[C320-list] Replacement teak hatch boards

[Dean Vermeire]

One more thing...

In refinishing my hatch boards, I found that Zar #120 Teak Natural wood 
stain has a very close match to the original color of the hatch boards.  
If you look at the color of the boards on the sides facing inside the 
cabin (which has not been stained), this is what the outside of the 
boards will look like with this Zar stain applied.  It is relatively 
dark.  I have been able to buy the stain locally at an Ace Hardware store.

After staining the outward facing sides, I finished with a spar 
polyurethane.  I chose this finish mostly for the UV protection. It also 
adds a little amber to the finish.

Dean


On 10/1/2012 8:55 AM, Dean Vermeire wrote:
> I have to agree with Tony, in that the Zarcor doors are really not the 
> best for securing your boat and keeping the bad weather out while you 
> are away.  I bought the Zarcor doors for our boat (#847) to easily go 
> in and out of the boat in the summer, while keeping the cold air from 
> the air conditioner inside.  We only use the doors when we are staying 
> on the boat.  Otherwise, we put the hatch boards back in.
>
> The installation was pretty easy on my second attempt.  The 
> instructions all make perfect sense when you are done.  There are a 
> couple of little tricks that would be great to know up front. First of 
> all, clamping both doors securely to the included flat piece of 
> plastic (or, better yet, a piece of plywood or straight board) helps 
> tremendously.  Second, using thin strips of plywood or hardboard as 
> shims is a big help.  The idea is that the doors are clamped together 
> and act as one piece to install.  The shims are placed behind the 
> doors in the slot, on the outsides of the doors in the slot, and under 
> the doors.  This provides some space around the doors and pushes the 
> doors outward, so that the hinges will be properly positioned.
>
> Before drilling any holes, and after you have clamped and shimmed, 
> slide the hatchway cover closed and check the clearance with the 
> doors.  If you can't close the hatch cover, or if it rubs, you will 
> need to take a little off the bottom of the doors to lower them down.  
> I did not need to do this at all on my boat, but each boat may vary 
> slightly.  Once you have the doors (still clamped and shimmed) fitting 
> nicely, you will want to press the hinges firmly against the doors, 
> pulling the doors towards the hinges, and drill the holes.  It is very 
> important to drill and set the screws with the hinges aligned 
> properly.  Once you have the hinges set, just remove the clamps and 
> shims.  Ta da!
>
> As to the various comments about the hatch boards, I took mine home 
> with me to refinish them this weekend and have a few observations.  
> First off, the quality of the hatch boards is first rate, at least on 
> hull 847.  They are solid wood (probably teak, although possibly one 
> of the good substitutes).  The main panels are edge glued and there 
> are end pieces that are glued cross-grain with mortise and stub tenon 
> joinery, similar to breadboard ends on a dining room table.  Because 
> the joinery is cross-grain, it may fail over time.  This is not 
> because it is a bad design.  The nice, finished look is achieved by 
> the breadboard ends that hide the end grain of the main panels.  The 
> down side is that the joint may break apart over time, due to seasonal 
> movement.  If this happens, I would rebuild the existing hatch boards, 
> salvaging as much as I can.  Certainly, the main panels would be 
> salvageable. The end pieces may need to be replaced.  It depends on 
> how easily you can get them apart and clean out the old glue.
>
> If you decide to build new hatch boards, there are some alternatives 
> to teak.  Genuine teak is selling here for about $24 / bf.  However, 
> Iroko, which is a very good substitute, is selling for about 1/3 of 
> that.  Mahogany would also be nice, and African Mahogany is a good 
> substitute for that.
>
> Good luck.
>
> Dean Vermeire
> Moonstruck II (#847)
>
> On 9/28/2012 9:29 AM, Tony Murphy wrote:
>> Len,
>>
>> We have the Zocor doors (installed earlier this summer).  As we spend 
>> many
>> weekends on the boat, we absolutely love them and highly recommend 
>> them for
>> people who are going in an out of the cabin a lot and hate wrestling 
>> with
>> the hatchboards.  However, when sailing, these are removed and placed 
>> in the
>> aft cabin.
>>
>> For a day sailor, I don¹t think I could recommend them.  They aren¹t as
>> secure when away from the boat as the original hatchboards, but then 
>> again,
>> if someone wants to get in your boat, they¹ll get in.
>>
>> Installation is easy to moderate, but not quite as easy as they make 
>> it out
>> before the sale.  I had to some sanding on one of my doors at the bottom
>> with an orbit sander (about 10-15 mins).
>>
>> So, if you¹re only purchasing them to keep the rain out while you¹re 
>> away,
>> then they seem like an expensive option.
>>
>> Tony Murphy
>> Bella Sol #886
>> Leech Lake, MN
>>
>>
>>
>> On 9/27/12 11:22 AM, "Len" <aqua5len at gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Thanks - my wife and I are strictly day sailors out of MDR up the 
>>> coast for
>>> a few hours, then back to the Club, and only in fair weather - have 
>>> no need
>>> for boards IF doors keep rain out of cabin when shut.
>>>
>>> Are there other brands to consider before I buy from Zocor?
>>>
>>> Len
>>> AQUA5 #1070
>>>
>>> On Wed, Sep 26, 2012 at 9:10 PM, <JCowperthw at aol.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>>> I had .375 tinted polycarbonate sheets cut to size. They are 
>>>>> great  when
>>>>> dodger is up but switch back to factory in the winter, as they 
>>>>> allow some
>>>>> water in without it up. Reasonable privacy and allows a lot  light.
>>>>>
>>
>>
>>
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