[C320-list] furling line lead angles

[John Van Vessem]

You need to install an new line.

Chris Burti <cburti at yahoo.com> wrote:  I've tried dozens of adjustments to the lead angle
including buying a second block and installing it on
the forward pulpit stanchion. The only effect my
efforts have produced is whether the line piles up on
the top or on the bottom. 

When the line was newer and slimmer, it was not a
problem as long as I kept tension on it.

cb

Perpendicular piles on the top, anything less goes to
the bottom

--- Scott Thompson wrote:

> Herb: Are you saying that the line piled up at the
> top even when you 
> were leading it in from below a line perpendicular
> to the center of the 
> drum? I don't see how that could happen unless the
> line is badly 
> twisted somehow. If it's piling up only at the top
> then you almost 
> certainly still have a lead angle problem, and I
> encourage you to check 
> the lead angle directly. Some boats have the last
> lead mounted on the 
> forward upright on the pulpit while others have the
> last lead on the aft 
> most upright of the pulpit. Have you tried
> switching to the forward 
> upright?
> 
> I can't speak for whether 20 feet is the right
> amount to strip or not, 
> but to strip core from the last twenty feet of a
> polyester double braid 
> such as Staset, do the following easy steps:
> 
> 1) Remove the line from the furler and tie a knot
> about 22 feet from 
> the end in order to temporaily lock the core and
> cover together at this 
> point.
> 
> 2) Cut off a very small piece of the bitter end, if
> necessary, to 
> unbind the core from the cover at that end.
> 
> 3) About two feet from your stopper knot (20 feet
> from the bitter end) 
> make a sharp bend in the line and then use a sharp
> object to carefully 
> work apart the strands of the cover, exposing the
> core. Carefully 
> extract a loop of the core through this hole, then
> carefully pull out 
> the entire twenty feet of core from the end. Be
> careful not to damage 
> the cover when you do this. You want to leave the
> cover as undisturbed 
> as possible. Take it slow.
> 
> 4) Now would be a good time to reburn or whip the
> end of the cover to 
> prevent it from unravelling.
> 
> 5. Smooth out the cover over the core, starting
> from the knot and 
> working towards the bitter end. Mark the core where
> it emerges from the 
> cover.
> 
> 6. Bunch the cover back toward the knot so that
> your mark on the core 
> emerges almost two feet out of the cover. From the
> mark, measure back 
> another two inches on the core towards the knot and
> make a second mark. 
> This is where you should cut the core. Go ahead
> and cut it.
> 
> 7. You now have a short tail of core emerging from
> the bunched up 
> cover. When you eventually smooth the cover away
> from the knot again 
> this tail will disappear inside the cover. Before
> you do that, taper 
> the last six inches of the core while you still can.
> There are 
> different ways to do this, but one that is fairly
> easy and good enough 
> for this application is to simply unravel the last
> 4-6 inches and then 
> prune away at an angle so that some strands are
> still at the original 
> length and others are shorter. Your goal here is to
> avoid sudden 
> changes in the bulkiness of the core in the
> transition zone.
> 
> 8. Once you've made your taper, smooth the bunched
> up cover away from 
> the knot until the tapered end of the core
> disappears entirely into the 
> hole you made in step 3. Smooth out the entire line
> away from the knot.
> 
> 9. You should now have at least 1 foot of line
> still fully intact near 
> the knot, then a tapered part of the core hidden
> inside the cover, then 
> the empty part of the cover. Stitch back and forth
> a few times through 
> cover and core near your knot to lock them together.
> Use some good 
> waxed polyester thread or whipping twine for this. 
> (Obviously you want 
> to miss the tapered part of the core when you do
> this.) A stitched 
> through whipping will also do the trick.
> 
> 10. Untie the knot, reattach the end of the
> stripped cover to the 
> furler and go sailing.
> 
> Warning: If you strip 20 feet of core you will end
> up with considerably 
> more than 20 feet of "empty" cover because the cover
> will stretch out 
> once it loses the internal bulk provided by the
> core. Because of this, 
> you may have to shorten the empty cover somewhat in
> order to make sure 
> that the part of the line that loads up has
> sufficient core for the 
> needed strength. Trial and error is called for
> here. Also, some high 
> tech lines have all the strength in the core and
> almost none in the 
> cover. Be cautious about stripping core from such a
> line. You can 
> strip the cover intead, but that's a more difficult
> job.
> 
> hcreech at comcast.net wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -------------- Original message
> ----------------------
> > From: Scott Thompson 
> >> You need to carefully check the lead angle. The
> lead should be 
> >> perpendicular to the drum and straight into the
> middle while you are 
> >> unfurling the sail. You need to check it in
> actual use, not just 
> >> sitting at the dock. Most likely you need to
> move the last block lower 
> >> still, or further forward, or both. Where is
> yours attached? In 
> >> looking at various pictures on the web site, it
> appears that there is 
> >> not necessarily any uniformity in how dealers or
> owners have set up the 
> >> furler turning blocks.
> >>
> >> One general trick for "piling up" that I haven't
> tried, but that has 
> >> been suggested to me, is to remove the core from
> the first part of the 
> >> furling line that sits on the drum. This part of
> the line shouldn't 
> >> come into play except when the sail is completely
> furled so that you are 
> >> only winding the jib sheet around the furled
> sail, so it doesn't have to 
> >> be as strong. When the sail is deployed it is
> covered by many turns of 
> >> line that take most of the load. By removing the
> core you can get those 
> >> first turns on the drum to lie flatter, leaving
> more room for the rest 
> >> of the line. Of course this will not solve your
> problem if the issue is 
> >> piling at the top of the drum rather than piling
> up more generally.
> >>
> >> If I were to try this trick, I would taper the
> core so that I didn't end 
> >> up with a hard spot in the line at the
> transition, and I would stitch 
> >> through the transitional area to keep the end of
> the core in place 
> >> inside the cover.)
> >>
> >> Scott Thompson
> >>
> >> hcreech at comcast.net wrote:
> >>> I'm getting Cloud Chaser ready for her 8th
> season, hard to believe. it's also 
> >> amazing how good she looks for that period of
> time.
> >>> Last season I fougt with the roller furling line
> piling at the top of the 
> >> drum. I tried everything, called Sheaffer for
> suggestions. I lowered the block 
> >> all the way to the deck, adjusted headstay and
> backstay tension. Although it did 
> >> not eliminated the problem it did get better, it
> piles up at the very end if I'm 
> >> careful to keep tension on the line. With no
> tension it piles up immediately.
> >>> My question is, what's the answer? I think it
> is headstay tension but I don't 
> 
=== message truncated ===


Chris Burti
"Commitment"
Catalina 320, #867, 
Farmville, NC

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John Van Vessem
Sojourn 645
Vallejo Yacht Club