[C320-list] Thanks and Electrical Help Needed

[Welch, Myron D]

Thanks, Rollie, Irv and Jeff.  I think I have the problem solved.  I found considerable corrosion on the spade for the white wire with a red tracer attached to the solodoid.  Cleaned it off and while I was there, I used a mirror to locate the positive battery cable, so I removed and cleaned it all.  Works like a charm and I learned a lot.  Thanks again.

Myron Welch
Wind Instrument #238
Iowa City, Iowa
________________________________________
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com [c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of catalina at thehares.com [catalina at thehares.com]
Sent: Tuesday, June 23, 2009 7:49 PM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Thanks and Electrical Help Needed

Hi Myron,

   The usual suspects are usually Battery cables, Batteries, 1-2-both
switch, Starter.

* The charger would tend to provide a bit of extra DC voltage and an extra
10-15 amps that could be making the difference.

* The batteries are probably not the problem if they're new.

* The 1-2-both switches are fairly notorious for getting arching damage
over time, which creates resistance so if that hasn't been replaced, you
could test the switch by moving one of the battery cables from the A or B
terminals to the Common and bypassing the switch and see if that makes an
immediate difference.  If it does, replace the switch.

* Since "wiggling" the cables seemed to work at some point, I would dig a
little deeper there as well.  The cables have shrinkwrap tubing over the
connector area.  It's possible that there's corrosion under the heat shrink
tubing.  Cut that away and inspect the wire as it enters the battery cable
lug.  Be sure to check both the Positive and Negative cables, since any of
these could be the problem.

* As hard as it is to reach, I'd make an effort to remove/clean and
reattach the Positive and Negative cables going to the starter/engine
block.  (Disconnect the Positive wire at the Battery First!!)

* Also, if motoring didn't seem to charge the batteries well, the
alternator may have a damaged diode or two in the regulator and not
providing much of a charge (if any).  The Link2000 should show a minimum of
13.8 volts when the shore power charger is off and the engine is running.
Double check with a volt meter at the battery terminal nuts themselves to
verify that this voltage is reaching the battery terminals.

* Finally, the starter motor could be going/shorting and may be too weak to
turn the engine without full voltage.

I know on our boat that Catalina didn't use pre-tinned battery lugs, but
rather bare copper and heat-shrinked tubing over them.  They'll corrode
inside over time.  I replaced one of them with a tinned lug a few years
ago.

Finally, it would be good to rule out a current drain that is drawing down
the batteries without your knowledge.??

-Jeff Hare
#809



On Tue, 23 Jun 2009 16:37:38 -0500, "Welch, Myron D"
<myron-welch at uiowa.edu>
wrote:
> ________________________________________
> I have #238 with the Perkins engine, which I purchased new in 1995.  When
I
> launched earlier this month in northern Lake Michigan, I found the
dreaded
> muffler leak.  Fortunately, I had several issues of the Mainsheet with me
> that I had not read.  One had Karl's article on removing and replacing
the
> muffler.  As with most things on this list, it was most helpful.  Thanks
> Karl, et.al.  My boat hauler's glass man did an excellent job of
repairing
> the muffler.
>
> About 3 years ago I had a problem starting my trusty Perkins.  I would
warm
> the glow plugs and it would beep as usual, then nothing happened when I
> pushed the starter button.  I eventually got it to start by turning off
the
> refer and putting the selector switch on both, but not every time.  I
> checked the button and it was making contact.  I bought a new switch, but
> before I put it in, someone suggested polishing all connections real
well,
> especially the grounds.  I did that and it worked, so I did not replace
the
> switch.
>
> The first 3 times I sarted the engine this year it was fine.  Then last
> Tuesday I had the same problem.  I plugged the shore power back on, ran
the
> charger and it started.  I then motorsailed for 5 hours to my next
> destination and left the charger off after I got in my slip.  The
batteries
> did not hold their charge well (I have a Link 2000) and since they were 7
> years old, I just figured new batteries were needed.  I installed new
> batteries on Thursday and still had the same problem.  I again had to use
> the shorepower and charger to get it started.  When I got back to my
slip,
> it would not start.  I pulled off the negative battery ground on the
> engine, cleaned, tightened, yanked both positive and negative cables, ( I
> could not reach the positive terminal on the started) and it worked like
> new.  The next three starts the following days were fine.
>
> This morning I had the same problem -- no contact.  I wiggled the battery
> cables again but it did no good.  Plugged the charger back in and it
> eventually started.
>
> Suggestions?  Should I change the switch?  Could it be the starter?  How
do
> you get a wrench on the positive terminal of the starter?
>
> Thanks for your help.
>
> Myron Welch
> Wind Instrument #238
> Iowa City, Iowa