[C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding

[Larry Frank]

One other suggestion. Sometimes the clear plastic bowl can be difficult to
remove from the filter.  I keep a second spare clear plastic bowl assembled
to a filter so if I need to change a filter in a hurry I can do it faster.

Larry


-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Scott Thompson
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 8:49 AM
To: C320-List
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding

All excellent advice.  In steps 2 and 3 I find it very handy to use an 
oil filter wrench of some sort on the Racor cartridge.

The Racor filter element should come with a new gasket.  I forget if it 
also includes a new O-ring for the bowl.  When you are removing the 
filter element from the Racor in step 2, pay careful attention to the 
orientation of the gasket on top.  It has a top and a bottom and is not 
symmetrical.  If you reinstall the new one upside down then it will 
leak.  By looking at the old one when you remove it you can learn which 
is the top.  I need to write this down in my service notes, but somehow 
never have.

At the beginning of step 9, do not start the engine while the bleed 
screws are still open.  They need to be closed first.

I usually replace the Yanmar secondary filter on the engine at the same 
time as the Racor.  It's cheap and I'm bleeding the system anyway, so 
why not.  You have to pump more fuel during the bleeding process this 
way, but with the little pump on the Racor that's easy.  Plus the 
lifting and tapping in step 6 seems to be unnecessary when you do both 
at once.


Jeffrey Hare wrote:
> Hi Crosby,
> 
> If the clear bowl does not have any water or sediment, then there's simply
> no reason to bleed it from the bottom of the filter.  That's just how you
> drain excess water from the separator should it collect any.  And if you
are
> just draining the water/sediment from the bowl, you want to leave the fuel
> tank stopcock open.  Then there will be no need to bleed anything after
> doing this, as you've not introduced any air into the system.
> 
> When changing the Racor filter, that's a different story.  You should do
> this with a full fuel tank so that you have an easier time with the
bleeding
> process.
> 
> 1) In this case, you would shut off the fuel tank stopcock.
> 
> 2) Unscrew the Racor filter (leaving the plastic bowl in place at this
> point).  Many people use large ziplock bags slipped up around the filter
to
> keep any diesel from spilling into the bilge.
> 
> 3) Unscrew the bowl from the bottom of the Racor, clean it and put it back
> on the new filter, reinstall the new one not too tight.
> 
> 4) Reopen the fuel stopcock.
> 
> 5) Loosen the flat white plastic cap flush on the top of the filter and
this
> should allow fuel to free-flow and fill the filter and bowl.  When you get
> clean fuel with no bubbles out of the top of the filter vent, tighten the
> cap up and move on to the next step.  (replacing the engine mounted
filter,
> or just bleeding the line)
> 
> 6) On the top of the engine-mounted fuel filter, there should be a bleed
> screw. If done properly, this should be the only other place you need to
> bleed air from.  I suggest following the fuel hose from the Racor and
> lifting it and tapping on it to move any bubbles that may be in the line
to
> work their way up to the secondary filter on the engine.  
> 
> 7) Once you're pretty sure any major bubbles have moved along, loosen the
> bleed screw on the top of the engine mounted filter, and slip a ziplock
bag
> around it.
> 
> 8) There is a white plastic knob on the top of the Racor.  It is a manual
> fuel pump and works much better than the fuel lifter lever on the engine.
> Unscrew this and gently/slowly pump this until you get no bubbles out of
the
> engine filter's bleed screw.
> 
> 9) Run the engine for at least 15 minutes and if possible put it in gear
> after the engine is warm.  If it stalls, then you didn't get all the air
out
> and you'll likely need to bleed one more place (but not at the injectors).
> Find the high pressure fuel pump where the thin metal fuel tubes exit to
> feed the injectors.  This unit has a bleed screw and just loosening this
> screw should vent the remaining air. You could try pumping the racor pump
> again to be sure you get just fuel, no bubbles or foam.
> 
> There are more clearly written procedures for this elsewhere, but I didn't
> have them on hand.
> 
> By the way, You should be using an R15S filter 2 micron (not an R15P) for
> both the Racor and the engine mounted filter.  That's what the Yanmar
Techs
> and our local Yanmar Dealer/installer recommend.  It's just silly to use a
> fine engine mounted filter preceeded by a 10, 15 or 20 micron filter on
the
> Racor, because now you're practically guaranteed to need to change both
> filters every time you change a clogged or dirty Racor.
> 
> The engine mounted filter is really just a trap for anything that gets by
> the racor during filter changes.
> 
> -Jeff H.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com
> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Crosby Roper
> Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 12:56 PM
> To: c320-list at catalina320.com
> Subject: [C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding
> 
> Hi all,
>  
> I need some advice on bleeding the primary fule filter (Racor RP15) on my
> yanmar Y3M30. The clear jar at the bottom does not reveal any water or
> sediment, but I have not done it before and it's well overdue. Two basic
> questions
>  
> 1) Do I leave the stopcock from the fuel tank open or closed when bleeding
> from the bottom of the filter?
>  
> 2) Will I need to bleed air from the system after I do this, and if so can
I
> stop bleeding at the secondary filter or do I need to bleed all the way to
> the injectors.
>  
> Any advice is appreciated (unless its bad....)
>  
>  
> Crosby Roper
> Tehtys Hull # 1504
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