[C320-list] raw water intake modification

[Jeff Hare]

Here's the link to the picture on the c320 website of our winterizing engine flush port.

It's after the filter.  To winterized or just run the engine for a while:
* close the thru hull, 
* i use a 5 gal bucket with a garden hose fitting coming out the side near the bottom.  With the bucket in the cockpit and a short section of clear hose with garden hose fittings on each end, it connects the bucket to the flush port.  Clear hose is good because you can see water or antifreeze going through.

I run a water hose in to fill the bucket and adjust the flow  so it matches what the engine sucks out or adjust the engine rpm to fine tune. It's easy to run the engine for 15 or 20 min this way.

* then to winterized, shut off the water supply to the bucket, let the engine drain the bucket, then pour in a couple gallons of rv antifreeze.  Let the engine run 15 or 20 seconds after no more water comes out the exhaust to drain the muffler and you're done.

http://tinyurl.com/FlushPort

Cheers!
Jeff

On Nov 24, 2011, at 9:20 AM, Jeff Hare <catalina at thehares.com> wrote:

> Yes, I modified ours 10 years ago.  You should use either bronze or plastic. Brass will dissolve very quickly in marine environment.  Unless it says bronze and sold for marine use, it is most likely cast brass. In brackish water, a brass connector on the raw water intake side on a 320 near us developed pinholes in only 4 months.  
> 
> We have pics on the website showing our install that's convenient for winterizing and spring commissioning.  In my opinion, there's no need for any valve here.
> 
> -Jeff
> #809
> 
> On Nov 23, 2011, at 7:41 AM, wflowe3 at aim.com wrote:
> 
>> I bought a 3 way valve to splice into my raw water intake hose to ease the winterization process.  The thru-hull is so close to the prop shaft that there is not enough room for the 3/4" brass valve and associated hose barbs. Has anyone modified their intake hose/connections for this process?
>> 
>> Bill
>> #1146
>> 
>