[C320-list] Stanchion replacement
Chris Burti
clburti at gmail.com
Tue Jun 1 18:45:22 PDT 2010
I'm with Jeff on this one. Generally speaking, it isn't a good idea to bend
the stanchions while bolted to the deck. Bending weakens the deck structure
to a degree and wallows out the holes. Remove, straighten, rebed and
retighten.
On Tue, Jun 1, 2010 at 8:10 PM, Jeff Hare <catalina at thehares.com> wrote:
> Hi Steve,
>
> The way the stanchions are made, they don't have much strength with inward
> pressure, as you discovered.
>
> I would consider removing it from the deck but leaving the lifelines
> attached.
>
> Then maybe try using a heavy vice bolted to a board you can stand on and
> try to straighten the plate that way.
>
> You can easily chip the gel coat on the toe rail if you're trying to bend
> it while attached to the boat.
>
> Just a thought.
> -Jeff
> -----Original Message-----
> From: "Wash, Steve" <wash at advantageelectronics.com>
> Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 18:46:38
> To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Stanchion replacement
>
> It looks to be about 20-30 degrees. You can still walk past it, but it
> will certainly scrape you up when you go forward to get to the anchor
> locker.
>
> It looks like the part that bent is the plate that the vertical tube is
> welded to. On #1029, there are 2 screws (inboard) that attach a
> z-shaped plate to the deck. The stanchion is welded to that. It is
> clearly designed to hold things in the boat and to give in to forces
> outside the boat.
>
> Is your procedure to:
>
> 1. Loosen the screws.
> 2. Straighten (with room to over bend)
> 3. Seal
> 4. Tighten screws
>
> How long are the screws ... I don't want to tear them out.
>
> Steve
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of
> conneelythomas at aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 5:39 PM
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Stanchion replacement
>
> The question for me is How bad was it bent ?? Mine were bent over the
> winter by the cover I installed . My boat yard suggested to use a large
> pole , put over the stanchion and bend it back. I did this , then I got
> some sealer, pulled the stanchion back a bit , put sealer in and bent
> the stanchion back. I hope this will work !! It looks ok Tom 916
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Wash, Steve <wash at advantageelectronics.com>
> To: C320-List <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> Sent: Tue, Jun 1, 2010 3:59 pm
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Stanchion replacement
>
>
> Thanks ... I'll try that.
> Steve
>
> -----Original Message-----
> rom: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
> mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Pat oriarty
> ent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 3:58 PM
> o: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> subject: Re: [C320-list] Stanchion replacement I have had the aft tank
> out of the boat and it is not that hard to remove. One fitting and two
> wood cross braces and it will slip back toward the fill line which is the
> hardest to remove.
> Pat #130
> At 02:37 PM 6/1/2010, you wrote:
> Hello
>
> It was a splash with a few calamities this weekend.
>
> The biggest problem was that I bent a starboard stanchion inward (they
> stuck us in a short, shallow (narrow) slip for launch and a boat on the
> >other side had an anchor sticking out that I scraped against while
> backing out. I can never get enough speed to have steerage with the 2
> blade prop. It is the one at the widest part of the boat (near the side
> stays).
>
> It didn't damage the fiberglass (thank God) ... There are two screws
> holding it on .... Now the question:
>
> Is this a bolt (with a nut) or a screw? ... When it is removed and
> re-installed, does it need some sort of goo to keep water out?
>
> Thanks in advance ...
>
> The other goof of the weekend was when the cap for the aft tank
> skittered forward and amazingly slipped into the thin space between the
> >tank and the bulkhead. Needless to say there is no hand small enough
> to coax it out. I went to Lowes and bought a 3" pipe plug and put a lot
> of Teflon tape on it ...
>
> I've got an email off to Dani at Catalina with my shopping list.
>
> It is a good thing this is such a nice boat.
>
> Steve Wash #1029
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Chris
> Burti
> Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 3:16 PM
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Starting Battery
>
> ;~)
>
> On Tue, Jun 1, 2010 at 3:08 PM, Jeff Hare <catalina at thehares.com>
> rote:
>
> > No problem. Send me a draft and I'll review it. ...in case I lied
> somewhere
> > along the way. :)
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com> > Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010
> 14:33:43 > To: <C320-List at catalina320.com> > Subject: Re: [C320-list]
> Starting Battery > > Hey Jeff, > Any objection to my editing this
> into a tech article and stealing > any photos that I can find off the
> website?
> >
> > On Tue, Jun 1, 2010 at 1:29 PM, <catalina at thehares.com> wrote:
> >
> > > Hey Paul,
> > >
> > > It should work fine. The wires that might be on the forward > >
> battery
>
> > > terminals are: (Sorry this got longer than I anticipated) > > >
> > Fwd 4d GROUND:
> > > 1) A large BLACK ground wire connecting to the other 4D ground > >
> terminal > > 2) A smaller BLACK ground wire going to the Windlass
> ground > > > > Fwd 4d POWER:
> > > 3) A Large RED power going to the battery selector switch > > 4) A
> smaller RED power coming from the battery Charger.
> > > 5) A smaller RED power going to the Windlass breaker > > > > The
> general idea here is to jumper the pair of 4Ds in Parallel. (+
> > > > to +) and (- to -) The Grounds are already connected by a short
> > > jumper. You
> > just
> > > do the same thing with the Power terminals.
> > >
> > > Then on the forward 4D: you remove the wire going to the selector
> > > (#3 > > above) and the Shore Power wire (#4 above) and connect
> those to > > the power terminal of the starting battery.
> > >
> > > For the Negative terminal of the starting battery, you simply need
> > > > to add
> > a
> > > short FAT jumper over to the Negative terminal of the forward 4D >
> > to > complete > > the task.
> > >
> > > So you end up with:
> > > ===================
> > > * A single large house battery bank that will provide a few more >
> > usable > Amp > > hours than when using them individually. The
> battery selector > > position > that > > used to select the AFT 4D is
> now the "House" battery.
> > >
> > > * An emergency Starting battery that can be selected by using the
> > selector > > position that used to be the FORWARD 4D. This is now
> the Starting"
> > > battery.
> > >
> > > * Normally you can just leave the battery switch selected to House"
>
> > > and use the house bank to start the engine, and run the world. If
> > > > the house bank won't crank the engine because it's too run down,
> > > just switch to the Starting battery and start it up. It'll be > >
> fully
>
> > > charged since it's isolated from the house bank. Switch to ALL >
> > when
>
> > > motoring to recharge
> > the
> > > house bank and top off the starting battery.
> > >
> > > NOTE: The Shore Power Charger will charge both the house and > >
> starting battery *automatically* whenever you're plugged in > >
> regardless of what you > do > > with the selector switch since it
> bypasses the selector switch.
> > >
> > > My Recommendation is to add a Blue Seas ACR (my preference) or > >
> battery combiner that will automatically keep the starting battery
> > > > charged
> > whenever
> > > there is a charge source on the house battery. Then, for all > >
> intents and purposes, you just leave the selector set to "House"
> > > and
>
> > > the starting battery is automatically maintained both when > >
> motoring and when plugged > into > > shore power.
> > >
> > > It's a great upgrade to add a Link 2000 monitor or digital volt >
> > meter on the panel to keep an eye on battery voltages. The analog
> > > > meter on the
> > panel
> > > is really useless. :)
> > >
> > > I would also suggest an automotive AGM starting battery. An Exide
> > Orbital > > or something similar. They can be mounted in any
> position, charge > > very > fast > > and don't leak. Don't make the
> mistake of getting a combination > > deep cycle/starting battery for
> this, this is important.
> > >
> > > BTW, my starting battery is sitting on a shelf I added in the > >
> space just forward of the forward 4D. I think there are pictures > >
> of the shelf on > the > > website.
> > >
> > > Cheers!
> > > -Jeff
> > >
> > > PS: Feel free to give me a call on my cell anytime if you just > >
> want to > chat > > about details or alternatives. (603) 490-9624 > >
> > > > > Quoting Paul Addison <pjaarch at verizon.net>:
> > >
> > > I love the idea of this but does this really work? I have (3) > >
> wires > >> running to the terminals on the forward battery (#2). I
> don't > >> know
>
> > >> what they all are. The wiring diagram only shows 1 wire to each
> > >> terminal. Don't I have to isolate only the wire from the switch >
> >> to
>
> > >> the new starting battery? Then I can run the 2 4D batteries in
> > >> parallel as mentioned below. Another friend of mine ran a new 4D
> > > >> from the port side and ran it parallel to battery #1. Very
> apple.
>
> > >> My boat lists to port and I don't want to add any more weight to
> > >> the port side. I would love to know the answer to this. I feel
> that I am missing something.
> > >>
> > >> On May 26, 2010, at 8:39 PM, Robert Seastream wrote:
> > >>
> > >> One of the simplest solutions comes from Jeff Hare. Presuming >
> >> your > >>> batteries are under the starboard settee, place whatever
> 'starting'
> > >>> battery you purchase in the space forward of those batteries.
> > Disconnect
> > >>> the leads from the battery furthest forward (battery 1, I > >>>
> think),
>
> > >>> and connect those leads to the 'starting' battery. Next, buy >
> >>> two
>
> > >>> heavy
> > gauge
> > >>> battery cables (3 feet or so), and parallel the original house
> > >>> battery > 1 to > >>> battery 2. The end result is that you'll
> have a 'start'
> > >>> battery on position one of the battery switch, and have both
> house'
> > >>> batteries on position 2 of the battery switch. I put black >
> >>> tape over switch > position 1 > >>> as a caution that it wasn't
> to be used as a 'house' battery.
> > >>>
> > >>> Bob Seastream
> > >>> Intuition # 906
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> On May 26, 2010, at 4:51 PM, jpmesa at aol.com wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> Ours is under the starboard settle the area (middle) next to the
> > holding > >>>> tank. We also have an extra battery switch so we can
> separate
> > > >>>> the
> > starter
> > >>>> battery from the main system when we are at anchor. John
> Holokai > 2 > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> -----Original Message----- > >>>>
> From: Sam & Sue Weston <ssweston at embarqmail.com> > >>>> To: C320-List
> <C320-List at Catalina320.com> > >>>> Sent: Wed, May 26, 2010 12:43 pm >
> >>>> Subject: [C320-list] Starting Battery > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> I'm
> considering adding a starting battery to complement my two D-4's.
> > >>>> Could
> > >>>> someone help me with the placement of the battery and the > >>>>
> connection process ?
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Chris Burti Farmville, NC
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Chris Burti Farmville, NC
> Pat Moriarty
> SI Urethanes Inc
> H: 800-888-5156 Fax: 512-837-8733
> lease visit our web site at
> ww.psiurethanes.com
>
>
>
--
Chris Burti Farmville, NC
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