[C320-list] Haul Out

Robert Seastream robert.seastream at comcast.net
Sun Sep 12 16:53:11 PDT 2010


The only way I see to get ALL of the water out of the heater is to  
yank it out and dump it.  Not easy.  Again, as long as there's room  
for any residual water to expand as it freezes (if that happens),  
there's no need to totally drain any tank or put RV antifreeze in it.   
What I do is run a water faucet until it sucks air, indicating that  
the tanks are essentially empty.  Then I disconnect the inlet and  
outlet connections to the water pump and use a shop vac to blow/suck  
(your choice) all water out of the lines.  If there's no water in the  
lines, there's nothing to freeze.  Last, I run the water pump briefly  
with the inlet in a jug of antifreeze to fill just the pump with  
antifreeze.  Much easier, cheaper, and you don't taste antifreeze all  
summer.  I don't put antifreeze in any of my water tanks and haven't  
had freeze damage yet.  BTW, the front tank gravity feeds the back  
tank, which is where the pump draws from anyhow.

Bob Seastream
Intuition # 906


> How many gallons of antifreeze?  Well, that depends.  If you don't  
> bypass the water heater you need at least 6 gallons to fill that up.
>
> I used 10 last year and didn't bypass the water heater.....
>
> Expensive but the bypass thing eludes me.
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joseph Aberdale" <summerwind3 at comcast.net 
> >
> To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 6:19 PM
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Haul Out
>
>
>> Bob,
>>
>> Thanks very much for your response.
>>
>> How do you get access to the inside of the water heater to remove  
>> the remaining water? There is no opening at the top.  Also, where  
>> do you access the anti freeze to check it?
>>
>> About how many gallons of RV Marine anti freeze do you put into  
>> each water tank?
>>
>> Thank you.
>>
>> Joe
>>
>> On Sep 12, 2010, at 3:26 PM, Robert Seastream wrote:
>>
>>> Water heater:  Yes, there's water below the spigot; hard to   
>>> evacuate entirely.  I use a shop vac but know there's still some   
>>> 'dirty water' lurking in the bottom.  There's room for expansion   
>>> (should it freeze), so I don't worry about it much.  Some folks   
>>> yank the heater now and then to give it a thorough flushing, but  
>>> as  long as the water tastes good I wouldn't do it.
>>>
>>> Water filter:  I remove and clean the Shurflo filter as well.  
>>> 'Backflushing' it under a faucet and/or soaking it in a bucket   
>>> seems good enough cleaning.  It looks like it comes apart, but  
>>> I'd  buy a replacement before going that far.
>>>
>>> Antifreeze:  Yes, there's antifreeze permanently inside the  
>>> engine,  just like in your car engine.  The cooling system is  
>>> similar to a  car engine, BUT unlike a car engine, your boat  
>>> engine has no  radiator exposed to outside cooling air.  Instead,  
>>> it has a 'heat  exchanger'.  The engine water pump pushes raw  
>>> seawater over this  heat exchanger, thus cooling the antifreeze  
>>> inside the engine.   Test it if you like, but it's probably going  
>>> to be good for about  10 years without compromise.  How often do  
>>> you change your car  engine antifreeze?  How many hours are on  
>>> your car engine vs your  boat engine?  Something to consider.  In  
>>> any event, if you want to  drain/change your antifreeze, I've  
>>> pulled the procedure from the  list archives and will send it to  
>>> you off list if you wish.
>>>
>>> Bob Seastream
>>> Intuition # 906
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sep 10, 2010, at 7:37 PM, Brad Kuether wrote:
>>>
>>>> I am still trying to understand my water heater...  :)
>>>>
>>>> I have never had the pump apart but likely will this year.
>>>>
>>>> Anti freeze for the engine can be accessed in the engine   
>>>> compartment in a plastic expansion bottle.
>>>>
>>>> You can use one of those anti freeze testers available at auto   
>>>> stores. Suck it in and see what it says.
>>>>
>>>> If you need to add, use the same color.  If you need to   
>>>> change.... That I would get a mechanic for the first time to  
>>>> show  you how.  That is what I am going to do.....
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joseph Aberdale" <summerwind3 at comcast.net 
>>>> >
>>>> To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
>>>> Sent: Friday, September 10, 2010 7:05 PM
>>>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Haul Out
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>> The water heater tank under the sink has a spigot about 8  
>>>>> inches  up from the tank bottom. Is there water in the tank  
>>>>> below the  spigot or does the water only go down to the spigot?   
>>>>> There is  no opening at the top of the tank.
>>>>>
>>>>> I also removed and cleaned the clear plastic filter on the   
>>>>> Shurflo Diaphram pump.  Is the filter supposed to come apart  
>>>>> for  cleaning?
>>>>>
>>>>> Is there antifreeze kept permanently  in one part of the engine  
>>>>> during summer operation? If so, how do I get access to it to   
>>>>> check it?
>>>>>
>>>>> Thanks very much for your responses.  I couldn't do it without  
>>>>> them.
>>>>>
>>>>> Joe
>>>>> #908
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sep 9, 2010, at 9:49 AM, hcreech at comcast.net wrote:
>>>>>
>>>>>> Joe,
>>>>>> Do you mean retractor? If so the procedure is simple, much    
>>>>>> preferred to replacing fuel filters.
>>>>>> I run the engine for at least 10 minuets. Since I am tied up  
>>>>>> in  the slip, the boat that is, I put the engine in gear to  
>>>>>> cause  the  engine to heat faster. Learned this in diesel  
>>>>>> class. After  the  engine is warmed up place the tube down the  
>>>>>> oil dipstick  tube and  start sucking. At the end jiggle the  
>>>>>> tube around to  try to suck up  all the oil possible. Once done  
>>>>>> place an  abundance of paper towels  under the oil filter,  
>>>>>> remove the  filter with a wrench. Replace with  new filter,  
>>>>>> make sure you  oil the O-ring, tighten to directions,  usually  
>>>>>> with hands only.  Then add about two quarts of oil using an   
>>>>>> oil funnel then  monitor with dipstick, DO NOT OVERFILL, if you  
>>>>>> do  remove some.  Close the cap, replace the dipstick, start  
>>>>>> the engine.  The low oil pressure indicator will come on  
>>>>>> briefly but then will  shut  off as oil is pumped. Kill the  
>>>>>> engine, check the dipstick and   add more if necessary. I  
>>>>>> always leave the level about 1/8"  below  the top mark to be  
>>>>>> safe.
>>>>>> Only do the transmission every other year, it always looks  
>>>>>> like  new oil when drained. Hope this helps, any other  
>>>>>> questions?  Just ask.
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Herb Creech
>>>>>> Cloud Chaser #606
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>>>>> From: "Joseph Aberdale" <summerwind3 at comcast.net>
>>>>>> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
>>>>>> Sent: Thursday, September 9, 2010 9:09:55 AM
>>>>>> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Haul Out
>>>>>>
>>>>>> I am in Cape Cod MA and have a Yanmar 3GM30F. I have searched the
>>>>>> Yanmar manual, Catalina manual and this website for an oil change
>>>>>> procedure article and have not found anything. I purchased a  
>>>>>> Marpac
>>>>>> Fluid Tractor. Is it as simple as extracting the present oil and
>>>>>> adding new oil? Same with the transmission oil as well?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Thanks for your responses.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Joe
>>>>>> #908
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On Sep 8, 2010, at 10:52 PM, Brad Kuether wrote:
>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The oil and filter for the motor gets changed prior to haulout,
>>>>>>> regardless of hours. (always!). The oil weight will depend on  
>>>>>>> the
>>>>>>> motor. My Yanmar 3YM30 uses 15W40.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> The transmission fluid is motor oil. Pure SAE 30 weight. It can
>>>>>>> be hard to find.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Check your operators manual for the correct oil weights and
>>>>>>> capacities for both motor and tranny.. If you can't find it  
>>>>>>> check
>>>>>>> the internet you can find a copy there.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Transmission oil doesn't need to be changed every year. If the
>>>>>>> boat is new to you may not be a bad ideal. Mine was dirty and I
>>>>>>> did change it first year. Engine oil, at least once per year,  
>>>>>>> and
>>>>>>> always prior to winter storage.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Also remember to check your anti freeze state. Red is a heavy  
>>>>>>> duty
>>>>>>> multi season, green needs to be changed more often. They don't
>>>>>>> recommend the green stuff, check the specs very carefully, they
>>>>>>> speak to how the stuff reacts with aluminum blocks. I guess if  
>>>>>>> you
>>>>>>> are hauling now you may be in a very cold climate and quite
>>>>>>> possibly your anti freeze needs to be drained.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Where are you... in like northern Canada or something? :) 85 and
>>>>>>> really *nice* here in Maryland.....
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> -Brad, Mary, Monica, and Jarod
>>>>>>> "Independence"
>>>>>>> 2004 Catalina 320 Hull 1006
>>>>>>> Middle River, MD
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Joseph Aberdale"
>>>>>>> <summerwind3 at comcast.net>
>>>>>>> To: <C320-List at catalina320.com>
>>>>>>> Sent: Wednesday, September 08, 2010 10:23 PM
>>>>>>> Subject: [C320-list] Haul Out
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> I am a new C-320 owner and am preparing to haul out my boat for
>>>>>>>> the first time. Should I change both the engine oil and filter
>>>>>>>> and the transmission fluid now or in the spring? If now, what
>>>>>>>> type and weight of engine oil and transmission fluid should  
>>>>>>>> I  use?
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Your comments are very much appreciated. Thank you.
>>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>> Joe
>>>>>>>> #908
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>
>
>




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