[C320-list] Chesapeake Bay

Scott Thompson sthompson at toad.net
Fri Mar 24 06:00:51 PST 2006


Jeff:  One of my favorite subjects, as you will be able to tell by how 
much I wrote below...

If you want to avoid studios, craft shops and museums then you probably 
will not like St. Michaels.  Unfortunately there isn't a whole lot else 
left in that town in my view.  It stopped being a working man's town 
long ago.  However, the local restaurants are good and the museum is 
decent, if not overwhelmingingly so.  (The Mariner's museum in Newport 
News is supposedly better, but I haven't ever been.)  The best parts of 
the Chesapeake are not reachable by car, unfortunately.  You really need 
a boat to see the beauty of the many creeks and anchorages that are 
surrounded by private property.  However some places that I would visit 
that aren't too far from St. Michaels include:

1)  Easton:  Capital of the local area around St. Michaels.  There are 
some nice old historic buildings in this otherwise rapidly growing town, 
including one of the oldest Quaker meeting houses in the country.

2)  Oxford:  What St. Michaels used to be.  Lots of pretty old houses 
along an uncrowded main street and a great sailing scene.  Some good 
restaurants too.  Try the historic Robert Morris Inn, for example.

3)  Blackwater Wildlife Refuge (South of Cambridge).  I've often spotted 
bald eagles here among many other migratory and resident birds.

4)  Crisfield:  A real sea-food town, unfortunately is gradually being 
overrun with condos like almost everywhere else.  But still worth a 
visit.  This is also where you catch the ferry to Smith Island which is 
definitely worth a visit.  The ferry ride itself is worth the trip.

5)  Snow Hill.  A beautiful little town on the Pocomoke River.  The 
river itself is absolutely beautiful.  You can rent canoes and go for a 
trip up-river, which is undeveloped, if the weather is warm.

6)  Mostly, I enjoy the drives in the countryside in this part of the 
world.  Buy a good map and go exploring.

7) Chestertown, well up the Chester River.  An old colonial seaport that 
has recently re-discovered its past.  People are pouring money into old 
sea-captain's homes along the waterfront.  Homeport of the restored 
Schooner Sultana.

8)  If looking for small harbors you might want to visit also Chance, 
Deale, Tilghman Island (Knapps Narrows, especially), Cambridge, 
Queenstown, Rock Hall.  The list of such places is very long.  At least 
in Maryland, the best harbors on the Chesapeake (Shaw Bay on the Wye 
River, for example, or just about any place on the Corsica River or 
Langford Creek, or LaTrappe Creek, or ...) are not in towns, however, 
with the possible exceptions of Annapolis, Solomons, Oxford and Crisfield.

On the western shore, Annapolis is definitely worth a visit.  Visit the 
old colonial homes that are open for tours and the statehouse.  The 
museum at the Naval Academy is a small gem that is virtually unknown to 
the public.  Be sure to visit the display of ship models in the 
basement, some of which are hundreds of years old and were made by 
mariners, often while they were being held prisoner during the age of 
sail.  The Naval Academy chapel is a great place to take in a concert. 
You can visit the tomb of John Paul Jones in the crypt if you like. 
Walking around town and people-watching are the main sports in Annapolis 
besides sailing.  The sailing scene is a little slow right now, but 
explodes next month with the arrival of the Volvo Ocean racing fleet in 
Baltimore first, then Annapolis, and then the NOOD regatta at the end of 
April.  Lots of local regattas beginning next month too.  Annapolis also 
has a vibrant music scene.  Lots of interesting acts perform at the Rams 
Head tavern and there is good and sometimes great folk and jazz played 
at various places around town.  The King of France tavern almost always 
has good jazz, set in a historic building.  A bit away from downtown you 
can find the Maryland Hall performing arts center where you can hear 
concerts by the Annapolis Chorale or Symphony, and occasional operatic 
works too.  This is some of the best regional performing arts I've 
encountered.

There is lots of interesting stuff to see in Baltimore, including the 
restored frigate Constellation, Ft. McHenry, and the many attractions of 
the inner harbor.

Moving south from there, I'd visit Solomons Island and perhaps some of 
the surrounding countryside.  There is an excellent, small museum in 
Solomons.  George Washington's birthplace on the Potomac is worth a 
visit.  Although the house is not original the setting is beautiful.  I 
forget the name of the nearest town.  I'm less familiar with points 
further south.  There are obviously large numbers of interesting 
attractions in the Jamestown / Williamsburg / Newport News / Yorktown 
area.  If you are interested in American history then this area is 
overwhelming.  The archeological site at Jamestown is fascinating in my 
opinion, but I'd skip the commercial re-creation next door.  Yorktown 
battlefield is interesting too.  Williamsburg is not for everyone, but I 
find it enjoyable in small doses.  Excellent museums are in Norfolk.

The Chesapeake Bay Bridge Tunnel is an experience to try at least once.

But unless you are well-enough connected to visit some of the many, 
beautiful private estates that line the Chesapeake tributaries, you 
can't really see the Bay properly except by boat!


Jeff Church wrote:
> To all Chesapeake Bay sailors:
> 
> What are your favorite spots to visit in the bay area?
> 
> In a couple of days my wife and I will be taking our first trip to the Chesapeake Bay. We are staying in St. Michaels and plan drive each day to whatever interesting towns and attractions we can find. Aside from just relaxing and soaking up the scenery, we'd also like to get a measure of how attractive the area would be for our rapidly approaching retirement years. 
> 
> I'd appreciate any suggestions as to which towns, restaurants and attractions we should take in. I hope to avoid art studios, craft shops and museums unless they are really extraordinary or the weather is extra rainy. Are there any especially good harbors that we should check out? Should we plan to spend time in Annapolis, Virginia Beach, Norfolk or Newport News? 
> 
> Any and all suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
> 
> Thanks 
> 
> JeffC
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