[C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding

Fri Aug 31 06:57:09 PDT 2007

FWIW, my Yanmar dealer, Inland Marine Diesel recommended against using the 2 
micron primary filter and instead recommended the 30 micron filter, R15p.

__
Kurt Budelmann
Everwind, Catalina 320, #1035

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Thompson" <sthompson at toad.net>
To: "C320-List" <c320-list at catalina320.com>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 9:49 AM
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding

> All excellent advice.  In steps 2 and 3 I find it very handy to use an oil 
> filter wrench of some sort on the Racor cartridge.
>
> The Racor filter element should come with a new gasket.  I forget if it 
> also includes a new O-ring for the bowl.  When you are removing the filter 
> element from the Racor in step 2, pay careful attention to the orientation 
> of the gasket on top.  It has a top and a bottom and is not symmetrical. 
> If you reinstall the new one upside down then it will leak.  By looking at 
> the old one when you remove it you can learn which is the top.  I need to 
> write this down in my service notes, but somehow never have.
>
> At the beginning of step 9, do not start the engine while the bleed screws 
> are still open.  They need to be closed first.
>
> I usually replace the Yanmar secondary filter on the engine at the same 
> time as the Racor.  It's cheap and I'm bleeding the system anyway, so why 
> not.  You have to pump more fuel during the bleeding process this way, but 
> with the little pump on the Racor that's easy.  Plus the lifting and 
> tapping in step 6 seems to be unnecessary when you do both at once.
>
>
> Jeffrey Hare wrote:
>> Hi Crosby,
>>
>> If the clear bowl does not have any water or sediment, then there's 
>> simply
>> no reason to bleed it from the bottom of the filter.  That's just how you
>> drain excess water from the separator should it collect any.  And if you 
>> are
>> just draining the water/sediment from the bowl, you want to leave the 
>> fuel
>> tank stopcock open.  Then there will be no need to bleed anything after
>> doing this, as you've not introduced any air into the system.
>>
>> When changing the Racor filter, that's a different story.  You should do
>> this with a full fuel tank so that you have an easier time with the 
>> bleeding
>> process.
>>
>> 1) In this case, you would shut off the fuel tank stopcock.
>>
>> 2) Unscrew the Racor filter (leaving the plastic bowl in place at this
>> point).  Many people use large ziplock bags slipped up around the filter 
>> to
>> keep any diesel from spilling into the bilge.
>>
>> 3) Unscrew the bowl from the bottom of the Racor, clean it and put it 
>> back
>> on the new filter, reinstall the new one not too tight.
>>
>> 4) Reopen the fuel stopcock.
>>
>> 5) Loosen the flat white plastic cap flush on the top of the filter and 
>> this
>> should allow fuel to free-flow and fill the filter and bowl.  When you 
>> get
>> clean fuel with no bubbles out of the top of the filter vent, tighten the
>> cap up and move on to the next step.  (replacing the engine mounted 
>> filter,
>> or just bleeding the line)
>>
>> 6) On the top of the engine-mounted fuel filter, there should be a bleed
>> screw. If done properly, this should be the only other place you need to
>> bleed air from.  I suggest following the fuel hose from the Racor and
>> lifting it and tapping on it to move any bubbles that may be in the line 
>> to
>> work their way up to the secondary filter on the engine.  7) Once you're 
>> pretty sure any major bubbles have moved along, loosen the
>> bleed screw on the top of the engine mounted filter, and slip a ziplock 
>> bag
>> around it.
>>
>> 8) There is a white plastic knob on the top of the Racor.  It is a manual
>> fuel pump and works much better than the fuel lifter lever on the engine.
>> Unscrew this and gently/slowly pump this until you get no bubbles out of 
>> the
>> engine filter's bleed screw.
>>
>> 9) Run the engine for at least 15 minutes and if possible put it in gear
>> after the engine is warm.  If it stalls, then you didn't get all the air 
>> out
>> and you'll likely need to bleed one more place (but not at the 
>> injectors).
>> Find the high pressure fuel pump where the thin metal fuel tubes exit to
>> feed the injectors.  This unit has a bleed screw and just loosening this
>> screw should vent the remaining air. You could try pumping the racor pump
>> again to be sure you get just fuel, no bubbles or foam.
>>
>> There are more clearly written procedures for this elsewhere, but I 
>> didn't
>> have them on hand.
>>
>> By the way, You should be using an R15S filter 2 micron (not an R15P) for
>> both the Racor and the engine mounted filter.  That's what the Yanmar 
>> Techs
>> and our local Yanmar Dealer/installer recommend.  It's just silly to use 
>> a
>> fine engine mounted filter preceeded by a 10, 15 or 20 micron filter on 
>> the
>> Racor, because now you're practically guaranteed to need to change both
>> filters every time you change a clogged or dirty Racor.
>>
>> The engine mounted filter is really just a trap for anything that gets by
>> the racor during filter changes.
>>
>> -Jeff H.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com
>> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Crosby Roper
>> Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 12:56 PM
>> To: c320-list at catalina320.com
>> Subject: [C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding
>>
>> Hi all,
>>  I need some advice on bleeding the primary fule filter (Racor RP15) on 
>> my
>> yanmar Y3M30. The clear jar at the bottom does not reveal any water or
>> sediment, but I have not done it before and it's well overdue. Two basic
>> questions
>>  1) Do I leave the stopcock from the fuel tank open or closed when 
>> bleeding
>> from the bottom of the filter?
>>  2) Will I need to bleed air from the system after I do this, and if so 
>> can I
>> stop bleeding at the secondary filter or do I need to bleed all the way 
>> to
>> the injectors.
>>  Any advice is appreciated (unless its bad....)
>>  Crosby Roper
>> Tehtys Hull # 1504
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> 