[C320-list] DOWN: Windlass, ST 60s, ST4000+...UP:~12 V in rail...

[Chris Burti]

Ok I gave it a shot. we'll see how it goes, thanks.

On Sun, Jul 13, 2008 at 7:13 PM, Jon Vez <jonvez at comcast.net> wrote:

> Chris,
>
> Try spraying the impeller with Boeshield T9--it keeps the growth off for
> quite a while and you may get away with not pulling it for a few weeks at a
> time. If I use my boat weekly, I can go a whole season. If I don't go out
> for awhile, it will initially not spin, but after a little time under way
> it
> will kick in...just a thought...
>
> Regards,
>
> Jon Vez
> Solstice #582
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Chris Burti
> Sent: Saturday, July 12, 2008 8:10 AM
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] DOWN: Windlass, ST 60s, ST4000+...UP:~12 V in
> rail...
>
> A few more thoughts:
> Cut a 4" square out of a milk bottle and slip it over the wire bundle to
> see
> if it gets your stray voltage to zero.
>
> The bare wire that caused your short is still bare. If you don't repair it,
> corrosion will make the wire fail sooner or later. Figure out how to label,
> disconnect and pull the wire bundle far enough to get access for a proper
> repair.
>
> On my speed instrument, I have to struggle to get the impeller seated
> tightly enough to get a good reading. It seems as if there is about a 1mm
> critical difference on mine. it can be seated tight and no leakage and no
> reading. I pull it to make sure the impeller is not fouled(and pointing int
> the correct direction) replace and still no go. then push hard on the
> insert, tighten the ring...no go..repeat and it will finally read. The most
> annoying thing about this process is that I have to do it every time we
> return to the boat as the impeller will foul in a week in the summer here
> if
> I don't pull it. The second most annoying thing is this is the only source
> of water in my otherwise dry bilge.
>
> Speed and wind instruments are interdependent. If your speed impeller is
> not
> reading correctly, your wind can't calculate actual from apparent. If the
> impeller is not working and the SeaTalk cable between the two is not
> properly connected,neither will appear to work.
>
> Don't forget to check the grub screw at the top of the mast on the wind
> sending unit.
>
> On Fri, Jul 11, 2008 at 8:17 PM, Chris Willems <inquire at snet.net> wrote:
>
> > So you're not going to believe this...
> >
> > I disconnected the stern pulpit from the safety lines
> > today.  No current in stern pulpit.  Moved forward,
> > still in starboard lines and bow pulpit.  Disconnected
> > bow pulpit on starboard side, still charged...
> >
> > Disconnected port side safety lines - NO POWER IN
> > PULPIT!!! hmmm... moved astern and found the port side
> > stanchion, the one just forward of the cockpit (with
> > the brace, welded so it looks like an "h") was live.
> >
> > First attempt was to see how I could get at it.  Went
> > through cockpit locker - on go.  Went through aft
> > galley cabinet and was able to feel up to wires.
> > Tried to unscrew stanchion screws - this was a
> > mistake.  The after one will not tighten back down,
> > and I can't find/feel a nut below.  Perhaps this was
> > the live one, and it corroded the baseplate?  What are
> > the baseplates made of?
> >
> > So I gently moved wires from near the base of the
> > stanchion, clipped one zip tie to loosen the mass a
> > bit... and the readings dropped from near 12V to
> > 0.19V... what do you think about this?
> >
> > Now here's the bad news... Lisa and I are going to be
> > away for the boat for the next week...  There will be
> > a pause in my DIY boat improvement drama (a collective
> > phew was heard!).  I will check email and take dutiful
> > notes as to what my next steps will be.  I feel we're
> > getting close to solving these electrical problems:
> >
> > Windlass - CHECK
> > Autohelm - @ Raytheon, being "reprogrammed" with new
> > software.
> >
> > To Do:
> > ST60 speed & ST60 wind - TBD
> > Get last of electricity (0.19V) out of rails.
> >
> > Thanks so much for your help!
> >
> > Chris Willems, "Chrysalis" #828
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > more thoughts:
> >
> > On my boat the only circuit active when the battery
> > switch is on NONE
> > is the automatic bilge pump, which is wired to bypass
> > the battery
> > selector.  It does go through a breaker on the panel,
> > however.  You
> > might shut off the breaker to see if it makes a
> > difference.  The bilge
> > pump float switch, being located in the bilge, has all
> > kinds of
> > potential for causing stray current leaks, especially
> > if the bilge is damp.
> >
> > Think about disconnecting each battery at the battery
> > terminals as the
> > ultimate way to isolate sources.
> >
> > The pulpits may be bonded to ground somehow.  If both
> > pulpits are
> > energized even when the lifelines are disconnected
> > then the problem is
> > likely related to a common ground for the pulpits that
> > is not
> > sufficiently well bonded to battery ground and is
> > somehow getting a
> > stray current.
> >
> > Scott
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Chris Burti
> Farmville, NC
>
>


-- 
Chris Burti
Farmville, NC