[C320-list] DOWN: Windlass, ST 60s, ST4000+...UP:~12 V in rail...

[Chris Burti]

No answers, some thoughts.

Your hull is close enough to mine that you may have the speaker wires
installed under the seats by the factory as ours does. it is 12-2 wiring and
looks like 120v house wiring. Your prior owner may have hooked them up to
something like a 12v light instead of speakers and they may be shorting
where they pass the through the hole in the tubing at  the base where you
can't see it or under the seat where you can.

You don't have to cut fiberglass to get at the windlass, it just makes it
easier. You can remove the wood paneling and access it for testing,it is not
a bad job. I'd bet the breaker would go before the windlass in most cases,
so I'd start there.

I don't think it is very likely that the two problems are related.

There is a grub screw on the anemometer that holds the vane to the shaft on
the masthead transducer, if it is loose, your wind instrument will never
hold calibration and it will act loopy. I wonder if the techies at Ray will
get the two Chris's confused as I am also dealing with that issue right now
as well. My problems were created initially by a lateral from a lightning
strike on a neighbor's boat two years ago, but it is a low priority for me.

On Wed, Jul 9, 2008 at 3:53 PM, Chris Willems <inquire at snet.net> wrote:

> I'm hoping this story has some evidence which will
> help you to help me solve this (de)evolving problem...
>  This is a long email, but I think the answer (or
> clues?) may be in the details...
>
> Our story begins shortly after we took delivery of
> #828 "Chrysalis" late last August (2007).  I had just
> enjoyed a great swim off our luxurious transom, when
> upon grabbing the stern pulpit I felt a shock.  I did
> have a bit of a cut on my hand, so thought it might
> just be the open flesh on metal.  I did investigate
> with the crappy multimeter I had, and found there was
> some current going through the rail.  I recently
> tested it with a new multimeter, and at various points
> around the boat, it is live.  The stern rail reads
> about 11.8 V and the bow is about 11.9 V.   My
> batteries are giving off 12.67 and 12.78 at their
> terminals.
>
> This electricity may be why I'm getting a lot of
> corrosion at the stanchion base - the fiberglass deck
> has gotten fairly rusty on the bow stanchions.
>
> The windlass stopped working in September.  The
> circuit breaker in the main saloon no longer lit.  I
> am not brave enough to cut away the fiberglass in the
> forepeak as heroic Jeff Hare demonstrated on the C320
> web site... I may have to go down that road, but she's
> too new to go and cut her all up like that... gulp...
>
> So this spring, after using West Marine's stripper to
> strip all the old bottom paint off (it was flaking all
> over the place).  I wanted to hire a soda blaster guy,
> but my yard would not allow that.  I recoated with
> Micron 66 and hope not to do that job for a few years.
>  We rebedded all large deck hatches (they leaked), and
> a full schedule of other maintenance jobs, including a
> stuffing box that I may need to repack I'm the hot
> stuffing box guy,  We launched in late June.
>
> In a seeming insult upon injury, the instrument
> cluster is all a twitter.  I've been in touch with Ray
> (yes, at this point we are on a first name basis) and
> progress is being made.  So far I've been happy with
> their support.  I I need to recalibrate the ST60 wind
> and check the paddle for functionality...
>
> I learned to sail on a sunfish.  That is a great boat
> with no electronics.  Shame it's too tippy for the
> admiral.
>
> Seriously, we love our new boat.  Thanks to anyone who
> has read this far, and for chiming in if you've dealt
> with any/all of these issues... perhaps multiple
> times...
>
> Chris Willems & Lisa Peccini
> "Chrysalis" #828
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-- 
Chris Burti
Farmville, NC