[C320-list] Wiring Speed Transducer

[Dean Vermeire]

I just did this very same thing last year.  I ended up cutting the cable 
and splicing the new one in with butt splices and heat shrink.  I made 
this connection under the port settee, keeping it high and dry.  Be sure 
to leave a fair amount of slack, so that you could always do it again, 
if need be. You could always do the splice inside a box.

Since the cable is molded into the transducer and runs the length of the 
boat and up through the pedestal, and it is held in tightly with wire 
ties and sealant, this was about the only reasonable solution I could 
come up with.

Good luck!

Dean Vermeire
Moonstruck II (#847)

On 9/5/2012 3:18 PM, BairdRJB at aol.com wrote:
> You may recall a post from me a few weeks ago inquiring about replacing the
>   paddlewheel on a Raymarine ST60 Speed Instrument.  I ended up working with
>   a company called GEMECO.  Very helpful folks.  By their  recommendation, I
> am replacing the entire insert/transducer.  Not only was  the paddle wheel
> broken, but the brackets that protect the paddlewheel was  cracked and could
> snap off sometime in the near future.  They are shipping  me an ST800-INS
> at the cost of $84 (before shipping).
>   
> QUESTION:  To install this thing, they say I don't have to run the  cable
> all the way back to the helm.  They say I can cut the cable and  connect it
> to the original cable using a junction box.  I have never done  that kind of
> work before.  Is he talking about a butt splice or a terminal  block, or
> what?  Obviously it needs to be waterproof.  I am assuming  that making this
> kind of splice might compromise the speed-reading a bit, but I  imagine it
> would be only marginal.  Am I correct in that assumption?
>   
> Thanks, all, for your guidance.
>   
> Bob Baird
> Star Dust, 2001, Hull 784
> Whitehall, Michigan
>
>
>