[C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding

[Jeff Church]

JeffH,

I wish we could get some consistent advice about this. I used to use the 2 micron filter in the Racor. Then I had a Mack Boring tech check out the engine. He recommended the 30 micron R15P. The local Catalina dealer's technician agrees, and he is an absolute grand high anointed all seeing all knowing boat wizard, so now I'm using the 30 micron filter.

JeffC
  ----- Original Message ----- 
  From: Jeffrey Hare 
  To: 'C320-List' 
  Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 2:57 PM
  Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding


  Hi Crosby,

  If the clear bowl does not have any water or sediment, then there's simply
  no reason to bleed it from the bottom of the filter.  That's just how you
  drain excess water from the separator should it collect any.  And if you are
  just draining the water/sediment from the bowl, you want to leave the fuel
  tank stopcock open.  Then there will be no need to bleed anything after
  doing this, as you've not introduced any air into the system.

  When changing the Racor filter, that's a different story.  You should do
  this with a full fuel tank so that you have an easier time with the bleeding
  process.

  1) In this case, you would shut off the fuel tank stopcock.

  2) Unscrew the Racor filter (leaving the plastic bowl in place at this
  point).  Many people use large ziplock bags slipped up around the filter to
  keep any diesel from spilling into the bilge.

  3) Unscrew the bowl from the bottom of the Racor, clean it and put it back
  on the new filter, reinstall the new one not too tight.

  4) Reopen the fuel stopcock.

  5) Loosen the flat white plastic cap flush on the top of the filter and this
  should allow fuel to free-flow and fill the filter and bowl.  When you get
  clean fuel with no bubbles out of the top of the filter vent, tighten the
  cap up and move on to the next step.  (replacing the engine mounted filter,
  or just bleeding the line)

  6) On the top of the engine-mounted fuel filter, there should be a bleed
  screw. If done properly, this should be the only other place you need to
  bleed air from.  I suggest following the fuel hose from the Racor and
  lifting it and tapping on it to move any bubbles that may be in the line to
  work their way up to the secondary filter on the engine.  

  7) Once you're pretty sure any major bubbles have moved along, loosen the
  bleed screw on the top of the engine mounted filter, and slip a ziplock bag
  around it.

  8) There is a white plastic knob on the top of the Racor.  It is a manual
  fuel pump and works much better than the fuel lifter lever on the engine.
  Unscrew this and gently/slowly pump this until you get no bubbles out of the
  engine filter's bleed screw.

  9) Run the engine for at least 15 minutes and if possible put it in gear
  after the engine is warm.  If it stalls, then you didn't get all the air out
  and you'll likely need to bleed one more place (but not at the injectors).
  Find the high pressure fuel pump where the thin metal fuel tubes exit to
  feed the injectors.  This unit has a bleed screw and just loosening this
  screw should vent the remaining air. You could try pumping the racor pump
  again to be sure you get just fuel, no bubbles or foam.

  There are more clearly written procedures for this elsewhere, but I didn't
  have them on hand.

  By the way, You should be using an R15S filter 2 micron (not an R15P) for
  both the Racor and the engine mounted filter.  That's what the Yanmar Techs
  and our local Yanmar Dealer/installer recommend.  It's just silly to use a
  fine engine mounted filter preceeded by a 10, 15 or 20 micron filter on the
  Racor, because now you're practically guaranteed to need to change both
  filters every time you change a clogged or dirty Racor.

  The engine mounted filter is really just a trap for anything that gets by
  the racor during filter changes.

  -Jeff H.

  -----Original Message-----
  From: c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com
  [mailto:c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Crosby Roper
  Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 12:56 PM
  To: c320-list at catalina320.com
  Subject: [C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding

  Hi all,
   
  I need some advice on bleeding the primary fule filter (Racor RP15) on my
  yanmar Y3M30. The clear jar at the bottom does not reveal any water or
  sediment, but I have not done it before and it's well overdue. Two basic
  questions
   
  1) Do I leave the stopcock from the fuel tank open or closed when bleeding
  from the bottom of the filter?
   
  2) Will I need to bleed air from the system after I do this, and if so can I
  stop bleeding at the secondary filter or do I need to bleed all the way to
  the injectors.
   
  Any advice is appreciated (unless its bad....)
   
   
  Crosby Roper
  Tehtys Hull # 1504
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