[C320-list] C320-list Digest, Vol 1527, Issue 2
Richard A. Walsh
walshrichard at msn.com
Fri Sep 14 14:56:30 PDT 2012
We leave boat in water for the winter with bubblers. Since temperature gets down to -10 we have to make sure all lines are winterized thoroughly. Don't forget bilge pumps and whale pump. Make sure refrig as well as shower drain are done. I find it easier to remove inspection plates and use shop vacs to empty tanks, then suck out all water from the water heater, then make sure to open valve as usually another gallon is left in tank. Then I add the pink stuff and suck it through the lines. I don't take a chance on pink stuff in toilet and holding tank but use the regular antifreeze.
We need to make sure that all thru hulls are closed and back flow antifreeze to them. We prefer to change oil in the spring also. We leave the impellors in place in case of emergency but inspect them in the spring.
----- Original Message -----
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Sent: Friday, September 14, 2012 1:00 PM
Subject: C320-list Digest, Vol 1527, Issue 2
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Today's Topics:
1. Re: Winterizing in northeast (CHARLES DICKHUT)
2. Alternator Upgrade questions - Balmar 70 110A (danny jensen)
3. Bleeding fuel line (Cary Dennis Lowe)
4. Re: Bleeding fuel line (jpmesa at aol.com<mailto:jpmesa at aol.com>)
5. Re: Rebed Chainplates (Warren Updike)
6. Re: Winterizing in northeast (BAdams3491 at aol.com<mailto:BAdams3491 at aol.com>)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 13:14:10 -0400 (EDT)
From: CHARLES DICKHUT <cdickhut2 at aol.com<mailto:cdickhut2 at aol.com>>
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com<mailto:C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Winterizing in northeast
Message-ID: <8CF60B37CFF8CD1-15C4-47D94 at webmail-m048.sysops.aol.com<mailto:8CF60B37CFF8CD1-15C4-47D94 at webmail-m048.sysops.aol.com>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
I also change the oil before the boat is hauled. I don't want the old oil sitting in the engine over the winter. I also remove the water pump impeller. I replace it with a new one in the spring & use the old one as a spare. Probably overkill but it works for me.
Capt Chuck Dickhut
S/V Obsession #114
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Murphy <tony at midwestphysics.com<mailto:tony at midwestphysics.com>>
To: C320-List <C320-List at Catalina320.com<mailto:C320-List at Catalina320.com>>
Sent: Fri, Sep 14, 2012 12:56 pm
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Winterizing in northeast
I?m no mechanic, but I would think the reason to change the oil before
toring for winter would be to clear out the contaminants that have built up
ver the summer in the oil. This includes trace amounts of dirt/sludge and
larger amount (not sure how much) of acidic components resulting from the
ombustion process.
I would rather have clean oil sitting next to my cylinder heads for 6-7
onths or more rather than all that other unknown stuff which react
etrimentally with the inside of my engine. In fact, I will probably change
y oil a few days before haulout when I can run the engine up to temp
easier to remove hot oil) and then run the clean oil for a short period at
east throughout the engine. This way, everything is as clean as possible
nside (sorta).
A question for those experienced though... Do you really change out your
ngine antifreeze/coolant on an annual basis? I saw another poster elude to
his and didn?t think it was necessary.
Ditto for tranny fluid??
Tony
ella Sol #886
n 9/14/12 11:33 AM, "Gene Helfman" <genehelfman at gmail.com<mailto:genehelfman at gmail.com>> wrote:
> Although we don't face the kind of winter here in the Pacific Northwest
that you frozen easterners/mid-westerners do, we still tend to lay up for
the winter because of relative cold and very windy winters. Opinion
amongst my fellow sailors is to put off oil and tranny fluid change until
the spring, during recommissioning (why put in good oil if the engine isn't
going to be run). Also, where do folks stand on the full (and preserved)
fuel tanks vs. empty. Most folks here like to have the tank fuller to
prevent condensation, but with a preservative/algicide added.
gene
Satori, #398
On Fri, Sep 14, 2012 at 7:13 AM, <wflowe3 at aim.com<mailto:wflowe3 at aim.com>> wrote:
> >
> > I find it preferable to drain the water tanks, by-pass water heater and
> > blow/suck the waterlines dry with small shop vac rather than using any pink
> > stuff in the system.
> >
> > Top off water levels in batteries.
> >
> > Since the boat will be on the hard, leave all through hulls open to
> > gravity drain- make sure that stand/trailer pads don't obstruct a through
> > hull after the boat is pulled
> >
> > you need to run the engine with the raw water intake hose sucking from a
> > jug of antifreeze and the through hull closed. Depending on your plumbing,
> > you may have to remove the intake hose from the through hull fitting to
> > accomplish this
> >
> > Don't forget to pump pink stuff through the head.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: dprudden <dprudden at comcast.net<mailto:dprudden at comcast.net>>
> > To: C320-List <C320-List at Catalina320.com<mailto:C320-List at Catalina320.com>>
> > Sent: Fri, Sep 14, 2012 5:31 am
> > Subject: [C320-list] Winterizing in northeast
> >
> >
> >
> > So, I got to sail the new (to me) boat for a month, but it's time to think
> > about
> > winter. She is scheduled to be hauled in 3 weeks and I don't want to screw
> > up
> > winterizing. Frtom searching the list, here's what I have found for the
> > general
> > idea of what I need to do. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE tell me what I'm missing
> > and/or
> > pass on your winterizing lists (I couldn't find an actual list that exists
> > anymore on the list).
> >
> > Engine-change oil (pump out thru dipstick), change coolant, tranny fluid.
> > Pump
> > "pink stuff" through raw water/muffler. I've done outboards many times, but
> > never an inboard/diesel.
> >
> > Drain water tanks. Pour pink stuff down all drains, including head shower.
> > Either bypass waterheater to save on pink stuff or plan on using 6+
> > gallons (can
> > be reused/recycled in spring). Never done this before.
> >
> > Make sure batteries are charged.
> >
> > Cover baby and put to bed for winter.
> >
> > What am I missing?
> >
> > The wife wants me to pay someone this year to make sure its done right,
> > but I
> > doubt I'd find someone. Anyone in Mass/RI want to make a few hundred bucks?
> >
> > Thanks for the help.
> >
> > David Prudden
> > Teachers Pet II (#787)
> >
> >
> >
------------------------------
Message: 2
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 10:15:56 -0700
From: "danny jensen" <danny at jensenshouse.com<mailto:danny at jensenshouse.com>>
To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com<mailto:C320-List at Catalina320.com>>
Subject: [C320-list] Alternator Upgrade questions - Balmar 70 110A
Message-ID:
<4172B790D8D8E44AB4780580DC606D3E4202B2 at jensen.jensenshome.com<mailto:4172B790D8D8E44AB4780580DC606D3E4202B2 at jensen.jensenshome.com>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
All,
Thanks for all the info on the c320 site re the alternator topic. My
questions follow. Please answer anything you can. Thanks in advance.
Boat details
C320 hull 972 2004
Yanmar 3GM30F-YEU
xantrex true charge 40
Flooded Lead Acid 4D x 2 1 yr old
Project:
I have decided add a starter battery per C320 site instructions (create
house and starter bank) and then work my way aft to upgrade the
alternator. 2 phase project.
Alternator:
I'd like to go with the Balmar 110A alternator with the ARS-5-h voltage
regulator purchased in kit part number 70-YP-110-KIT
Balmar Alternator Kits Contain:
Alternator 70 series
Matching ARS-5-H voltage regulator
54" Wire harness
MC-TS-A Alternator temperature sensor
MC-TS-B Battery temperature sensor
I found this kit for $700.00 at East Coast battery and electric.
http://www.eastcoastbattery.com/alternators.htm<http://www.eastcoastbattery.com/alternators.htm>
Other Stuff:
Blue Seas ACR #7610 between house and starter
Xantrex linkLite with shunt
Group 24 60ah or Group 27 92ah (not sure) will get from Sams Club?
Xantrex truecharge 40 with 2 outputs connected to house and starter
batteries
Questions:
1. What is the best location to place the voltage regulator? The kit
above only has a 54" harness. Looks like Jeff mounted the regulator next
to the nav station. Other people mounted in engine area next to coolant
res. How hard is it to extend the balmar 54" harness?
2. what size thickness and type of wood do you use for your electrical
backboards? How do you secure them to the hull? Type of screws used to
mount components/backboards?
3. Was the balmar 110A a drop in replacement with no shimming? Do you
have a belt part number I can use? Do you chew up belts?
4. Best place to buy bus bars/fuses/connectors, battery strap etc, do
you have Part numbers?
5. Do you have any details you can give me on interfacing the old
alternator / boat wiring to the balmar harness (ground, power input,
ignition, tack out)? Do we need to interface the tack wire from the
Balmar reg to the boat? Is the tack output somewhat accurate? Cable path
to dash lamp on Edison to flag charger malfunction
6. Location of existing negative bus bar on hull 972? Do I have one?
Where should I locate the fuse protection for this neg bus bar?
7. Is it absolutely necessary to run alternator directly to house
batteries? Or can I just leave it running to the switch?
8. Any custom configuration needed programming the Balmar Reg?
9. Other stuff I'm forgetting not covered on C320.
------------------------------
Message: 3
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 10:16:19 -0700
From: Cary Dennis Lowe <cdlowe1769 at sbcglobal.net<mailto:cdlowe1769 at sbcglobal.net>>
To: "C320-List at Catalina320.com<mailto:C320-List at Catalina320.com>" <C320-List at Catalina320.com<mailto:C320-List at Catalina320.com>>
Subject: [C320-list] Bleeding fuel line
Message-ID: <E5EC0382-8212-468B-9C49-1AF8023D7AFD at sbcglobal.net<mailto:E5EC0382-8212-468B-9C49-1AF8023D7AFD at sbcglobal.net>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii
Hi Guys
I just changed the fuel filters on my Yanmar. I thought that I had all the air out of the lines. However, when I took the boat out she ran fine for 5 minutes then the RPMs ran up then down and the engine died. I pumped the water separator filter until I had pressure and she started back up and ran for another 5 minutes. Any ideas what I did wrong?
Thanks
Dennis
Grace Kellie #917
Sent from my iPad
------------------------------
Message: 4
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 13:31:47 -0400 (EDT)
From: jpmesa at aol.com<mailto:jpmesa at aol.com>
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com<mailto:C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Bleeding fuel line
Message-ID: <8CF60B5F3064238-1D58-64217 at Webmail-m124.sysops.aol.com<mailto:8CF60B5F3064238-1D58-64217 at Webmail-m124.sysops.aol.com>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
I find that if I open the the bleed screw on the secondary (engine) fuel filter and turn the engine over a few seconds (till you get only fuel (no glow plug). Sometime you need to do this a few times but never longer than a few seconds. A baggy around the filter will keep from making a mess. If there is air around the first filter it could take about 10 minutes to work its way to the engine. I even run my engine in the slip with a load ( in gear). I have Perkins but most engine bleed the same. JOHN
-----Original Message-----
From: Cary Dennis Lowe <cdlowe1769 at sbcglobal.net<mailto:cdlowe1769 at sbcglobal.net>>
To: C320-List <C320-List at Catalina320.com<mailto:C320-List at Catalina320.com>>
Sent: Fri, Sep 14, 2012 10:16 am
Subject: [C320-list] Bleeding fuel line
Hi Guys
I just changed the fuel filters on my Yanmar. I thought that I had all the air
out of the lines. However, when I took the boat out she ran fine for 5 minutes
then the RPMs ran up then down and the engine died. I pumped the water
separator filter until I had pressure and she started back up and ran for
another 5 minutes. Any ideas what I did wrong?
Thanks
Dennis
Grace Kellie #917
Sent from my iPad
------------------------------
Message: 5
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 13:34:29 -0400
From: Warren Updike <wupdike at hotmail.com<mailto:wupdike at hotmail.com>>
To: <C320-List at Catalina320.com<mailto:C320-List at Catalina320.com>>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Rebed Chainplates
Message-ID: <BAY156-ds1866CD2C443D9DF2F4E11EBE900 at phx.gbl<mailto:BAY156-ds1866CD2C443D9DF2F4E11EBE900 at phx.gbl>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
Irv, if you are seeing water around the base of the chain plates in the
cabin, or dark stains on the ss or cabin liner, it's likely time to rebed.
Remove the deck plate and inside ss rod, and push out the chain plate and
bedding material. You may need to exercise the chain plate to free it from
the bedding. Be sure to check the opening once clean to be sure it is solid
resin and no exposed deck core. I suspect that on #851 Catalina got around
to making the deck solid where all the rigging is attached. If you have an
opening between the deck and inner lining, give me a call, we can talk about
it 410-821-8246.
BTW, I did it myself. Definitely a DIY, especially if retired. Expensive
to have it done right.
Warren & Pattie Updike
1994 C320 #62 "Warr De Mar"
-----Original Message-----
From: Irving Grunes [mailto:igrunes at gmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 13, 2012 9:15 PM
To: C320-List at catalina320.com<mailto:C320-List at catalina320.com>
Subject: [C320-list] Rebed Chainplates
Hi
Interested in what people have done with rebedding their chainplates.
#851 is 10 years old and we have never done anything with them.
Who has had them rebedded?
What was the incident that caused you to do the rebedding?
Did you do it yourself or have a yard do it?
What material was used in the rebedding.
if a yard did it, how much did it cost?
Is this a DIY project?
Irv Grunes
2001 #851
------------------------------
Message: 6
Date: Fri, 14 Sep 2012 13:47:52 -0400 (EDT)
From: BAdams3491 at aol.com<mailto:BAdams3491 at aol.com>
To: C320-List at Catalina320.com<mailto:C320-List at Catalina320.com>
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Winterizing in northeast
Message-ID: <59403.5e2d4b21.3d84c7c8 at aol.com<mailto:59403.5e2d4b21.3d84c7c8 at aol.com>>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"
By all means, change the oil in the fall so clean oil sits in the engine
all winter. That's what Nigel Calder recommends in his book Boatowner's
Mechanical and Electrical Manual.
Bert
At Ease
#442
In a message dated 9/14/2012 12:14:36 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
cdickhut2 at aol.com<mailto:cdickhut2 at aol.com> writes:
I also change the oil before the boat is hauled. I don't want the old oil
sitting in the engine over the winter. I also remove the water pump
impeller. I replace it with a new one in the spring & use the old one as a spare.
Probably overkill but it works for me.
.. Chuck Dickhut
S/V Obsession #114
-----Original Message-----
From: Tony Murphy <tony at midwestphysics.com<mailto:tony at midwestphysics.com>>
To: C320-List <C320-List at Catalina320.com<mailto:C320-List at Catalina320.com>>
Sent: Fri, Sep 14, 2012 12:56 pm
Subject: Re: [C320-list] Winterizing in northeast
I?m no mechanic, but I would think the reason to change the oil before
toring for winter would be to clear out the contaminants that have built up
ver the summer in the oil. This includes trace amounts of dirt/sludge and
larger amount (not sure how much) of acidic components resulting from the
ombustion process.
I would rather have clean oil sitting next to my cylinder heads for 6-7
onths or more rather than all that other unknown stuff which react
etrimentally with the inside of my engine. In fact, I will probably change
y oil a few days before haulout when I can run the engine up to temp
easier to remove hot oil) and then run the clean oil for a short period at
east throughout the engine. This way, everything is as clean as possible
nside (sorta).
A question for those experienced though... Do you really change out your
ngine antifreeze/coolant on an annual basis? I saw another poster elude to
his and didn?t think it was necessary.
Ditto for tranny fluid??
Tony
ella Sol #886
n 9/14/12 11:33 AM, "Gene Helfman" <genehelfman at gmail.com<mailto:genehelfman at gmail.com>> wrote:
> Although we don't face the kind of winter here in the Pacific Northwest
that you frozen easterners/mid-westerners do, we still tend to lay up for
the winter because of relative cold and very windy winters. Opinion
amongst my fellow sailors is to put off oil and tranny fluid change until
the spring, during recommissioning (why put in good oil if the engine isn't
going to be run). Also, where do folks stand on the full (and preserved)
fuel tanks vs. empty. Most folks here like to have the tank fuller to
prevent condensation, but with a preservative/algicide added.
gene
Satori, #398
On Fri, Sep 14, 2012 at 7:13 AM, <wflowe3 at aim.com<mailto:wflowe3 at aim.com>> wrote:
> >
> > I find it preferable to drain the water tanks, by-pass water heater
and
> > blow/suck the waterlines dry with small shop vac rather than using any
pink
> > stuff in the system.
> >
> > Top off water levels in batteries.
> >
> > Since the boat will be on the hard, leave all through hulls open to
> > gravity drain- make sure that stand/trailer pads don't obstruct a
through
> > hull after the boat is pulled
> >
> > you need to run the engine with the raw water intake hose sucking from
a
> > jug of antifreeze and the through hull closed. Depending on your
plumbing,
> > you may have to remove the intake hose from the through hull fitting to
> > accomplish this
> >
> > Don't forget to pump pink stuff through the head.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: dprudden <dprudden at comcast.net<mailto:dprudden at comcast.net>>
> > To: C320-List <C320-List at Catalina320.com<mailto:C320-List at Catalina320.com>>
> > Sent: Fri, Sep 14, 2012 5:31 am
> > Subject: [C320-list] Winterizing in northeast
> >
> >
> >
> > So, I got to sail the new (to me) boat for a month, but it's time to
think
> > about
> > winter. She is scheduled to be hauled in 3 weeks and I don't want to
screw
> > up
> > winterizing. Frtom searching the list, here's what I have found for the
> > general
> > idea of what I need to do. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE tell me what I'm
missing
> > and/or
> > pass on your winterizing lists (I couldn't find an actual list that
exists
> > anymore on the list).
> >
> > Engine-change oil (pump out thru dipstick), change coolant, tranny
fluid.
> > Pump
> > "pink stuff" through raw water/muffler. I've done outboards many
times, but
> > never an inboard/diesel.
> >
> > Drain water tanks. Pour pink stuff down all drains, including head
shower.
> > Either bypass waterheater to save on pink stuff or plan on using 6+
> > gallons (can
> > be reused/recycled in spring). Never done this before.
> >
> > Make sure batteries are charged.
> >
> > Cover baby and put to bed for winter.
> >
> > What am I missing?
> >
> > The wife wants me to pay someone this year to make sure its done right,
> > but I
> > doubt I'd find someone. Anyone in Mass/RI want to make a few hundred
bucks?
> >
> > Thanks for the help.
> >
> > David Prudden
> > Teachers Pet II (#787)
> >
> >
> >
End of C320-list Digest, Vol 1527, Issue 2
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