[C320-list] DOWN: Windlass, ST 60s, ST4000+...UP:~12 V in rail...

[Chris Burti]

Sunny,
It has been a while, but as I recall there was a bit more wood work behind
the panel that had to be removed to get access to the motor. I did not cut
any fiberglass. I installed a stainless hose bib and related plumbing for my
anchor washdown system in the well just below the motor..

I had a further thought on the breaker. Mine is very hard to operate.
Sometimes I push it and pull it several times to get to where it will
work with only modest difficulty.

You may not have speakers installed, but Catalina installed the wiring fro,
the aft locker through the stern pulpit exiting under the seats on our #867
which is less than a year newer than yours. it looks like house wiring.  If
you have those same wires and someone hooked a 12v supply to them, it would
suggest a solution to your problem

On Wed, Jul 9, 2008 at 9:16 PM, Chris Willems <inquire at snet.net> wrote:

> Thanks for the feedback, Chris Burti.  We have no
> speakers.  No installed stereo.  Instead we have a
> portable EGO waterproof ipod player that fits the bill
> nicely!  It follows us all over the boat, providing
> fine sounds along the way.
>
> I pulled the wood panel in the forepeak today, and
> didn't think I could easily get past the fiberglass to
> the windlass.  Do you pull it back or push it in, or
> is there another dimension I am not considering?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Chris Willems #828 Chrysalis
> (to save confusion among the Chrisses, you can use my
> nickname, Sunshine.  Seriously, I earned this one from
> friends.  It's probably because I'm such a freakin'
> sunny optimist... buying a big boat... what was I
> thinking???)
>
> ****
>
> No answers, some thoughts.
>
> Your hull is close enough to mine that you may have
> the speaker wires
> installed under the seats by the factory as ours does.
> it is 12-2 wiring and
> looks like 120v house wiring. Your prior owner may
> have hooked them up to
> something like a 12v light instead of speakers and
> they may be shorting
> where they pass the through the hole in the tubing at
> the base where you
> can't see it or under the seat where you can.
>
> You don't have to cut fiberglass to get at the
> windlass, it just makes it
> easier. You can remove the wood paneling and access it
> for testing,it is not
> a bad job. I'd bet the breaker would go before the
> windlass in most cases,
> so I'd start there.
>
> I don't think it is very likely that the two problems
> are related.
>
> There is a grub screw on the anemometer that holds the
> vane to the shaft on
> the masthead transducer, if it is loose, your wind
> instrument will never
> hold calibration and it will act loopy. I wonder if
> the techies at Ray will
> get the two Chris's confused as I am also dealing with
> that issue right now
> as well. My problems were created initially by a
> lateral from a lightning
> strike on a neighbor's boat two years ago, but it is a
> low priority for me.
>
> On Wed, Jul 9, 2008 at 3:53 PM, Chris Willems <inquire
>  at snet.net> wrote:
>
> > I'm hoping this story has some evidence which will
> > help you to help me solve this (de)evolving
> problem...
> >  This is a long email, but I think the answer (or
> > clues?) may be in the details...
> >
> > Our story begins shortly after we took delivery of
> > #828 "Chrysalis" late last August (2007).  I had
> just
> > enjoyed a great swim off our luxurious transom, when
> > upon grabbing the stern pulpit I felt a shock.  I
> did
> > have a bit of a cut on my hand, so thought it might
> > just be the open flesh on metal.  I did investigate
> > with the crappy multimeter I had, and found there
> was
> > some current going through the rail.  I recently
> > tested it with a new multimeter, and at various
> points
> > around the boat, it is live.  The stern rail reads
> > about 11.8 V and the bow is about 11.9 V.   My
> > batteries are giving off 12.67 and 12.78 at their
> > terminals.
> >
> > This electricity may be why I'm getting a lot of
> > corrosion at the stanchion base - the fiberglass
> deck
> > has gotten fairly rusty on the bow stanchions.
> >
> > The windlass stopped working in September.  The
> > circuit breaker in the main saloon no longer lit.  I
> > am not brave enough to cut away the fiberglass in
> the
> > forepeak as heroic Jeff Hare demonstrated on the
> C320
> > web site... I may have to go down that road, but
> she's
> > too new to go and cut her all up like that...
> gulp...
> >
> > So this spring, after using West Marine's stripper
> to
> > strip all the old bottom paint off (it was flaking
> all
> > over the place).  I wanted to hire a soda blaster
> guy,
> > but my yard would not allow that.  I recoated with
> > Micron 66 and hope not to do that job for a few
> years.
> >  We rebedded all large deck hatches (they leaked),
> and
> > a full schedule of other maintenance jobs, including
> a
> > stuffing box that I may need to repack I'm the hot
> > stuffing box guy,  We launched in late June.
> >
> > In a seeming insult upon injury, the instrument
> > cluster is all a twitter.  I've been in touch with
> Ray
> > (yes, at this point we are on a first name basis)
> and
> > progress is being made.  So far I've been happy with
> > their support.  I I need to recalibrate the ST60
> wind
> > and check the paddle for functionality...
> >
> > I learned to sail on a sunfish.  That is a great
> boat
> > with no electronics.  Shame it's too tippy for the
> > admiral.
> >
> > Seriously, we love our new boat.  Thanks to anyone
> who
> > has read this far, and for chiming in if you've
> dealt
> > with any/all of these issues... perhaps multiple
> > times...
> >
> > Chris Willems & Lisa Peccini
> > "Chrysalis" #828
> >
>



-- 
Chris Burti
Farmville, NC