[C320-list] Post about rebedding a chainplate

[Chris Burti]

 On Jun 3, 2005, at 4:11 AM, Jeff Church wrote:

 Julian,

I don't think you can do the job without removing the shroud. I just
finished doing a lower chain plate with the mast up, and removing the shroud
wasn't much of an issue, especially since I hadn't yet tuned the rig for the
season. If your mast is up and you have to do a chain plate for the upper
shrouds you will probably have to do something like loosening the
opposite shrouds a bit and running the halyard to a stanchion base.

Per your request, here is my procedure.

   1. Move your cushions far away from the big mess you are about to make
   and get the table out of your way.
   2. Remove the shroud.
   3. If the mast is still standing, have a beer.
   4. Remove the strut. Remember the sequence and position of the spacer
   and washers at the bottom of the strut. Mark the spacer so you know which
   side is up. A crows-foot socket makes loosening (and tightening) the nuts on
   the bottom of the strut a little easier. The strut holds a bit of tension
   between the deck and the beam that is built into the liner. Notice how many
   turns it takes before the upper nut on the bottom of the strut comes loose
   and releases that tension. This will help when you reinstall and re-tension
   the strut. Mine came loose after about 1 1/2 turns.
   5. Remove the 4 phillips head thru-bolts. The threads on mine were a
   mess so I had to purchase new ones, 1/4 x 20 x 1.5".
   6. Remove the tang (step on it).
   7. Mask the deck around the trim plate so clean-up after caulking is a
   little easier.
   8. Pry the trim plate off of the deck.
   9. The hole in the deck is larger than the tang and is filled with
   caulk. Clean out all of the old caulk.
   10. If the deck has a wooden core, clean out any rotten wood, let the
   core dry and fill the void with an appropriate filler.
   11. Clean all surfaces with acetone.
   12. Install the tang with the 4 screws but without the trim plate. I
   didn't use any caulk on the underside of the tang. If the topside is sealed
   there doesn't seem to be any purpose to it. If the topside isn't sealed it
   would just mask the problem while your deck rotted.
   13. Fill the space around the tang with Life-Calk and let it cure
   overnight.
   14. There is no step 14.
   15. Trim the dried caulk around the tang so that it is flush with the
   deck.
   16. Remove the phillips bolts.
   17. Put a heavy bead of caulk around the tang.
   18. Put some caulk in each bolt hole.
   19. Put a bead of caulk on the deck around each bolt hole.
   20. Place the trim plate in position and press it down firmly to force
   the caulk up between the plate and the tang.
   21. Put some caulk under the head of each bolt and push the bolts into
   the holes while pulling up on the tang. Don't push the tang down and ruin
   the seal.
   22. Tighten the 4 bolts. It would help to have someone on hand to
   assist with this step but I managed without.
   23. Clean up the caulk and remove the tape.
   24. Attach the strut. Tighten the upper nut until just snug, and then
   approx another 1 1/2 turns.
   25. Attach the shroud.
   26. PauHana, you're done.



On 4/25/07, Chris Holt <oldman1030 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
> There was an excellent post awhile back on the specific steps to rebedding
> a chainplate (complete with breaks for a beer).
> I can't seem to find the post.  Does anybody recall who the author was or
> have a copy of that email?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chris
> #447
>



-- 
Chris Burti
Farmville, NC