[C320-list] Regatta Tech Sessions - a summary.

[Bryan Campbell]

I agree with Jon. Also note that the specs chart shows fuel consumption of
.52 gal/hr at 2400rpm. With a clean hull, no current, or head wind,  I get 5
knots at 2400rpm. 2800rpm bumps close to 6 knots.

-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com]On Behalf Of
jonvez at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 13, 2006 6:19 AM
To: C320-List
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Regatta Tech Sessions - a summary.


Scott,

I also have a '99 and have the same information. I guess my concern is
running at 3400 is still not realistic for me. Even 2800 doesn't increase
the speed---I tend to run between 2100-2400 RPM--this is where I seem to get
max. speed and engine doesn't feel like it's going to jump out of the boat.
--I think the comments around 3600 being the max 1 hour run time make sense
as does the suggestion to check the tach (although I think mine is fairly
accurate)

Regards,

Jon Vez

-------------- Original message --------------
From: "T. Scott Thompson" <sthompson at toad.net>

> The owner's manual for my 1999 Yanmar 3GM30F pretty clearly states that
> the engine is rated at 3400 RPM for continuous operation and 3600 RPM
> for the one hour rating. My understanding is that this means that the
> recommended cruising RPMs are 3400.
>
>
> bruceheyman at cox.net wrote:
> > Jon,
> > Would be interested what others can get the autoprop up to. When I tried
it
> yesterday iit only made it up to 3300 or so. I'd also be interesting what
> everyone considers the proper crusing RPM. At the regatta I heard
everything
> from 3000 to 2100. I always heard that desiels do best at 80% of red line.
> I've looked theough the owners manual and the shop manual for the 3GM30F
and
> they offer no insight.
> > Thanks,
> > Bruce
> > Somerset 671 SoCal
> > Sent via BlackBerry from Cingular Wireless
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: jonvez at comcast.net
> > Date: Tue, 12 Sep 2006 17:37:42
> > To:catalina at thehares.com, C320-List
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Regatta Tech Sessions - a summary.
> >
> > Jeff,
> >
> > Thanks for the recap, very good info. all around....A couple of items
from the
> Yanmar discussion certainly stand out--certainly the comment on the
Dexcool and
> also getting the engine up to 3600 regardless of the prop...not sure I can
do
> that with my Autoprop....
> >
> > Thanks again for keeping those of us who could not make it informed...
> >
> > Regards,
> >
> > Jon
> >
> > -------------- Original message --------------
> > From: "Jeffrey Hare"
> >
> >
> >> Hi All,
> >>
> >> At this year's regatta, Dick organized tech sessions by:
> >>
> >> * Mark Felgenhauer at Garhauer Marine,
> >> * A technical guy from Lewmar,
> >> * A Yanmar technical representative
> >> * Some riggers demonstrating how to tension and adjust the mast rigging
on a
> >> C320.
> >>
> >> This is about all I remember from those sessions. If you attended and
have
> >> things to add or corrections to make, please feel free to note them and
make
> >> corrections. I'd like to post as much information from the tech
sessions as
> >> possible on the website, but since I didn't take any written notes, I
> >> probably forgot about lots of things that were discussed. I may also
have
> >> made some mistakes below in trying to write this email, so "have at
it!".
> >>
> >>
> >> GARHAUER:
> >> =========
> >> The session with Garhauer was an interesting opportunity to see the new
> >> products they've introduces for the C320, and ask tech questions about
> >> applications. One of the most interesting new products is the
replacement
> >> Genoa turning block for the one in the cockpit near the primary
winches. It
> >> is a beautifully manufactured block that's a perfect replacement for
the
> >> stock Lewmar one. The main difference is that the Garhauer block has
> >> bearings and handles the sheet loads way better. It's beautifully
> >> anodized and machined from an aluminum block.
> >>
> >>
> >> LEWMAR:
> >> =========
> >> The Lewmar rep, discussed how to disassemble the side hatches, stop
leaks
> >> and adjust the latch mechanisms. He discussed the 4 types of side
hatches
> >> used on the C320, and showed the new Stainless Steel framed replacement
> >> hatch used on the current and future C320s. He also indicated that
Lewmar
> >> now makes all the hatches on the C320, so at some point the forward
hatch
> >> went from being a Bomar, to a Lewmar. It would be interesting to know
when
> >> this change occurred.
> >>
> >> My observations: (from memory)
> >> There are two shapes for the standard side hatches. Rectangular Ends &
> >> Rounded Ends.
> >>
> >> As a common note, he indicated that replacement inside rubber seals on
the
> >> side hatches are available and replaceable if they're damaged and leak,
but
> >> keeping them clean and having the closing tension properly adjusted
(where
> >> possible) should eliminate leaking through this seal.
> >>
> >> Rectangular End side hatches:
> >> ==========================
> >> Used on the Earlier C320's (prior to ~2000??), and have the twist style
> >> of hatch closure.
> >>
> >> There are two styles of outside frame for these. The older style has a
> >> horizontal seam in the center of each end, and those that have a single
> >> vertical seam at the bottom. The older styles were prone to the sealant
in
> >> the seams drying out and allowing water to enter the hatch frame, and
leak
> >> inside. He had a procedure that would help eliminate or reduce that
> >> leakage. The newer version of the rectangular hatch had a vertical seam
on
> >> the bottom and was far less prone to leaking. But he said, to pull the
> >> inner trim ring and if you see water in there after a rain, then the
rubber
> >> in the outer seal is probably leaking. Someone who took notes, may have
> >> more details here.
> >>
> >> He indicated that there were a couple versions of the twist lock
> >> closures on the rectangular frames. Ones that had the catches welded,
and
> >> others that had the catches screwed in. He had a procedure that would
let
> >> you adjust the closing tension here.
> >>
> >> Rounded End side hatches:
> >> =======================
> >> Used on the newer (post ~2000-ish?) C320s and have the flip up/down
> >> hatch closures.
> >>
> >> Lewmar has made a few different versions of these side hatches, with
the
> >> differences being mostly in the appearance of the finish on the
aluminum
> >> outside trim.
> >>
> >> The newest version has a SS outside trim ring and looks very nice. The
> >> rounded end hatches can be directly replaced with the current polished
> >> Stainless Steel side hatches since the sizes and hull opening
requirements
> >> are identical. They are not a direct replacement for the squared end
side
> >> hatches however. I forgot to ask about whether they have better side
> >> screens on the new SS hatches.
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> YANMAR:
> >> =========
> >> He mentioned quite a few things. Some of them I remember, most of
> >> them I don't. :)
> >>
> >> * Again, he reiterated that regardless of which prop you have, the
> >> engine needs to be able to reach 3600 RPM under load or the prop is
> >> overpitched.
> >>
> >> * He indicated that a 2 micron filter was a good idea and that the
> >> engine and pump has absolutely no difficulty with this fine a filter. I
> >> mentioned (after his presentation was over) the discussions this list
has
> >> had and the concerns some raised about not getting a good enough flow
with
> >> 2u filters. He said that the engine is efficient and doesn't need to
move
> >> lots of fuel, so fuel starvation isn't going to happen just because you
use
> >> a 2u filter. He indicated that the difference in fuel flow through 2
and
> >> 10 micron filters is really quite minimal. He indicated that the finer
> >> filter is better for the injectors and that 2micron is stock for newer
> >> yanmars anyway. Filter size does matter in really cold (below freezing)
> >> weather where diesel gelling issues are possible. But I'm tucked in at
home
> >> beside the fireplace in those conditions anyway. :)
> >>
> >> * He discussed the differences in the 3YM vs. 3GM. Mainly that the
> >> seawater impeller is easier to change.
> >>
> >> * He indicated that we should CHANGE our ANTIFREEZE to the DexCool
> >> variety. He said yanmar found that the Green (and others?) were
possibly
> >> the cause of corrosion in the aluminum parts of the heat exchanger.
Yanmar
> >> is using DexCool in these engines exclusively now. (Please correct me
if I
> >> missed something here). We discussed flushing it out, and he said that
we
> >> should try to get as much out as possible, but not to worry about small
> >> amounts left in there, that small amounts mixing wouldn't be harmful.
> >>
> >> * He mentioned that the impeller should be checked every year, and
> >> replaced every ?2?. (I forgot his exact answer, but he indicated that
look
> >> for wear and cracking.)
> >>
> >> * He cleared up the "impeller mystery" between the European and
> >> Japanese Yanmars. He said that there are 2 different pump
manufacturers.
> >> Johnson, and Yanmar. The Yanmar pump, needs an impeller with the keyway
and
> >> a paper gasket. The Johnson pump uses a rubber O-Ring and has a slotted
> >> shaft that accepts an impeller with a screw through the center of the
hole
> >> in the impeller. He indicated that the Japanese Yanmars typically (but
not
> >> always) used the Yanmar pump, while the European Yanmars typically used
the
> >> Johnson pump.
> >>
> >> If you have an engine with the JOHNSON PUMP (it says so right on the
back
> >> plate), you can use the Johnson impeller kit which comes with the
oring,
> >> some unneeded paper washers and the impeller. Yanmar also sells this
> >> impeller, but sells the o-ring separately (and is probably more $$). He
> >> recommends just getting the Johnson kit if you have the johnson pump.
> >>
> >> If you have an engine with the YANMAR PUMP, (may say yanmar, but
doesn't say
> >> Johnson :), then you probably have to buy the impeller through Yanmar
or
> >> some other OEM supplier. It needs the paper washer.
> >>
> >>
> >> RIGGING:
> >> ========
> >> The riggers discussed how to tune the rig. They indicated that the cap
> >> shrouds should be tensioned to no more than 12% breaking strength.
> >>
> >> They demonstrated proper use of the Pro version of the Loos gauge.
> >>
> >> They recommend the use of Boshield T9 spray on the turnbuckles to
penetrate,
> >> lube and seal out moisture. DON'T use this on turning blocks however
> >> because it leaves a waxy buildup behind. Sailkote or other dry lubes
are
> >> preferred for turning/sliding blocks.
> >>
> >> They spent a considerable amount of time discussing the concept of
pre-bend
> >> in the mast. (my interpretation and words follow here, so correct me if
I
> >> incorrectly conveyed what they said)
> >>
> >> Pre-bend is a slight bend in the mast arching aft. Even for a furling
main!
> >> The reason is that when the mast is perfectly straight in column, the
middle
> >> will tend to pump (wiggle fore and aft) which will cause damaging
fatigue
> >> stresses on the mast.
> >>
> >> They indicated that we absolutely want to ensure that our mast has some
> >> pre-bend. This is accomplished by ensuring that the FORWARD LOWERS are
> >> tensioned properly and tighter than the AFT LOWERS, and that the
backstay is
> >> not too loose. This is to pull the middle section of the mast slightly
> >> forward and introduce some bend.
> >>
> >> An interesting side-note: While at the Marina Del Ray regatta a couple
> >> years back, I noticed that most of the C320s there had very loose
(almost
> >> floppy) forward lower stays.
> >>
> >> An observation on their techniques: If you've seen Brion Toss's video
on
> >> rig tuning, he has a far superior technique for adjusting the
turn-buckles
> >> which puts less stress on the turnbuckle and is easier.
> >>
> >> Procedurally, they said, put enough tension on the cap stays (highest
one)
> >> to keep the mast from falling down. Then generally work from the bottom
up,
> >> side to side until the shrouds are up to tension.
> >>
> >> There was a lot more, but it seemed obvious to me, so I don't recall
> >> specifically what they said. Sorry!
> >>
> >>
> >> -Jeff Hare
> >>
> >>
> >>
>
>
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