[C320-list] (no subject)
hcreech at comcast.net
hcreech at comcast.net
Mon Mar 13 10:19:56 PST 2006
Scott,
Wow, Thanks!
Herb Creech
-------------- Original message ----------------------
From: Scott Thompson <sthompson at toad.net>
> Herb: Are you saying that the line piled up at the top even when you
> were leading it in from below a line perpendicular to the center of the
> drum? I don't see how that could happen unless the line is badly
> twisted somehow. If it's piling up only at the top then you almost
> certainly still have a lead angle problem, and I encourage you to check
> the lead angle directly. Some boats have the last lead mounted on the
> forward upright on the pulpit while others have the last lead on the aft
> most upright of the pulpit. Have you tried switching to the forward
> upright?
>
> I can't speak for whether 20 feet is the right amount to strip or not,
> but to strip core from the last twenty feet of a polyester double braid
> such as Staset, do the following easy steps:
>
> 1) Remove the line from the furler and tie a knot about 22 feet from
> the end in order to temporaily lock the core and cover together at this
> point.
>
> 2) Cut off a very small piece of the bitter end, if necessary, to
> unbind the core from the cover at that end.
>
> 3) About two feet from your stopper knot (20 feet from the bitter end)
> make a sharp bend in the line and then use a sharp object to carefully
> work apart the strands of the cover, exposing the core. Carefully
> extract a loop of the core through this hole, then carefully pull out
> the entire twenty feet of core from the end. Be careful not to damage
> the cover when you do this. You want to leave the cover as undisturbed
> as possible. Take it slow.
>
> 4) Now would be a good time to reburn or whip the end of the cover to
> prevent it from unravelling.
>
> 5. Smooth out the cover over the core, starting from the knot and
> working towards the bitter end. Mark the core where it emerges from the
> cover.
>
> 6. Bunch the cover back toward the knot so that your mark on the core
> emerges almost two feet out of the cover. From the mark, measure back
> another two inches on the core towards the knot and make a second mark.
> This is where you should cut the core. Go ahead and cut it.
>
> 7. You now have a short tail of core emerging from the bunched up
> cover. When you eventually smooth the cover away from the knot again
> this tail will disappear inside the cover. Before you do that, taper
> the last six inches of the core while you still can. There are
> different ways to do this, but one that is fairly easy and good enough
> for this application is to simply unravel the last 4-6 inches and then
> prune away at an angle so that some strands are still at the original
> length and others are shorter. Your goal here is to avoid sudden
> changes in the bulkiness of the core in the transition zone.
>
> 8. Once you've made your taper, smooth the bunched up cover away from
> the knot until the tapered end of the core disappears entirely into the
> hole you made in step 3. Smooth out the entire line away from the knot.
>
> 9. You should now have at least 1 foot of line still fully intact near
> the knot, then a tapered part of the core hidden inside the cover, then
> the empty part of the cover. Stitch back and forth a few times through
> cover and core near your knot to lock them together. Use some good
> waxed polyester thread or whipping twine for this. (Obviously you want
> to miss the tapered part of the core when you do this.) A stitched
> through whipping will also do the trick.
>
> 10. Untie the knot, reattach the end of the stripped cover to the
> furler and go sailing.
>
> Warning: If you strip 20 feet of core you will end up with considerably
> more than 20 feet of "empty" cover because the cover will stretch out
> once it loses the internal bulk provided by the core. Because of this,
> you may have to shorten the empty cover somewhat in order to make sure
> that the part of the line that loads up has sufficient core for the
> needed strength. Trial and error is called for here. Also, some high
> tech lines have all the strength in the core and almost none in the
> cover. Be cautious about stripping core from such a line. You can
> strip the cover intead, but that's a more difficult job.
>
> hcreech at comcast.net wrote:
> >
> >
> >
> > -------------- Original message ----------------------
> > From: Scott Thompson <sthompson at toad.net>
> >> You need to carefully check the lead angle. The lead should be
> >> perpendicular to the drum and straight into the middle while you are
> >> unfurling the sail. You need to check it in actual use, not just
> >> sitting at the dock. Most likely you need to move the last block lower
> >> still, or further forward, or both. Where is yours attached? In
> >> looking at various pictures on the web site, it appears that there is
> >> not necessarily any uniformity in how dealers or owners have set up the
> >> furler turning blocks.
> >>
> >> One general trick for "piling up" that I haven't tried, but that has
> >> been suggested to me, is to remove the core from the first part of the
> >> furling line that sits on the drum. This part of the line shouldn't
> >> come into play except when the sail is completely furled so that you are
> >> only winding the jib sheet around the furled sail, so it doesn't have to
> >> be as strong. When the sail is deployed it is covered by many turns of
> >> line that take most of the load. By removing the core you can get those
> >> first turns on the drum to lie flatter, leaving more room for the rest
> >> of the line. Of course this will not solve your problem if the issue is
> >> piling at the top of the drum rather than piling up more generally.
> >>
> >> If I were to try this trick, I would taper the core so that I didn't end
> >> up with a hard spot in the line at the transition, and I would stitch
> >> through the transitional area to keep the end of the core in place
> >> inside the cover.)
> >>
> >> Scott Thompson
> >>
> >> hcreech at comcast.net wrote:
> >>> I'm getting Cloud Chaser ready for her 8th season, hard to believe. it's
> also
> >> amazing how good she looks for that period of time.
> >>> Last season I fougt with the roller furling line piling at the top of the
> >> drum. I tried everything, called Sheaffer for suggestions. I lowered the
> block
> >> all the way to the deck, adjusted headstay and backstay tension. Although it
> did
> >> not eliminated the problem it did get better, it piles up at the very end if
> I'm
> >> careful to keep tension on the line. With no tension it piles up
> immediately.
> >>> My question is, what's the answer? I think it is headstay tension but I
> don't
> >> have a clue as to how to judge the proper tension. If anyone knows the
> answer
> >> please share it with me, I don't want to go through another year of
> >> experimentation.
> >>> Thanks,
> >>> Herb Creech
> >>> Cloud Chaser #606
> >>>
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> >
> > I tried the block at every conceivable angle. How do you strip the core from
> the first 20'?
> >
> > Thanks,
> > Herb Creech
> > Cloud Chaser #606
> >
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