[C320-list] Comments on older C320 "floors"
Rod Boer
rod.boer1 at verizon.net
Sun Feb 11 13:44:52 PST 2007
Hi Bruce,
The panels that are over the bilge area of the boat have a thin layer of
plastic laminated to the bottom. The panel that is just forward of
compression post has the plastic covering and a substantial amount of the
thickness of the wood removed in the area of the dark spot. Mine has been
home for a couple of months and the dark spot has not gone away. I am
guessing that the discoloration is caused by water vapor absorbed from the
bilge area. I hope this helps. Thanks.
Rod
Odyssey, #688
----- Original Message -----
From: <bruceheyman at cox.net>
To: "C320-List" <c320-list at catalina320.com>
Sent: Sunday, December 31, 2006 10:14 PM
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Comments on older C320 "floors"
> Tony,
> I bought the Ultimate Sole kit, solvent, sealer and finish with the
> intention of redoing the sole on our Sabre 30. We were fortunately able
> to upgrade to our C320 before I had/got to do the work. Everyone on the
> Sabre list swore by the stuff. With all but bare feet they claimed that
> even when wet it provided fantastic footing and the gloss was to die for.
> I still have the kit and may tackle the job once I get a few other things
> done. I wonder if I have a mildew problem in one of the panels. There is
> a 2"x6" rectangular area a couple of inches in front of the compression
> post on the panel that covers the bilge. It almost looks like it was
> burnt but the surface is still smooth and glossy. Is this similar to what
> you saw?
> Also did you do the companion way steps?
> Thanks,
> Bruce
> Somerset 671 SoCal
>
> ---- amshd2 at aol.com wrote:
>> Jon
>>
>> I have hull#30. I refinished the sole last winter. My table base came
>> off with out any effort.
>>
>> I took the whole sole home and first stripped it using Dads stripper and
>> a plastic scraper Dads is the best chemical stripper I have ever used
>> stuff worked great. This really helped to make the job go much faster
>> and left a great surface to work with. I used the cleaner that comes
>> from Ultimate Sole to clean the sole before and after sanding. I also
>> used wood bleach to get out most of the black stain around the screw
>> holes. And yes be careful not to send to hard.
>>
>> I used the Ultimate Sole product. It came out great easy to put on with
>> little to no sanding between coats. The stuff also dry's fast. I could
>> not believe how great it came out. The stuff has a anti slip agent in it
>> and it does work. The guys at Ultimate Sole were great to work with I
>> called them a couple of times and got some great pointers.
>>
>> Now 2-3 people in my marina are going to use the stuff.
>>
>> I highly recommend the stuff.
>>
>>
>> Tony
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: jonvez at comcast.net
>> To: c320-list at catalina320.com
>> Sent: Sat, 30 Dec 2006 7:35 PM
>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Comments on older C320 "floors"
>>
>>
>> Thanks Bill...greatly appreciate it! Didn't know what was on the other
>> side of
>> those bolts....
>>
>> Regards,
>>
>> Jon
>>
>> -------------- Original message --------------
>> From: Bill Culbertson <billculb_a2 at yahoo.com>
>>
>> > Jon,
>> >
>> > Just remove the six largeish screws encircling the conical base of the
>> > table
>> and
>> > lift the whole thing out. I sent you 3 photos offline from when did
>> > this two
>> > years ago. I took all the floor pieces home so that Kathy could
>> > refinish them.
>>
>> >
>> > -bill
>> >
>> >
>> > ----- Original Message ----
>> > From: "jonvez at comcast.net"
>> > To: C320-List
>> > Sent: Saturday, December 30, 2006 7:48:27 AM
>> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Comments on older C320 "floors"
>> >
>> >
>> > For those who have removed the base of the table, are there any tips or
>> tricks?
>> > I want to pull of my floor boards but have avoided this area as I
>> > haven't been
>>
>> > able to determine the best way to get the base off...Thanks in
>> > advance...
>> >
>> > Regards,
>> >
>> > Jon Vez
>> >
>> > -------------- Original message --------------
>> > From: "Warren Updike"
>> >
>> > > In this context, I use the word "floor" to mean that area under the
>> > > sole
>> while
>> > > the wood surface that is walked on is, well, the cabin sole. I
>> > > learned this
>> > > somewhre, I forget where. Anyway, last winter I removed the entire
>> > > sole to
>> > > refinish it at home. This gave an excellent opportunity to check all
>> > > the
>> bilge
>> > > spaces in the "floor."
>> > >
>> > > As our #62 is among the oldest C320s, I can't say when the floor/sole
>> > > design
>>
>> > > changed; but, change it did. I used the diagram obtained from the
>> > > document
>> on
>> > > our website, and marked all the places where there is a drain from
>> > > one space
>>
>> > to
>> > > another, and each of the rubber plugs in the stringers.
>> > >
>> > > For those who have the new floor/sole, On "Warr De Mar," after
>> > > removing the
>> > > wood sole, there are a number of bilge spaces created by the
>> > > stringers that
>> > run
>> > > athwart-ship. Some are enclosed by fore-aft plates epoxied between
>> > > the
>> > > stringers. Some of these "bilges" or chambers have a tube or limber
>> > > hole to
>> > > drain into the next bilge space. Some do not. The plugs in the
>> > > stringers are
>>
>> > > after-market mods to allow any water to be drained from within the
>> stringers.
>> > >
>> > > The speedo on these olders hulls is directly under the 2-drawer
>> > > cabinet in
>> the
>> > > V-berth. To remove it, I pull the cabinet to get close to reasonable
>> > > access
>> to
>> > > the speedo. Even so, it is so unwieldy working in this space that
>> > > fully one
>> or
>> > > two cups of water invariably enter the boat. So, before I undertake
>> > > to
>> remove
>> > > the speedo, I first plug and tape the drain tube to the next bilge
>> > > space
>> then
>> > > remove the accumulated water when I'm done. If any moves past the
>> > > taped
>> plug,
>> > > it goes into the space under the sole in the V-berth and then into
>> > > the space
>>
>> > > immediately aft of the bulkhead. That space has no drain pipe. I find
>> > > it
>> > > necessary to pull that part of the sole to check.
>> > >
>> > > Under the table in the salon, behind the mast, there are two bilge
>> > > spaces
>> that
>> > > have no drain and no plug in the stringer. Before I refinished the
>> > > sole,
>> there
>> > > was water in there forever that contributed to the buildup of mildew
>> > > under
>> the
>> > > sole. The mildew had migrated into the wood of the sole and runined
>> > > the
>> finish
>> > > hence the refinishing of the sole. But, that's anothe story. Now, we
>> > > check
>> > > this space twice a year by pulling the table out with the base on and
>> viewing
>> > in
>> > > the bilge space. This fall, we found about a cup of water between the
>> > > two
>> > space
>> > > with no clue to it's source.
>> > >
>> > > Between the bilge space with the pump immediately fwd of the galley
>> > > deck on
>> > > centerline, there is a plug in the fwd-aft place separating this
>> > > space and
>> the
>> > > one to port that is between the galley space and the pump space. The
>> > > way
>> this
>> > > hole was drilled through the fillets, it opened access to the space
>> > > between
>> > the
>> > > stringers. No matter how I try, I don't seem to be able to make this
>> > > water-tight with the rubber plug. Next spring I plan to tape it with
>> > > outdoor
>>
>> > > duct tape. I intend to keep bilge water in the bilge. If anyone has a
>> similar
>> > > experience and can offer a better solution, I surely would appreciate
>> hearing
>> > > it.
>> > >
>> > > Now, if I can get a few consecutive days of stay-at-home weather,
>> > > I'll post
>> my
>> > > sole refinish story on the 320 website along with the Hurth Shop
>> > > Manual that
>>
>> > > covers all of the Hurth gears.
>> > >
>> > > Warren & Pattie Updike
>> > > C320, #62, 1994, "Warr De Mar"
>> > > Frog Mortar Creek, Middle River
>> > > Chesapeake Bay
>> >
>> > __________________________________________________
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