[C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding

Sun Sep 2 18:07:52 PDT 2007

My new Yanmar 3YM-30 came from the factory with the R15p Racor filter.
__
Kurt R. Budelmann
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jeffrey Hare" <Catalina at thehares.com>
To: "'C320-List'" <c320-list at catalina320.com>
Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 2:59 PM
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding


> Well, I guess the best logical explanation we seem to be getting here is 
> "my
> guy says so" which doesn't do much to appease the engineer in me. :)
>
> Perhaps we should find another person at the Yanmar factory and ask them
> too.  The Yanmar factory guy we asked last year at the C320 regatta said
> Yanmar switched to using 2 micron filters.  10 years ago they probably 
> WERE
> installing 10 or 15 micron filtration systems on the engine.  I don't
> question whether our local diesel goddesses are capable and amazing
> mechanics, just whether they are fully current with Yanmar's current
> recommendations?
>
> I guess since Yanmar factory ships our engines today with 2 (or 3?) micron
> engine filters installed, that tells me anyway that they want 2 micron
> filtration protection for their injectors. I guess however you get that
> level of filtration, by the time the fuel gets to the injectors, is 
> probably
> just fine.
>
> Here's the reasoning I'm following anyway:
> =========================================
> Since the engine mounted filter is so physically small and has so little
> filtration surface area, that I just consider it a "last chance" filter.
> It'll clog pretty quickly if I get really bad fuel or stir up the gunk on
> the bottom of the tank.  If I use the large surface area of the Racor as 
> my
> main filter and separator, I'll never have to change the engine filter in 
> an
> emergency, just the primary.
>
> If you think about it, if you get dirty fuel, it's going to have more
> suspended fine material than big stuff, so the big stuff probably won't 
> clog
> the larger Racor before the fine material clogs the engine mounted filter.
> My goal was to avoid ever having to change both filters underway if I got 
> a
> clog.  The engine is going to be HOT and changing the engine mounted 
> filter
> in rolling seas on a hot engine isn't my idea of joy. I'd rather just
> quickly change the Racor, bleed a little air from the secondary and be 
> back
> topside as quick as possible (retaining my lunch preferably). :)
>
> All that said, I have a single 2micron filter on my tractor's yanmar 
> diesel
> engine fuel line that's about the same size as our 3GM engine filter. It
> hasn't clogged up in almost 9 years (550 very dusty engine hours).  So, in
> the end, maybe it's not that critical.  (Hmm... Maybe it's time to change
> that one...)
>
> Good luck with whatever choices you make!
>
> Cheers!
> -Jeff
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com
> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Kurt Budelmann
> Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 9:57 AM
> To: C320-List
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding
>
> FWIW, my Yanmar dealer, Inland Marine Diesel recommended against using the 
> 2
>
> micron primary filter and instead recommended the 30 micron filter, R15p.
>
> __
> Kurt Budelmann
> Everwind, Catalina 320, #1035
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Scott Thompson" <sthompson at toad.net>
> To: "C320-List" <c320-list at catalina320.com>
> Sent: Friday, August 31, 2007 9:49 AM
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding
>
>
>> All excellent advice.  In steps 2 and 3 I find it very handy to use an 
>> oil
>
>> filter wrench of some sort on the Racor cartridge.
>>
>> The Racor filter element should come with a new gasket.  I forget if it
>> also includes a new O-ring for the bowl.  When you are removing the 
>> filter
>
>> element from the Racor in step 2, pay careful attention to the 
>> orientation
>
>> of the gasket on top.  It has a top and a bottom and is not symmetrical.
>> If you reinstall the new one upside down then it will leak.  By looking 
>> at
>
>> the old one when you remove it you can learn which is the top.  I need to
>> write this down in my service notes, but somehow never have.
>>
>> At the beginning of step 9, do not start the engine while the bleed 
>> screws
>
>> are still open.  They need to be closed first.
>>
>> I usually replace the Yanmar secondary filter on the engine at the same
>> time as the Racor.  It's cheap and I'm bleeding the system anyway, so why
>> not.  You have to pump more fuel during the bleeding process this way, 
>> but
>
>> with the little pump on the Racor that's easy.  Plus the lifting and
>> tapping in step 6 seems to be unnecessary when you do both at once.
>>
>>
>> Jeffrey Hare wrote:
>>> Hi Crosby,
>>>
>>> If the clear bowl does not have any water or sediment, then there's
>>> simply
>>> no reason to bleed it from the bottom of the filter.  That's just how 
>>> you
>>> drain excess water from the separator should it collect any.  And if you
>>> are
>>> just draining the water/sediment from the bowl, you want to leave the
>>> fuel
>>> tank stopcock open.  Then there will be no need to bleed anything after
>>> doing this, as you've not introduced any air into the system.
>>>
>>> When changing the Racor filter, that's a different story.  You should do
>>> this with a full fuel tank so that you have an easier time with the
>>> bleeding
>>> process.
>>>
>>> 1) In this case, you would shut off the fuel tank stopcock.
>>>
>>> 2) Unscrew the Racor filter (leaving the plastic bowl in place at this
>>> point).  Many people use large ziplock bags slipped up around the filter
>>> to
>>> keep any diesel from spilling into the bilge.
>>>
>>> 3) Unscrew the bowl from the bottom of the Racor, clean it and put it
>>> back
>>> on the new filter, reinstall the new one not too tight.
>>>
>>> 4) Reopen the fuel stopcock.
>>>
>>> 5) Loosen the flat white plastic cap flush on the top of the filter and
>>> this
>>> should allow fuel to free-flow and fill the filter and bowl.  When you
>>> get
>>> clean fuel with no bubbles out of the top of the filter vent, tighten 
>>> the
>>> cap up and move on to the next step.  (replacing the engine mounted
>>> filter,
>>> or just bleeding the line)
>>>
>>> 6) On the top of the engine-mounted fuel filter, there should be a bleed
>>> screw. If done properly, this should be the only other place you need to
>>> bleed air from.  I suggest following the fuel hose from the Racor and
>>> lifting it and tapping on it to move any bubbles that may be in the line
>>> to
>>> work their way up to the secondary filter on the engine.  7) Once you're
>>> pretty sure any major bubbles have moved along, loosen the
>>> bleed screw on the top of the engine mounted filter, and slip a ziplock
>>> bag
>>> around it.
>>>
>>> 8) There is a white plastic knob on the top of the Racor.  It is a 
>>> manual
>>> fuel pump and works much better than the fuel lifter lever on the 
>>> engine.
>>> Unscrew this and gently/slowly pump this until you get no bubbles out of
>>> the
>>> engine filter's bleed screw.
>>>
>>> 9) Run the engine for at least 15 minutes and if possible put it in gear
>>> after the engine is warm.  If it stalls, then you didn't get all the air
>>> out
>>> and you'll likely need to bleed one more place (but not at the
>>> injectors).
>>> Find the high pressure fuel pump where the thin metal fuel tubes exit to
>>> feed the injectors.  This unit has a bleed screw and just loosening this
>>> screw should vent the remaining air. You could try pumping the racor 
>>> pump
>>> again to be sure you get just fuel, no bubbles or foam.
>>>
>>> There are more clearly written procedures for this elsewhere, but I
>>> didn't
>>> have them on hand.
>>>
>>> By the way, You should be using an R15S filter 2 micron (not an R15P) 
>>> for
>>> both the Racor and the engine mounted filter.  That's what the Yanmar
>>> Techs
>>> and our local Yanmar Dealer/installer recommend.  It's just silly to use
>>> a
>>> fine engine mounted filter preceeded by a 10, 15 or 20 micron filter on
>>> the
>>> Racor, because now you're practically guaranteed to need to change both
>>> filters every time you change a clogged or dirty Racor.
>>>
>>> The engine mounted filter is really just a trap for anything that gets 
>>> by
>>> the racor during filter changes.
>>>
>>> -Jeff H.
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com
>>> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Crosby Roper
>>> Sent: Thursday, August 30, 2007 12:56 PM
>>> To: c320-list at catalina320.com
>>> Subject: [C320-list] Fuel filter bleeding
>>>
>>> Hi all,
>>>  I need some advice on bleeding the primary fule filter (Racor RP15) on
>>> my
>>> yanmar Y3M30. The clear jar at the bottom does not reveal any water or
>>> sediment, but I have not done it before and it's well overdue. Two basic
>>> questions
>>>  1) Do I leave the stopcock from the fuel tank open or closed when
>>> bleeding
>>> from the bottom of the filter?
>>>  2) Will I need to bleed air from the system after I do this, and if so
>>> can I
>>> stop bleeding at the secondary filter or do I need to bleed all the way
>>> to
>>> the injectors.
>>>  Any advice is appreciated (unless its bad....)
>>>  Crosby Roper
>>> Tehtys Hull # 1504
>>> _________________________________________________________________
>>> Explore the seven wonders of the world
>>> http://search.msn.com/results.aspx?q=7+wonders+world&mkt=en-US&form=QBRE
>>>
>>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>