[C320-list] Leaking portholes fix?

Tue Mar 8 20:46:38 PST 2011

I've been fixing portlight leaks for some time. First I replaced the O-rings, which fixed the problem for about 18 months, then I followed Jon Vez' excellent advice to replace the caulk in the horizontal gaps between the upper and lower frame. I used white 3M 4000 from West Marine. That was a big improvement, but some of the gaskets were so old and cracked that they needed to be replaced. I bought new gaskets from Downwind Marine in San Diego. It's a slow, tedious job to replace them, but that finally fixed the last of the leaks. After that, I bought replacement portlight lenses from Select Plastics, the installation is simple, and now I can see out clearly again!

John
#271

> From: cdescher at cedtulsa.com
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Date: Tue, 8 Mar 2011 08:40:10 -0600
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Leaking portholes fix?
> 
> I've changed several of these, but it was unlikely that this needed to be
> done. At least in my case I believe that it was a waste of time. Besides
> that, it's kind of difficult and no fun. I think that most of us have found
> that the leaks were usually at the frame seams or in the O rings.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com]On Behalf Of Bochniak,
> Dan J.
> Sent: Tuesday, March 08, 2011 8:32 AM
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Leaking portholes fix?
> 
> 
> Has anybody changed the rubber gasket to prevent leaks?
> -----Original Message-----
> From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Bill Sloane
> Sent: Tuesday, March 01, 2011 10:38 PM
> To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] Leaking portholes fix?
> 
> Your directions make sense to me Jon.
> 
> Thanks, Bill.
> 
> On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 9:03 AM, Jon Vez <jonvez at comcast.net> wrote:
> 
> > Bill,
> >
> > One word of warning--when you tighten the screws on the frame, be *very*
> > careful not to strip the holes--the aluminum is quite soft. Mine were
> loose
> > and I started with this step, but alas was not my leaking problem.
> >
> > Yes you can get the 3M caulk from WM, however I found that the 3 stores in
> > my area only carried the white, so I had to order. I ended up ordering
> from
> > Defender. If I don't need something yesterday, I tend to order from them.
> > Unfortunately it only comes in the 10 oz cartridge, which is way more than
> > you will need.
> >
> > Here's what I did--
> >
> > 1. I used an exacto knife to cut out all of the grey caulk on both sides
> of
> > the frame. If you go to a home depot or crafts type store you can find an
> > angled exacto with handle that makes this job much easier than a standard
> > razor. This was very straightforward and not hard to do. You will find
> that
> > the grey caulk has hardened to almost a plastic consistency, so once you
> > get
> > a start you can pull most of it out with your hands.
> >
> > 2. I cleaned up any remnants of the old caulk with a dental pick and then
> > swabbed the area with denatured alcohol to clean up the surfaces for good
> > adhesion
> >
> > 3. Using blue painters tape, carefully tape around the edges of the
> > horizontal gaps. I also taped the back of the open seam (the opening on
> the
> > inside of the boat) to prevent the caulk from oozing inside.
> >
> > 4. I bought several small syringes from West Marine--these are typically
> > used for working with resins and epoxies. I squirted the 3M 4200 from the
> > cartridge into the syringes. I then used the syringe to fill the gaps. I
> > overfilled them and then used a putty knife to press in and smooth the
> > caulk
> > on the outside. Remove the tape before the caulk sets and you are done.
> >
> > I 2 complete rebeds on the ports until I realized I could get away with
> > this
> > much easier approach. The above took about an hour for the remaining ports
> > start to finish. The complete rebed took about a week due the difficulty I
> > had removing the old silicone completely from the ports. If you do rebed
> > the
> > ports I highly recommend the Bomar hatch tape!
> >
> > Hopefully this isn't too confusing, but if you have any questions, feel
> > free
> > to contact me offline...Good luck
> >
> > Jon
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
> > [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Bill Sloane
> > Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2011 11:04 AM
> > To: C320-List at catalina320.com
> > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Leaking portholes fix?
> >
> > Jon and John,
> >
> > It sounds like your solutions are very similar. I might try Rick's
> > solution
> > right now because my boats has about 6" of snow on it at the moment. Jon,
> > if
> > you are willing to supply more details, I would be grateful. Is the
> > UV4000/4200 something I can get at West Marine?
> >
> > Bill
> > C/320 No. 554
> >
> > On Sun, Feb 27, 2011 at 6:46 AM, Rick Sulewski <rsulewski at bex.net> wrote:
> >
> > > Bill,
> > >
> > > A short term solution that worked on our hull # 277 was to simply
> tighten
> > > the frame and compress the gasket. It was amazing how the leaks
> > disappeared
> > > one we tightened all of the frames that had plenty of space between the
> > > shrinking gaskets and the hull. So far that solution has lasted over 4
> > > years. The day will come when I will have to address the gaskets, but in
> > > the
> > > meantime, buying some time is working for us.
> > >
> > > Rick
> > > My-Ria # 277
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
> > > [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Jon Vez
> > > Sent: Sunday, February 27, 2011 8:38 AM
> > > To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> > > Subject: Re: [C320-list] Leaking portholes fix?
> > >
> > > Bill,
> > >
> > > I had leaking portlights the season before last and addressed it this
> > past
> > > spring. Before you remove the portlight or go after the gasket, try
> > this--
> > >
> > > Pull out the grey caulking on each of the horizontal slits in each
> > > portlight
> > > and then refill with black UV4000/4200.
> > >
> > > I have hull #582 and I started by removing the frame as I saw the
> > cracking
> > > you mention--However I found the caulk was in really good shape and
> still
> > > quite waterproof under the frames themselves. My experience is that
> > > removing
> > > and rebedding the frames and replacing the gasket was unnecessary in my
> > > case. If you can get away with just doing those grey slits you will save
> > a
> > > lot of time and aggravation. You do not have to remove the portlights to
> > do
> > > this job. If you like, I can give you more detail on how to do this job
> > if
> > > this is the approach you choose to take.....
> > >
> > > Regards,
> > >
> > > Jon Vez
> > > Solstice #582
> > >
> > > -----Original Message-----
> > > From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
> > > [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com] On Behalf Of Bill
> > Sloane
> > > Sent: Saturday, February 26, 2011 12:23 PM
> > > To: c320-list at catalina320.com
> > > Subject: [C320-list] Leaking portholes fix?
> > >
> > > After 13 wonderful dry years, my 1998 Catalina 320 is starting to leak
> at
> > > the LEWMAR operable portholes. At first I thought the leak was from the
> > > black rubber interior gasket, but then I looked at the exterior aluminum
> > > frame of the windows and noticed the gasket between the aluminum and the
> > > fiberglass of the cabin top is also cracked.
> > >
> > > Has someone had this same problem and fixed it?
> > >
> > > Bill Sloane
> > > Endless Summer
> > > Catalina 320, No. 554
> > > Olympia WA
> > >
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
> 