[C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding

[Ken Danko]

I just did this job last week and would add a couple of points if you 
have never changed the primary. This is a messy job even if you use 
baggies. Have plenty of absorbant pads or old towles as well as paper 
towles available. I also have hot water and detergent ready to clean up 
the inevitable fuel spills and the sides of the filter. While you can 
fill the new filter with the pump on the top, it is easier to pour fuel 
into the new filter before screwing it back on and use the pump to top 
it off and bleed the air out. I fill it about 7/8s of the way before I 
reattach it. I have never had to bleed in any other place except the top 
of the primary. It's a different story if you change the secondary. 
Regardless, I have never had to bleed the injectors.

Ken Danko
Grace, #802

Jeffrey Hare wrote:
> Hi Crosby,
>
> If the clear bowl does not have any water or sediment, then there's simply
> no reason to bleed it from the bottom of the filter.  That's just how you
> drain excess water from the separator should it collect any.  And if you are
> just draining the water/sediment from the bowl, you want to leave the fuel
> tank stopcock open.  Then there will be no need to bleed anything after
> doing this, as you've not introduced any air into the system.
>
> When changing the Racor filter, that's a different story.  You should do
> this with a full fuel tank so that you have an easier time with the bleeding
> process.
>
> 1) In this case, you would shut off the fuel tank stopcock.
>
> 2) Unscrew the Racor filter (leaving the plastic bowl in place at this
> point).  Many people use large ziplock bags slipped up around the filter to
> keep any diesel from spilling into the bilge.
>
> 3) Unscrew the bowl from the bottom of the Racor, clean it and put it back
> on the new filter, reinstall the new one not too tight.
>
> 4) Reopen the fuel stopcock.
>
> 5) Loosen the flat white plastic cap flush on the top of the filter and this
> should allow fuel to free-flow and fill the filter and bowl.  When you get
> clean fuel with no bubbles out of the top of the filter vent, tighten the
> cap up and move on to the next step.  (replacing the engine mounted filter,
> or just bleeding the line)
>
> 6) On the top of the engine-mounted fuel filter, there should be a bleed
> screw. If done properly, this should be the only other place you need to
> bleed air from.  I suggest following the fuel hose from the Racor and
> lifting it and tapping on it to move any bubbles that may be in the line to
> work their way up to the secondary filter on the engine.  
>
> 7) Once you're pretty sure any major bubbles have moved along, loosen the
> bleed screw on the top of the engine mounted filter, and slip a ziplock bag
> around it.
>
> 8) There is a white plastic knob on the top of the Racor.  It is a manual
> fuel pump and works much better than the fuel lifter lever on the engine.
> Unscrew this and gently/slowly pump this until you get no bubbles out of the
> engine filter's bleed screw.
>
> 9) Run the engine for at least 15 minutes and if possible put it in gear
> after the engine is warm.  If it stalls, then you didn't get all the air out
> and you'll likely need to bleed one more place (but not at the injectors).
> Find the high pressure fuel pump where the thin metal fuel tubes exit to
> feed the injectors.  This unit has a bleed screw and just loosening this
> screw should vent the remaining air. You could try pumping the racor pump
> again to be sure you get just fuel, no bubbles or foam.
>
> There are more clearly written procedures for this elsewhere, but I didn't
> have them on hand.
>
> By the way, You should be using an R15S filter 2 micron (not an R15P) for
> both the Racor and the engine mounted filter.  That's what the Yanmar Techs
> and our local Yanmar Dealer/installer recommend.  It's just silly to use a
> fine engine mounted filter preceeded by a 10, 15 or 20 micron filter on the
> Racor, because now you're practically guaranteed to need to change both
> filters every time you change a clogged or dirty Racor.
>
> The engine mounted filter is really just a trap for anything that gets by
> the racor during filter changes.
>
> -Jeff H.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com
> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Crosby Roper
> Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 12:56 PM
> To: c320-list at catalina320.com
> Subject: [C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding
>
> Hi all,
>  
> I need some advice on bleeding the primary fule filter (Racor RP15) on my
> yanmar Y3M30. The clear jar at the bottom does not reveal any water or
> sediment, but I have not done it before and it's well overdue. Two basic
> questions
>  
> 1) Do I leave the stopcock from the fuel tank open or closed when bleeding
> from the bottom of the filter?
>  
> 2) Will I need to bleed air from the system after I do this, and if so can I
> stop bleeding at the secondary filter or do I need to bleed all the way to
> the injectors.
>  
> Any advice is appreciated (unless its bad....)
>  
>  
> Crosby Roper
> Tehtys Hull # 1504
> _________________________________________________________________
> Explore the seven wonders of the world
> http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=7+wonders+world&mkt=en-US&form=QBRE
>
>
>
>