[C320-list] Post about rebedding a chainplate

[Chris Holt]

Thank you!

----- Original Message -----
From: "Chris Burti" <clburti at gmail.com>
To: "C320-List" <c320-list at catalina320.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2007 9:42 AM
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Post about rebedding a chainplate

> On Jun 3, 2005, at 4:11 AM, Jeff Church wrote:
>
> Julian,
>
> I don't think you can do the job without removing the shroud. I just
> finished doing a lower chain plate with the mast up, and removing the 
> shroud
> wasn't much of an issue, especially since I hadn't yet tuned the rig for 
> the
> season. If your mast is up and you have to do a chain plate for the upper
> shrouds you will probably have to do something like loosening the
> opposite shrouds a bit and running the halyard to a stanchion base.
>
> Per your request, here is my procedure.
>
>   1. Move your cushions far away from the big mess you are about to make
>   and get the table out of your way.
>   2. Remove the shroud.
>   3. If the mast is still standing, have a beer.
>   4. Remove the strut. Remember the sequence and position of the spacer
>   and washers at the bottom of the strut. Mark the spacer so you know 
> which
>   side is up. A crows-foot socket makes loosening (and tightening) the 
> nuts on
>   the bottom of the strut a little easier. The strut holds a bit of 
> tension
>   between the deck and the beam that is built into the liner. Notice how 
> many
>   turns it takes before the upper nut on the bottom of the strut comes 
> loose
>   and releases that tension. This will help when you reinstall and 
> re-tension
>   the strut. Mine came loose after about 1 1/2 turns.
>   5. Remove the 4 phillips head thru-bolts. The threads on mine were a
>   mess so I had to purchase new ones, 1/4 x 20 x 1.5".
>   6. Remove the tang (step on it).
>   7. Mask the deck around the trim plate so clean-up after caulking is a
>   little easier.
>   8. Pry the trim plate off of the deck.
>   9. The hole in the deck is larger than the tang and is filled with
>   caulk. Clean out all of the old caulk.
>   10. If the deck has a wooden core, clean out any rotten wood, let the
>   core dry and fill the void with an appropriate filler.
>   11. Clean all surfaces with acetone.
>   12. Install the tang with the 4 screws but without the trim plate. I
>   didn't use any caulk on the underside of the tang. If the topside is 
> sealed
>   there doesn't seem to be any purpose to it. If the topside isn't sealed 
> it
>   would just mask the problem while your deck rotted.
>   13. Fill the space around the tang with Life-Calk and let it cure
>   overnight.
>   14. There is no step 14.
>   15. Trim the dried caulk around the tang so that it is flush with the
>   deck.
>   16. Remove the phillips bolts.
>   17. Put a heavy bead of caulk around the tang.
>   18. Put some caulk in each bolt hole.
>   19. Put a bead of caulk on the deck around each bolt hole.
>   20. Place the trim plate in position and press it down firmly to force
>   the caulk up between the plate and the tang.
>   21. Put some caulk under the head of each bolt and push the bolts into
>   the holes while pulling up on the tang. Don't push the tang down and 
> ruin
>   the seal.
>   22. Tighten the 4 bolts. It would help to have someone on hand to
>   assist with this step but I managed without.
>   23. Clean up the caulk and remove the tape.
>   24. Attach the strut. Tighten the upper nut until just snug, and then
>   approx another 1 1/2 turns.
>   25. Attach the shroud.
>   26. PauHana, you're done.
>
>
>
> On 4/25/07, Chris Holt <oldman1030 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> There was an excellent post awhile back on the specific steps to 
>> rebedding
>> a chainplate (complete with breaks for a beer).
>> I can't seem to find the post.  Does anybody recall who the author was or
>> have a copy of that email?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Chris
>> #447
>>
>
>
>
> -- 
> Chris Burti
> Farmville, NC
>