[C320-list] easy way to winterize the raw water and conform toABYC code?

Jeff Hare catalina at thehares.com
Fri Oct 21 09:21:56 PDT 2011


Sorry, but that's a really bad idea and unnecessary since the metals in the raw water side don't require the inhibitors like the fresh water side does. Also the RV antifreeze does provide enough of a protective coating for a winter. Ask Yanmar if you doubt this or open your heat exchanger in the spring and you'll see it'll show no signs of any kind of winter corrosion. 

The raw water side should never have glycol run through it. RV antifreeze provides everything necessary to protect that after a good flushing with fresh water.

After the RV antifreeze bucket is empty, running the engine another 20 seconds after water stops coming out the exhaust guarantees the exchanger is empty but still coated and the muffler is almost entirely empty. The impeller is plenty lubricated by this.

Save yourself the time, effort, money and trouble and skip the glycol. 

-Jeff


JJ Morrison <sail-ability at sympatico.ca> wrote:


i don't like putting plumbers antifreeze into the engine as it does not have any inhibitors in it. I put propylene glycol in the engine when the boat is on the hard and catch the overflow in a bucket and dispose of it correctly. I'm also investigating draining the raw water system and leaving the heat exchanger dry during the winter. Anyone do this?CheersJohnM1999#574 
> From: cdescher at cedtulsa.com
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 09:37:14 -0500
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] easy way to winterize the raw water and conform	toABYC code?
> 
> I set the jugs on the cover over the water tank and run the hose from the
> jug to the T valve. I start the engine, so raw water is going from the lake
> through the engine. Then I switch the T valve from raw water to the jug,
> and it doesn't lose prime. If I switch quickly to the second jug it still
> doesn't lose prime. After I start the second jug, I go back to the cockpit,
> look over the back, see pink stuff coming out and shut off the engine. For
> me, it's an easy one man job. When I bought the boat, this was already
> installed. Now I'm a little concerned about what Jeff mentioned on the
> brass fitting. I try to remember to close my raw water through hull when I
> leave the boat, so maybe I shouldn't worry too much.
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com]On Behalf Of
> wflowe3 at aim.com
> Sent: Friday, October 21, 2011 9:26 AM
> To: C320-List at Catalina320.com
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] easy way to winterize the raw water and conform
> toABYC code?
> 
> 
> Chris,
> 
> Does the water pump pick up prime from the jugs in the cabin or do you have
> to elevate the jugs (to the cockpit say) and fill the hose to get the
> antifreeze started through the pump?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Chris Descher <cdescher at cedtulsa.com>
> To: C320-List <C320-List at Catalina320.com>
> Sent: Thu, Oct 20, 2011 3:44 pm
> Subject: Re: [C320-list] easy way to winterize the raw water and conform
> toABYC code?
> 
> 
> I think that I've got something like what you're describing. It's a brass T
> 
> valve installed between the through hull and the engine. In one position,
> 
> it lets raw water pass through. In the other position I can feed
> 
> antifreeze. When I want to winterize, I take a couple of gallon jugs of
> 
> antifreeze to the aft cabin. Then I put one end of a 6' section of vinyl
> 
> tube on the empty hose barb of the T valve and the other end of the hose
> 
> goes in the antifreeze jug. I start the engine, turn the T valve to the
> 
> antifreeze position, and by the time I've run two gallons of antifreeze
> 
> through, it's done. I can assemble, winterize, and disassemble in well
> 
> under five minutes. This allows me to easily use the boat throughout the
> 
> winter with minimal hassle. I don't know about ABYC code, but it works.
> 
> 
> 
> Chris Descher
> 
> #500
> 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 
> From: c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com
> 
> [mailto:c320-list-bounces at lists.catalina320.com]On Behalf Of Alan
> 
> Goodman
> 
> Sent: Thursday, October 20, 2011 3:26 PM
> 
> To: c320-list at lists.catalina320.com
> 
> Subject: [C320-list] easy way to winterwise the raw water and conform
> 
> toABYC code?
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> I recently was looking through the Forespar catalog
> 
> (http://www.forespar.com/pdf/M20-marelon-plumbing-product-chart.pdf) for
> 
> head vent parts, and while doing so a thought occurred to me. I have been
> 
> seeking a permanent way to provide easy addition of antifreeze to flush the
> 
> raw water side of the engine. I looked at adding a Prestone radiator flush
> 
> kit into the water supply hose after the raw water intake seacock, but I was
> 
> concerned about (i) inability to properly double clamp the hose as per ABYC
> 
> standards for below water line fittings, (ii) whether it was wise to trust a
> 
> screw on type cap to seal the flush kit (leaks or failure would be very bad
> 
> !!), (iii) would I pass a marine survey when I sell the boat in the future
> 
> or (iv) would I jepordize my insurance coverage in the event the
> 
> 'non-marine' part failed and flooded the boat. A standard Forespar 'Y
> 
> valve' (such as part number 902001 MF 853 found at
> 
> http://www.forespar.com/pdf/M20-marelon-plumbing-product-chart.pdf) would
> 
> provide a two source supply to the raw water system and meet all ABYC
> 
> requirements. One leg provides fresh water from the thru-hull and the other
> 
> leg of the Y valve allows the antifreeze supply line to be directly plumbed
> 
> into the raw water system. Which supply stream (either raw water or
> 
> anti-freeze) proceeds through the strainer and into the engine block is
> 
> controlled by appropriate positioning of the Y valve handle. Thoughts?
> 
> Alan Hull 67 Holland MI
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
		 	 		 




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