upright on the pulpit while others have the last lead on the aft 
> most upright of the pulpit.  Have you tried switching to the forward 
> upright?
> 
> I can't speak for whether 20 feet is the right amount to strip or not, 
> but to strip core from the last twenty feet of a polyester double braid 
> such as Staset, do the following easy steps:
> 
> 1)  Remove the line from the furler and tie a knot about 22 feet from 
> the end in order to temporaily lock the core and cover together at this 
> point.
> 
> 2)  Cut off a very small piece of the bitter end, if necessary, to 
> unbind the core from the cover at that end.
> 
> 3)  About two feet from your stopper knot (20 feet from the bitter end) 
> make a sharp bend in the line and then use a sharp object to carefully 
> work apart the strands of the cover, exposing the core.  Carefully 
> extract a loop of the core through this hole, then carefully pull out 
> the entire twenty feet of core from the end.  Be careful not to damage 
> the cover when you do this.  You want to leave the cover as undisturbed 
> as possible.  Take it slow.
> 
> 4)  Now would be a good time to reburn or whip the end of the cover to 
> prevent it from unravelling.
> 
> 5.  Smooth out the cover over the core, starting from the knot and 
> working towards the bitter end.  Mark the core where it emerges from the 
> cover.
> 
> 6.  Bunch the cover back toward the knot so that your mark on the core 
> emerges almost two feet out of the cover.  From the mark, measure back 
> another two inches on the core towards the knot and make a second mark. 
>   This is where you should cut the core.  Go ahead and cut it.
> 
> 7.  You now have a short tail of core emerging from the bunched up 
> cover.  When you  eventually smooth the cover away from the knot again 
> this tail will disappear inside the cover.  Before you do that, taper 
> the last six inches of the core while you still can.  There are 
> different ways to do this, but one that is fairly easy and good enough 
> for this application is to simply unravel the last 4-6 inches and then 
> prune away at an angle so that some strands are still at the original 
> length and others are shorter.  Your goal here is to avoid sudden 
> changes in the bulkiness of the core in the transition zone.
> 
> 8.  Once you've made your taper, smooth the bunched up cover away from 
> the knot until the tapered end of the core disappears entirely into the 
> hole you made in step 3.  Smooth out the entire line away from the knot.
> 
> 9.  You should now have at least 1 foot of line still fully intact near 
> the knot, then a tapered part of the core hidden inside the cover, then 
> the empty part of the cover.  Stitch back and forth a few times through 
> cover and core near your knot to lock them together.  Use some good 
> waxed polyester thread or whipping twine for this.  (Obviously you want 
> to miss the tapered part of the core when you do this.)  A stitched 
> through whipping will also do the trick.
> 
> 10.  Untie the knot, reattach the end of the stripped cover to the 
> furler and go sailing.
> 
> Warning:  If you strip 20 feet of core you will end up with considerably 
> more than 20 feet of "empty" cover because the cover will stretch out 
> once it loses the internal bulk provided by the core.  Because of this, 
> you may have to shorten the empty cover somewhat in order to make sure 
> that the part of the line that loads up has sufficient core for the 
> needed strength.  Trial and error is called for here.  Also, some high 
> tech lines have all the strength in the core and almost none in the 
> cover.  Be cautious about stripping core from such a line.  You can 
> strip the cover intead, but that's a more difficult job.
> 
> hcreech at comcast.net wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > 
> >  -------------- Original message ----------------------
> > From: Scott Thompson <sthompson at toad.net>
> >> You need to carefully check the lead angle.  The lead should be 
> >> perpendicular to the drum and straight into the middle while you are 
> >> unfurling the sail.  You need to check it in actual use, not just 
> >> sitting at the dock.  Most likely you need to move the last block lower 
> >> still, or further forward, or both.  Where is yours attached?  In 
> >> looking at various pictures on the web site, it appears that there is 
> >> not necessarily any uniformity in how dealers or owners have set up the 
> >> furler turning blocks.
> >>
> >> One general trick for "piling up" that I haven't tried, but that has 
> >> been suggested to me, is to remove the core from the first part of the 
> >> furling line that sits on the drum.  This part of the line shouldn't 
> >> come into play except when the sail is completely furled so that you are 
> >> only winding the jib sheet around the furled sail, so it doesn't have to 
> >> be as strong.  When the sail is deployed it is covered by many turns of 
> >> line that take most of the load.  By removing the core you can get those 
> >> first turns on the drum to lie flatter, leaving more room for the rest 
> >> of the line.  Of course this will not solve your problem if the issue is 
> >> piling at the top of the drum rather than piling up more generally.
> >>
> >> If I were to try this trick, I would taper the core so that I didn't end 
> >> up with a hard spot in the line at the transition, and I would stitch 
> >> through the transitional area to keep the end of the core in place 
> >> inside the cover.)
> >>
> >> Scott Thompson
> >>
> >> hcreech at comcast.net wrote:
> >>> I'm getting Cloud Chaser ready for her 8th season, hard to believe.  it's 
> also 
> >> amazing how good she looks for that period of time.
> >>> Last season I fougt with the roller furling line piling at the top of the 
> >> drum.  I tried everything, called Sheaffer for suggestions. I lowered the 
> block 
> >> all the way to the deck, adjusted headstay and backstay tension. Although it 
> did 
> >> not eliminated the problem it did get better, it piles up at the very end if 
> I'm 
> >> careful to keep tension on the line.  With no tension it piles up 
> immediately.
> >>> My question is, what's the answer?  I think it is headstay tension but I 
> don't 
> >> have a clue as to how to judge the proper tension.  If anyone knows the 
> answer 
> >> please share it with me, I don't want to go through another year of 
> >> experimentation.
> >>> Thanks,
> >>> Herb Creech
> >>> Cloud Chaser #606
> >>>
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> > 
> > I tried the block at every conceivable angle.  How do you strip the core from 
> the first 20'?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > Herb Creech
> > Cloud Chaser #606
> > 
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