[C320-list] furling line lead angles

[Chris Burti]

I have, but now I am dealing with a hangover from the
damage from Ophelia and can't get my Jenny up the
foil. Gotta fix that before I can test the line
replacement.

--- John Van Vessem <jvanvessem at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> You need to install an new line.
> 
> Chris Burti <cburti at yahoo.com> wrote:  I've tried
> dozens of adjustments to the lead angle
> including buying a second block and installing it on
> the forward pulpit stanchion. The only effect my
> efforts have produced is whether the line piles up
> on
> the top or on the bottom. 
> 
> When the line was newer and slimmer, it was not a
> problem as long as I kept tension on it.
> 
> cb
> 
> Perpendicular piles on the top, anything less goes
> to
> the bottom
> 
> --- Scott Thompson wrote:
> 
> > Herb: Are you saying that the line piled up at the
> > top even when you 
> > were leading it in from below a line perpendicular
> > to the center of the 
> > drum? I don't see how that could happen unless the
> > line is badly 
> > twisted somehow. If it's piling up only at the top
> > then you almost 
> > certainly still have a lead angle problem, and I
> > encourage you to check 
> > the lead angle directly. Some boats have the last
> > lead mounted on the 
> > forward upright on the pulpit while others have
> the
> > last lead on the aft 
> > most upright of the pulpit. Have you tried
> > switching to the forward 
> > upright?
> > 
> > I can't speak for whether 20 feet is the right
> > amount to strip or not, 
> > but to strip core from the last twenty feet of a
> > polyester double braid 
> > such as Staset, do the following easy steps:
> > 
> > 1) Remove the line from the furler and tie a knot
> > about 22 feet from 
> > the end in order to temporaily lock the core and
> > cover together at this 
> > point.
> > 
> > 2) Cut off a very small piece of the bitter end,
> if
> > necessary, to 
> > unbind the core from the cover at that end.
> > 
> > 3) About two feet from your stopper knot (20 feet
> > from the bitter end) 
> > make a sharp bend in the line and then use a sharp
> > object to carefully 
> > work apart the strands of the cover, exposing the
> > core. Carefully 
> > extract a loop of the core through this hole, then
> > carefully pull out 
> > the entire twenty feet of core from the end. Be
> > careful not to damage 
> > the cover when you do this. You want to leave the
> > cover as undisturbed 
> > as possible. Take it slow.
> > 
> > 4) Now would be a good time to reburn or whip the
> > end of the cover to 
> > prevent it from unravelling.
> > 
> > 5. Smooth out the cover over the core, starting
> > from the knot and 
> > working towards the bitter end. Mark the core
> where
> > it emerges from the 
> > cover.
> > 
> > 6. Bunch the cover back toward the knot so that
> > your mark on the core 
> > emerges almost two feet out of the cover. From the
> > mark, measure back 
> > another two inches on the core towards the knot
> and
> > make a second mark. 
> > This is where you should cut the core. Go ahead
> > and cut it.
> > 
> > 7. You now have a short tail of core emerging from
> > the bunched up 
> > cover. When you eventually smooth the cover away
> > from the knot again 
> > this tail will disappear inside the cover. Before
> > you do that, taper 
> > the last six inches of the core while you still
> can.
> > There are 
> > different ways to do this, but one that is fairly
> > easy and good enough 
> > for this application is to simply unravel the last
> > 4-6 inches and then 
> > prune away at an angle so that some strands are
> > still at the original 
> > length and others are shorter. Your goal here is
> to
> > avoid sudden 
> > changes in the bulkiness of the core in the
> > transition zone.
> > 
> > 8. Once you've made your taper, smooth the bunched
> > up cover away from 
> > the knot until the tapered end of the core
> > disappears entirely into the 
> > hole you made in step 3. Smooth out the entire
> line
> > away from the knot.
> > 
> > 9. You should now have at least 1 foot of line
> > still fully intact near 
> > the knot, then a tapered part of the core hidden
> > inside the cover, then 
> > the empty part of the cover. Stitch back and forth
> > a few times through 
> > cover and core near your knot to lock them
> together.
> > Use some good 
> > waxed polyester thread or whipping twine for this.
> 
> > (Obviously you want 
> > to miss the tapered part of the core when you do
> > this.) A stitched 
> > through whipping will also do the trick.
> > 
> > 10. Untie the knot, reattach the end of the
> > stripped cover to the 
> > furler and go sailing.
> > 
> > Warning: If you strip 20 feet of core you will end
> > up with considerably 
> > more than 20 feet of "empty" cover because the
> cover
> > will stretch out 
> > once it loses the internal bulk provided by the
> > core. Because of this, 
> > you may have to shorten the empty cover somewhat
> in
> > order to make sure 
> > that the part of the line that loads up has
> > sufficient core for the 
> > needed strength. Trial and error is called for
> > here. Also, some high 
> > tech lines have all the strength in the core and
> > almost none in the 
> > cover. Be cautious about stripping core from such
> a
> > line. You can 
> > strip the cover intead, but that's a more
> difficult
> > job.
> > 
> > hcreech at comcast.net wrote:
> > > 
> > > 
> > > 
> > > -------------- Original message
> > ----------------------
> > > From: Scott Thompson 
> > >> You need to carefully check the lead angle. The
> > lead should be 
> > >> perpendicular to the drum and straight into the
> > middle while you are 
> > >> unfurling the sail. You need to check it in
> > actual use, not just 
> > >> sitting at the dock. Most likely you need to
> > move the last block lower 
> > >> still, or further forward, or both. Where is
> > yours attached? In 
> > >> looking at various pictures on the web site, it
> > appears that there is 
> > >> not necessarily any uniformity in how dealers
> or
> > owners have set up the 
> > >> furler turning blocks.
> > >>
> > >> One general trick for "piling up" that I
> haven't
> > tried, but that has 
> > >> been suggested to me, is to remove the core
> from
> > the first part of the 
> > >> furling line that sits on the drum. This part
> of
> > the line shouldn't 
> > >> come into play except when the sail is
> completely
> > furled so that you are 
> > >> only winding the jib sheet around the furled
> 
=== message truncated ===


Chris Burti
"Commitment"
Catalina 320, #867, 
Farmville, NC

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