[C320-list] Regatta Tech Sessions - a summary.

[jonvez at comcast.net]

Scott,

I also have a '99 and have the same information. I guess my concern is running at 3400 is still not realistic for me. Even 2800 doesn't increase the speed---I tend to run between 2100-2400 RPM--this is where I seem to get max. speed and engine doesn't feel like it's going to jump out of the boat.
--I think the comments around 3600 being the max 1 hour run time make sense as does the suggestion to check the tach (although I think mine is fairly accurate)

Regards,

Jon Vez

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "T. Scott Thompson" <sthompson at toad.net> 

> The owner's manual for my 1999 Yanmar 3GM30F pretty clearly states that 
> the engine is rated at 3400 RPM for continuous operation and 3600 RPM 
> for the one hour rating. My understanding is that this means that the 
> recommended cruising RPMs are 3400. 
> 
> 
> bruceheyman at cox.net wrote: 
> > Jon, 
> > Would be interested what others can get the autoprop up to. When I tried it 
> yesterday iit only made it up to 3300 or so. I'd also be interesting what 
> everyone considers the proper crusing RPM. At the regatta I heard everything 
> from 3000 to 2100. I always heard that desiels do best at 80% of red line. 
> I've looked theough the owners manual and the shop manual for the 3GM30F and 
> they offer no insight. 
> > Thanks, 
> > Bruce 
> > Somerset 671 SoCal 
> > Sent via BlackBerry from Cingular Wireless 
> > 
> > -----Original Message----- 
> > From: jonvez at comcast.net 
> > Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2006 17:37:42 
> > To:catalina at thehares.com, C320-List 
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Regatta Tech Sessions - a summary. 
> > 
> > Jeff, 
> > 
> > Thanks for the recap, very good info. all around....A couple of items from the 
> Yanmar discussion certainly stand out--certainly the comment on the Dexcool and 
> also getting the engine up to 3600 regardless of the prop...not sure I can do 
> that with my Autoprop.... 
> > 
> > Thanks again for keeping those of us who could not make it informed... 
> > 
> > Regards, 
> > 
> > Jon 
> > 
> > -------------- Original message -------------- 
> > From: "Jeffrey Hare" 
> > 
> > 
> >> Hi All, 
> >> 
> >> At this year's regatta, Dick organized tech sessions by: 
> >> 
> >> * Mark Felgenhauer at Garhauer Marine, 
> >> * A technical guy from Lewmar, 
> >> * A Yanmar technical representative 
> >> * Some riggers demonstrating how to tension and adjust the mast rigging on a 
> >> C320. 
> >> 
> >> This is about all I remember from those sessions. If you attended and have 
> >> things to add or corrections to make, please feel free to note them and make 
> >> corrections. I'd like to post as much information from the tech sessions as 
> >> possible on the website, but since I didn't take any written notes, I 
> >> probably forgot about lots of things that were discussed. I may also have 
> >> made some mistakes below in trying to write this email, so "have at it!". 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> GARHAUER: 
> >> ========= 
> >> The session with Garhauer was an interesting opportunity to see the new 
> >> products they've introduces for the C320, and ask tech questions about 
> >> applications. One of the most interesting new products is the replacement 
> >> Genoa turning block for the one in the cockpit near the primary winches. It 
> >> is a beautifully manufactured block that's a perfect replacement for the 
> >> stock Lewmar one. The main difference is that the Garhauer block has 
> >> bearings and handles the sheet loads way better. It's beautifully 
> >> anodized and machined from an aluminum block. 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> LEWMAR: 
> >> ========= 
> >> The Lewmar rep, discussed how to disassemble the side hatches, stop leaks 
> >> and adjust the latch mechanisms. He discussed the 4 types of side hatches 
> >> used on the C320, and showed the new Stainless Steel framed replacement 
> >> hatch used on the current and future C320s. He also indicated that Lewmar 
> >> now makes all the hatches on the C320, so at some point the forward hatch 
> >> went from being a Bomar, to a Lewmar. It would be interesting to know when 
> >> this change occurred. 
> >> 
> >> My observations: (from memory) 
> >> There are two shapes for the standard side hatches. Rectangular Ends & 
> >> Rounded Ends. 
> >> 
> >> As a common note, he indicated that replacement inside rubber seals on the 
> >> side hatches are available and replaceable if they're damaged and leak, but 
> >> keeping them clean and having the closing tension properly adjusted (where 
> >> possible) should eliminate leaking through this seal. 
> >> 
> >> Rectangular End side hatches: 
> >> ========================== 
> >> Used on the Earlier C320's (prior to ~2000??), and have the twist style 
> >> of hatch closure. 
> >> 
> >> There are two styles of outside frame for these. The older style has a 
> >> horizontal seam in the center of each end, and those that have a single 
> >> vertical seam at the bottom. The older styles were prone to the sealant in 
> >> the seams drying out and allowing water to enter the hatch frame, and leak 
> >> inside. He had a procedure that would help eliminate or reduce that 
> >> leakage. The newer version of the rectangular hatch had a vertical seam on 
> >> the bottom and was far less prone to leaking. But he said, to pull the 
> >> inner trim ring and if you see water in there after a rain, then the rubber 
> >> in the outer seal is probably leaking. Someone who took notes, may have 
> >> more details here. 
> >> 
> >> He indicated that there were a couple versions of the twist lock 
> >> closures on the rectangular frames. Ones that had the catches welded, and 
> >> others that had the catches screwed in. He had a procedure that would let 
> >> you adjust the closing tension here. 
> >> 
> >> Rounded End side hatches: 
> >> ======================= 
> >> Used on the newer (post ~2000-ish?) C320s and have the flip up/down 
> >> hatch closures. 
> >> 
> >> Lewmar has made a few different versions of these side hatches, with the 
> >> differences being mostly in the appearance of the finish on the aluminum 
> >> outside trim. 
> >> 
> >> The newest version has a SS outside trim ring and looks very nice. The 
> >> rounded end hatches can be directly replaced with the current polished 
> >> Stainless Steel side hatches since the sizes and hull opening requirements 
> >> are identical. They are not a direct replacement for the squared end side 
> >> hatches however. I forgot to ask about whether they have better side 
> >> screens on the new SS hatches. 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> YANMAR: 
> >> ========= 
> >> He mentioned quite a few things. Some of them I remember, most of 
> >> them I don't. :) 
> >> 
> >> * Again, he reiterated that regardless of which prop you have, the 
> >> engine needs to be able to reach 3600 RPM under load or the prop is 
> >> overpitched. 
> >> 
> >> * He indicated that a 2 micron filter was a good idea and that the 
> >> engine and pump has absolutely no difficulty with this fine a filter. I 
> >> mentioned (after his presentation was over) the discussions this list has 
> >> had and the concerns some raised about not getting a good enough flow with 
> >> 2u filters. He said that the engine is efficient and doesn't need to move 
> >> lots of fuel, so fuel starvation isn't going to happen just because you use 
> >> a 2u filter. He indicated that the difference in fuel flow through 2 and 
> >> 10 micron filters is really quite minimal. He indicated that the finer 
> >> filter is better for the injectors and that 2micron is stock for newer 
> >> yanmars anyway. Filter size does matter in really cold (below freezing) 
> >> weather where diesel gelling issues are possible. But I'm tucked in at home 
> >> beside the fireplace in those conditions anyway. :) 
> >> 
> >> * He discussed the differences in the 3YM vs. 3GM. Mainly that the 
> >> seawater impeller is easier to change. 
> >> 
> >> * He indicated that we should CHANGE our ANTIFREEZE to the DexCool 
> >> variety. He said yanmar found that the Green (and others?) were possibly 
> >> the cause of corrosion in the aluminum parts of the heat exchanger. Yanmar 
> >> is using DexCool in these engines exclusively now. (Please correct me if I 
> >> missed something here). We discussed flushing it out, and he said that we 
> >> should try to get as much out as possible, but not to worry about small 
> >> amounts left in there, that small amounts mixing wouldn't be harmful. 
> >> 
> >> * He mentioned that the impeller should be checked every year, and 
> >> replaced every ?2?. (I forgot his exact answer, but he indicated that look 
> >> for wear and cracking.) 
> >> 
> >> * He cleared up the "impeller mystery" between the European and 
> >> Japanese Yanmars. He said that there are 2 different pump manufacturers. 
> >> Johnson, and Yanmar. The Yanmar pump, needs an impeller with the keyway and 
> >> a paper gasket. The Johnson pump uses a rubber O-Ring and has a slotted 
> >> shaft that accepts an impeller with a screw through the center of the hole 
> >> in the impeller. He indicated that the Japanese Yanmars typically (but not 
> >> always) used the Yanmar pump, while the European Yanmars typically used the 
> >> Johnson pump. 
> >> 
> >> If you have an engine with the JOHNSON PUMP (it says so right on the back 
> >> plate), you can use the Johnson impeller kit which comes with the oring, 
> >> some unneeded paper washers and the impeller. Yanmar also sells this 
> >> impeller, but sells the o-ring separately (and is probably more $$). He 
> >> recommends just getting the Johnson kit if you have the johnson pump. 
> >> 
> >> If you have an engine with the YANMAR PUMP, (may say yanmar, but doesn't say 
> >> Johnson :), then you probably have to buy the impeller through Yanmar or 
> >> some other OEM supplier. It needs the paper washer. 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> RIGGING: 
> >> ======== 
> >> The riggers discussed how to tune the rig. They indicated that the cap 
> >> shrouds should be tensioned to no more than 12% breaking strength. 
> >> 
> >> They demonstrated proper use of the Pro version of the Loos gauge. 
> >> 
> >> They recommend the use of Boshield T9 spray on the turnbuckles to penetrate, 
> >> lube and seal out moisture. DON'T use this on turning blocks however 
> >> because it leaves a waxy buildup behind. Sailkote or other dry lubes are 
> >> preferred for turning/sliding blocks. 
> >> 
> >> They spent a considerable amount of time discussing the concept of pre-bend 
> >> in the mast. (my interpretation and words follow here, so correct me if I 
> >> incorrectly conveyed what they said) 
> >> 
> >> Pre-bend is a slight bend in the mast arching aft. Even for a furling main! 
> >> The reason is that when the mast is perfectly straight in column, the middle 
> >> will tend to pump (wiggle fore and aft) which will cause damaging fatigue 
> >> stresses on the mast. 
> >> 
> >> They indicated that we absolutely want to ensure that our mast has some 
> >> pre-bend. This is accomplished by ensuring that the FORWARD LOWERS are 
> >> tensioned properly and tighter than the AFT LOWERS, and that the backstay is 
> >> not too loose. This is to pull the middle section of the mast slightly 
> >> forward and introduce some bend. 
> >> 
> >> An interesting side-note: While at the Marina Del Ray regatta a couple 
> >> years back, I noticed that most of the C320s there had very loose (almost 
> >> floppy) forward lower stays. 
> >> 
> >> An observation on their techniques: If you've seen Brion Toss's video on 
> >> rig tuning, he has a far superior technique for adjusting the turn-buckles 
> >> which puts less stress on the turnbuckle and is easier. 
> >> 
> >> Procedurally, they said, put enough tension on the cap stays (highest one) 
> >> to keep the mast from falling down. Then generally work from the bottom up, 
> >> side to side until the shrouds are up to tension. 
> >> 
> >> There was a lot more, but it seemed obvious to me, so I don't recall 
> >> specifically what they said. Sorry! 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> -Jeff Hare 
> >> 
> >> 
> >> 
> 
>