[C320-list] DOWN: Windlass, ST 60s, ST4000+...UP:~12 V in rail...

[John Frost]

Chris, sorry to hear of your woes. They hurt when they build up like that.

I don't think anything downstream of the circuit breaker could make its
light go out unless an overload is tripping it. Specifically, the windlass
isn't even in the circuit 'till you press the go button on deck. 

I'd start by putting your voltmeter on the back of the breaker to make sure
it has power from the battery. If you do, disconnect the output wire from
the breaker and try to reset it. If it trips, you have a bad breaker. If it
doesn't trip, reattach the output wire and see if it trips w/o pressing the
foot button. If it does, you have a short in the wire from the breaker to
the button. If it trips only when you press the button, you either have a
bad windlass or weak breaker, a DC current tester will tell you which. Good
luck with your Gremlins!

By the way, we learned on a Sea Snark (which we still have) 35 years ago,
and though we loved it, the 320 wins hands down around here.

John Frost
2007 C320 MKII, Hull # 1118
Lake Guntesville, AL
-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Chris Willems
Sent: Wednesday, July 09, 2008 2:54 PM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: [C320-list] DOWN: Windlass, ST 60s, ST4000+...UP:~12 V in rail...

I'm hoping this story has some evidence which will
help you to help me solve this (de)evolving problem...
 This is a long email, but I think the answer (or
clues?) may be in the details...

Our story begins shortly after we took delivery of
#828 "Chrysalis" late last August (2007).  I had just
enjoyed a great swim off our luxurious transom, when
upon grabbing the stern pulpit I felt a shock.  I did
have a bit of a cut on my hand, so thought it might
just be the open flesh on metal.  I did investigate
with the crappy multimeter I had, and found there was
some current going through the rail.  I recently
tested it with a new multimeter, and at various points
around the boat, it is live.  The stern rail reads
about 11.8 V and the bow is about 11.9 V.   My
batteries are giving off 12.67 and 12.78 at their
terminals.

This electricity may be why I'm getting a lot of
corrosion at the stanchion base - the fiberglass deck
has gotten fairly rusty on the bow stanchions.

The windlass stopped working in September.  The
circuit breaker in the main saloon no longer lit.  I
am not brave enough to cut away the fiberglass in the
forepeak as heroic Jeff Hare demonstrated on the C320
web site... I may have to go down that road, but she's
too new to go and cut her all up like that... gulp...

So this spring, after using West Marine's stripper to
strip all the old bottom paint off (it was flaking all
over the place).  I wanted to hire a soda blaster guy,
but my yard would not allow that.  I recoated with
Micron 66 and hope not to do that job for a few years.
 We rebedded all large deck hatches (they leaked), and
a full schedule of other maintenance jobs, including a
stuffing box that I may need to repack I'm the hot
stuffing box guy,  We launched in late June.

In a seeming insult upon injury, the instrument
cluster is all a twitter.  I've been in touch with Ray
(yes, at this point we are on a first name basis) and
progress is being made.  So far I've been happy with
their support.  I I need to recalibrate the ST60 wind
and check the paddle for functionality...

I learned to sail on a sunfish.  That is a great boat
with no electronics.  Shame it's too tippy for the
admiral.

Seriously, we love our new boat.  Thanks to anyone who
has read this far, and for chiming in if you've dealt
with any/all of these issues... perhaps multiple
times...

Chris Willems & Lisa Peccini
"Chrysalis" #828