[C320-list] LYRIS LIST MANAGER

[Jeffrey Hare]

FYI:

Lyris is the software that Sailnet uses to manage its mailing lists.
Sailnet is responsible for deploying Lyris List Manager properly and
managing it appropriately.

What used to happen is that Sailnet enabled email based administration, so
you could subscribe and unsubscribe via email to the list admin address.
They may still allow email based admin.  It used to be possible to see all
the email addresses, accounts and (yes, even what each person ordered online
from the store) for all Sailnet customers. As a result, "bad" people
gathered all those email addresses and send mass-unsubscribe emails to the
list server.  Since they require confirmation, this is why you get the
confirmation emails.

I haven't looked in quite a while, but they may still allow you to request
an "unsubscribe" through the website, knowing only the email address.
Robots can do mass unsubscribe for this easily if they allow it without
logging in.

That's why we don't run our c320 email list with email-based administration
enabled.  It's still possible for clever people to mine/reconstruct some
email addresses out of the list archives with the right software, but at
least they can't hack our list as easily.  And we also don't allow
attachments to avoid spreading ETDs.  :)

My recommendation is to either set up an email filter that simply junks
Lyris List Manager email without ever seeing it, or to actually go in and
unsubscribe from that list.  Occasionally things come in there and it can
get confusing which list you're responding to because they look similar.
Look for "catalina320.com" vs. "sailnet.net" to know which list you're
involved with.

-Jeff

-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Adam Weiner
Sent: Friday, November 09, 2007 12:16 AM
To: 'C320-List'; abuse at lyris.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] LYRIS LIST MANAGER

Last week I went to the Lyris website and have e-mailed 10 or so times
the e-mail address for reporting abuse of the Lyris name.  That address
is abuse at lyris.com.  I am going to call next week since I have not yet
received any response to my e-mails.  Maybe we should all start calling.
If this is valid then I want off their list.  If there is pishing going
on then it seems that they would want to try to stop it.  Ironically the
company is in the SF Bay Area.

Adam

-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Barry Fahrer
Sent: Wednesday, November 07, 2007 12:20 PM
To: C320-List
Subject: Re: [C320-list] LYRIS LIST MANAGER


I  am getting about 10-20 of  " YOUR CONFIRMATION IS NEEDED"  a day.  I 
realize this is coming from an other source such as sail net.  Does
anyone 
know how to eliminate this clutter ?
Thanks;
BARRY --... ...--
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Allan Field" <Allan.Field at comcast.net>
To: "'C320-List'" <c320-list at catalina320.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 31, 2007 7:07 AM
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Backing into slip


Randy - Following is something I wrote several years ago for single
handed docking.  Hope it helps.

Allan S. Field
Sea Shadow - #808
Columbia, MD

SINGLE-HANDED DOCKING

Probably the biggest challenge of single-handed sailing is getting the
boat back into the slip, regardless of the wind and weather conditions,
which may not be the same as when one left the dock.  The techniques I
use for leaving and returning to the dock have been developed over many
years and while they may not be what some would consider the best way,
they work for me.  Note that I neither leave nor enter the slip under
power.  All movements are very slow and gentle with due consideration
for wind velocity and direction. Current in my marina is not an issue.

LEAVING THE DOCK

The first day that Sea Shadow arrived in her new slip was spent setting
the 4 dock lines and 2 spring lines for single-handed departure and
arrival. Several hours were spent alone in getting the 4 dock lines
where I wanted them.  I insist on being able to merely slip the loop end
of the line over the cleat, so the adjustments must account for
virtually all tide situations
- normal, low, high, and astronomical highs and lows.  The lines must be
slack enough to account for all tide situations but not so slack that
the boat will sail into its neighbor during a strong cross breeze.  They
also cannot be so tight that the boat hangs from the cleats in a
significant low tide or pulls the cleats out of the deck when the tide
is too high.  The time spent figuring out this configuration will
greatly enhance one's ability to return regardless of the conditions.

I have been on the boat when I almost needed a ladder to get aboard.
Other times, I have had to jump down onto the deck.  Regardless of tide
levels, I have never seen Sea Shadow (or her predecessor) either hanging
from her lines or having the lines stretched to the maximum.  And the
lines are set so as the boat does not ever hit a piling or a neighbor,
again regardless of tide or wind.  Once during this past winter while
working on the boat, the wind was so strong that the boat was actually
sailing in the slip.  The wind was on the port quarter, pushing the boat
out to the ends of the lines at which point the boat would snap back on
its lines, only to sail away again. This was a day I had to cut my work
down below short due to mild seasickness however at no time was the boat
in danger of hitting anything around it!

Note that Sea Shadow - and its predecessor - never slipped a dock line
in over 17 years of slipping the loop or noose end of the line over the
cleat.

As I come in stern first, the most important line is the spring line,
run from the forward piling to a cleat on the rail just forward of the
jib fairlead.  Obviously, the intent of this line is to prevent the boat
from crashing into the dock stern first.  When I return, this is the
first line that is secured.  Once this line is attached, I know that I
am "attached" to the slip and, if necessary, can wrestle the boat in
hand over hand or with engine assist.  Since the prevailing winds are on
my starboard beam, this line is starboard and also is used to get the
boat started when I pull her out of the slip.

I also use a spring line from an aft piling to a cleat on the opposite
rail. This prevents the boat from extending into the fairway but is not
really part of my single-handed docking routine.

The first 2 lines to be cast off are the crossed stern lines, well
protected with fire hose chafe guard.  I throw them onto the dock and
use a boat hook to retrieve when returning.  If the wind pushes me to
port, since the boat is still attached forward, I am pushed against the
finger pier where no damage is done due to deployment of large fenders.

Next I take the forward spring line off the amidships cleat and, keeping
tension on the line at all times, slowly walk the line forward while
gently pulling the boat towards the forward piling.  Once the forward
dock lines are stretched almost to the maximum, I coil the spring line
and place it on a hook on top of the piling.  I then take the 2 forward
lines off the cleats, hang the leeward line on its piling, and walk the
windward line aft of the pilings and continue to gently pull the boat
out of the slip.  Once the dodger is to the piling, I place the windward
forward line on the hook on its pilings.  At this point, I am pushing
against the piling to keep the boat moving out of the slip and may need
to move side to side, piling to piling, to keep the boat centered and
moving forward.  Once the stern clears the pilings, I move to the wheel,
engage forward gear, and continue on my way.

I have found that trying to motor out of the slip in any kind of
crosswind invariably leads to damaged gear, such as bimini rails, when
the boat rubs too hard against a piling.  By pulling the boat out, the
movement is too gentle to damage anything should the boat graze a
piling.  And if I move slow enough and keep in control, I can usually
get out without hitting the piling, even in a crosswind.

For example, if the wind is on the starboard beam, it is the starboard
forward line that I use to pull the boat out with.  If the wind is
behind me, I let the wind do the work.  If the wind is on my nose, I
just pull harder and only occasionally, require an engine assist.

Prior to leaving the dock, I take 2 10-foot pieces of line and, using a
bowline, affix them to each loop of the dock lines over the forward
cleats. These I use for "control lines" when returning.  More on these
lines later.

RETURNING TO THE DOCK

Once the main is down, I start preparing the boat for docking and do not
enter the Marina until all preparation is complete.  I tie 2 very large
fenders on the port side, rear quarter, where the boat can potentially
hit the finger pier upon returning (or leaving).  I lay these fenders on
the deck, versus pushing them over the side, and they remain there until
they clear the forward piling.  At that point, a kick sends them over
the side before the boat gets back to the finger pier.

Small fenders also are placed amidships, one each side, again laying on
the deck, ready to be kicked over as they clear the forward pilings.
These are to protect against accidentally hitting my neighbors.

One thing I have not figured out how to prevent is the fenders catching
on the forward pilings as I pull the boat out.  If I pull them up on the
deck before they get to the pilings and accidentally bump my neighbor,
this would not be a good thing.  So I leave them down and live with the
drag against the piling as I pull out.

Next I get the boat hook out and have it fully extended with the butt
end down in the main cabin and the hook end just sticking out the main
hatch, ready to grab when required for retrieval of the stern lines
lying on the dock.

My slip is to port about midway down the fairway.  Approaching the slip,
I have just enough forward speed to maintain control over the rudder.  I
alternate between neutral and forward, trying to take virtually all
forward motion off before turning out to starboard.

If the wind is going to hit me on the starboard beam as I turn out (and
this usually is the prevailing wind direction), I start my turn as the
bow crosses the stern-in boat next to mine.  As I turn, I put the gear
in reverse.  When the boat is perpendicular to the dock, I gently start
increasing the RPM's until forward motion is completely stopped and the
boat starts to move in reverse, almost directly in the direction of my
neighbor's stern.  As the prop throws the boat to port, along with that
starboard beam wind assist, what looks like a ploy to ram my neighbor
stern to stern actually becomes a gentle and controlled backing into the
slip.  Every time I nail the pilings perfectly, I want to award myself 3
points for a "Field Goal"! (groan!)

For any other wind conditions (port, nose, stern) I start the turn when
the bow reaches the first piling of my slip.  If the wind is coming from
the port side, which is very rare, I back up a little (which throws the
boat to port, the direction I don't want to go), pull forward (which
throws the stern back to starboard which is what I want), then back up
again to get the proper alignment for entry into the slip.

As soon as the stern clears the forward pilings, I stop the boat with
forward thrust and grab the spring line and affix it to the cleat.  I am
now attached to the slip.  I then grab the forward dock lines and this
is the point at which the "control lines" come in use.  Once the mast
clears the forward pilings, and the fenders have been kicked over the
side, I stand amidships at the bow and, using the control lines and
shifting my weight side-to-side, am able to control the direction of the
stern.  Pull on the starboard control/dock line and the stern moves to
port; pull on the port control/dock line and the stern moves to
starboard.  Again, the movements are gentle, slow, and subtle.  Guiding
the boat with the control lines and weight-shifting while also using the
lines to pull the boat into the slip makes for an orderly and
trauma-free docking. and no yelling!

Once the boat is centered in the slip and the forward lines are over
their respective cleats, I move aft and, using the pre-deployed boat
hook retrieve and set the stern dock lines.

Probably the biggest mistake I could make is to not attach the control
lines prior to departure.  On Sea Shadow, the lines are red and hang on
the forward pulpit directly over the forward cleats when not in use.  It
would take a great deal of effort even for me to miss them!

DOCKING AT A NEW DOCK

Occasionally, we spend the night at a distant Marina.  Again, we tend to
come stern in as we feel that getting on and off the boat is safer from
the stern, plus we like to be part of the passing crowds on the dock!

The process is basically the same as above except that there are no
lines already on the pilings.  The technique here is to stop the boat
once it clears the forward pilings and get forward lines and a spring
line attached. Stern lines are already affixed to the cleat so that once
the boat is pulled back to the end of the spring line, I can jump to the
dock or finger pier with the stern lines and tie them off.  Again, the
fenders are out on the finger pier side of the slip.  I have done this
many times by myself and once in a 45-knot crosswind during a storm.  It
wasn't pretty but I did get in.

I would like to think that my success at single-handed docking is a
result of thinking ahead each step of the way and having a plan for all
conditions. Alas, I know this not to be so.  Rather, my docking wisdom
is like all my wisdom and life experiences - that which is left over
after all the mistakes have been made!  Even with crew aboard, I expect
and receive no help.  While my docking skills increase with each
successful docking, the downside is that no one else, including the Best
Mate, has any experience in getting the boat into the slip.  I can only
pray that this does not come back to haunt me someday.

-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Randy Averill
Sent: Monday, October 29, 2007 10:42 PM
To: 'C320-List'
Subject: [C320-list] Backing into slip

Another new owner question.

I've had my 320 for less than a month and my biggest problem right now
is parking.  My previous boat was much smaller and lighter, and I
learned to maneuver it into the slip rather easily with its outboard
motor and tiller. Now I would greatly appreciate the voice of experience
helping me out.

I approached my first couple times into the new slip with the 320 with
great caution.  This boat can coast a long way and I can't afford to
overshoot my slip (I'm at the end of the runway) so I slowed to a crawl.
I used a "Y" approach in that I came forward down the runway to my slip,
turned hard to port (away from the slip), and then backed in after
completing a 90 degree turn to port.  I actually parked fairly well, but
it took forever because I was going so slowly.

Last time out was my first problem because there was some wind blowing
me into the dock.  I think if I came in faster the wind would have less
effect (i.e., it would have less time to blow me around), but I don't
know how fast is too fast.  Does anybody have a rule of thumb you could
offer?  If you're coming in a idle, how early do you put your
transmission in neutral?  How much time to stop the boat with reverse?
Any good way to get a better feel for this on open water?  I'm not sure
I trust my ability to transfer the open water experience to the marina
because it's so tight.  Any good stories to make me laugh and relax?


Randy Averill
Tesoro (#29)