[C320-list] Stanchion replacement

[Wash, Steve]

It looks to be about 20-30 degrees.  You can still walk past it, but it
will certainly scrape you up when you go forward to get to the anchor
locker.

It looks like the part that bent is the plate that the vertical tube is
welded to.  On #1029, there are 2 screws (inboard) that attach a
z-shaped plate to the deck.  The stanchion is welded to that.  It is
clearly designed to hold things in the boat and to give in to forces
outside the boat.

Is your procedure to:

1. Loosen the screws.
2. Straighten (with room to over bend)
3. Seal
4. Tighten screws

How long are the screws ... I don't want to tear them out.

Steve
 

-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of
conneelythomas at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 5:39 PM
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Stanchion replacement

The question for me is How bad was it bent ??  Mine were bent over the
winter by the cover I installed .  My boat yard sugested  to use a large
pole , put over the stanchion and bend it back.  I did this , then I got
some sealer, pulled the stanchion back a bit , put sealer in and bent
the stanchion back.   I hope this will work !!  It looks ok Tom 916 





-----Original Message-----
From: Wash, Steve <wash at advantageelectronics.com>
To: C320-List <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Sent: Tue, Jun 1, 2010 3:59 pm
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Stanchion replacement


Thanks ... I'll try that.
Steve

-----Original Message-----
rom: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Pat oriarty
ent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 3:58 PM
o: C320-List at Catalina320.com
ubject: Re: [C320-list] Stanchion replacement I have had the aft tank
out of the boat and it is not that hard to emove. One fitting and two
wood cross braces and it will slip back oward the fill line which is the
hardest to remove.
Pat #130
At 02:37 PM 6/1/2010, you wrote:
Hello

It was a splash with a few calamities this weekend.

The biggest problem was that I bent a starboard stanchion inward (they
stuck us in a short, shallow (narrow) slip for launch and a boat on the
>other side had an anchor sticking out that I scraped against while
backing out.  I can never get enough speed to have steerage with the 2
blade prop.  It is the one at the widest part of the boat (near the side
stays).

It didn't damage the fiberglass (thank God) ... There are two screws
holding it on .... Now the question:

Is this a bolt (with a nut) or a screw? ... When it is removed and
re-installed, does it need some sort of goo to keep water out?

Thanks in advance ...

The other goof of the weekend was when the cap for the aft tank
skittered forward and amazingly slipped into the thin space between the
>tank and the bulkhead.  Needless to say there is no hand small enough
to coax it out.  I went to Lowes and bought a 3" pipe plug and put a lot
of Teflon tape on it ...

I've got an email off to Dani at Catalina with my shopping list.

It is a good thing this is such a nice boat.

Steve Wash #1029


-----Original Message-----
From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
[mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Chris
Burti
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 3:16 PM
To: C320-List at catalina320.com
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Starting Battery

;~)

On Tue, Jun 1, 2010 at 3:08 PM, Jeff Hare <catalina at thehares.com>
rote:

 > No problem. Send me a draft and I'll review it. ...in case I lied
somewhere
 > along the way.   :)
 >  -----Original Message-----
 > From: Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com>  > Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010
14:33:43  > To: <C320-List at catalina320.com>  > Subject: Re: [C320-list]
Starting Battery  >  > Hey Jeff,  > Any objection to my editing this
into a tech article and stealing  > any photos that I can find off the
website?
 >
 > On Tue, Jun 1, 2010 at 1:29 PM, <catalina at thehares.com> wrote:
 >
 > > Hey Paul,
 > >
 > > It should work fine.  The wires that might be on the forward  > >
battery

 > > terminals are:  (Sorry this got longer than I anticipated)  > >  >
> Fwd 4d GROUND:
 > > 1) A large BLACK ground wire connecting to the other 4D ground  > >
terminal  > > 2) A smaller BLACK ground wire going to the Windlass
ground  > >  > > Fwd 4d POWER:
 > > 3) A Large RED power going to the battery selector switch  > > 4) A
smaller RED power coming from the battery Charger.
 > > 5) A smaller RED power going to the Windlass breaker  > >  > > The
general idea here is to jumper the pair of 4Ds in Parallel. (+
> > > to +) and (- to -) The Grounds are already connected by a short
 > > jumper.  You
 > just
 > > do the same thing with the Power terminals.
 > >
 > > Then on the forward 4D: you remove the wire going to the selector
> > (#3  > > above) and the Shore Power wire (#4 above) and connect
those to  > > the power terminal of the starting battery.
 > >
 > > For the Negative terminal of the starting battery, you simply need
> > > to add
 > a
 > > short FAT jumper over to the Negative terminal of the forward 4D  >
> to  > complete  > > the task.
 > >
 > > So you end up with:
 > > ===================
 > > * A single large house battery bank that will provide a few more  >
> usable  > Amp  > > hours than when using them individually.  The
battery selector  > > position  > that  > > used to select the AFT 4D is
now the "House" battery.
 > >
 > > * An emergency Starting battery that can be selected by using the
> selector  > > position that used to be the FORWARD 4D.  This is now
the Starting"
 > > battery.
 > >
 > > * Normally you can just leave the battery switch selected to House"

 > > and use the house bank to start the engine, and run the world.  If
> > > the house bank won't crank the engine because it's too run down,
 > > just switch to the Starting battery and start it up.  It'll be  > >
fully

 > > charged since it's isolated from the house bank.  Switch to ALL  >
> when

 > > motoring to recharge
 > the
 > > house bank and top off the starting battery.
 > >
 > > NOTE: The Shore Power Charger will charge both the house and  > >
starting battery *automatically* whenever you're plugged in  > >
regardless of what you  > do  > > with the selector switch since it
bypasses the selector switch.
 > >
 > > My Recommendation is to add a Blue Seas ACR (my preference) or  > >
battery combiner that will automatically keep the starting battery
> > > charged
 > whenever
 > > there is a charge source on the house battery.  Then, for all  > >
intents and purposes, you just leave the selector set to "House" 
 > > and

 > > the starting battery is automatically maintained both when  > >
motoring and when plugged  > into  > > shore power.
 > >
 > > It's a great upgrade to add a Link 2000 monitor or digital volt  >
> meter on the panel to keep an eye on battery voltages.  The analog
> > > meter on the
 > panel
 > > is really useless. :)
 > >
 > > I would also suggest an automotive AGM starting battery.  An Exide
> Orbital  > > or something similar. They can be mounted in any
position, charge  > > very  > fast  > > and don't leak.  Don't make the
mistake of getting a combination  > > deep cycle/starting battery for
this, this is important.
 > >
 > > BTW, my starting battery is sitting on a shelf I added in the  > >
space just forward of the forward 4D.  I think there are pictures  > >
of the shelf on  > the  > > website.
 > >
 > > Cheers!
 > > -Jeff
 > >
 > > PS: Feel free to give me a call on my cell anytime if you just  > >
want to  > chat  > > about details or alternatives.  (603) 490-9624  > >
> >  > > Quoting Paul Adison <pjaarch at verizon.net>:
 > >
 > > I love the idea of this but does this really work?  I have (3)  > >
wires  > >> running to the terminals on the forward battery (#2).  I
don't  > >> know

 > >> what they all are.  The wiring diagram only shows 1 wire to each
> >> terminal.  Don't I have to isolate only the wire from the switch  >
>> to

 > >> the new starting battery?  Then I can run the 2 4D batteries  in
> >> parallel as mentioned below.  Another friend of mine ran a new 4D
> > >> from the port side and ran it parallel to battery #1.  Very
imple.

 > >> My boat lists to port and I don't want to add any more weight to
> >> the port side.  I would love to know the answer to this.  I feel
that I am missing something.
 > >>
 > >> On May 26, 2010, at 8:39 PM, Robert Seastream wrote:
 > >>
 > >> One of the simplest solutions comes from Jeff Hare.  Presuming  >
>> your  > >>>  batteries are under the starboard settee, place whatever
'starting'
 > >>>  battery you purchase in the space forward of those batteries.
 > Disconnect
 > >>> the leads from the battery furthest forward (battery 1,  I  > >>>
think),

 > >>> and connect those leads to the 'starting' battery.  Next,  buy  >
>>> two

 > >>> heavy
 > gauge
 > >>> battery cables (3 feet or so), and parallel the  original house
> >>> battery  > 1 to  > >>> battery 2.  The end result is that  you'll
have a 'start' 
 > >>> battery on position one of the battery  switch, and have both
house'
 > >>> batteries on position 2 of the  battery switch.  I put black  >
>>> tape over switch  > position 1  > >>> as a  caution that it wasn't
to be used as a 'house' battery.
 > >>>
 > >>> Bob Seastream
 > >>> Intuition # 906
 > >>>
 > >>>
 > >>> On May 26, 2010, at 4:51 PM, jpmesa at aol.com wrote:
 > >>>
 > >>> Ours is under the starboard sette the area (middle) next to the
>  holding  > >>>> tank.  We also have an extra battery switch so we can
separate
> > >>>> the
 > starter
 > >>>> battery from the main system when we are at  anchor.  John
Holokai  > 2  > >>>>  > >>>>  > >>>> -----Original Message-----  > >>>>
From: Sam & Suz Weston <ssweston at embarqmail.com>  > >>>> To: C320-List
<C320-List at Catalina320.com>  > >>>> Sent: Wed, May 26, 2010 12:43 pm  >
>>>> Subject: [C320-list] Starting Battery  > >>>>  > >>>>  > >>>> I'm
considering adding a starting battery to complement my two D-4's.
 > >>>>  Could
 > >>>> omeone help me with the placement of the battery and the  > >>>>
connection process ?
 > >>>>
 > >>>>
 > >>>
 > >
 > >
 > >
 >
 >
 > --
 > Chris Burti Farmville, NC
 >



--
Chris Burti Farmville, NC
Pat Moriarty
SI Urethanes Inc
H: 800-888-5156  Fax: 512-837-8733
lease visit our web site at
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