[C320-list] Rub rail loose
Chuck and Kathy
katchu at chartermi.net
Mon May 19 15:32:45 PDT 2008
I replaced my rub rail this year. The best way to do it is to heat the rub
rail material with a heat gun, and then push it in from the top. The
temperature of the rub rail material makes a huge difference.
Chuck Mueller
Northwind #676
-----Original Message-----
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Subject: C320-list Digest, Vol 99, Issue 1
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: ST 4000 autohelm problem (Monte B.)
2. Re: ST 4000 autohelm problem (bruceheyman at cox.net)
3. Re: Maximum Stop to Stop Wheel Turn Capability (Monte B.)
4. Coolant leak (Robert Seastream)
5. Re: Coolant leak (Allan S. Field)
6. Re: Coolant leak (Robert Seastream)
7. Re: Coolant leak (Monte B.)
8. Rub Rail Coating? (Gates)
9. Re: Coolant leak (Robert E. Sloat)
10. Rub Rail Loose (Irving Grunes)
11. Re: Rub Rail Coating? (Bruce Heyman)
12. Re: ST 4000 autohelm problem (Bruce Heyman)
13. Re: Rub Rail Loose (Bruce Heyman)
14. Re: Rub Rail Coating? (Joe Barrett)
15. Re: Rub Rail Loose (Pat Moriarty)
16. Re: whisker pole ring (Monte B.)
17. Genoa Mid Ship Track Cleat (Joe Abbagnaro)
18. Re: Genoa Mid Ship Track Cleat (Chris Burti)
19. Things that work: GFO Packing, Main Sail Reefing Blocks, Kiwi
Feathering Prop (Amirault Family - S&B)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 19:04:16 -0500
From: "Monte B." <mjbc60 at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] ST 4000 autohelm problem
To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Message-ID: <20080518235930.EF2A372658 at spunkymail-mx2.g.dreamhost.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Gene,
When you power up a 4000 AP it runs a self test that runs a software test
and commands a servo run that does whatever, I don't know. I would reboot
the control head and hook everything back up and see what happens. I have
not run into this one so good luck. BTW the clutch is not supposed to be
engaged.
Monte
Laima # 620
-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of
crashley at gte.net
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 8:28 AM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] ST 4000 autohelm problem
Gene,
When my ST4000 autopilot first powers up it attempts to rotate the wheel a
1/4 turn or so. I think this is some sort of self test or indication that
the unit is on. Could be related.
CRA
Rosebud #882
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene Musante" <gmusante at msn.com>
To: "Catalina, 320 intl" <c320-list at catalina320.org>
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 4:04 AM
Subject: [C320-list] ST 4000 autohelm problem
Hi,
I mounted up my boat's wheel for the season and connected the servo motor to
it's electrical connection on the pedistal. When I switched the power on,
my power kept switching off and on at about a 1 second frequency on the
autohelm display and my tri-data display. My GPS, which is connected to the
same power feed was having the same problem. I disconnected the servo motor
electrical connector, and the power came on and stayed on.
My hunch is that the servo motor may be defective, but it was working fine
in the fall before I dismounted the wheel, which I store inside the boat. I
am going to dismount the wheel and re-assemble the whole works to see if
this could have been caused by a mechanical problem. I forgot that the
wheel lock was on when I first switched on the power which may have caused
the problem initially.
Has anybody seen this problem on their boat?Gene Musante 617-755-0680
gmusante at msn.comAFFINITY Hull #68
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 00:26:49 +0000
From: bruceheyman at cox.net
Subject: Re: [C320-list] ST 4000 autohelm problem
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Message-ID:
<1736116629-1211156808-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-346530451- at b
xe110.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Content-Type: text/plain
When the unit powers up it rotates the belt so that it won't wear out the
same spot. Manual says that you should only have the Autopilot clutch
engaged when you have the unit driving the boat.
Bruce
Somerset 671 SoCal
Sent via BlackBerry by AT&T
-----Original Message-----
From: "Monte B." <mjbc60 at sbcglobal.net>
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 19:04:16
To:<C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] ST 4000 autohelm problem
Gene,
When you power up a 4000 AP it runs a self test that runs a software test
and commands a servo run that does whatever, I don't know. I would reboot
the control head and hook everything back up and see what happens. I have
not run into this one so good luck. BTW the clutch is not supposed to be
engaged.
Monte
Laima # 620
-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of
crashley at gte.net
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 8:28 AM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] ST 4000 autohelm problem
Gene,
When my ST4000 autopilot first powers up it attempts to rotate the wheel a
1/4 turn or so. I think this is some sort of self test or indication that
the unit is on. Could be related.
CRA
Rosebud #882
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gene Musante" <gmusante at msn.com>
To: "Catalina, 320 intl" <c320-list at catalina320.org>
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 4:04 AM
Subject: [C320-list] ST 4000 autohelm problem
Hi,
I mounted up my boat's wheel for the season and connected the servo motor to
it's electrical connection on the pedistal. When I switched the power on,
my power kept switching off and on at about a 1 second frequency on the
autohelm display and my tri-data display. My GPS, which is connected to the
same power feed was having the same problem. I disconnected the servo motor
electrical connector, and the power came on and stayed on.
My hunch is that the servo motor may be defective, but it was working fine
in the fall before I dismounted the wheel, which I store inside the boat. I
am going to dismount the wheel and re-assemble the whole works to see if
this could have been caused by a mechanical problem. I forgot that the
wheel lock was on when I first switched on the power which may have caused
the problem initially.
Has anybody seen this problem on their boat?Gene Musante 617-755-0680
gmusante at msn.comAFFINITY Hull #68
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 19:39:10 -0500
From: "Monte B." <mjbc60 at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Maximum Stop to Stop Wheel Turn Capability
To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Message-ID: <20080519003427.C779DC1AF at spunkymail-mx7.g.dreamhost.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Bill,
This is an old lever and fulcrum problem and the net, net is, as you have
already guessed, one size doesn't fit all. On the early boats the clamp
attached to the rudder post will have to be longer to slow the rod travel
and not exceed the sensor travel. On my boat, I mounted the rod to the
rudder bellcrank and had to mount it almost at the outer edge of the
bellcrank so the rudder stops were the limits as opposed to the sensor
which would break. My mount is on a .025 aluminum bracket that I fabricated
and has a small amount of give so that as things move there is some
tolerance to an imperfect bellcrank, sensor geometry. My boat is a 2 turn
lock to lock and I suspect if you used an old boat mount on a new boat all
you would lose is the last few degrees of travel indication which I suspect
few would miss. If it works on the old boats it should work on the new ones
with no loss of performance in it's true function.
Monte
Laima #620
-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Bill MacRae
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 8:59 AM
To: c320-list at catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Maximum Stop to Stop Wheel Turn Capability
This is an excellent and timely subject especially for those involved in the
rudder sensor project. Jeff is correct; I was getting dimensions for the
brackets and realized that my rudder swings about 180 degrees. This is
probably why the rudder sensor is only good for 120 degrees included. The
swing will have to be reduced or the connecting rod will bend around the
rudder post and cause other possible damages.
There are some variables that need to be addressed to ensure that the
brackets fit all of the boats. I will be emailing some pictures and
questions to those that have expressed interest in the kits and brackets.
If there is anyone else that hasn't contacted me who is interested, please
write and I will include you in the emails.
Bill
531> From: jjemail at comcast.net> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com> Date: Sat, 17
May 2008 10:32:25 -0500> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Maximum Stop to Stop Wheel
Turn Capability> > Chris,> > You might be correct, but this much I know. On
older boats the rudder could swing much more than 60 degrees in either
direction. When I installed the sensor on my 1998 I had to add material to
the stop because the sensor's swing is physically limited to 60 degrees.
Turn it farther than that and parts have to bend or break.> > My guess was
that CY changed to a tether to keep the sensor from being damaged. Maybe
they did it because the rudder post might be damaged or stall at anything
approaching 60 degrees at speed. On my 387 the rudder is limited to much
less than 60 degrees and that is very difficult to get used to after owning
the 320. Unfortunately, the autohelm drive unit doesn't allow more movement
than that. > > There are lots of thing about the 320 that I'm going to miss.
It's a great boat.> > Jeff > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From:
crashley at gte.net > To: C320-List at Catalina320.com > Sent: Saturday, May 17,
2008 12:53 AM> Subject: [C320-list] Maximum Stop to Stop Wheel Turn
Capability> > > Jeff,> > I don't think I agree. I have an ST4000 with a
rudder sensor and it does not > restrict the range in any way.> > CRA>
Rosebud #882> > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jeff Church"
<jjemail at comcast.net>> To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>> Sent: Friday, May
16, 2008 8:34 PM> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Anyone interested in Rudder
ReferenceSensor> > > Maybe because the autopilot kits now include a rudder
reference transducer > and it has a max swing of 60 degrees in either
direction.> > JeffC> ----- Original Message ----- > From: crashley at gte.net>
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com> Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 8:37 AM> Subject:
Re: [C320-list] Anyone interested in Rudder ReferenceSensor > andbrackets?>
> > Pat and Jeff,> > It sounds like that rudder stop was a bit too tight. I
have a 2002 C320 > and> the wheels goes about +/- 3/4 turn lock to lock (1.5
turns overall). I can> turn on a dime. Has it been reduced further? Why?> >
CRA> Rosebud #882> > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Jeff Church"
<jjemail at comcast.net>> To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>> Sent: Wednesday, May
14, 2008 10:15 PM> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Anyone interested in Rudder
Reference Sensor> andbrackets?> > > Pat,> > CY changed the rudder stops
sometime after 1998. Yours had some stops> attached to the quadrant that
contacted fiberglass blocks that were molded> into the liner. Newer boats
have a wire tether attached to the quadrant > and> bolted to the liner.> >
JeffC> ----- Original Message ----- > From: Pat Moriarty> To:
C320-List at Catalina320.com> Sent: Wednesday, May 14, 2008 9:34 AM> Subject:
Re: [C320-list] Anyone interested in Rudder Reference Sensor > and>
brackets?> > > Well it gives you an instant location of the> rudder which if
you are backing out of your slip> in a big cross wind is real handy. OK I
have a> question. I have #130 1994 and it is 2 turns lock> to lock but I
drove a 2005 C320 and it only had> one turn lock to lock, is the rudder much
smaller> on the new boats, or what gives? I know that it> did not turn as
fast as mine into the slip ok> dock because I missed the slip completely as
I expected it to turn.> > Pat #130> > > At 09:15 AM 5/14/2008, you wrote:>
>This may sound stupid, but that has never stopped me before..> >> >I've
seen a number of references to the rudder sensor solving 'the> >problem'
over the last couple years, but have missed just what the> >problem solved
is. I'm guessing it may be installation-specific.> >> >In my case, I've been
pleased with the ST4000 w/o the sensor. Under> >power it tracks right on
course w/o hunting. It does a fairly decent> >job under sail (though I
rarely use it then). Now the one place it> >falls down is trying the
'auto-tack' under sail, but that isn't a big> >deal for me.> >> >Would I see
any benefit from a rudder sensor?> >> >> >On May 14, 2008, at 8:39 AM, Bill
MacRae wrote:> >> >>> >>Stan, you're on the list.> >>> >>As of now there are
a 3 additional sensors available at a nice> >>discount. This is the list so
far, please let me know if I'm> >>missing anyone.> >>> >>1) Bill M> >>2) Ken
D> >>3) Ralph W> >>4) Charles A (brackets only)> >>5) Stan> >>> >>I'll be
placing the order for the material on Monday.> >>> >>Thanks,> >>Bill> >>>
>>> >>> >>> >>>Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 17:21:18 -0700> From:
ola7442000 at gmail.com>> >>>To: C320-List at catalina320.com> Subject: Re:
[C320-list] Anyone> >>>interested in Rudder Reference Sensor and brackets?>
> Hi Bill,> >> >>>I checked the new X10 autopilot price. $3000.00!!!!!!!!.
Put me on> >>>the> list for your rudder sensor kit.> > Stan> "Our Little>
>>>Amusement" #744> > On Sun, May 11, 2008 at> >>>4:23 PM, Bill MacRae
<seacalling at msn.com >> >>>wrote:> > >> > I was thinking about making a
bracket similar to> >>>Stephen Cox's design.> > Shown on this> >>>link:> >
http://tinyurl.com/6jxwjs > >> > As> >>>things turned out, I happened to
find someone that bought> >>>out a marine> > store who has at least 7
sensors that he would be> >>>happy to sell at a> > significant discount.
Since I have a machine> >>>shop, I could run off 7> > brackets and offer a
complete kit that> >>>includes sensor, brackets, and> > hardware for around
$300 to $325> >>>providing there are takers for all 7 kits.> > All you would
have to> >>>do is clamp the brackets on and connect 4 wires. I> > will find
out> >>>on Monday if he has more than 7 sensors. The first 7 people> > that>
>>>signs up gets them.> >> > 1) Me> > 2)> > 3)> > 4)> > 5)> > 6)> >> >>>7)>
>> >>>_________________________________________________________________>>
>>> > Stay in touch when you're away with Windows> >>> Live Messenger.> >>
>> >>>>
http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh
_messenger_052008> >>> > > > > > -- > Stan> "Our Little Amusement"> C320
#744> N 36 03'> >>>15"> W 114 48' 16"> __/)__/)__/)__/)__>
>>_________________________________________________________________> >>Get
Free (PRODUCT) REDT Emoticons, Winks and Display Pics.>
>>http://joinred.spaces.live.com?ocid=TXT_HMTG_prodredemoticons_052008> >> >
Pat Moriarty> PSI Urethanes Inc> PH: 800-888-5156 Fax: 512-837-8733> Please
visit our web site at> www.psiurethanes.com> > >
_________________________________________________________________
E-mail for the greater good. Join the i'm Initiative from Microsoft.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_
GreaterGood=
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 21:08:00 -0400
From: Robert Seastream <robert.seastream at comcast.net>
Subject: [C320-list] Coolant leak
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Message-ID: <5115EB64-1A0F-41B2-95A0-F36A824E03FC at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; Format="flowed";
DelSp="yes"
All:
Please see attached pix. I had to rotate the brass T fitting (below
my thumb in pix) and associated pipe at its' left so that the sensor
on the T would clear the (upgraded) alternator casing below it. I
rotated it about an eighth turn; the pipe turned also. This fitting
is connected to hoses that seem to feed the loop in the hot water
heater, given the path they take behind the refrigerator. Now I have
a slight coolant leak at the end threaded into the engine. Since I
rotated the fitting towards the bow, that means I unthreaded the end
entering the engine by that eighth turn. Both ends of the fitting
seem to have been coated with something. Should I merely try rotating
the fitting back to its' starting position (if possible-might not
clear alternator), or need I now remove the fitting and recoat the
threads? I don't know what was used.
Bob
-------------- next part --------------
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 21:20:25 -0400
From: "Allan S. Field" <allan.field at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Coolant leak
To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Message-ID: <002601c8b94e$84fb52b0$8ef1f810$@field at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Bob - Pictures get stripped out of our e-mails. - Allan
-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Seastream
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 9:08 PM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: [C320-list] Coolant leak
All:
Please see attached pix. I had to rotate the brass T fitting (below my
thumb in pix) and associated pipe at its' left so that the sensor on the T
would clear the (upgraded) alternator casing below it. I rotated it about
an eighth turn; the pipe turned also. This fitting is connected to hoses
that seem to feed the loop in the hot water heater, given the path they take
behind the refrigerator. Now I have a slight coolant leak at the end
threaded into the engine. Since I rotated the fitting towards the bow, that
means I unthreaded the end entering the engine by that eighth turn. Both
ends of the fitting seem to have been coated with something. Should I
merely try rotating the fitting back to its' starting position (if
possible-might not clear alternator), or need I now remove the fitting and
recoat the threads? I don't know what was used.
Bob
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 22:00:06 -0400
From: Robert Seastream <robert.seastream at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Coolant leak
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Message-ID: <39E85D23-9869-47B0-B923-1A38D716B3FD at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=US-ASCII; format=flowed; delsp=yes
OK, thanks. Figures. Anyhow, I've got a 2002 320 with the Yanmar
3GM30F engine. I suspect I'll have to unthread the pipe from the
engine and recoat the threads with either teflon tape or whatever
sealant was used. It's a tossup as to whether I need contact Catalina
or Yanmar regarding sealant used.
Bob
On May 18, 2008, at 9:20 PM, Allan S. Field wrote:
> Bob - Pictures get stripped out of our e-mails. - Allan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Robert
> Seastream
> Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 9:08 PM
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Subject: [C320-list] Coolant leak
>
> All:
>
> Please see attached pix. I had to rotate the brass T fitting (below
> my
> thumb in pix) and associated pipe at its' left so that the sensor on
> the T
> would clear the (upgraded) alternator casing below it. I rotated it
> about
> an eighth turn; the pipe turned also. This fitting is connected to
> hoses
> that seem to feed the loop in the hot water heater, given the path
> they take
> behind the refrigerator. Now I have a slight coolant leak at the end
> threaded into the engine. Since I rotated the fitting towards the
> bow, that
> means I unthreaded the end entering the engine by that eighth turn.
> Both
> ends of the fitting seem to have been coated with something. Should I
> merely try rotating the fitting back to its' starting position (if
> possible-might not clear alternator), or need I now remove the
> fitting and
> recoat the threads? I don't know what was used.
>
> Bob
>
>
------------------------------
Message: 7
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 21:24:59 -0500
From: "Monte B." <mjbc60 at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Coolant leak
To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Message-ID: <20080519021941.247ADFA12E at spunkymail-mx1.g.dreamhost.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
Bob,
I suspect Teflon tape will solve your leak much quicker than the phone
calls.
Monte
Laima #620
-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Robert
Seastream
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 9:00 PM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Coolant leak
OK, thanks. Figures. Anyhow, I've got a 2002 320 with the Yanmar
3GM30F engine. I suspect I'll have to unthread the pipe from the
engine and recoat the threads with either teflon tape or whatever
sealant was used. It's a tossup as to whether I need contact Catalina
or Yanmar regarding sealant used.
Bob
On May 18, 2008, at 9:20 PM, Allan S. Field wrote:
> Bob - Pictures get stripped out of our e-mails. - Allan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Robert
> Seastream
> Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 9:08 PM
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Subject: [C320-list] Coolant leak
>
> All:
>
> Please see attached pix. I had to rotate the brass T fitting (below
> my
> thumb in pix) and associated pipe at its' left so that the sensor on
> the T
> would clear the (upgraded) alternator casing below it. I rotated it
> about
> an eighth turn; the pipe turned also. This fitting is connected to
> hoses
> that seem to feed the loop in the hot water heater, given the path
> they take
> behind the refrigerator. Now I have a slight coolant leak at the end
> threaded into the engine. Since I rotated the fitting towards the
> bow, that
> means I unthreaded the end entering the engine by that eighth turn.
> Both
> ends of the fitting seem to have been coated with something. Should I
> merely try rotating the fitting back to its' starting position (if
> possible-might not clear alternator), or need I now remove the
> fitting and
> recoat the threads? I don't know what was used.
>
> Bob
>
>
------------------------------
Message: 8
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 09:00:12 -0400
From: "Gates" <argates2nd at comcast.net>
Subject: [C320-list] Rub Rail Coating?
To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Message-ID: <006401c8b9b0$46a5e900$135c434b at edgar>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="Windows-1252";
reply-type=original
I finally got my rub rail clean by using fine grit wet sandpaper. Is there
a coating that will keep it fresh? Rollie #182
------------------------------
Message: 9
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 08:01:48 -0500
From: "Robert E. Sloat" <resloat at comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Coolant leak
To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Message-ID: <003601c8b9b0$8021a390$6701a8c0 at bp1.ad.bp.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original
Bob-I have a 2002 C320 and a very slight leak developed a few years ago at
the same fitting. I just removed the fitting and wrapped the threads with
teflon tape and put it back on and the leak stopped. Do this when the
engine is cold, remove the radiator cap to eliminate any pressure in the
system, have someone put their finger over the hole on the engine block and
raise the hose to the hot water heater after you remove the fitting. This
will almost eliminate any coolant leakage during the repair. I did this and
it was a 5 minute job with about a tablespoon of coolant deposited on the
paper towels place below the fitting.
Bob Sloat
Savannah Hull 894
----- Original Message -----
From: "Monte B." <mjbc60 at sbcglobal.net>
To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 9:24 PM
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Coolant leak
> Bob,
>
> I suspect Teflon tape will solve your leak much quicker than the phone
> calls.
>
> Monte
> Laima #620
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Robert
> Seastream
> Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 9:00 PM
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Coolant leak
>
> OK, thanks. Figures. Anyhow, I've got a 2002 320 with the Yanmar
> 3GM30F engine. I suspect I'll have to unthread the pipe from the
> engine and recoat the threads with either teflon tape or whatever
> sealant was used. It's a tossup as to whether I need contact Catalina
> or Yanmar regarding sealant used.
>
> Bob
>
> On May 18, 2008, at 9:20 PM, Allan S. Field wrote:
>
>> Bob - Pictures get stripped out of our e-mails. - Allan
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
>> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Robert
>> Seastream
>> Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 9:08 PM
>> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
>> Subject: [C320-list] Coolant leak
>>
>> All:
>>
>> Please see attached pix. I had to rotate the brass T fitting (below
>> my
>> thumb in pix) and associated pipe at its' left so that the sensor on
>> the T
>> would clear the (upgraded) alternator casing below it. I rotated it
>> about
>> an eighth turn; the pipe turned also. This fitting is connected to
>> hoses
>> that seem to feed the loop in the hot water heater, given the path
>> they take
>> behind the refrigerator. Now I have a slight coolant leak at the end
>> threaded into the engine. Since I rotated the fitting towards the
>> bow, that
>> means I unthreaded the end entering the engine by that eighth turn.
>> Both
>> ends of the fitting seem to have been coated with something. Should I
>> merely try rotating the fitting back to its' starting position (if
>> possible-might not clear alternator), or need I now remove the
>> fitting and
>> recoat the threads? I don't know what was used.
>>
>> Bob
>>
>>
>
------------------------------
Message: 10
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 09:42:02 -0400
From: "Irving Grunes" <igrunes at gmail.com>
Subject: [C320-list] Rub Rail Loose
To: C320-List at catalina320.com
Message-ID:
<36c4ce4c0805190642g7c8549c5w41507838243e4159 at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
Hi,
We had a four foot section of rub rail material pop out of the metal holder.
What systems have been used in the past to get the the "rubber" part of the
rail back into it's metal groove?
Irv Grunes
2oo1 #851
------------------------------
Message: 11
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 06:49:48 -0700
From: "Bruce Heyman" <bruceheyman at cox.net>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Rub Rail Coating?
To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Message-ID: <00ed01c8b9b7$34374410$6501a8c0 at brucelaptop>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I've been using Armoral(SP?).
Bruce
Somerset #671 SoCal
-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Gates
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 6:00 AM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: [C320-list] Rub Rail Coating?
I finally got my rub rail clean by using fine grit wet sandpaper. Is there
a coating that will keep it fresh? Rollie #182
------------------------------
Message: 12
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 06:51:34 -0700
From: "Bruce Heyman" <bruceheyman at cox.net>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] ST 4000 autohelm problem
To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Message-ID: <00f401c8b9b7$7373c5e0$6501a8c0 at brucelaptop>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
The stepper motor that they use for the Auto helm draws a lot of current.
Depending on the quality of your connections and the dimension of your wires
this will cause a voltage drop. Once you get down to about 10 volts most
GPS I've seen will reset. Same with the instruments. I'm pretty sure that
the manual recommends an isolated 12v feed for the motor.
Put a DVM on the 12v feeding the GPS and watch what happens when you switch
on the auto helm and the stepper motor turns on.
Bruce
Somerset #671 SoCal
-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Gene Musante
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 4:05 AM
To: Catalina, 320 intl
Subject: [C320-list] ST 4000 autohelm problem
Hi,
I mounted up my boat's wheel for the season and connected the servo motor to
it's electrical connection on the pedistal. When I switched the power on,
my power kept switching off and on at about a 1 second frequency on the
autohelm display and my tri-data display. My GPS, which is connected to the
same power feed was having the same problem. I disconnected the servo motor
electrical connector, and the power came on and stayed on.
My hunch is that the servo motor may be defective, but it was working fine
in the fall before I dismounted the wheel, which I store inside the boat. I
am going to dismount the wheel and re-assemble the whole works to see if
this could have been caused by a mechanical problem. I forgot that the
wheel lock was on when I first switched on the power which may have caused
the problem initially.
Has anybody seen this problem on their boat?Gene Musante 617-755-0680
gmusante at msn.comAFFINITY Hull #68
------------------------------
Message: 13
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 07:20:57 -0700
From: "Bruce Heyman" <bruceheyman at cox.net>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Rub Rail Loose
To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Message-ID: <013a01c8b9bb$8e51d650$6501a8c0 at brucelaptop>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Irv,
I had that problem and was able to get it back in by the judicious of a
plastic 1" paint scraper and a rubber mallet.
Bruce
Somerset #671 SoCal
-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Irving Grunes
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 6:42 AM
To: C320-List at catalina320.com
Subject: [C320-list] Rub Rail Loose
Hi,
We had a four foot section of rub rail material pop out of the metal holder.
What systems have been used in the past to get the the "rubber" part of the
rail back into it's metal groove?
Irv Grunes
2oo1 #851
------------------------------
Message: 14
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 10:34:36 -0400
From: "Joe Barrett" <joe at dolphinmortgage.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Rub Rail Coating?
To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Message-ID: <012401c8b9bd$76d66a20$8901a8c0 at Joe>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"
HI Rollie, a good coat of 3M Rubbing Compound/ Wax Combo should make a nice
seal for it.
Joe
------------------------------------
Worldbanc Financial Group of Naples
Joseph T. Barrett jr.
Branch President
joe at dolphincommercialcapital.com
9010 Strada Stell Court
Suite 209
Naples, Florida 34109
In The Vanderbilt Galleria
tel: 239-597-2266
tel2:877-437-2262
fax: 239-597-7276
mobile: 239-777-1880
www.worldbancfinance.com
------------------------------------
-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Gates
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 9:00 AM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: [C320-list] Rub Rail Coating?
I finally got my rub rail clean by using fine grit wet sandpaper. Is there
a coating that will keep it fresh? Rollie #182
------------------------------
Message: 15
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 09:44:58 -0500
From: Pat Moriarty <patm at psiurethanes.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Rub Rail Loose
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Message-ID: <20080519145011.89CB0200047B at proxy0.logixcom.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"; format=flowed
I have had it come out and replaced it with lots of labor, but I also
replace the complete thing and that is a real job. Plastic will
shrink with age and the softer ones tend to harden with age, so if
your is loose it is easy to put back in with lots of hand labor and
maybe a mallet but don't use tools or you will scratch the anodized
aluminum strip. Once it gets too old and has shrunk you will find
that you have to put it back in more often and that is why I replaced
mine. Got into a big argument with Catalina about the stuff they sent
me and proved myself correct so Jerry sent me a letter of apology and
thanks for straighting out the parts supplier. How do you sand it
without damage to the aluminum????
Pat #130
At 09:20 AM 5/19/2008, you wrote:
>Irv,
>I had that problem and was able to get it back in by the judicious of a
>plastic 1" paint scraper and a rubber mallet.
>Bruce
>Somerset #671 SoCal
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
>[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Irving Grunes
>Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 6:42 AM
>To: C320-List at catalina320.com
>Subject: [C320-list] Rub Rail Loose
>
>Hi,
>
>We had a four foot section of rub rail material pop out of the metal
holder.
>
>What systems have been used in the past to get the the "rubber" part of the
>rail back into it's metal groove?
>
>Irv Grunes
>2oo1 #851
Pat Moriarty
PSI Urethanes Inc
PH: 800-888-5156 Fax: 512-837-8733
Please visit our web site at
www.psiurethanes.com
------------------------------
Message: 16
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 10:51:29 -0500
From: "Monte B." <mjbc60 at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] whisker pole ring
To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Message-ID: <20080519154613.849DAFA132 at spunkymail-mx1.g.dreamhost.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Timothy, The whisker pole ring I mounted on Laima is a Forespar product but
didn't keep the part number.
Monte
Laima #620
-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Timothy
Grennan
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 6:58 PM
To: c320-list at lists.catalina320.com
Subject: [C320-list] whisker pole ring
Has anyone mounted a whisker pole ring on the mast, and if so, what make and
model?
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it
now.
------------------------------
Message: 17
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 12:15:51 -0400
From: "Joe Abbagnaro" <jabbagna at gmail.com>
Subject: [C320-list] Genoa Mid Ship Track Cleat
To: C320-List at catalina320.com
Message-ID:
<b28ed6810805190915ucea46f6ub64ba6f5a447b48c at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
I want to add a midship cleat to the Genoa track.
Anyone know the size of the track, and a good place to pickup one
of these cleats. I found one made by schafer but not sure of the
track size.
Joe
------------------------------
Message: 18
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 12:18:57 -0400
From: "Chris Burti" <clburti at gmail.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Genoa Mid Ship Track Cleat
To: C320-List at catalina320.com
Message-ID:
<79721a9c0805190918k6f7a1301qe0b21de691225c18 at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1
1-1/4" Shaefer will fit, I got mine on eBay. Garhaue ralso has an excellent
one at a lower price if you can't wait.
On Mon, May 19, 2008 at 12:15 PM, Joe Abbagnaro <jabbagna at gmail.com> wrote:
> I want to add a midship cleat to the Genoa track.
> Anyone know the size of the track, and a good place to pickup one
> of these cleats. I found one made by schafer but not sure of the
> track size.
>
> Joe
>
--
Chris Burti
Farmville, NC
------------------------------
Message: 19
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 12:30:45 -0400
From: "Amirault Family - S&B" <amiraults at sympatico.ca>
Subject: [C320-list] Things that work: GFO Packing, Main Sail Reefing
Blocks, Kiwi Feathering Prop
To: <c320-list at lists.catalina320.com>
Message-ID: <BAYC1-PASMTP1059972DC7FEB54BDCC88CD9C50 at CEZ.ICE>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Bear was launched without incident on May 10th, mast prepped on the 12th,
raised on the 13th , mast tuned and boat rigged on the 14th and the first
race was the 15th. The race did not count for the spring series due to high
water levels; over a third of the boats were not available as they remain
behind a closed flood gate at a sister club. Difficult as it is to credit,
there was too much water to sail in.
The GFO is alleged to be dripless and I can attest to this. Like all else
on a C320, working on the stuffing box is far easier than any aft-of-engine
maintenance on the previous Tanzer 8.5. The difficult part of the exercise
was the removal of two layers of the previous packing which apparently was a
cloth material containing a waxy substance. Once the cup of the fitting was
cleaned and a determination made that there was no scoring of the shaft I
was able to fit three layers of GFO in place. The fitting was then firmly
hand tightened-down and left. Now having been used at 2400 rpm I can confirm
no drips.
The only nagging doubt is that the fitting becomes quite warm; making me
wonder if I have left the fitting too tight. It is not uncomfortably hot but
it still causes second guessing. I would appreciate comments.
The reefing blocks proved an inexpensive, easily installed addition which
seems to eliminate the reef lines fouling each other as they are now on
opposite sides of the boom. Installation would have been easier in no wind.
The only delay was with the cringle for the forward lower block. This
cringle proved smaller than the other three, and the block shackle would not
fit through it, causing a successful hunt in the parts box for a substitute.
The operation is very smooth.
The prop swap went off with little difficulty. The removal of the original
fixed three blade was without incident using a 50 year old prop puller
supplied by another sailor and which is still owned by his father; the son
is retired and the father frail and no longer with a boat of his own. The
install was not difficult based on the supplied directions. The retaining
nut, which screws on to the shaft through the propeller boss did not look as
though it was a far into the boss as described. This necessitated an e-mail
to the west coast vendor who suggested either that the shaft was too long or
that I had the key jammed too far to the stern in the keyway and that it was
the incorrect position of the key that was blocking the correct seating of
the nut. Pulling the new prop proved more difficult as the shape of the prop
hub did not allow all three of the arms of the puller to engage the back of
the prop. Additional hands and adult language were required to perform the
removal. The problem was a poorly positioned key. Repositioned, all ended
well.
I have become a booster of feathering props in general but not the Kiwi in
particular; but only as it is my first non-fixed prop and there may be
better brands. The in-harbour characteristics are superior. I was surprised
(positively) to be able to reverse from my slip immediately and directly to
the rear without noticeable prop-walk.
With the stern moving in reverse turning to port, and approaching the stern
of the boat docked across the fairway I was ambushed (and I trust that
sounds as negative and helpless as it felt) on placing the transmission in
forward and expecting to immediately throttle away to actually continue
slowing in reverse and getting distressingly near that other hull before the
boat corrected itself. From reverse it appears that there is a brief lag
where the blades feather before repositioning themselves and biting into
forward. This is not a criticism but merely an observation on a performance
characteristic which differs from the fixed three blade before it. Now I
know, and I will plan accordingly.
Under engine the drive train seems smoother than in the pre-Kiwi age. Bear
will operate at 6.6 knots at 2600 rpm. There is no low rev lugging of the
engine and the prop seems adequately sized for the engine/transmission
combination. From speed Bear can be brought to a crash near-halt in a couple
of boat lengths. It was a near-halt as when going from full forward to full
reverse in a hurry there was noticeable prop-walk to port as the boat
approached 0 knots. I cannot say that this is different from the original
prop as I had not tried this before.
Coming off the engine the first note is that there appears to be less wake
and certainly the shaft no longer turns with the transmission in neutral.
With the wind 12 to 18 knots I have no comment on light air performance. I
can state that coming out of a tack we accelerate back to speed much faster
than before. Additionally, I do not know how to credit the fact, but we are
pointing higher based both on instruments and the observation of some other
boats in our race fleet. The difference is in the 5 degree range. Although
not my imagination, I do not know how to credit this to the prop other than
to say that all else was equal as the new head sail has yet to arrive and we
are continuing to use the original 150%.
Generally I am impressed with the new prop. I have every expectation that
the light air performance will be a credit to the prop and to Bear. If the
Kiwi proves mechanically reliable then I have acquired a relatively
inexpensive (at 1300$ Canadian delivered) winner.
And the race? Only the uninitiated will be surprised that a feathering prop
has no tangible impact in overcoming a start where you boat crosses the line
lonely and last and at the hopeless end. We actually caught up to
competition - those boats that like us tend to finish in the middle third of
the fleet. The boats which through some apparent collusion always agree in
advance in which 1-2-3 order they will finish well ahead of the rest of us,
are still refusing to compete and continue to get far ahead of me early; and
then stay there. I have much to get right with my new 159 PHRF (down for
171 with the old prop) but then that's the fun, i'nit.
Brian Amirault
797 Waltzing Bear, too
End of C320-list Digest, Vol 99, Issue 1
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