[C320-list] More Yanmar 3GM30F Questions

[mike hunter]

Thank you both!  I ordered a copy from Amazon.com for $25 (still in its shrink-wrap); I can't wait to crack it open.  I read the first couple pages online and it sounds perfect for the do-it-yourselfer.  Maybe I've read too many of Lynn and Larry Pardey's books, but self sufficiency is important for a person who chooses to sail / cruise.  I wonder what the Pardey's would think of the 320?  Anyway, thanks again :^)   

Bryan Martin <bryan.martin at cox.net> wrote:  I'd also recommend purchasing a maintenance manual for your engine. The
Seloc manual for the 3GM30F(http://www.repairmanual.com/marine/63/9272) has
step by step instructions and pictures for most maintenance tasks, including
the one Jeff outlined below. At $40, I think it is worth having on board.

- Bryan
#507

-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Jeff Church
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 7:33 PM
To: C320-List
Subject: Re: [C320-list] More Yanmar 3GM30F Questions

Mike,



I'll take a shot at this, but I'm working from memory so someone might have
to correct some details.



First, adding biocide is a good practice. I put some in the tank at the
first fill of the season and again at the final fill of the season. The
local Yanmar rep also recommends using Cetane booster because of the poor
quality diesel that is generally available.



When you replace the primary (Racor) filter use the 30 micron R15P filter
canister. The secondary filter is a Yanmar part #104500 55710.



You probably should close the fuel valve at the top of the tank before
removing the old filters, but I think there is a one-way valve in the
primary filter bracket that would prevent any fuel flow absent suction from
the pump. Put a 1 gallon plastic bag around the primary filter to minimize
spills when you remove it. If you are a belt and suspenders type, you can
also fashion a tin foil pan underneath it. You might need to use a strap
wrench to remove the filter from the filter bracket and again to remove the
bowl from the filter. On my boat the filter is mounted so close to the hull
that I have to unbolt the filter bracket in order to remove the filter. 



Changing the secondary filter is fairly straight forward. Unscrew the
collar, remove the bowl, install the new element and gaskets, and mop up the
spilled fuel.



You can try to pre-fill the new primary filter before attaching it, but I
find that difficult to do without spilling. Once the new filters are in
place, open the valve at the tank, unscrew the priming pump at the top of
the primary filter bracket, and loosen the banjo fitting at the intake side
of the fuel pump. Operate the priming pump until the primary filter is full
and fuel flows past the banjo fitting without any air bubbles. Re-tighten
the banjo fitting and the priming pump. The rest of the system is bled by
operating the priming pump handle located on the fuel pump. Loosen the bleed
screw on top of the secondary filter, and operate the priming pump handle
until all the air is purged. Tighten the bleed screw. There is another bleed
screw on the injector pump. Open it and operate the priming pump again until
all the air is purged. Tighten the bleed screw. At this point the system is
bled up to the injectors, and I usually start the engine and check to see
how it operates. 



The engine will probably start fairly quickly, but if it cranks more than
the recommended amount of time, drain the muffler. Once it is started it
probably will idle, but it might not run properly under load. Put it in gear
and make sure that it will operate under load. If not, let it run in neutral
for 10 minutes and occasionally rev it up. If that doesn't clear the
injectors, they will need to be bled. Stop the engine, leave the kill switch
pulled out, and position the throttle at full speed. Loosen the flare
(tubing) nut at the first injector and operate the starter for a few seconds
until the air is purged. Re-tighten the flare nut. Drain the muffler if you
have to crank the engine too long (doubtful). Repeat for the 2 other
injectors.



Good luck



JeffC 

----- Original Message ----- 
From: mike hunter 
To: C320-List 
Sent: Tuesday, March 20, 2007 4:24 PM
Subject: [C320-list] More Yanmar 3GM30F Questions


I want to start by thanking everyone involved with this mail list. It is
a blessing for novices such as myself. I have a fair understanding of
gasoline engines after owning a few Volkswagens during my younger years.
They have a way of forcing you to learn. However, my knowledge of diesel
engines is poor, particularly when it comes to the fuel system. From what
I've read it seems the key to a well running diesel is clean fuel. I've
added the biocide treatment and inspected the water/fuel separator under the
primary filter - which is clean. I plan on replacing the filters this
season, but I want to be squared away first; as I'm concerned about bleeding
the injectors incorrectly and for too long, and ultimately backfilling the
motor with seawater. Would someone be so kind as to break down the steps of
replacing them? 

Also, how often should biocide be added to the fuel system for
maintenance treatments?

Thank you!!!

Mike
#637 


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