[C320-list] water heater by-pass

Wed Oct 29 16:01:55 PDT 2008

Don't know how much earlier Catalina made the change but my 2004 320  #983 is 
plumbed with a "Whale" system. This consist of 15mm Blue (cold) and Red  
(Hot) Semi-flexible hoses. When I winterize my water system at the end of the  
season to remove the Hot Water Heater I remove the wooden facing and draw system  
under the sink. Then I disconnect the cold water supple to the Hot Water 
Heater  at the T-Fitting where the supply branches to feed the Hot Water Heater. 
Next I  disconnect the Output side of the Hot Water Heater and using Whale 
Fittings  connect a 15mm Jumper hose between the T-fitting where I disconnected 
the supply  and the Hot Water Output hose. With this done I can not pump the 
"pink" stuff  through the water system without affecting the Hot Water Heater.

To empty the Hot Water Heater, as much as possible, I connect an Air Pump  to 
the Cold Water Supply input to the Hot Water Heater and open the drain (looks 
 like a normal hose bib) and pump air through the Hot Water Heater until no 
more  water drains out.

In the spring remember to flush the Water System with fresh water to purge  
the "pink" stuff before reconnecting the Hot Water Heater to the system.

Dave Marchant
Illumination #983
Solomons, MD

In a message dated 10/29/2008 5:28:31 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
wupdike at hotmail.com writes:

I don't  know where Catalina switched from clear plastic hose to the PVC;
but,  perhaps it makes a difference when installing a bypass. On Warr De  Mar,
#62, I think I counted 17 hose clamps in the hoses under the galley  sink. My
original intention was to install two manifolds in an effort to  organize
this mess and minimize the number of connections. That's how I got  an
education on PVC pipe and connectors. The manifold was expensive not  even
considering the cost of the various connectors, there was no viable  retail
outlet, and the mfgr. wouldn't sell directly to me. I ended up  just
installing a by-pass on the water heater.

The by-pass is a $24  kit containing two valves and a bypass hose. The valves
are well made of  bronze (I think.)  Space is so cramped under the galley, if
I had to  do it over again, I would consider pulling the heater first. The
valves  replaced two plastic elbows that screw into the heater. The hose  that
needed to be run over the top of the heater from one valve to the  other was
not long enough. The threads on the plastic elbows were worn and  probably
leaked. Plastic hose barbs screwed into the valves provided for  hose
connection. There was not 1/8" to spare. Much attention was given to  not
encroaching on the space for the drawer cabinet. 

The bypass,  some new hose, and new clamps were enough to eliminate the
leaks, and make  winterizing the heater much easier. I do have to pull the
cabinet to get at  the valves. Small price for easing the job. 

Warren & Pattie  Updike
Catalina 320, #62, "Warr De Mar"
Middle River, Chesapeake  Bay

-----Original Message-----
From: Paul Rickman  [mailto:ilove2sail at verizon.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 2:13  PM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] water heater  by-pass

Mine has four screws. Remove the drawers, remove the screws,  lift the unit
out and you have access to
everything under the sink,  takes maybe three minutes.

I made my own bypass with hose and  connectors. I don't know what size. But
it was easy and may have
cost me  three dollars. But I have to remove it when I have finished, then
put it  back the way it was.

Paul
Affinity, 657

-----  Original Message ----
From: "BAdams3491 at aol.com"  <BAdams3491 at aol.com>
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Sent:  Wednesday, October 29, 2008 2:00:20 PM
Subject: Re: [C320-list] water  heater by-pass

I am in the process of making a hot water bypass.   I don't think the  WM 
version will work because our boats have 15mm  lines and fittings on most  
commercial bypasses have female type  ends, which will not mate to the 15mm 
fittings.  
My plan is  to make my own bypass using 1/2" pvc and fittings (T  fittings
and  
shut offs), sealing the bond between the 1/2" pvc and the 15mm  lines  with
3M 
4200.  You can get 15mm fittings from WM, page 523, but  they  are 
ridiculously expensive.

Yes the drawer unit must be  removed...it's easy only six or eight  screws.

Bert
At  Ease
#442

In a message dated 10/29/2008 11:15:39 A.M. Central  Daylight Time,  
uhlman at sbcglobal.net writes:

We are  at  that point and wondering what to do next.

I see that West Marine  has  a by-pass kit for $30.  The limited description 
says that  once you  install it, you can simply turn it on and off in future  
years - no need to  remove.
I've heard a number of people say they  bought the kit and did not  know what

to do with  it.

Questions

Have you installed  the kit  successfully?
If so, did you have to take the drawer frame out to   install it?  (seems
like 
the only way)
Has it worked well  for  you?
If not, other solutions?

We were standing on our  heads  last Sunday trying to see the outlets of the 
water heater and  the lines  running from them - Bob looking through from the

galley  side and me from the  seacock door.  We had removed the drawers and  
passed the digital camera  back and forth to get better angles to see  what
was 
there.

Also,  has anyone seen the movie Morning  Light?  If so, what did you think
of 
it?  We are not a  coastal city so may not get it.  Bob is in LA this  week 
and  might get the chance to see it there.

Thanks again for  your  help.

Barb & Bob   Uhlman
"Whisper"

**************Plan your next getaway with AOL  Travel.  Check out Today's Hot

5 Travel Deals!  
(http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001)

**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1211625659x1200715650/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=82&bcd=emailf
ooter)