[C320-list] Stanchion replacement
pat reynolds
lorasalum at yahoo.com
Wed Jun 2 07:58:29 PDT 2010
The stanchions on 249 (1995) have one large nut and two smaller nuts to remove. While you may feel them with your fingers, access to them is difficult. I removed the wood strip inside and cut an access hole in the liner. Remove the nuts and clean the area under the stanchion and then rebend. If you get leakage in the stanchions your wood paneling inside will mildew and blacken.
--- On Tue, 6/1/10, Wash, Steve <wash at advantageelectronics.com> wrote:
> From: Wash, Steve <wash at advantageelectronics.com>
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Stanchion replacement
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Date: Tuesday, June 1, 2010, 5:46 PM
> It looks to be about 20-30
> degrees. You can still walk past it, but it
> will certainly scrape you up when you go forward to get to
> the anchor
> locker.
>
> It looks like the part that bent is the plate that the
> vertical tube is
> welded to. On #1029, there are 2 screws (inboard)
> that attach a
> z-shaped plate to the deck. The stanchion is welded
> to that. It is
> clearly designed to hold things in the boat and to give in
> to forces
> outside the boat.
>
> Is your procedure to:
>
> 1. Loosen the screws.
> 2. Straighten (with room to over bend)
> 3. Seal
> 4. Tighten screws
>
> How long are the screws ... I don't want to tear them out.
>
> Steve
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com]
> On Behalf Of
> conneelythomas at aol.com
> Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 5:39 PM
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Stanchion replacement
>
> The question for me is How bad was it bent ?? Mine
> were bent over the
> winter by the cover I installed . My boat yard
> sugested to use a large
> pole , put over the stanchion and bend it back. I did
> this , then I got
> some sealer, pulled the stanchion back a bit , put sealer
> in and bent
> the stanchion back. I hope this will work
> !! It looks ok Tom 916
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Wash, Steve <wash at advantageelectronics.com>
> To: C320-List <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> Sent: Tue, Jun 1, 2010 3:59 pm
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Stanchion replacement
>
>
> Thanks ... I'll try that.
> Steve
>
> -----Original Message-----
> rom: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
> mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com]
> On Behalf Of Pat oriarty
> ent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 3:58 PM
> o: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> ubject: Re: [C320-list] Stanchion replacement I have had
> the aft tank
> out of the boat and it is not that hard to emove. One
> fitting and two
> wood cross braces and it will slip back oward the fill line
> which is the
> hardest to remove.
> Pat #130
> At 02:37 PM 6/1/2010, you wrote:
> Hello
>
> It was a splash with a few calamities this weekend.
>
> The biggest problem was that I bent a starboard stanchion
> inward (they
> stuck us in a short, shallow (narrow) slip for launch and a
> boat on the
> >other side had an anchor sticking out that I scraped
> against while
> backing out. I can never get enough speed to have
> steerage with the 2
> blade prop. It is the one at the widest part of the
> boat (near the side
> stays).
>
> It didn't damage the fiberglass (thank God) ... There are
> two screws
> holding it on .... Now the question:
>
> Is this a bolt (with a nut) or a screw? ... When it is
> removed and
> re-installed, does it need some sort of goo to keep water
> out?
>
> Thanks in advance ...
>
> The other goof of the weekend was when the cap for the aft
> tank
> skittered forward and amazingly slipped into the thin space
> between the
> >tank and the bulkhead. Needless to say there is
> no hand small enough
> to coax it out. I went to Lowes and bought a 3" pipe
> plug and put a lot
> of Teflon tape on it ...
>
> I've got an email off to Dani at Catalina with my shopping
> list.
>
> It is a good thing this is such a nice boat.
>
> Steve Wash #1029
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com]
> On Behalf Of Chris
> Burti
> Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 3:16 PM
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Starting Battery
>
> ;~)
>
> On Tue, Jun 1, 2010 at 3:08 PM, Jeff Hare <catalina at thehares.com>
> rote:
>
> > No problem. Send me a draft and I'll review it. ...in
> case I lied
> somewhere
> > along the way. :)
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: Chris Burti <clburti at gmail.com>
> > Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010
> 14:33:43 > To: <C320-List at catalina320.com>
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list]
> Starting Battery > > Hey Jeff, >
> Any objection to my editing this
> into a tech article and stealing > any photos that
> I can find off the
> website?
> >
> > On Tue, Jun 1, 2010 at 1:29 PM, <catalina at thehares.com>
> wrote:
> >
> > > Hey Paul,
> > >
> > > It should work fine. The wires that might
> be on the forward > >
> battery
>
> > > terminals are: (Sorry this got longer than
> I anticipated) > > >
> > Fwd 4d GROUND:
> > > 1) A large BLACK ground wire connecting to the
> other 4D ground > >
> terminal > > 2) A smaller BLACK ground wire
> going to the Windlass
> ground > > > > Fwd 4d POWER:
> > > 3) A Large RED power going to the battery
> selector switch > > 4) A
> smaller RED power coming from the battery Charger.
> > > 5) A smaller RED power going to the Windlass
> breaker > > > > The
> general idea here is to jumper the pair of 4Ds in Parallel.
> (+
> > > > to +) and (- to -) The Grounds are already
> connected by a short
> > > jumper. You
> > just
> > > do the same thing with the Power terminals.
> > >
> > > Then on the forward 4D: you remove the wire
> going to the selector
> > > (#3 > > above) and the Shore Power
> wire (#4 above) and connect
> those to > > the power terminal of the starting
> battery.
> > >
> > > For the Negative terminal of the starting
> battery, you simply need
> > > > to add
> > a
> > > short FAT jumper over to the Negative terminal
> of the forward 4D >
> > to > complete > > the task.
> > >
> > > So you end up with:
> > > ===================
> > > * A single large house battery bank that will
> provide a few more >
> > usable > Amp > > hours than when
> using them individually. The
> battery selector > > position >
> that > > used to select the AFT 4D is
> now the "House" battery.
> > >
> > > * An emergency Starting battery that can be
> selected by using the
> > selector > > position that used to be the
> FORWARD 4D. This is now
> the Starting"
> > > battery.
> > >
> > > * Normally you can just leave the battery switch
> selected to House"
>
> > > and use the house bank to start the engine, and
> run the world. If
> > > > the house bank won't crank the engine
> because it's too run down,
> > > just switch to the Starting battery and start it
> up. It'll be > >
> fully
>
> > > charged since it's isolated from the house
> bank. Switch to ALL >
> > when
>
> > > motoring to recharge
> > the
> > > house bank and top off the starting battery.
> > >
> > > NOTE: The Shore Power Charger will charge both
> the house and > >
> starting battery *automatically* whenever you're plugged
> in > >
> regardless of what you > do > > with
> the selector switch since it
> bypasses the selector switch.
> > >
> > > My Recommendation is to add a Blue Seas ACR (my
> preference) or > >
> battery combiner that will automatically keep the starting
> battery
> > > > charged
> > whenever
> > > there is a charge source on the house
> battery. Then, for all > >
> intents and purposes, you just leave the selector set to
> "House"
> > > and
>
> > > the starting battery is automatically maintained
> both when > >
> motoring and when plugged > into > >
> shore power.
> > >
> > > It's a great upgrade to add a Link 2000 monitor
> or digital volt >
> > meter on the panel to keep an eye on battery
> voltages. The analog
> > > > meter on the
> > panel
> > > is really useless. :)
> > >
> > > I would also suggest an automotive AGM starting
> battery. An Exide
> > Orbital > > or something similar. They can
> be mounted in any
> position, charge > > very > fast
> > > and don't leak. Don't make the
> mistake of getting a combination > > deep
> cycle/starting battery for
> this, this is important.
> > >
> > > BTW, my starting battery is sitting on a shelf I
> added in the > >
> space just forward of the forward 4D. I think there
> are pictures > >
> of the shelf on > the > > website.
> > >
> > > Cheers!
> > > -Jeff
> > >
> > > PS: Feel free to give me a call on my cell
> anytime if you just > >
> want to > chat > > about details or
> alternatives. (603) 490-9624 > >
> > > > > Quoting Paul Adison <pjaarch at verizon.net>:
> > >
> > > I love the idea of this but does this really
> work? I have (3) > >
> wires > >> running to the terminals on the
> forward battery (#2). I
> don't > >> know
>
> > >> what they all are. The wiring diagram
> only shows 1 wire to each
> > >> terminal. Don't I have to isolate only
> the wire from the switch >
> >> to
>
> > >> the new starting battery? Then I can
> run the 2 4D batteries in
> > >> parallel as mentioned below. Another
> friend of mine ran a new 4D
> > > >> from the port side and ran it parallel
> to battery #1. Very
> imple.
>
> > >> My boat lists to port and I don't want to
> add any more weight to
> > >> the port side. I would love to know the
> answer to this. I feel
> that I am missing something.
> > >>
> > >> On May 26, 2010, at 8:39 PM, Robert
> Seastream wrote:
> > >>
> > >> One of the simplest solutions comes from
> Jeff Hare. Presuming >
> >> your > >>> batteries are
> under the starboard settee, place whatever
> 'starting'
> > >>> battery you purchase in the space
> forward of those batteries.
> > Disconnect
> > >>> the leads from the battery furthest
> forward (battery 1, I > >>>
> think),
>
> > >>> and connect those leads to the
> 'starting' battery. Next, buy >
> >>> two
>
> > >>> heavy
> > gauge
> > >>> battery cables (3 feet or so), and
> parallel the original house
> > >>> battery > 1 to >
> >>> battery 2. The end result is that
> you'll
> have a 'start'
> > >>> battery on position one of the
> battery switch, and have both
> house'
> > >>> batteries on position 2 of the
> battery switch. I put black >
> >>> tape over switch > position 1
> > >>> as a caution that it wasn't
> to be used as a 'house' battery.
> > >>>
> > >>> Bob Seastream
> > >>> Intuition # 906
> > >>>
> > >>>
> > >>> On May 26, 2010, at 4:51 PM, jpmesa at aol.com
> wrote:
> > >>>
> > >>> Ours is under the starboard sette the
> area (middle) next to the
> > holding > >>>> tank.
> We also have an extra battery switch so we can
> separate
> > > >>>> the
> > starter
> > >>>> battery from the main system when we
> are at anchor. John
> Holokai > 2 > >>>> >
> >>>> > >>>> -----Original
> Message----- > >>>>
> From: Sam & Suz Weston <ssweston at embarqmail.com>
> > >>>> To: C320-List
> <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> > >>>> Sent: Wed, May 26, 2010 12:43 pm
> >
> >>>> Subject: [C320-list] Starting
> Battery > >>>> >
> >>>> > >>>> I'm
> considering adding a starting battery to complement my two
> D-4's.
> > >>>> Could
> > >>>> omeone help me with the placement of
> the battery and the > >>>>
> connection process ?
> > >>>>
> > >>>>
> > >>>
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> > --
> > Chris Burti Farmville, NC
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Chris Burti Farmville, NC
> Pat Moriarty
> SI Urethanes Inc
> H: 800-888-5156 Fax: 512-837-8733
> lease visit our web site at
> ww.psiurethanes.com
>
>
>
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