[C320-list] Stanchion replacement - Shrink Wrap Causation - Winterization

[Robert E. Sloat]

The drill I used here in southern Lake Michigan to prevent stanchions from 
bending in caused by shrink wrap is to support a few of the stanchions with 
small wooden 2X2 inch boards.

I use the cheapest 2X2s you can find at a lumber yard.  You place them 
between the secondary winches at the cabin top and the stanchion close to 
each winch, between the ss hand holds on the cabin top and the stanchions 
opposite them and one support between the forward stanchions near the front 
of the cabin.

The shrink wrap guy will do this for a charge, but I make my own and hook 
them up right after haul out just before the shrink wrap goes on. My own 
supports fit the boat much better than what the shrink wrap folks can do 
generally.

Here's what I do.  Get a 1" hole borer for your drill and buy a few 8 foot 
2X2s.  Then take one of the 2X2s and bore a 1" hole through it a few inches 
from the end.  Then cut the 2X2 right through the middle of the hole.  That 
end fits on the stanchion.  You then measure where the end of the 2X2 will 
touch the winch, hand hold or other stanchion and add a little extra length 
so the board fits snuggly between the two contact points.  Bore a 1 " hole 
at that point and then cut through the middle of this  1 " hole.  It is a 
lot easier to bore the hole through the board and then cut through the hole 
than to try to put half a hole on the end of the 2X2.

On the supports that go between the stanchion and the hand holds on the 
cabin top one hole is vertical and one is horizontal.  On the support that 
goes between the secondary winch and the stanchion, you may have to flatten 
the side of the support that touches the winch since the winch is much 
larger diameter that 1."  When done you will have 5 supports to add to the 
pile of boat stuff in the basement or garage.

After installation, mark each support so you know where it goes next year. 
The boat is not always symmetrical so supports opposite each other may vary
by an inch or more.

I was going to use PVC pipe with 1" ID fitting on the end but the smaller 
PVC does not take compression loading and buckles.  The low tech 2X2s take 
compression loading much better than small diameter PVC pipe.

You could get some larger diameter PVC pipe for support and get the PVC 
fittings to neck down to a 1 ID PVC fitting but I would rather devote skills 
to higher-end work.

If you want you can add a support across the bow pulpit and the stern rails 
but they are well supported and on my boat don't bend inward from shrink 
wrap.

You could keep the supports on during the season just to try to prevent 
inward bending cause by collisions, but they cause havoc when trying to get 
around on deck!

Bob Sloat
Savannah Hull 894 (2002)
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jack McDonough" <mcdonough5 at verizon.net>
To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 5:31 PM
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Stanchion replacement


>A couple of my stanchions were bent inward the winter before last by the 
>shrink wrap. Anyone have that problem? The guy that did the shrink wrap 
>said it probably resulted from the weight of snow over the winter. I bent 
>them back but they're still not plumb.
>
> jack
> "sure bet"  #947
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <conneelythomas at aol.com>
> To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 5:38 PM
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Stanchion replacement
>
>
>> The question for me is How bad was it bent ??  Mine were bent over the 
>> winter by the cover I installed .  My boat yard sugested  to use a large 
>> pole , put over the stanchion and bend it back.  I did this , then I got 
>> some sealer, pulled the stanchion back a bit , put sealer in and bent the 
>> stanchion back.   I hope this will work !!  It looks ok Tom 916
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: Wash, Steve <wash at advantageelectronics.com>
>> To: C320-List <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
>> Sent: Tue, Jun 1, 2010 3:59 pm
>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Stanchion replacement
>>
>>
>> Thanks ... I'll try that.
>> Steve
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> rom: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
>> mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Pat
>> oriarty
>> ent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 3:58 PM
>> o: C320-List at Catalina320.com
>> ubject: Re: [C320-list] Stanchion replacement
>> I have had the aft tank out of the boat and it is not that hard to
>> emove. One fitting and two wood cross braces and it will slip back
>> oward the fill line which is the hardest to remove.
>> Pat #130
>> At 02:37 PM 6/1/2010, you wrote:
>> Hello
>>
>> It was a splash with a few calamities this weekend.
>>
>> The biggest problem was that I bent a starboard stanchion inward (they
>> stuck us in a short, shallow (narrow) slip for launch and a boat on the
>>>other side had an anchor sticking out that I scraped against while
>> backing out.  I can never get enough speed to have steerage with the 2
>> blade prop.  It is the one at the widest part of the boat (near the
>> side stays).
>>
>> It didn't damage the fiberglass (thank God) ... There are two screws
>> holding it on .... Now the question:
>>
>> Is this a bolt (with a nut) or a screw? ... When it is removed and
>> re-installed, does it need some sort of goo to keep water out?
>>
>> Thanks in advance ...
>>
>> The other goof of the weekend was when the cap for the aft tank
>> skittered forward and amazingly slipped into the thin space between the
>>>tank and the bulkhead.  Needless to say there is no hand small enough
>> to coax it out.  I went to Lowes and bought a 3" pipe plug and put a
>> lot of Teflon tape on it ...
>>
>> I've got an email off to Dani at Catalina with my shopping list.
>>
>> It is a good thing this is such a nice boat.
>>
>> Steve Wash #1029
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
>> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Chris
>> Burti
>> Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 3:16 PM
>> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Starting Battery
>>
>> ;~)
>>
>> On Tue, Jun 1, 2010 at 3:08 PM, Jeff Hare <catalina at thehares.com>
>> rote:
>>
>> > No problem. Send me a draft and I'll review it. ...in case I lied
>> somewhere
>> > along the way.   :)
>> >  -----Original Message-----
>> > From: Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com>
>> > Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 14:33:43
>> > To: <C320-List at catalina320.com>
>> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Starting Battery
>> >
>> > Hey Jeff,
>> > Any objection to my editing this into a tech article and stealing
>> > any photos that I can find off the website?
>> >
>> > On Tue, Jun 1, 2010 at 1:29 PM, <catalina at thehares.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > > Hey Paul,
>> > >
>> > > It should work fine.  The wires that might be on the forward
>> > > battery
>>
>> > > terminals are:  (Sorry this got longer than I anticipated)
>> > >
>> > > Fwd 4d GROUND:
>> > > 1) A large BLACK ground wire connecting to the other 4D ground
>> > > terminal
>> > > 2) A smaller BLACK ground wire going to the Windlass ground
>> > >
>> > > Fwd 4d POWER:
>> > > 3) A Large RED power going to the battery selector switch
>> > > 4) A smaller RED power coming from the battery Charger.
>> > > 5) A smaller RED power going to the Windlass breaker
>> > >
>> > > The general idea here is to jumper the pair of 4Ds in Parallel. (+
>>> > > to +) and (- to -) The Grounds are already connected by a short
>> > > jumper.  You
>> > just
>> > > do the same thing with the Power terminals.
>> > >
>> > > Then on the forward 4D: you remove the wire going to the selector
>> > > (#3
>> > > above) and the Shore Power wire (#4 above) and connect those to
>> > > the power terminal of the starting battery.
>> > >
>> > > For the Negative terminal of the starting battery, you simply need
>>> > > to add
>> > a
>> > > short FAT jumper over to the Negative terminal of the forward 4D
>> > > to
>> > complete
>> > > the task.
>> > >
>> > > So you end up with:
>> > > ===================
>> > > * A single large house battery bank that will provide a few more
>> > > usable
>> > Amp
>> > > hours than when using them individually.  The battery selector
>> > > position
>> > that
>> > > used to select the AFT 4D is now the "House" battery.
>> > >
>> > > * An emergency Starting battery that can be selected by using the
>> > selector
>> > > position that used to be the FORWARD 4D.  This is now the
>> Starting"
>> > > battery.
>> > >
>> > > * Normally you can just leave the battery switch selected to
>> House"
>>
>> > > and use the house bank to start the engine, and run the world.  If
>>> > > the house bank won't crank the engine because it's too run down,
>> > > just switch to the Starting battery and start it up.  It'll be
>> > > fully
>>
>> > > charged since it's isolated from the house bank.  Switch to ALL
>> > > when
>>
>> > > motoring to recharge
>> > the
>> > > house bank and top off the starting battery.
>> > >
>> > > NOTE: The Shore Power Charger will charge both the house and
>> > > starting battery *automatically* whenever you're plugged in
>> > > regardless of what you
>> > do
>> > > with the selector switch since it bypasses the selector switch.
>> > >
>> > > My Recommendation is to add a Blue Seas ACR (my preference) or
>> > > battery combiner that will automatically keep the starting battery
>>> > > charged
>> > whenever
>> > > there is a charge source on the house battery.  Then, for all
>> > > intents and purposes, you just leave the selector set to "House"
>> > > and
>>
>> > > the starting battery is automatically maintained both when
>> > > motoring and when plugged
>> > into
>> > > shore power.
>> > >
>> > > It's a great upgrade to add a Link 2000 monitor or digital volt
>> > > meter on the panel to keep an eye on battery voltages.  The analog
>>> > > meter on the
>> > panel
>> > > is really useless. :)
>> > >
>> > > I would also suggest an automotive AGM starting battery.  An Exide
>> > Orbital
>> > > or something similar. They can be mounted in any position, charge
>> > > very
>> > fast
>> > > and don't leak.  Don't make the mistake of getting a combination
>> > > deep cycle/starting battery for this, this is important.
>> > >
>> > > BTW, my starting battery is sitting on a shelf I added in the
>> > > space just forward of the forward 4D.  I think there are pictures
>> > > of the shelf on
>> > the
>> > > website.
>> > >
>> > > Cheers!
>> > > -Jeff
>> > >
>> > > PS: Feel free to give me a call on my cell anytime if you just
>> > > want to
>> > chat
>> > > about details or alternatives.  (603) 490-9624
>> > >
>> > >
>> > > Quoting Paul Adison <pjaarch at verizon.net>:
>> > >
>> > > I love the idea of this but does this really work?  I have (3)
>> > > wires
>> > >> running to the terminals on the forward battery (#2).  I don't
>> > >> know
>>
>> > >> what they all are.  The wiring diagram only shows 1 wire to each
>> > >> terminal.  Don't I have to isolate only the wire from the switch
>> > >> to
>>
>> > >> the new starting battery?  Then I can run the 2 4D batteries  in
>> > >> parallel as mentioned below.  Another friend of mine ran a new 4D
>>> > >> from the port side and ran it parallel to battery #1.  Very
>> imple.
>>
>> > >> My boat lists to port and I don't want to add any more weight to
>> > >> the port side.  I would love to know the answer to this.  I feel
>> that I am missing something.
>> > >>
>> > >> On May 26, 2010, at 8:39 PM, Robert Seastream wrote:
>> > >>
>> > >> One of the simplest solutions comes from Jeff Hare.  Presuming
>> > >> your
>> > >>>  batteries are under the starboard settee, place whatever
>> 'starting'
>> > >>>  battery you purchase in the space forward of those batteries.
>> > Disconnect
>> > >>> the leads from the battery furthest forward (battery 1,  I
>> > >>> think),
>>
>> > >>> and connect those leads to the 'starting' battery.  Next,  buy
>> > >>> two
>>
>> > >>> heavy
>> > gauge
>> > >>> battery cables (3 feet or so), and parallel the  original house
>> > >>> battery
>> > 1 to
>> > >>> battery 2.  The end result is that  you'll have a 'start'
>> > >>> battery on position one of the battery  switch, and have both
>> house'
>> > >>> batteries on position 2 of the  battery switch.  I put black
>> > >>> tape over switch
>> > position 1
>> > >>> as a  caution that it wasn't to be used as a 'house' battery.
>> > >>>
>> > >>> Bob Seastream
>> > >>> Intuition # 906
>> > >>>
>> > >>>
>> > >>> On May 26, 2010, at 4:51 PM, jpmesa at aol.com wrote:
>> > >>>
>> > >>> Ours is under the starboard sette the area (middle) next to the
>> >  holding
>> > >>>> tank.  We also have an extra battery switch so we can  separate
>>> > >>>> the
>> > starter
>> > >>>> battery from the main system when we are at  anchor.  John
>> Holokai
>> > 2
>> > >>>>
>> > >>>>
>> > >>>> -----Original Message-----
>> > >>>> From: Sam & Suz Weston <ssweston at embarqmail.com>
>> > >>>> To: C320-List <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
>> > >>>> Sent: Wed, May 26, 2010 12:43 pm
>> > >>>> Subject: [C320-list] Starting Battery
>> > >>>>
>> > >>>>
>> > >>>> I'm considering adding a starting battery to complement my two
>> D-4's.
>> > >>>>  Could
>> > >>>> omeone help me with the placement of the battery and the
>> > >>>> connection process ?
>> > >>>>
>> > >>>>
>> > >>>
>> > >
>> > >
>> > >
>> >
>> >
>> > --
>> > Chris Burti Farmville, NC
>> >
>>
>>
>>
>> --
>> Chris Burti Farmville, NC
>> Pat Moriarty
>> SI Urethanes Inc
>> H: 800-888-5156  Fax: 512-837-8733
>> lease visit our web site at
>> ww.psiurethanes.com
>>
>>
>