[C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding

[Crosby Roper]

Jeff,
 
 Thanks for the response. I've been told that the Racor should be drained of sediment/H2O monthly- is this not necessary. I have about 130 hrs on the engine and the boat is 2 years old. Would you rec. changing filters at this point, or waiting until the recommended change at 200hrs?
 
 Thanks for your help
 
Crosby



> Date: Thu, 30 Aug 2007 16:37:17 -0400> From: stephaner at gmail.com> To: c320-list at catalina320.com> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding> > Hi Jeff,> > Thank you for the procedure.> > Do you know, if it is still the R215 in use on new Catalina 320?> > My fuel tank is contaminated.> > Do you know any portable fuel polishing system that i can use to clean the tank.> > Or is it easy to remove the tank to get it cleaned.> > Then,> > I'm wondering of installing a second R215 with bypass valves to be> able to switch to a usable filter while still running and change the> filter at the same time.> > Anyone has done it? Any recommandations?> > > Stéphane> Hull 544> > > > On 8/30/07, Jeffrey Hare <Catalina at thehares.com> wrote:> > Hi Crosby,> >> > If the clear bowl does not have any water or sediment, then there's simply> > no reason to bleed it from the bottom of the filter. That's just how you> > drain excess water from the separator should it collect any. And if you are> > just draining the water/sediment from the bowl, you want to leave the fuel> > tank stopcock open. Then there will be no need to bleed anything after> > doing this, as you've not introduced any air into the system.> >> > When changing the Racor filter, that's a different story. You should do> > this with a full fuel tank so that you have an easier time with the bleeding> > process.> >> > 1) In this case, you would shut off the fuel tank stopcock.> >> > 2) Unscrew the Racor filter (leaving the plastic bowl in place at this> > point). Many people use large ziplock bags slipped up around the filter to> > keep any diesel from spilling into the bilge.> >> > 3) Unscrew the bowl from the bottom of the Racor, clean it and put it back> > on the new filter, reinstall the new one not too tight.> >> > 4) Reopen the fuel stopcock.> >> > 5) Loosen the flat white plastic cap flush on the top of the filter and this> > should allow fuel to free-flow and fill the filter and bowl. When you get> > clean fuel with no bubbles out of the top of the filter vent, tighten the> > cap up and move on to the next step. (replacing the engine mounted filter,> > or just bleeding the line)> >> > 6) On the top of the engine-mounted fuel filter, there should be a bleed> > screw. If done properly, this should be the only other place you need to> > bleed air from. I suggest following the fuel hose from the Racor and> > lifting it and tapping on it to move any bubbles that may be in the line to> > work their way up to the secondary filter on the engine.> >> > 7) Once you're pretty sure any major bubbles have moved along, loosen the> > bleed screw on the top of the engine mounted filter, and slip a ziplock bag> > around it.> >> > 8) There is a white plastic knob on the top of the Racor. It is a manual> > fuel pump and works much better than the fuel lifter lever on the engine.> > Unscrew this and gently/slowly pump this until you get no bubbles out of the> > engine filter's bleed screw.> >> > 9) Run the engine for at least 15 minutes and if possible put it in gear> > after the engine is warm. If it stalls, then you didn't get all the air out> > and you'll likely need to bleed one more place (but not at the injectors).> > Find the high pressure fuel pump where the thin metal fuel tubes exit to> > feed the injectors. This unit has a bleed screw and just loosening this> > screw should vent the remaining air. You could try pumping the racor pump> > again to be sure you get just fuel, no bubbles or foam.> >> > There are more clearly written procedures for this elsewhere, but I didn't> > have them on hand.> >> > By the way, You should be using an R15S filter 2 micron (not an R15P) for> > both the Racor and the engine mounted filter. That's what the Yanmar Techs> > and our local Yanmar Dealer/installer recommend. It's just silly to use a> > fine engine mounted filter preceeded by a 10, 15 or 20 micron filter on the> > Racor, because now you're practically guaranteed to need to change both> > filters every time you change a clogged or dirty Racor.> >> > The engine mounted filter is really just a trap for anything that gets by> > the racor during filter changes.> >> > -Jeff H.> >> > -----Original Message-----> > From: c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com> > [mailto:c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Crosby Roper> > Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 12:56 PM> > To: c320-list at catalina320.com> > Subject: [C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding> >> > Hi all,> >> > I need some advice on bleeding the primary fule filter (Racor RP15) on my> > yanmar Y3M30. The clear jar at the bottom does not reveal any water or> > sediment, but I have not done it before and it's well overdue. Two basic> > questions> >> > 1) Do I leave the stopcock from the fuel tank open or closed when bleeding> > from the bottom of the filter?> >> > 2) Will I need to bleed air from the system after I do this, and if so can I> > stop bleeding at the secondary filter or do I need to bleed all the way to> > the injectors.> >> > Any advice is appreciated (unless its bad....)> >> >> > Crosby Roper> > Tehtys Hull # 1504> > _________________________________________________________________> > Explore the seven wonders of the world> > http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=7+wonders+world&mkt=en-US&form=QBRE> >> >> >> 
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